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Schneider Apo Digitar 24mm 5.6 XL with centre filter with the CFV 100C

jwest

New member
John and I are using similar outfits based on the Arca-Swiss F-Universalis and GFX 100S cameras. The only lenses I'm using that needs an LCC frame is the S-K APO-Digitar 35mm f/5.6. And it only needs it for light falloff because colour cast is not something I'm seeing due to the BSI sensor in the GFX 100S. When I forget to use an LCC frame, I can fix light falloff if necessary in Lightroom.

You can spend a Land Rover's worth of money on this if you want to use digital view cameras and technical cameras, but that's a choice. There are reasonably priced options galore.
I doubt you get much shift movement out of that arrangement due to the body flange to sensor cave. ;- ) right ? Also, 35 isn't very wide IMO so the GFX + any view camera type lens is useless for any wide angle shooting, especially if needing shift.

What I would want ideally is 4x5 coverage, or at least 6x12, from a lens not needing a bunch of post BS to make it work. I'd want to turn a 33x44 digital back into portrait, then overlap stitch for a 1:2 proportion which is only about 44x88 but in reality the lens needs to have a larger image circle for quality in the capture zone. Even then, the 30mm GF TS lens can almost do that right on it's own LCC issue-free body.

I'm probably just mentally stuck wanting a digital version of what used to be the gold standard. I don't have a drum scanner as I missed that window of opportunity when they were dumped by all the pro labs but I do have the Nikon "Super Coolscan 9000 ED" which is about the next best thing for 120 film.
 

jwest

New member
John and I are using similar outfits based on the Arca-Swiss F-Universalis and GFX 100S cameras. The only lenses I'm using that needs an LCC frame is the S-K APO-Digitar 35mm f/5.6. And it only needs it for light falloff because colour cast is not something I'm seeing due to the BSI sensor in the GFX 100S. When I forget to use an LCC frame, I can fix light falloff if necessary in Lightroom.

You can spend a Land Rover's worth of money on this if you want to use digital view cameras and technical cameras, but that's a choice. There are reasonably priced options galore.
Also, I did study that camera system and decided to go with the Field F-Metric 69/45 to utilize my film oriented lenses and 69/612 backs and scanner workflow for a new project series. I also miss not having type 54 polaroid for the test shots LOL
 

rdeloe

Well-known member
I doubt you get much shift movement out of that arrangement due to the body flange to sensor cave. ;- ) right ? Also, 35 isn't very wide IMO so the GFX + any view camera type lens is useless for any wide angle shooting, especially if needing shift.

What I would want ideally is 4x5 coverage, or at least 6x12, from a lens not needing a bunch of post BS to make it work. I'd want to turn a 33x44 digital back into portrait, then overlap stitch for a 1:2 proportion which is only about 44x88 but in reality the lens needs to have a larger image circle for quality in the capture zone. Even then, the 30mm GF TS lens can almost do that right on it's own LCC issue-free body.

I'm probably just mentally stuck wanting a digital version of what used to be the gold standard. I don't have a drum scanner as I missed that window of opportunity when they were dumped by all the pro labs but I do have the Nikon "Super Coolscan 9000 ED" which is about the next best thing for 120 film.
With GFX cameras, the sensor is in a fairly deep cavity. This limits shift to around 25mm before hard vignetting. I have one lens that can go a bit farther. Wide angle symmetrical lenses will be max 25mm. If you are flat stitching, you can get around this because the stitching software will ignore the vignette area if there's image data in the overlapping file.

The widest symmetrical lens that I can use on my F-Universalis + GFX is the S-K APO-Digitar 35/5.6, and it is limited to 7.5mm of shift. This is why people who want wider angles with lots of shift use technical cameras and Rodenstock HR lenses. If you need wider on GFX, it makes the most sense to use the 24mm Canon T-S lens, despite it being less than ideal.

For your specific challenge (stitch for a 1:2 proportion to produce the equivalent of a sensor that is 44mm x 88mm) you need to be able to shift 28mm on the short axis. That requires an image circle of 99mm, but you're right at the edges so your quality expectations will not be met. Ideally you're after a larger image circle. You could pull this off with a lens designed to cover 6x9 film, but it won't be a wide lens. For instance, the APO-Symmar 100/5.6 I use could handle this because it has a large and good circle of good definition. On GFX, you will have to deal with mechanical vignetting, but as I said earlier it's a solvable problem if you shoot the required three images (shift, centre, shift).

A final issue you have to deal with is whether you have enough shift room on your camera. My F-Universalis only shifts 25mm left and right. I can do more by shoving the standards in their holders, but that's a pain.

The elephant in the room is do you really need that many pixels? How large are you planning to print these files? Using a GFX 100 series camera, the 44mm x 88mm "sensor" is producing a file that will print 78" on the long side at 300 ppi.
 

John Leathwick

Well-known member
I doubt you get much shift movement out of that arrangement due to the body flange to sensor cave. ;- ) right ? Also, 35 isn't very wide IMO so the GFX + any view camera type lens is useless for any wide angle shooting, especially if needing shift.

What I would want ideally is 4x5 coverage, or at least 6x12, from a lens not needing a bunch of post BS to make it work. I'd want to turn a 33x44 digital back into portrait, then overlap stitch for a 1:2 proportion which is only about 44x88 but in reality the lens needs to have a larger image circle for quality in the capture zone. Even then, the 30mm GF TS lens can almost do that right on it's own LCC issue-free body.

I'm probably just mentally stuck wanting a digital version of what used to be the gold standard. I don't have a drum scanner as I missed that window of opportunity when they were dumped by all the pro labs but I do have the Nikon "Super Coolscan 9000 ED" which is about the next best thing for 120 film.
For me this is simply a case of horses for courses. My five-lens kit, which I've optimised for landscape and nature photography in remote locations, weighs just 3.3 kg, and it works very well for me - but there is no way that I would attempt architectural photography with it. Conversely, I would have little use for your GF 30mm tilt-shift lens, which on its own, weighs 30% more than my five lenses combined; great for architecture, but such wide-angle lenses are not my preferred option for landscapes. I certainly wouldn't take it on the outing that I did yesterday that involved an 800 m climb up a steep rocky mountainside. I took one wide-angle shot (35mm) for which I used an LCC that worked perfectly in about 5 seconds - the rest of the images that I took were of the specialised alpine plants that grow at high elevations in the dry Canterbury rain-shadow mountains (see here). Most were taken with 60mm or 90mm focal length lenses. So for me its simply a case of matching gear to goals - like boats, there are no perfect cameras - all involve compromise and have different strengths and weaknesses.

-John
 
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