Processing with DXO PureRAW 2

[pegelli]

I haven't used "Deep Prime" but I use Topaz Tools a lot (clarity/detail/denoise).

What I do is put the Topaz result on a layer on top of the original and then play with the opacity and blend with the original to get the result I want.
I sometimes put a mask on the Topaz created layer to treat some parts of the image more than others.

If you can indeed turn off lens distortion you could create a Deep Prime layer and put it on top of an original layer and play with opacity and masking to be more subtle than just a 100% global treatment. It's more work but for some images it might be worth to put in the effort.

 

[scho]

View attachment 192730



I have to see yet how much of a difference this option 'Global lens sharpening' makes.

I usually leave global lens sharpening off if it starts producing fine detail sharpening artifacts.

 

[rdeloe]

Great analysis and input in this thread. Without appearing ingratiating, one reason why I like hanging out here at GetDPI.

My feeling is that this is not a general purpose tool but one in toolbox to be used as and when appropriate. My toolbox includes LR (even better now with the new masking tools), Photoshop (cloning repairs, focus stacking, LAB colour processing), Color Efex (several recipes I apply to boost impact, or if I want to create a common look/feel for a series of photographs), TopazDeoniseAI (very useful in certain circumstances, although my feeling is that PR2 does a better job), Perspective Efex (sometimes, although mostly I do perspective correction in LR) and now PR2. LR is my main RAW processor and more importantly library tool.

As my knowledge and experience with digital images has expanded over the last 20+ years so has my use of tools. I've not found one single application that can do it all.

Thanks again to all for a great discussion.

LouisB

Exactly so. It clearly provides a useful solution for some situations (bird photography being a good example).

 

[biglouis]

I haven't used "Deep Prime" but I use Topaz Tools a lot (clarity/detail/denoise).

What I do is put the Topaz result on a layer on top of the original and then play with the opacity and blend with the original to get the result I want.
I sometimes put a mask on the Topaz created layer to treat some parts of the image more than others.

If you can indeed turn off lens distortion you could create a Deep Prime layer and put it on top of an original layer and play with opacity and masking to be more subtle than just a 100% global treatment. It's more work but for some images it might be worth to put in the effort.

That's an interesting process. Are you doing the layers work in Photoshop?

LouisB

 

[pegelli]

That's an interesting process. Are you doing the layers work in Photoshop?

LouisB

Yes, I do all my layers in Photoshop, Lightroom doesn't have layers yet (at least not the v. 6.14 I still use) and neither my C1 (v. 10)

But it's a simpler process since you just export from LR to Photoshop as a jpg or tif and then with 'crtl' J you create a duplicate layer on which you can do any Topaz (or other) magic and then adjust with opacity and/or layer masks before flattening back to one layer.

When using Deep Raw you would need to export the original as well as the Deep Raw treated dng and then put one on top of the other and you need to make sure both versions have exactly the same crop and exactly the same lens lens profile assigned (or no lens profile assigned at all), as soon as some pixels are moved differently between either version it wouldn't work anymore.

 

[biglouis]

Yes, I do all my layers in Photoshop, Lightroom doesn't have layers yet (at least not the v. 6.14 I still use) and neither my C1 (v. 10)

But it's a simpler process since you just export from LR to Photoshop as a jpg or tif and then with 'crtl' J you create a duplicate layer on which you can do any Topaz (or other) magic and then adjust with opacity and/or layer masks before flattening back to one layer.

When using Deep Raw you would need to export the original as well as the Deep Raw treated dng and then put one on top of the other and you need to make sure both versions have exactly the same crop and exactly the same lens lens profile assigned (or no lens profile assigned at all), as soon as some pixels are moved differently between either version it wouldn't work anymore.

Thanks for sharing the process. I must give it a try.

LouisB

 

[Paul2660]

Even Pure Raw ver 2, still IMO will at times take too much fine details out of an image due to the noise reduction. I would love to see them add the ability to have a slider on noise reduction or at least some other setting. It will smooth out finer details in the distance on a lot of my GFX100 shots, but also pulls out a lot of other details at times. So I still use it in the workflow most times for the GFX100.

Paul

 

[biglouis]

Just a couple of more examples of applying the software to raw images, this time with the XF200 on the X-T4. I really think it can make a difference. I also should add that the new masking tools, especially 'select subject' and the ability to invert the selection to deconstruct the background are really useful, to me.


Original RAF processed to taste in LR.


Processed in Pure RAW then to taste in Lightroom - PR2 creates a cleaner dng with to my eye selective sharpening. I don't see the loss of detail but my eyes are pretty crap at present with allergies, old age, etc.

 

[Paul2660]

Where I see loss of detail is in landscape images where distance objects seem to get too much noise reduction in processing. Example would be trees in the distance losing the finer leaf/branch details. I would still prefer a slider for control of noise reduction.
Paul

 

[Jorgen Udvang]

I use a simplest possible workflow with PureRAW, which I have used for well over 6 months now:

- I run all photos through PureRAW with all options, saved as DNG files in a separate folder. This I do as a batch job without any manual interference.
- If the photos that I'm going to use looks good that way, I continue processing with ACR and Photoshop.
- Photos that have been over processed or have other problems after the DXO processing, I either process those photos individually in PureRAW without sharpening, or I process from the original RAW file in ACR, then with Topaz Sharpener and Denoise as needed.

Since the initial PureRAW processing is done as a batch job, this saves me time, although the result takes up some disk space. My time however, is more valuable to me than the price of more disks, so I find this solution satisfactory.

 

[biglouis]

I use a simplest possible workflow with PureRAW, which I have used for well over 6 months now:

- I run all photos through PureRAW with all options, saved as DNG files in a separate folder. This I do as a batch job without any manual interference.
- If the photos that I'm going to use looks good that way, I continue processing with ACR and Photoshop.
- Photos that have been over processed or have other problems after the DXO processing, I either process those photos individually in PureRAW without sharpening, or I process from the original RAW file in ACR, then with Topaz Sharpener and Denoise as needed.

Since the initial PureRAW processing is done as a batch job, this saves me time, although the result takes up some disk space. My time however, is more valuable to me than the price of more disks, so I find this solution satisfactory.

That's a really good workflow tip. On my next trip back to the reserve for more bird photography, I think I'll try that process first.

Louis