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IQ180 - Remote Shutter Release not working anymore

KEVINS

New member
After a few months of use the new Hahnel remote shutter release isn't working on my IQ180. It was working fine then got sporadic now nothing. I don't want to spend another $100+ dollars on another one just to fine out that it's the digital back having issues.

1. Is there a less expensive remote shutter release that will work?
2. Any other way to troubleshoot the issue?

Thank you.
Kevin
 

jng

Well-known member
After a few months of use the new Hahnel remote shutter release isn't working on my IQ180. It was working fine then got sporadic now nothing. I don't want to spend another $100+ dollars on another one just to fine out that it's the digital back having issues.

1. Is there a less expensive remote shutter release that will work?
2. Any other way to troubleshoot the issue?

Thank you.
Kevin
Hmmmm, I ran into the same issue recently with the Hahnel and my IQ4 150, but haven't had time to troubleshoot. I would be interested in hearing if others have run into this problem as well. My previous hack of using a cheap remote worked fine with my IQ3100 (I think via the multi-pin adapter, but it's been awhile...) didn't work at all with the IQ4, and hence the more expensive Hahnel.

John
 

KEVINS

New member
I don't remember if I assembled the cable onto the trigger handle but the cable just simply twists 90* into the plastic handle and makes connection via a 3-pole jack.
I took the plastic enclosure apart and the internal build is simple and I couldn't see a mechanical issue within which almost leaves the cable as the issue or the DB.

What hack parts did you use for the IQ300? I may give them a try..

Kevin.
 

jng

Well-known member
I don't remember if I assembled the cable onto the trigger handle but the cable just simply twists 90* into the plastic handle and makes connection via a 3-pole jack.
I took the plastic enclosure apart and the internal build is simple and I couldn't see a mechanical issue within which almost leaves the cable as the issue or the DB.

What hack parts did you use for the IQ300? I may give them a try..

Kevin.
OK, it's coming back to me... unfortunately I don't think my hack will help you - I was using a cheap remote via 3-pole 2.5mm plug, plugged into the multi-pin adaptor, to trigger the electronic shutter in the back itself (pushing the button just closed the circuit, from what I understand). I take it you are using the remote to trigger a Phase One or Mamiya camera body? If so, I have no experience with that. Apologies for any confusion I may have caused.
 

KEVINS

New member
OK, it's coming back to me... unfortunately I don't think my hack will help you - I was using a cheap remote via 3-pole 2.5mm plug, plugged into the multi-pin adaptor, to trigger the electronic shutter in the back itself (pushing the button just closed the circuit, from what I understand). I take it you are using the remote to trigger a Phase One or Mamiya camera body? If so, I have no experience with that. Apologies for any confusion I may have caused.
Ah.. Yea, I'm using a P1 body and back...
After seeing the type of plug that the cable has I thought about buying a cheap remote button and just plug this cable into it but I don't think the button portion is the issue.

I suppose if I knew the pin-out of this plug I could try and trigger the camera body by jumping the plug...

Thinking about this more: there are a lot of pins on the camera but only 2-3 connections at the button so a lot of the camera pins get the same voltage signal (unless they are empty pins that don't do anything). It seems possible that if the camera had issues a few pins would still work while others may not. If the button wasn't feeding any signal to the camera then nothing on the camera would work at all which is my issue b/c the camera isn't registering anything from the button..

Thoughts on my logic?

ks
 

BFD

Active member
Ah.. Yea, I'm using a P1 body and back...
After seeing the type of plug that the cable has I thought about buying a cheap remote button and just plug this cable into it but I don't think the button portion is the issue.

I suppose if I knew the pin-out of this plug I could try and trigger the camera body by jumping the plug...

Thinking about this more: there are a lot of pins on the camera but only 2-3 connections at the button so a lot of the camera pins get the same voltage signal (unless they are empty pins that don't do anything). It seems possible that if the camera had issues a few pins would still work while others may not. If the button wasn't feeding any signal to the camera then nothing on the camera would work at all which is my issue b/c the camera isn't registering anything from the button..

Thoughts on my logic?

ks
I would think it's not a voltage (or much of) thing but just a resistance loop. If you are under warranty, no need to worry about experimenting. If the cable is dead, I would just cut it and see how many wires are in there. Maybe only two, then you could wire up a new button. It would be great if Phase One was like RED and put the pin outs on their website so you could easily figure it out.
 

jng

Well-known member
Ah.. Yea, I'm using a P1 body and back...
After seeing the type of plug that the cable has I thought about buying a cheap remote button and just plug this cable into it but I don't think the button portion is the issue.

I suppose if I knew the pin-out of this plug I could try and trigger the camera body by jumping the plug...

Thinking about this more: there are a lot of pins on the camera but only 2-3 connections at the button so a lot of the camera pins get the same voltage signal (unless they are empty pins that don't do anything). It seems possible that if the camera had issues a few pins would still work while others may not. If the button wasn't feeding any signal to the camera then nothing on the camera would work at all which is my issue b/c the camera isn't registering anything from the button..

Thoughts on my logic?

ks
My limited knowledge can only prove to be dangerous (i.e., I really have no idea!), so it's probably best if I stop here. Hopefully others who know better will chime in...

John
 

KEVINS

New member
I did a firmware reset which didn't help then upgraded the firmware and still didn't help so Steve H from CI found my invoice and will look at the button upon arrival and possibly give me some credit on a new one.
Hopefully a new one is all that is required to get things working again..

Kevin S.
 

buildbot

Active member
Hopefully it is just the release!

I figured out the pinout based on a PCB I had with the connection names printed onto it: A79A546B-95D8-41F8-A99F-1386B70840D1.png
 

KEVINS

New member
Just a quick update:
Steve at C1 has been using the button all week with several bodies and hasn't had any issues so the button is coming back to me.
At this time I'm hoping it will magically work after it's little vacation in Steve's hands...

Kevin
 

KEVINS

New member
I got the button a few minutes ago from C1, plugged it in and I couldn't get it working...aarrgg.. I was wiggling the plug and taking the DB off and putting it back on and during all this I see ANOTHER plug that is located on the 645 body just like the one on the DB that I had been using for some reason...
YEP, for some reason the last time I removed the cord and plugged it back in I plugged it into the DB not the 645 socket which was hidden behind the neck strap so I never saw it...

I bet I NEVER make that mistake again!!
Have a good laugh on me and a great weekend!

Kevin S.
 
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