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IQ180 - Remote Shutter Release not working anymore

KEVINS

Member
After a few months of use the new Hahnel remote shutter release isn't working on my IQ180. It was working fine then got sporadic now nothing. I don't want to spend another $100+ dollars on another one just to fine out that it's the digital back having issues.

1. Is there a less expensive remote shutter release that will work?
2. Any other way to troubleshoot the issue?

Thank you.
Kevin
 

jng

Well-known member
After a few months of use the new Hahnel remote shutter release isn't working on my IQ180. It was working fine then got sporadic now nothing. I don't want to spend another $100+ dollars on another one just to fine out that it's the digital back having issues.

1. Is there a less expensive remote shutter release that will work?
2. Any other way to troubleshoot the issue?

Thank you.
Kevin
Hmmmm, I ran into the same issue recently with the Hahnel and my IQ4 150, but haven't had time to troubleshoot. I would be interested in hearing if others have run into this problem as well. My previous hack of using a cheap remote worked fine with my IQ3100 (I think via the multi-pin adapter, but it's been awhile...) didn't work at all with the IQ4, and hence the more expensive Hahnel.

John
 

KEVINS

Member
I don't remember if I assembled the cable onto the trigger handle but the cable just simply twists 90* into the plastic handle and makes connection via a 3-pole jack.
I took the plastic enclosure apart and the internal build is simple and I couldn't see a mechanical issue within which almost leaves the cable as the issue or the DB.

What hack parts did you use for the IQ300? I may give them a try..

Kevin.
 

jng

Well-known member
I don't remember if I assembled the cable onto the trigger handle but the cable just simply twists 90* into the plastic handle and makes connection via a 3-pole jack.
I took the plastic enclosure apart and the internal build is simple and I couldn't see a mechanical issue within which almost leaves the cable as the issue or the DB.

What hack parts did you use for the IQ300? I may give them a try..

Kevin.
OK, it's coming back to me... unfortunately I don't think my hack will help you - I was using a cheap remote via 3-pole 2.5mm plug, plugged into the multi-pin adaptor, to trigger the electronic shutter in the back itself (pushing the button just closed the circuit, from what I understand). I take it you are using the remote to trigger a Phase One or Mamiya camera body? If so, I have no experience with that. Apologies for any confusion I may have caused.
 

KEVINS

Member
OK, it's coming back to me... unfortunately I don't think my hack will help you - I was using a cheap remote via 3-pole 2.5mm plug, plugged into the multi-pin adaptor, to trigger the electronic shutter in the back itself (pushing the button just closed the circuit, from what I understand). I take it you are using the remote to trigger a Phase One or Mamiya camera body? If so, I have no experience with that. Apologies for any confusion I may have caused.
Ah.. Yea, I'm using a P1 body and back...
After seeing the type of plug that the cable has I thought about buying a cheap remote button and just plug this cable into it but I don't think the button portion is the issue.

I suppose if I knew the pin-out of this plug I could try and trigger the camera body by jumping the plug...

Thinking about this more: there are a lot of pins on the camera but only 2-3 connections at the button so a lot of the camera pins get the same voltage signal (unless they are empty pins that don't do anything). It seems possible that if the camera had issues a few pins would still work while others may not. If the button wasn't feeding any signal to the camera then nothing on the camera would work at all which is my issue b/c the camera isn't registering anything from the button..

Thoughts on my logic?

ks
 

BFD

Active member
Ah.. Yea, I'm using a P1 body and back...
After seeing the type of plug that the cable has I thought about buying a cheap remote button and just plug this cable into it but I don't think the button portion is the issue.

I suppose if I knew the pin-out of this plug I could try and trigger the camera body by jumping the plug...

Thinking about this more: there are a lot of pins on the camera but only 2-3 connections at the button so a lot of the camera pins get the same voltage signal (unless they are empty pins that don't do anything). It seems possible that if the camera had issues a few pins would still work while others may not. If the button wasn't feeding any signal to the camera then nothing on the camera would work at all which is my issue b/c the camera isn't registering anything from the button..

Thoughts on my logic?

ks
I would think it's not a voltage (or much of) thing but just a resistance loop. If you are under warranty, no need to worry about experimenting. If the cable is dead, I would just cut it and see how many wires are in there. Maybe only two, then you could wire up a new button. It would be great if Phase One was like RED and put the pin outs on their website so you could easily figure it out.
 

jng

Well-known member
Ah.. Yea, I'm using a P1 body and back...
After seeing the type of plug that the cable has I thought about buying a cheap remote button and just plug this cable into it but I don't think the button portion is the issue.

I suppose if I knew the pin-out of this plug I could try and trigger the camera body by jumping the plug...

Thinking about this more: there are a lot of pins on the camera but only 2-3 connections at the button so a lot of the camera pins get the same voltage signal (unless they are empty pins that don't do anything). It seems possible that if the camera had issues a few pins would still work while others may not. If the button wasn't feeding any signal to the camera then nothing on the camera would work at all which is my issue b/c the camera isn't registering anything from the button..

Thoughts on my logic?

ks
My limited knowledge can only prove to be dangerous (i.e., I really have no idea!), so it's probably best if I stop here. Hopefully others who know better will chime in...

John
 

KEVINS

Member
I did a firmware reset which didn't help then upgraded the firmware and still didn't help so Steve H from CI found my invoice and will look at the button upon arrival and possibly give me some credit on a new one.
Hopefully a new one is all that is required to get things working again..

Kevin S.
 

KEVINS

Member
Just a quick update:
Steve at C1 has been using the button all week with several bodies and hasn't had any issues so the button is coming back to me.
At this time I'm hoping it will magically work after it's little vacation in Steve's hands...

Kevin
 

KEVINS

Member
I got the button a few minutes ago from C1, plugged it in and I couldn't get it working...aarrgg.. I was wiggling the plug and taking the DB off and putting it back on and during all this I see ANOTHER plug that is located on the 645 body just like the one on the DB that I had been using for some reason...
YEP, for some reason the last time I removed the cord and plugged it back in I plugged it into the DB not the 645 socket which was hidden behind the neck strap so I never saw it...

I bet I NEVER make that mistake again!!
Have a good laugh on me and a great weekend!

Kevin S.
 

KEVINS

Member
.
.
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I'm a bit frustrated... I posted a question last week in the Imaging and Processing forum and it has yet to be approved/ posted despite me sidetracking another thread hoping to get someones attention so I am resurrecting this thread of mine to post a new issue I hope someone can help me with:

New Issue below:

Equipment:
PhaseOne camera With Linear Polarizing Filter on lens
Capture One
ColorChecker Camera Calibration software with Passport and their Larger card.

When I create a custom ICC profile and implement it to my images the images all look faded/milky in color. I’ve been fighting this lately and have no idea why.

I'm trying to do my best in producing accurate colored files of my artwork that can be published in magazines and entered into contests. I'm not looking for giclee' quality files just something that represents my paintings well.

Process:
Take photo of oil painting and of color checker card hanging on the oil painting in very controlled studio lighting.

Lights are two LED lights set at 5600 with linear polarizing filters.

Open C1 and crop out the color card.

Change Settings in C1 to:

Under BASE CHARACTERISTICS change to “NO COLOR CORRECTION”

Under CURVE change to LINEAR RESPONSE.

Done with changes.

Screen shot of image with these settings:
no color correction added.JPG



Crop around the color card and Export as a TIFF file:
settings.JPG



Load into Color Checker Software and it creates the ICC profile and I give it a unique name.

*******
Restart C1 and load my image without the card displayed. See screenshot of image below.

before.JPG


Change Settings in C1 to:

Under BASE CHARACTERISTICS change to the “new ICC Profile”

Under CURVE change to AUTO

Leave “WHITE BALANCE” > “AS SHOT”


Done and image looks like crap. See screenshot:

after.JPG



I have no idea what I’m doing wrong. The only way I can get a decent image is by using my Canon camera and Color Checker software with a new ICC.

The screenshot below is what the image should look like. This image when printed on a calibrated Canon200 printer is 99.9% accurate to the painting. See screen shot below.
CORRECT FROM PS.JPG


Thoughts on what is messed up in C1 that would cause such differences?


*******

Another issue I have been fighting is White Balancing the images either in-camera or post. Using a grey card and setting the WB it completely turns the image orange. I've used several grey cards and all produce the same image. This happens if WB is done In-camera or PP in C1 or Adobe. I've placed the camera closer to the card and farther away and I moved the lights around trying to find something that may help but nothing works. I have no clue why this is happening and the only thing that I can think of is that the LED lights are screwing/falsifying how the camera is seeing the card....thoughts? I've tried setting the LED lights from 5600 to 5200 and no difference, same results.

What about the linear polarizing filter on the lens and lights causing colors to be misread on the card?


Before WB applied and this is close:
beforewb.JPG

After WB applied and this is way off:
after.JPG


Kevin

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dchew

Well-known member
Hi Kevin,
I cannot help much, but several years ago I was creating custom icc profiles for my IQ3100 and it worked fine with some very basic Fiilex LED lights. I am pretty sure whatever issues you have are not because you are using LED's as the source, unless they are non-photographic shop lights.

Several of your images are not displaying so I'm just interpreting your text. I was using Lumariver as the profile maker, not the Colorchecker software. Sorry, no help there.

As for the white balance issues, after you click on a gray square to WB, do the readings on your screen balance, i.e. is it like 200,200,200 (or LAB with low a/b values)? If so, then something is amiss with your color management and/or screen. I agree the second image is too orange/yellow, but the first image is far too cool. Loading them into PS and tagging some color samples, the second WB image is much closer than the first, but a little too red/green according to the color tag. Tag #1 is from the top image, #2 from the "after" image below. Note my "test" is from screenshots of screenshots of images posted on the internet. :rolleyes:

Dave

 

KEVINS

Member
Hi Kevin,
I cannot help much, but several years ago I was creating custom icc profiles for my IQ3100 and it worked fine with some very basic Fiilex LED lights. I am pretty sure whatever issues you have are not because you are using LED's as the source, unless they are non-photographic shop lights.

Several of your images are not displaying so I'm just interpreting your text. I was using Lumariver as the profile maker, not the Colorchecker software. Sorry, no help there.

As for the white balance issues, after you click on a gray square to WB, do the readings on your screen balance, i.e. is it like 200,200,200 (or LAB with low a/b values)? If so, then something is amiss with your color management and/or screen. I agree the second image is too orange/yellow, but the first image is far too cool. Loading them into PS and tagging some color samples, the second WB image is much closer than the first, but a little too red/green according to the color tag. Tag #1 is from the top image, #2 from the "after" image below. Note my "test" is from screenshots of screenshots of images posted on the internet. :rolleyes:

Dave
Thanks for the reply Dave. At this time any suggestions could help. Things are just going in the wrong direction quickly. I figured screen shots may be better since they should display based on how other peoples monitors are setup.


I have been researching different software and I am willing to purchase different software , Lumariver, basICColor input 6, etc but before I spend even MORE $$ I need more of an assurance that it will solve these issues. If you or anyone would like to play with these RAW files I am happy to send them and if you have good luck I will probably buy the software you're using..

The readings are not displayed as the lower LAB values they are 200, 200, 200 type values.
The Lights are not shop lights...

I have attached the images again to see if maybe they will show up:no color correction added.JPGbefore correction.JPGafter correction.JPG


The below is taken with my Canon 5Dsr and uses default Adobe 1998 profiles with no other color correction and it's really close to what the painting looks like. Some colors are off a tad but it's far closer right out of the camera than any attempted color correction so this was submitted for the magazine cover.
CORRECT FROM PS.JPG
 
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KEVINS

Member
I'm beginning to think the issue is with using Xrite with C1. Not sure which program is causing the issue but I can load the PhaseOne RAW file into Photoshop then create a DNG of the color card. Have the Xrite make the ICC and apply it to the RAW file in Adobe and there are no issues. Comparing the new profile against the default Adobe 1998 ICC shows minor differences in the red colors on the card otherwise the image looks unchanged. I wonder how Lumariver would handle it in C1...?

I am looking at the LAB colors of what each of the cells are supposed to be in the Colorchecker SG card and right out of the camera most cells aren't toooo bad but after applying the ICC profile is comical.

I still have no clue why the white balance turns my images orange, tho.

ks
 
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Ray Harrison

Well-known member
I'm beginning to think the issue is with using Xrite with C1. Not sure which program is causing the issue but I can load the PhaseOne RAW file into Photoshop then create a DNG of the color card. Have the Xrite make the ICC and apply it to the RAW file in Adobe and there are no issues. Comparing the new profile against the default Adobe 1998 ICC shows minor differences in the red colors on the card otherwise the image looks unchanged. I wonder how Lumariver would handle it in C1...?

I am looking at the LAB colors of what each of the cells are supposed to be in the Colorchecker SG card and right out of the camera most cells aren't toooo bad but after applying the ICC profile is comical.

I still have no clue why the white balance turns my images orange, tho.

ks
I’m very happy to try and run it through my basiccolor flow, if you like. I’ve never used Xrite-generated profiles with C1. If you want to go down that route, shoot the appropriate files over to rayharrison.wetransfer.com. I could get to it later this evening or early tomorrow.
 

KEVINS

Member
I’m very happy to try and run it through my basiccolor flow, if you like. I’ve never used Xrite-generated profiles with C1. If you want to go down that route, shoot the appropriate files over to rayharrison.wetransfer.com. I could get to it later this evening or early tomorrow.
Thanks Ray, I just sent you two RAW files to play with... Post your thoughts and experience when you get a chance and maybe post a screenshot of the results.

I tried the Lumariver demo and the processing within Lumariver was certainly different but being a demo I couldn't do much else for comparison. After processing the image within Lumariver the colors got duller and the image really darkened. It's as if I was looking a non-color corrected process so maybe this is what I was seeing instead of the corrected image...hard to tell..

I'm also going to have Eddie Wouters who photographs artwork for the IBEX colllection look at the same file I sent you so he can review what the RAW file looks like then process it to see what he thinks may be going on. There could be other things that I am missing before I even take the photo that he may be able to help me with.

Kevin
 

Ray Harrison

Well-known member
Thanks Ray, I just sent you two RAW files to play with... Post your thoughts and experience when you get a chance and maybe post a screenshot of the results.

I tried the Lumariver demo and the processing within Lumariver was certainly different but being a demo I couldn't do much else for comparison. After processing the image within Lumariver the colors got duller and the image really darkened. It's as if I was looking a non-color corrected process so maybe this is what I was seeing instead of the corrected image...hard to tell..

I'm also going to have Eddie Wouters who photographs artwork for the IBEX colllection look at the same file I sent you so he can review what the RAW file looks like then process it to see what he thinks may be going on. There could be other things that I am missing before I even take the photo that he may be able to help me with.

Kevin
Thank you for sending the files over Kevin. I'll post my results. It should be interesting at the very least :) .
 

KEVINS

Member
While you have them I'm also curious what color the photos end up with by simply doing a WB correction..

ks
 
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