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You should be able to hook a camera bag to the center of the tripod, helping with stability, or use a tripod hammock with some rocks in it. Depending on the terrain, you can always release and spread the legs out a bit more, using the accessory spikes to anchor the legs. The wider detent for the legs would probably make the tripod too low. I am basing this on my LS-324, I haven't used the LS-224.The tripod legs are somehow too steep, therefore the tripod looks more unstable than my other tripods.
Focus is not in the same spot in those images. The right one is focused further away from the camera.Screenshot from Capture One, 100%, both pictures taken with the 500C/M, LS-224 with mirror lock up. The left image looks sharper to me.
I was wondering whether the sharpness decrease was due to minor shake or focus adjustment, since I don't remember whether I refocused or not. I will give it some more real-world testing today on a short hike and see what comes out. My feeling until now is that it's too unstable to provide reliable results, which is not exactly surprising since I'm pushing the envelope quite a bit. I suppose for its original application with light weight mirrorless cameras it's quite a nice tripod.Focus is not in the same spot in those images. The right one is focused further away from the camera.
I always used mirror lock-up and cable release in the field, but I guess I'm just pushing the tripod beyond its limits with the 500C/M and Planar 80.I would use mirror lock-up, a timer or delay and a cable release. Barry Thornton did a very interesting test years ago in his book "Edge of Darkness" where he found that a 35mm camera hand-held at higher shutter speeds was sharper than a flimsy tripod at lower speeds.
Using a timer or delay lets the camera settle before the shutter fires. I makes a difference with the big mirror of a medium-format camera, even a well-damped one.I always used mirror lock-up and cable release in the field, but I guess I'm just pushing the tripod beyond its limits with the 500C/M and Planar 80.
Very interesting chart indeed!
This looks super from the specs, and one guy uses this tripod for his 8x10" camera. BUT, 84cm folded length won't go anywhere into the hand luggage. Cannot imagine flying with this and I guess it's inconvenient to store / carry in any case. It's quite a bit longer than my backpack.May not fold small enough for you (33"), but the FLM CP22 goes tall enough and weighs 2 lbs. https://www.flmcanada.com/product/flm-cp22-m2-ii-tripod/
Can you strap it to the side or back?This looks super from the specs, and one guy uses this tripod for his 8x10" camera. BUT, 84cm folded length won't go anywhere into the hand luggage. Cannot imagine flying with this and I guess it's inconvenient to store / carry in any case. It's quite a bit longer than my backpack.
Thank you! I could be more patient on the delay between mirror lock up and release.Using a timer or delay lets the camera settle before the shutter fires. I makes a difference with the big mirror of a medium-format camera, even a well-damped one.
Really good hints, thank you! I do most of these things already, but this sums it up very well and the hint with putting the hand on the camera is worth a trial!A few things to help with vibration and small tripods -
- delay and mirror lock up (always). 2 seconds minimum, sometimes up to 8 sec.
- weight on center column, to "load" the tripod, and reduce the resonant frequencies of vibration. In a pinch, I've even put my hand on the camera to steady it (counter-intuitive, but sometimes it works).
- if using a small tripod with spindly little legs, just don't extend them, and lower the overall height.
- fiddle with settings to reduce exposure time if possible. I did some test shots of the moon, and found that a higher ISO with shorter exposure gave clearer shots than a lower ISO and longer exposure.
- check the mounting. Undersized attachments can be a problem, especially if long exposures and long lenses.
And above all else, calm and zen go a long way. Cameras are sympathetic, and if the photographer is mellow, it will try to be too.
I could strap it to the side, but I'm afraid the 83cm are quite bothering as they are a lot longer than the backpack itself. The same tripod, but with a working height of approx 1m, making it pack to let's say 60cm incl. head, would be probably the best compromise of weight and stability.Can you strap it to the side or back?
I don't think a QR plate makes any difference, assuming its of high quality. RRS plates (Arca compatible) are on everything, cameras and tripods, for ease of changing heads. Rather the head itself that can be an issue. Favorite is Arca Swiss D4, but sometimes something more massive (Linhof 3D micro) is called for. Same with ballheads - which are no longer in the kit - BH40 is fine, imagine BH55 better.The thing I cannot do with my digital back is to reduce exposure times - the CCD backs don't perform too well on higher ISO.
Concerning undersized attachments, do you think a quick release plate makes a difference? I prefer having an Arca Swiss plate under each camera to be faster to set up.