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Sony A1 images

spb

Well-known member
Staff member
Another experiment and I ask for comments on how I could better such images.

ISO 800, F22, 1/13th hand-held, FE 70-200mm F2.8 GM OSS II + 1.4X at 280mm.

Edited in Capture One 22.SPB00290.jpg
 

pegelli

Well-known member
Another experiment and I ask for comments on how I could better such images.
ISO 800, F22, 1/13th hand-held, FE 70-200mm F2.8 GM OSS II + 1.4X at 280mm.
Nice effort but a couple of comments Stephen (since you asked for it)
- Why f22? you don't need the depth of field for the moon (it's all infinity) so f 8 is still OK and you could even use f5.6.
- 1/13 th handheld at 280 mm, that's 4,5 stops slower than normal handheld so a really big faith in the IBIS and lens stabilisation,
opening your aperture would have given you a shorter time or you could use a tripod, but since the moon moves a shorter time is better anyway
- iso 800, again using a larger aperture will allow you to drop it, but I don't think it's a big problem with this shot
- use a longer lens (if you have one) so the moon is bigger in the shot
- There's some kind of ghost moon just left of the moon, internal lens reflection? If yes I would clone (or crop) it out
- When the moon is so small you could try to use trees or buildings as a silhouette in front to add more interest in the photo

I'm looking forward to your next try :)
 

spb

Well-known member
Staff member
Nice effort but a couple of comments Stephen (since you asked for it)
- Why f22? you don't need the depth of field for the moon (it's all infinity) so f 8 is still OK and you could even use f5.6.
- 1/13 th handheld at 280 mm, that's 4,5 stops slower than normal handheld so a really big faith in the IBIS and lens stabilisation,
opening your aperture would have given you a shorter time or you could use a tripod, but since the moon moves a shorter time is better anyway
- iso 800, again using a larger aperture will allow you to drop it, but I don't think it's a big problem with this shot
- use a longer lens (if you have one) so the moon is bigger in the shot
- There's some kind of ghost moon just left of the moon, internal lens reflection? If yes I would clone (or crop) it out
- When the moon is so small you could try to use trees or buildings as a silhouette in front to add more interest in the photo

I'm looking forward to your next try :)
Thank you very much, I did not like the I one I took at 5.6, so i tried F8 and F22, but I thank you for the comment on F-Stop, should have used a tripod. What F stop, ISO, shutter speed would you use, as a base for such a shot? Would you open it to 2.8 (wide open) on my lens?

I was lazy I couldn't sleep so it was shot through a window, at that time of night couldn't be bothered to set up the quattropod!

I don't have a longer lens, I could of course try next setting the A1 to APS-C - what do you think to that?

Thank you again for all of your comments!
 

pegelli

Well-known member
Hi Stephen, I am certainly not a specialist but I've done a few moon shots and my best effort was a lunar eclipse cycle in January 2019:



The full moon shot was at 400 mm (a 2x converter on a 200/2.8 prime lens), iso 100, f16, 1/125th sec and then cropped 1200x1200 pixels from a 24 MP APS-C sensor (so from 6000x4000 pixels) and on a tripod. Later in the sequence I had to increase my shutter speed and certainy when I had 1/25th sec or longer I could see the movement of the moon.

On a cloudless night you can expose the full moon using the simple "sunny 16" rule, i.e. f16 and a shutter speed of 1/iso, part moon or a slight haze leads to longer exposures required.

So to get a sharp moonshot I'd keep my shutter speed at least shorter than 1/50th second, stop the lens down 1 or 2 stops from full open, use a tripod and let iso float wherever it needs to be for that. Using the APS-C setting will give a bigger moon in the resulting image, but cropping the full frame shot after the fact will result in exactly the same result, so that really doesn't matter too much.
 

spb

Well-known member
Staff member
Hi Stephen, I am certainly not a specialist but I've done a few moon shots and my best effort was a lunar eclipse cycle in January 2019:



The full moon shot was at 400 mm (a 2x converter on a 200/2.8 prime lens), iso 100, f16, 1/125th sec and then cropped 1200x1200 pixels from a 24 MP APS-C sensor (so from 6000x4000 pixels) and on a tripod. Later in the sequence I had to increase my shutter speed and certainy when I had 1/25th sec or longer I could see the movement of the moon.

On a cloudless night you can expose the full moon using the simple "sunny 16" rule, i.e. f16 and a shutter speed of 1/iso, part moon or a slight haze leads to longer exposures required.

So to get a sharp moonshot I'd keep my shutter speed at least shorter than 1/50th second, stop the lens down 1 or 2 stops from full open, use a tripod and let iso float wherever it needs to be for that. Using the APS-C setting will give a bigger moon in the resulting image, but cropping the full frame shot after the fact will result in exactly the same result, so that really doesn't matter too much.
Brilliant thank you very much for all that info. I suspected "Using the APS-C setting will give a bigger moon in the resulting image, but cropping full frame......".

Will try again soon.
 

spb

Well-known member
Staff member
This was the last one I took, but this is a severe crop and a jpg. So it was ISO 800, F22, 1/13 s, 280mm. I think this is pretty good BUT, I have taken on board your advice for the next time around.

What you said made me ask myself why did I not crop it before loading the first time!
 

Attachments

spb

Well-known member
Staff member
Prius 4th generation. 70-200 GM II + 1.4. ISO 200, F25, 1/160th, 98mm equiv. The first version of the car that I think looks good.SPB00352.jpg
 
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