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has anyone tried the Hasselblad CFV II 50c with tech camera?
- Thread starter DavidJA
- Start date
FloatingLens
Well-known member
What is it on the picture then, if I may ask?
P. Chong
Well-known member
You mean on the 907X? Its the HB plate, kept there to prevent scratching the bottom...
, kinda silly I guess. And allowing the body to sit on its own.
, kinda silly I guess. And allowing the body to sit on its own.
Godfrey
Well-known member
I leave the Peak Design standard plate on my 907x all the time now too. For similar reason ... it helps the body stand on its own. It also means I can plop the camera onto any of my tripods very quickly without having to spend time to fish out a plate and allen key wrench every time. I take it off when I fit the L-bracket.
I'll see if it fits easily with the control grip too... that should be here on Wednesday.
I'll see if it fits easily with the control grip too... that should be here on Wednesday.
FloatingLens
Well-known member
Using the Hasselblad quick plate system has a certain charm to it, too.You mean on the 907X? Its the HB plate, kept there to prevent scratching the bottom...
View attachment 176451
I was wondering for some time if the official plate for the X-system and X1D is equally intended for the 907X. It seems this could work well. Cheers!
Godfrey
Well-known member
The problem is that the 907x body's mounting point is wide but very narrow fore-aft. The plate for the X1D and II bodies is much longer in this dimension ... If that plate is not solid metal and has any compressible material on it, it could cause a problem in positioning of the camera as the camera will not be flat to the plate—never mind problems with the back being impinged upon.
The PD plate I'm using has a very thin bit of rubber in a couple of scalloped insets which compresses complete to the metal parts in contact with the camera base, as does a Benro plate I've also used. The DAL L-bracket has no rubber at all. Effectively, all three of these contact the camera base, do not touch the back at all (1.5mm clearance) and hold the camera rigidly without chance of rotation or 'tipping' assuming that I've torqued the screw to about 4Nm.
G
The PD plate I'm using has a very thin bit of rubber in a couple of scalloped insets which compresses complete to the metal parts in contact with the camera base, as does a Benro plate I've also used. The DAL L-bracket has no rubber at all. Effectively, all three of these contact the camera base, do not touch the back at all (1.5mm clearance) and hold the camera rigidly without chance of rotation or 'tipping' assuming that I've torqued the screw to about 4Nm.
G
darr
Well-known member
I use the CFV II 50c in the studio with a Linhof or a Sinar and Profoto Air.
Simple connection with a 2.5mm to male flash PC sync cable.
Here is a quick test shot:
Never used the CFV II 50c, but took a quick look at the online manual - when you use the DB on a tech cam you have to use the flash sync cable on the 'flash sync input' socket so that the DB knows when the mechanical shutter has fired - but the DB also has a 'flash sync output' socket, so it looks like this is how you would connect your flash setup to be triggered when the DB receives a signal from the mechanical shutter.
jotloob
Subscriber Member
I use the 907x CFV II 50c in native mode with XCD45p and xcd30 , but also on HB 500 series cameras and SWC905 .
But mainly on ALPA TC and ALPA12 plus , as well as with ARCA SWISS F-LINE METRIC 6x9 . Here for macro and product shots .
For example with the RODENSTOCK APO MACRO SIRONAR 120 mm in Prontor Professional shutter . That makes shooting much easier .
The CFV II 50c is therefore an absolute allround back , for me , and the 50MP is fully adequate for what I shoot .
But mainly on ALPA TC and ALPA12 plus , as well as with ARCA SWISS F-LINE METRIC 6x9 . Here for macro and product shots .
For example with the RODENSTOCK APO MACRO SIRONAR 120 mm in Prontor Professional shutter . That makes shooting much easier .
The CFV II 50c is therefore an absolute allround back , for me , and the 50MP is fully adequate for what I shoot .
TechTalk
Well-known member
If the lens has a leaf shutter with a flash sync connection, like a copal shutter for instance, then you use the back in flash sync mode — Camera Body Menu » "Any (Flash Sync)". There are flash sync input and output cables included with the CFV II 50C as with previous Hasselblad digital backs. These connect to the flash sync input and output ports located on the underside of the back near the LCD panel buttons.
You can download the manual from the download section of Hasselblad's website... https://www.hasselblad.com/my-hasselblad/downloads/CFV II 50C
You can download the manual from the download section of Hasselblad's website... https://www.hasselblad.com/my-hasselblad/downloads/CFV II 50C
TechTalk
Well-known member
I'm aware of the Prontor Professional shutters, but have never used one. I'd be interested in your insights as a user.
John_McMaster
Active member
Prontor Professional was my preferred shutter in sheet film days, less chance of movement with multiple exposures.....
john
john
KC_2020
Active member
This seems like a good place to ask a related question.
The Hasselblad flash sync cables that came with my 907X CFV II have 3 conductors on the mini-plug end, 2.5mm I believe. With an audio cable this is referred to as tip, ring and sleeve. So where can I purchase a backup set of these ? Or do conventional sync cables with work ?
I've searched all the typical vendors sites and haven't found an identical cable.
The Hasselblad flash sync cables that came with my 907X CFV II have 3 conductors on the mini-plug end, 2.5mm I believe. With an audio cable this is referred to as tip, ring and sleeve. So where can I purchase a backup set of these ? Or do conventional sync cables with work ?
I've searched all the typical vendors sites and haven't found an identical cable.
jotloob
Subscriber Member
You could contact HASSELBLAD directly . They were very helpful , when I had to get a replacement for the sync cable , which I lost .
mristuccia
Well-known member
As a side note, and sorry for being OT here, I noticed that they seem to have dropped the alert note on possible image quality problems for the SWC family.
This is what I have for my CFV I 50c:
This is what I have for my CFV I 50c:
I noticed as well the omission of the SWC from the "not ideal" list. My first digital back was an IQ160 in V mount. Image quality indeed suffered at the edges of the 40 x 54mm sensor compared to on-center, presumably caused by the longer path traveled by light through the glass covering the sensor at the more extreme angles toward the periphery. Stopping down to f/16 helped but I was never satisfied when shooting at larger apertures. That said, I think some folks here continue to use this full frame back without issue on the SWC. Perhaps the smaller cropped 33 x 44mm sensor renders the astigmatism less of an issue, although I don't know how well the symmetric Biogon design plays with the CFV's CCD and CMOS sensors compared to the IQ's Dalsa CCD sensor.
I might be tempted by an CFV-100C back - should it ever materialize - to try again with the SWC, but for me the more limited field of view projected on the cropped sensor negates the allure of that fabulous 38mm Biogon on the original 6 x 6 film format.
John