Guy Mancuso
Administrator, Instructor
Certainly tempting but the bank took all its money out. Lol
The GetDPI Photography Forum
Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!
HCam Master TS 11-24mm
- Thread starter Stefan Steib
- Start date
Stefan Steib
Active member
Hi Enda
there is a bit of field curvature on the outer areas of the image circle of 35mm and 50mm ART. But if you focus to something in the shifted corners it´s tack sharp.
But As I said - it depends on the image if this is usable.
There are so many effects to try and master with all these movements, all the lenses react different and it takes some time to understand all this.
A whole new world on a 24x36 FF camera, actually this is the world of viewcameras and the neverending "Glass Story".....
Regards
Stefan
there is a bit of field curvature on the outer areas of the image circle of 35mm and 50mm ART. But if you focus to something in the shifted corners it´s tack sharp.
But As I said - it depends on the image if this is usable.
There are so many effects to try and master with all these movements, all the lenses react different and it takes some time to understand all this.
A whole new world on a 24x36 FF camera, actually this is the world of viewcameras and the neverending "Glass Story".....
Regards
Stefan
Enda,
What I've seen from art lenses on IQ250 was not good in the corner...
If you want to shift on a FF24x36... Ts lenses, medium format lenses or FF zoom lenses is the way to go ( zoom is really cool for stitching with hcam).
But if you already have art serie then art serie +hcam+Sony a6000(apsc) allow you to stay in the sweet spot of the lens() with 60/70mpx output...cool, isn't it? But no rise/fall in addition...
What I've seen from art lenses on IQ250 was not good in the corner...
If you want to shift on a FF24x36... Ts lenses, medium format lenses or FF zoom lenses is the way to go ( zoom is really cool for stitching with hcam).
But if you already have art serie then art serie +hcam+Sony a6000(apsc) allow you to stay in the sweet spot of the lens() with 60/70mpx output...cool, isn't it? But no rise/fall in addition...
Stefan Steib
Active member
I am right now working on a test of these 4 lenses for german "digit!" magazine.
Overall - impressing ! Especially the make and finish is really good. The new 24mm is also really sharp for that focal length. We also have shot them on the new Canon 5Dsr, they hold up nicely.........
Still writing.
Overall - impressing ! Especially the make and finish is really good. The new 24mm is also really sharp for that focal length. We also have shot them on the new Canon 5Dsr, they hold up nicely.........
Still writing.
Enda Cavanagh
Member
Thanks guys. I'm also intrigued to see how the new Batis lenses will perform. I am considering the Pentax 45-85mm. You suggested it earlier in your post. Stefan have you any first hand experience using it on the mirex. I have been holding out for Canon replacements of the 45 and 90mm lenses but that could be 2 for one and everything in between!!
Stefan Steib
Active member
Here is a sample of the Sigma ART 1,4/35mm shifted about 12mm diagonal
(I was a bit off center) with the HCam Master TS V2.
The image is a bit cropped and I have straigtened it in Photoshop as it is very difficult sometimes to hit perfect angles when you want to go straight.
But otherwise that´s what you get. The tower is a bit unsharp on top but that was close to the imagecircle´s border.
(I was a bit off center) with the HCam Master TS V2.
The image is a bit cropped and I have straigtened it in Photoshop as it is very difficult sometimes to hit perfect angles when you want to go straight.
But otherwise that´s what you get. The tower is a bit unsharp on top but that was close to the imagecircle´s border.
Last edited:
Hi Stefan, cool work with your new HCam!
I also put my Sigma 35 an 50 Art lenses onto the FPS to see the image circles.
Please check yourself the links to the full resolution files.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18437364/pictures/IQ180+Sigma35f1.4@f11+guides.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18437364/pictures/IQ180+Sigma50f1.4@f11+guides.jpg
My findings at f11:
50 Art: large total image circle, sharp image circle would allow about 6mm shift on short axis of 24x36mm sensor and about 4mm on long axis.
35 Art: smaller total image circle and smaller sharp image circle allowing only about 4mm shift on short axis and about 2.5mm on long axis.
IMO MF lenses with their larger sharp image circles like HB 50f4 FLE and Contax 645 35 are more useful in that focal range allowing full 15mm shifts on 24x36mm sensors.
Christoph
I also put my Sigma 35 an 50 Art lenses onto the FPS to see the image circles.
Please check yourself the links to the full resolution files.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18437364/pictures/IQ180+Sigma35f1.4@f11+guides.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/18437364/pictures/IQ180+Sigma50f1.4@f11+guides.jpg
My findings at f11:
50 Art: large total image circle, sharp image circle would allow about 6mm shift on short axis of 24x36mm sensor and about 4mm on long axis.
35 Art: smaller total image circle and smaller sharp image circle allowing only about 4mm shift on short axis and about 2.5mm on long axis.
IMO MF lenses with their larger sharp image circles like HB 50f4 FLE and Contax 645 35 are more useful in that focal range allowing full 15mm shifts on 24x36mm sensors.
Christoph
Chris Barrett
Member
Chris, do you have any experience with the Contax 645 glass? I'd love to use that stuff for tilt/shift but the aperture control is electronic isn't it?
I'm on a major hunt for the best 35mm and am considering either the Contax 35mm PC Distagon or the Pentax smc FA 645 35mm f/3.5.
CB
I'm on a major hunt for the best 35mm and am considering either the Contax 35mm PC Distagon or the Pentax smc FA 645 35mm f/3.5.
CB
Stefan Steib
Active member
Ladies and Gentlemen
@David - do you want to know how to get a full range TS Zoom beast from about 20-35mm ? Take your "disappointing" Canon 16-35mm, set the zoom to 35mm. Now go with two fingers inside the back of the lens. And then Pull !
There is only a small piece of plastic as a cover which will come out easily, just clipped in (don´t loose it ! ).
I just came home with the newest version of the V2 adapter and mounted this 16-35mm with the cover removed and now we have about the same result as with the 11-24mm.
at 16mm there is only very few usable movement. but from 20 onward we now have PLENTY ! especially 24/28 and 35mm are a joy to use.
I will do some test images tomorrow.
It was an exciting day.
Greetings from Germany
Stefan
@David - do you want to know how to get a full range TS Zoom beast from about 20-35mm ? Take your "disappointing" Canon 16-35mm, set the zoom to 35mm. Now go with two fingers inside the back of the lens. And then Pull !
There is only a small piece of plastic as a cover which will come out easily, just clipped in (don´t loose it ! ).
I just came home with the newest version of the V2 adapter and mounted this 16-35mm with the cover removed and now we have about the same result as with the 11-24mm.
at 16mm there is only very few usable movement. but from 20 onward we now have PLENTY ! especially 24/28 and 35mm are a joy to use.
I will do some test images tomorrow.
It was an exciting day.
Greetings from Germany
Stefan
Last edited:
wallpaperviking
Member
Am really looking forward to having a mini-techcam!
I will be putting in an order once they are finished...
One part of that process is having a "normal" lens that has some movements.. Most of my portraits taken with my 4x5 was with a 150mm..
So the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art is looking very good indeed
Would be looking to use it close to wide open, so I think the useable image circle will be somewhat smaller but probably not by much...
The other thing to remember and as "chrismuc" examples show, is that there is a big difference between "image circle" and "useable image circle"..
While Stefan states that the
"Sigma ART 1,4/50mm landscape vertical shift 15mm /f11 no vignetting"
this is really not the case of sharp "useable image circle". As Chrismuc shows with the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art, it is really more like "sharp image circle would allow about 6mm shift on short axis of 24x36mm sensor and about 4mm on long axis."
So am wondering what other fast "standard" lens (40mm-55mm) could be a contender?
I have a friends Leica R 50mm f2 that I will be able to test out when I receive the Hcam adapter..
Stefan, do you have the Leica R 50mm 1.4 to test by any chance?
What about the Zeiss 50mm 1.4?
Any others that people can think of?
All medium format lenses at this focal length are essentially pretty slow right?
I will be putting in an order once they are finished...
One part of that process is having a "normal" lens that has some movements.. Most of my portraits taken with my 4x5 was with a 150mm..
So the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art is looking very good indeed
Would be looking to use it close to wide open, so I think the useable image circle will be somewhat smaller but probably not by much...
The other thing to remember and as "chrismuc" examples show, is that there is a big difference between "image circle" and "useable image circle"..
While Stefan states that the
"Sigma ART 1,4/50mm landscape vertical shift 15mm /f11 no vignetting"
this is really not the case of sharp "useable image circle". As Chrismuc shows with the Sigma 50mm 1.4 Art, it is really more like "sharp image circle would allow about 6mm shift on short axis of 24x36mm sensor and about 4mm on long axis."
So am wondering what other fast "standard" lens (40mm-55mm) could be a contender?
I have a friends Leica R 50mm f2 that I will be able to test out when I receive the Hcam adapter..
Stefan, do you have the Leica R 50mm 1.4 to test by any chance?
What about the Zeiss 50mm 1.4?
Any others that people can think of?
All medium format lenses at this focal length are essentially pretty slow right?
Stefan Steib
Active member
Chris writes "sharp", I said the "whole image circle".
Doing architecture like in the sample I showed, includes sky very often and the corners may be neglected as the contain either sky or some trees or just not important parts of other buildings.
And also: I wrote you can focus the "unsharp areas" nearly perfectly, but because there is a field curvature (astigmatism) nearing the borders it may or may not work to use it.
This is no different than with large format lenses we used the last 150 years on viewcameras. It´s up to the photographer to creatively use these effects and build images that hold up.
About the Leica glass: I once had some Leica R lenses and also tested some:
my Impression is that with the exception of the wideangles, the lenses from 50mm and up were always built like little MF lenses with shorter Flange focal distance, having plenty of excess image circle to be able to use the center sharpness sweetspot.
My favourite fun lenses i use on the HCam Master TS are
1,2 55mm (an old Vivitar sold in Germany as Revuenon) dream bokeh - tilted it´s even better
1,2 85mm Canon FD-L (with Ed Mika mount to EF) THE Portrait monster tilted !
2,0 100mm Canon FD
2,0 135mm Canon FD
1,4 35mm Samyang
2,0 28mm Canon FD
and of course the 2,8/ 14-24mm Nikkor at open aperture tilted at 14mm
Same fun 11mm full tilted with the Canon 11-24mm EF-L
The possibilities are endless. And 10 degrees of tilt are already "A LOT" !
Greetings from Germany
Stefan
Doing architecture like in the sample I showed, includes sky very often and the corners may be neglected as the contain either sky or some trees or just not important parts of other buildings.
And also: I wrote you can focus the "unsharp areas" nearly perfectly, but because there is a field curvature (astigmatism) nearing the borders it may or may not work to use it.
This is no different than with large format lenses we used the last 150 years on viewcameras. It´s up to the photographer to creatively use these effects and build images that hold up.
About the Leica glass: I once had some Leica R lenses and also tested some:
my Impression is that with the exception of the wideangles, the lenses from 50mm and up were always built like little MF lenses with shorter Flange focal distance, having plenty of excess image circle to be able to use the center sharpness sweetspot.
My favourite fun lenses i use on the HCam Master TS are
1,2 55mm (an old Vivitar sold in Germany as Revuenon) dream bokeh - tilted it´s even better
1,2 85mm Canon FD-L (with Ed Mika mount to EF) THE Portrait monster tilted !
2,0 100mm Canon FD
2,0 135mm Canon FD
1,4 35mm Samyang
2,0 28mm Canon FD
and of course the 2,8/ 14-24mm Nikkor at open aperture tilted at 14mm
Same fun 11mm full tilted with the Canon 11-24mm EF-L
The possibilities are endless. And 10 degrees of tilt are already "A LOT" !
Greetings from Germany
Stefan
Stefan, thank you SO much for this tips!
I will try this as soon as I can back to my office...
Stefan Steib
Active member
Hi Billy
Yes of course, we use an original Novoflex plate (=identical to the Astat Nex plate) for this.
Some more food for the people following:
A short look on todays Setup of my HCam Master TS for the shooting. The Canon 16-35mm offers 15mm of shift vertical from 22-34mm. I use it prestopped down to f11. See the nice Handle I added to the hotshoe. I found this to work perfectly when you have the setup split in half from out of the bag - Head and camera.
Sony A7R, Meike Batterygrip -full radio remote trigger/Timer.
Novoflex Magicball, HCam TS Rail and Crossrail.
Yes of course, we use an original Novoflex plate (=identical to the Astat Nex plate) for this.
Some more food for the people following:
A short look on todays Setup of my HCam Master TS for the shooting. The Canon 16-35mm offers 15mm of shift vertical from 22-34mm. I use it prestopped down to f11. See the nice Handle I added to the hotshoe. I found this to work perfectly when you have the setup split in half from out of the bag - Head and camera.
Sony A7R, Meike Batterygrip -full radio remote trigger/Timer.
Novoflex Magicball, HCam TS Rail and Crossrail.
Stefan Steib
Active member
Hi David
The new HCam Master TS version IS Version 2 - you have Version 1.
(I´m not counting the Mirex versions without the rotation)
The diameter of the inner opening has grown 3mm horizontal and 6mm ! vertical.
We have done this with all possible tricks after I had found the 11-24mm Canon to vignette on the V1 and I had the firm will to get this working.
And: the new Version also allows to exchange the back mount.
In the future additional to Sony E-Mount, there will be
Canon EOS-M
Samsung NX
Fuji X
MFT.
Dealers will be able to change this for their customers.
Greetings from Germany
Stefan
The new HCam Master TS version IS Version 2 - you have Version 1.
(I´m not counting the Mirex versions without the rotation)
The diameter of the inner opening has grown 3mm horizontal and 6mm ! vertical.
We have done this with all possible tricks after I had found the 11-24mm Canon to vignette on the V1 and I had the firm will to get this working.
And: the new Version also allows to exchange the back mount.
In the future additional to Sony E-Mount, there will be
Canon EOS-M
Samsung NX
Fuji X
MFT.
Dealers will be able to change this for their customers.
Greetings from Germany
Stefan
Do You have any upgrading program
?wallpaperviking
Member
Stefan,
Just looking to get an update on the progress of the adapter... I am keen to put an order in as soon as it is ready and tested
Daf,
You mention using the Contax 35mm PC lens and stitching to a 645 format and running into some CA (sorry cannot remember where I saw that). Just wondering, is this easily correctible? Also, if stitching to a 645 format with the Hcam adapter, how much rise can still be achieved with the Contax 35mm PC lens?
Thanks so much!
Just looking to get an update on the progress of the adapter... I am keen to put an order in as soon as it is ready and tested
Daf,
You mention using the Contax 35mm PC lens and stitching to a 645 format and running into some CA (sorry cannot remember where I saw that). Just wondering, is this easily correctible? Also, if stitching to a 645 format with the Hcam adapter, how much rise can still be achieved with the Contax 35mm PC lens?
Thanks so much!
@wallpaperviking:
Here are the imagecircle test : http://www.getdpi.com/forum/626539-post111.html
I would say sharpness is good in 90% of the frame at f11 ... CA is present in all the image area(even unshifted) starting to get strong with 15mm shift from center but correctable.
But if you need to stitch+shift and want a 35, then this is the best option...if you need only stitch then pentax 645 35mm is the way to go.
Keep I mind that the max stitching area is 36x54 resulting in 70/80mpx with a7r.
For the same field of view, you can also go with 24tse+Sony a6000 Max area is 24x44 and 70mpx....this option offer more shift option and tilt/swing on the lens.
For me: I only shoot 1 shot, I never stitch so Sony a7r with 36 mpx make sens but if I were stitching then apsc make a lot more sens as you stay in the sweet spot of the lens...
For exemple, if you don't need rise/fall but only laterale shift for stitching using A6000 (24x44mm capture aera) then you can go with the best Art series 24/35/50...stay in the sweet spot of the lens with 70mpx output, and you have the tilt on the adapter to optimize the plan of focus and keep your aperture at f5,6.....
Here are the imagecircle test : http://www.getdpi.com/forum/626539-post111.html
I would say sharpness is good in 90% of the frame at f11 ... CA is present in all the image area(even unshifted) starting to get strong with 15mm shift from center but correctable.
But if you need to stitch+shift and want a 35, then this is the best option...if you need only stitch then pentax 645 35mm is the way to go.
Keep I mind that the max stitching area is 36x54 resulting in 70/80mpx with a7r.
For the same field of view, you can also go with 24tse+Sony a6000 Max area is 24x44 and 70mpx....this option offer more shift option and tilt/swing on the lens.
For me: I only shoot 1 shot, I never stitch so Sony a7r with 36 mpx make sens but if I were stitching then apsc make a lot more sens as you stay in the sweet spot of the lens...
For exemple, if you don't need rise/fall but only laterale shift for stitching using A6000 (24x44mm capture aera) then you can go with the best Art series 24/35/50...stay in the sweet spot of the lens with 70mpx output, and you have the tilt on the adapter to optimize the plan of focus and keep your aperture at f5,6.....