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Sigma DP3M

biglouis

Well-known member
Louis.....for some reason this made me laugh REALLY REALLY hard.

Thanks......R
Rich

OT: a friend of mine worked in a record company auditioning tapes hopeful bands would send in (I wonder if they are now called 'digital download companies'?).

I asked him once to explain to me how he knew he had a hot hit on his hands.

"Oh, that's easy" he replied, "I listen for the FM factor"
"FM factor?" " I quizzed, "What is that?"
"Well, I listen to the tape and what I am hoping for is that pretty much as soon as the band starts playing my first reaction is f&*% me!"

I've adopted the same reaction when viewing photographs. That Cathedral shot has a very high FM factor. You just know it would blow up into a 30x20 print that would look absolutely gorgeous.

LouisB
 

Michiel Schierbeek

Well-known member
Those photographs are not really inspiring and look rather dull. :confused:

Let's hope the real production one is a lot better for the inspired photographer :rolleyes:

Michiel
 

Hulyss Bowman

Active member
Those photographs are not really inspiring and look rather dull. :confused:

Let's hope the real production one is a lot better for the inspired photographer :rolleyes:

Michiel
I totally agree with you and I think most of the other participants of this thread too.

By looking at the exifs front the photographed subjects I came with 3 conclusions :

¤ SIGMA asked him to shoot only between f2.8 and f4.5 (witch I doubt but can be possible with unfinished product).

¤ The guy was exited by the product and used it like he use the DP2 Merrill ... witch lead me to the third conclusion ...

¤ With all due respect to this photographer, he does not know really well how to shoot with a given focal length : He is simply an amateur photographer with a test toy.
 

Quentin_Bargate

Well-known member
For us, start of March in UK + France.

I think SIGMA do not read the forums. With what you produce, I would have sent you a test unit ...
Ha! thanks, Hulyss, I guess I can wait a few more weeks. I'm pretty sure we will all be happy with it - I wonder if its macro capability is better than the DP2 with close up accessory lens?

Quentin
 

Hulyss Bowman

Active member
Ha! thanks, Hulyss, I guess I can wait a few more weeks. I'm pretty sure we will all be happy with it - I wonder if its macro capability is better than the DP2 with close up accessory lens?

Quentin
The DP2m with AML-2 Close-up lens output some nice photos BUT I think the DP3m will nail it for real.

At first, just to speak about quickness of use. While you need to unscrew the lens hood and screw the AML-2, the DP3m, in two click, is operational for macro use with certainly nicer bokeh and better perspectives (absolutely less wide angle).

But I seen what we can call a sort of anomaly, on DP2m as well on the DP3m test shoots : The DP2m is not that good in close-up at f2.8. We can see a sort of very subtitle glare/softness, something similar with what we can see out of the CZ 50f1.4 @ f1.4/1.9 (in far less pronounced). I don't know why but this anomaly disappear once your get farther from the subject. Probably something to do with retrofocus diffraction when a certain lens group move too close to the sensor. We can see it here, for example : http://www.flickr.com/photos/shio/8428807692/in/set-72157632641352067

I may say that it is not so bad, after all, for portraits :)

As I can see, the DP3m do have the same anomaly but this is not a problem given the focal length (at least for me).

Anyway, for my unit, the best bokeh out of the DP2 Merrill is at f3.2, not 2.8, and I'm pretty sure it will be the same with the DP3m ;)
 

Hulyss Bowman

Active member
So, given the beta shoots above, I found an interesting photo to work with. I will shoot Humans with this device and she react well under mixed tricky lightning. I get the jpeg and tweaked it to see and it confirm I will buy this camera. You can see my subtitle tweak in the pictures below, the first is the original, the second is the adjusted one for ASIAN skin only. There is far different settings for different skins. Credit photo : digitalbear
 

Hulyss Bowman

Active member
Hulyss: I like the treatment. God knows I have enough cameras, but...
Hello Kit,

The treatment is simple. In CS6 you select the pipette to seek info in the picture. The Info we are looking for are white (255;255;255) and black (0;0;0) or what it come closer. Once you got the info, you open a level layer and take the black point pipette to click on your black (or closer) and then, the white point pipette to click on you white. Fusion layer.

Second operation is going to hue saturation. Select Red and type +5 then, go in Yellow and type -8 (-8 is the yellow pre set for Asian skin independent of lightning source, other skin may vary between -5 and -15. Still working on black skins)

Third operation is to go in filter >> noise reduction >> color noise reduction >> 100%

and voila :)

This will sort out a load of so called "foveon problems".

IF the Hue/Saturation operations above impact too much other coloured objects in the photo, just duplicate you background layer, apply the hue/saturation trick, fusion with below layer, take the eraser and erase all "non human" areas, fusion with back ground and voila.
 
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pophoto

New member
It's still pretty much the same story to me from these BETA samples: Details are there, but I dislike the skin tones especially on Asian skin. If you need the focal length on a Sigma DP Merril camera, this is it!

The suggested pricing $999 is great news! I really hope Sigma's next announcement is neither camera or lens, but they have been working fully with Adobe in getting correct profiles for Lightroom..... yeah, I know, dream on!
 

kgelner

New member
It's still pretty much the same story to me from these BETA samples: Details are there, but I dislike the skin tones especially on Asian skin. If you need the focal length on a Sigma DP Merril camera, this is it!
If you look at the EXIF for these, I don't think they were processed very well. For one thing the color mode on all of them is "standard" and I really think "Neutral" is a better base for color. Also, the indoor ones at least really abused the Fill Light feature of SPP, values as high as 1.1... that can also mess with colors and lead to odd artifacts.
 

4711

New member
Hi

I looked at these flickr images and many of them have this green colour cast. Not only on skin. I have seen this on many other Sigma images on the net too. Also with other Sigma cameras.

But I never saw this green colour cast with the images shown in the DP2M thread here in the getdpi forum.

So my question ist: What do you do differently to avoid this green colour cast? What are your settings in the camera, in SPP and in LR/PS?

It seems to me that many Sigma users only develop the images wrongly in SPP. Is there a "how-to" guide to avoid this green colour cast?
 
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