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I just tried it with the Summicron-R 90mm. It works better at f/2 with this lens, modulo the 'too heavy' peaking indication lines that obliterate everything. The sensitivity is just too high at smaller apertures ... too much is considered "in focus" ... and the thickness of the peaking indication is so heavy that you can barely see the subject through the peaking lines. The fact that it only works in full view and not in magnified view makes it doubly useless... and of course in magnified view, you can turn it off and see the focus point critically and precisely.
Looks nice! If focusing seems stiff the lubrication has probably dried out - may be time for a CLA...Just received a used CF 100/3.5 Planar and since it was already dark outside my first test shot was a houseplant. Mounted the lens in the XV adapter and XH tripod ring adapter on my tripod. Shot was 25 sec at f/11 ISO 100 with the 907x/50CII. I'll see how it does in daylight later this week. Focusing was a little stiff, but otherwise lens looks good.
The usual explanation I've gotten in conversation camera tech design folks is that many users expect "Manual" exposure mode to be explicit: set ISO, set aperture, set exposure time, nothing else. Set aperture, set exposure time, and let ISO vary is not really Manual mode to many users ... it's what Pentax dubbed "Time/Aperture Priority" or TA mode when the added it into the K10D model about a decade or so ago: lock time and aperture, let sensitivity vary. Many manufacturers have since incorporated it as a feature of Manual mode with AutoISO, that's all, but it's not a universally supported feature by all manufacturers.
AutoISO in exposure automation modes seems a fairly straightforward addition since AE modes have the implicit notion that the camera is taking control and varying at least one of the three mechanisms of exposure. Adding AutoISO to Manual mode makes it, semantically and functionally, not actually Manual operation: you're giving the camera leave to adjust at least one exposure parameter by itself. AutoISO behavior isn't always entirely easy to figure out either, which is why some (many) cameras have user controls for how the AutoISO function operates. It's a big stretch to consider it as essential to Manual operation.
I'm not entirely sure I disagree with Hasselblad: When I switch my camera to Manual exposure mode, I expect it to do exactly and ONLY what I set explicitly. It took me a while to get my ideas around the addition of AutoISO to Manual mode when I first encountered it, and I still find I don't use it all that often as it can be confusing and has some limitations that can sneak up on you, IMO. It's kind of like adding EV Compensation to Manual mode ... why use that instead of just setting the exposure value that you need in the first place?
G
I use it with my SWA, I only have a 47mm lens on that platform but let me know if you have any questions
Various cameras I use/have used support the same notion of adjusting the AutoISO range. I don't find it actually solves much—it's still very easy to hit the range limits inadvertently and mess up the exposure. In general, I'd rather hold ISO stable in manual exposure mode to obtain a more consistent grain structure and dynamic range from shot to shot. At most letting ISO float seems to be useful in about a two to three stop range, which means making a pretty decent guess at the right aperture/shutter time setting most of the time, for each exposure. it works best in fairly consistent lighting situations, in other words.
I don't understand what problem the Novoflex Mini Connect is solving. Fitted with a Peak Design plate or the DAL-1 L-bracket, nothing touches the back and the whole camera is lower, tighter to the head, and it should net more stability that way. Sitting the camera up on a necked pedestal seems odd to me. Can you clarify what it is that this setup achieves over the standard PD head and plate setup? thx!
Just trying things out. I do use the Mini Connect a lot in studio for product photography and I have one other Novoflex head.
Hi Godfrey, I found that my DAL-1 L-bracket and the Peak design plate work well until you want to remove the back from the 907x body. I do this a lot since I use the back on my Alpa or on my 503cw. if you are not careful you can bend the bottom support on the 907x.
Hmm. I don't see the problem ... I took some photos with a PD plate and the DAL-1, using the PD Travel Tripod as example. There's plenty of clearance and plenty of space to swing the back the 6mm needed to clear the locking hasps.
thanks Mr. Glenn!
