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Swebo TCS20

No, no, I get it. It's quite a different thing to pay a grand for a full tech cam that comes in a box with some adapters, etc. Vs say 5k. It's like, it is the Chinese price point for all things. I mean, there's a reason why they are the workbench of the world and exporting everything everywhere and as a result dominate certain product categories.

They do the same in the Leica world with the new companies that produce very cheap Leica lenses for a few hundred bucks instead of five grand ...
 
I did a technical review of one of their models for a colleague who was considering becoming a local dealer a couple years ago. As others have hinted already in this thread, one of the main challenges is the language barrier. The person at the other end of the email has no English, so communication involved short phrases that would translate reliably.
 
Its the “Chactus”!

Re dealership for SWEBO - a lot of these Chinese companies sell direct to consumer given the razor thin margins and low retail pricing.

Not sure how viable this would be to take a 20% cut on such a low value given you need to deal with customer service, logistics, etc, let alone pay for storage and Western employee salaries with social contributions etc etc. The guy milling these is probably just fine selling them from his shop globally.
 
Its the “Chactus”!

Re dealership for SWEBO - a lot of these Chinese companies sell direct to consumer given the razor thin margins and low retail pricing.

Not sure how viable this would be to take a 20% cut on such a low value given you need to deal with customer service, logistics, etc, let alone pay for storage and Western employee salaries with social contributions etc etc. The guy milling these is probably just fine selling them from his shop globally.
That's how it turned out. The idea of being a local dealer or whatever was not viable.
 
Soo, Schneider 58mm f/5.6 Super-Angulon XL just about fits and works with the recessed board. Shifting works ok with the default bellows, but it's pretty scary because the outer rim of the bellows comes really really close to the rear element. It wouldn't need to be that deep, I think, but it probably makes the manufacturing and assembly easier.

My understanding is that the widest lenses (at least the ones even wider than this) weren't exactly meant to be used with bellows but a technical camera with metal frame. Those cameras are built in a way that the lens can be extremely close to the film plane. This makes me think whether I'll get a bad time with color cast using this lens. It didn't look too bad against a white wall and I already know that LRc can do ok LCC.
 
Soo, Schneider 58mm f/5.6 Super-Angulon XL just about fits and works with the recessed board. Shifting works ok with the default bellows, but it's pretty scary because the outer rim of the bellows comes really really close to the rear element. It wouldn't need to be that deep, I think, but it probably makes the manufacturing and assembly easier.

My understanding is that the widest lenses (at least the ones even wider than this) weren't exactly meant to be used with bellows but a technical camera with metal frame. Those cameras are built in a way that the lens can be extremely close to the film plane. This makes me think whether I'll get a bad time with color cast using this lens. It didn't look too bad against a white wall and I already know that LRc can do ok LCC.

How bad lens cast is will depend mostly on the sensor you are using. A back side illuminated (BSI) sensor like the Sony 100 MP sensor used in GFX bodies and Hasselblad bodies could be fine. My GFX 50R showed terrible lens cast with wide symmetrical lenses, but the same lens on a 100S was fine.

I use lenses where the rear lens group is not just close to the camera -- it's in the camera! My APO-Digitar 35/5.6 is past the GFX camera mount, which means I only get 7.5mm of shift. It works great though. I don't even bother with an LCC panel a lot of the time.

Speaking of LCC panels... do you know what I'm talking about? If you are seeing a bit of lens cast, an LCC panel may tidy it up just fine.
 
Re dealership for SWEBO - a lot of these Chinese companies sell direct to consumer given the razor thin margins and low retail pricing.

Not sure how viable this would be to take a 20% cut on such a low value given you need to deal with customer service, logistics, etc, let alone pay for storage and Western employee salaries with social contributions etc etc. The guy milling these is probably just fine selling them from his shop globally.
It's funny, back in the olden days of the Canon AE-1 boom, Camera bodies themselves sold at negative margins. We lost $5 every time we sold one. But it was a volume business and also a "Razor blade" business - get the camera out there, hopefully make your margin up on accessories, and then keep the customer with film processing. Such was the golden age of Brick and Mortar camera stores. Used kit and lower volume stuff held a bit of margin, but it was a razor thin business.

I'd agree - for a low volume product like that, building in a 2 tier or three tier model (with a Disti to sell into a particular region, handle local language support and service etc) would push acquisition cost to an end user up to where you'd now be toe to toe with other, more established brands that DO work that way, like Cambo. If you cannot compete on price, you get to compete on quality, features and benefits (and marketing) and all of those things are expensive.
 
No one can compete with a "Chactus" on price, but very well on quality ... not a fan of AliExpress quality, tried some computer cables once, immediately regretted it as they were charing at 1/10 of the speed of the proper Apple ones, lol.

Oh well.
 
Speaking of LCC panels... do you know what I'm talking about? If you are seeing a bit of lens cast, an LCC panel may tidy it up just fine.

Yes, I have been trying to use one of those ExpoDisc WB things for that as I couldn't easily find an LCC panel in Rome. It seems to work ok for falloff but not always for colorcast. At least in LRc, which isn't necessary the best software on the market. Tbh, I'm more used to DaVinci Resolve and it just feels that C1 and LRc are far behind when it comes to color. On the other hand, DVR absolutely struggles with high MP single frames compared to any photo oriented program.

I have done some new "research" regarding the Hasselblad X1D II. I was wondering how fast exactly is the Mq mode, like could it be just the same SW & HW implementation as the digital backs have for PC sync input. In that case I could trigger by using the mic/trigger input. Well, it's not, it's actually terribly slow. What I believe the PC sync input is doing on digital backs is that it quickly resets all lines and exposes for 1 sec or so. The shutter will be open for whatever time during that 1 sec and you get the exposure you wanted. (I know this is not how CFV backs work on HB V bodies but we are interested in something different). Anyway, this is not how the X1D II works. If I set the lens shutter to 1/2 sec then I can usually get a tiny stripe exposed on the top. Interestingly it's never a clear cut but a gradient. I suppose that this means that the sensor reset is not global but slowly rolling top down.

This is all very interesting because I can't see how they can make the exposure work properly with this sensor even with the proper PC input handling? Because X sync happens when the shuter is already open, right? Do they underexpose gradually and then compensate?

I have some lenses with a flash bulb sync (supposedly triggers the flash earlier) but I don't have a way to trigger them. That would be interesting try otherwise, because I suspect that I could potentially get at least a visible exposure for the full sensor.
 
Yes, I have been trying to use one of those ExpoDisc WB things for that as I couldn't easily find an LCC panel in Rome. It seems to work ok for falloff but not always for colorcast. At least in LRc, which isn't necessary the best software on the market. Tbh, I'm more used to DaVinci Resolve and it just feels that C1 and LRc are far behind when it comes to color. On the other hand, DVR absolutely struggles with high MP single frames compared to any photo oriented program.

Here's a post from a while ago that may point you in the right direction regarding the plastic you need for an LCC panel: https://www.getdpi.com/forum/index.php?threads/lcc-calibration-tool-alternative.50446/#post-577308

I made my first one out of a random piece of plexiglass I had in the basement. It was a bit too opaque, but it worked.

I have done some new "research" regarding the Hasselblad X1D II. I was wondering how fast exactly is the Mq mode, like could it be just the same SW & HW implementation as the digital backs have for PC sync input. In that case I could trigger by using the mic/trigger input. Well, it's not, it's actually terribly slow. What I believe the PC sync input is doing on digital backs is that it quickly resets all lines and exposes for 1 sec or so. The shutter will be open for whatever time during that 1 sec and you get the exposure you wanted. (I know this is not how CFV backs work on HB V bodies but we are interested in something different). Anyway, this is not how the X1D II works. If I set the lens shutter to 1/2 sec then I can usually get a tiny stripe exposed on the top. Interestingly it's never a clear cut but a gradient. I suppose that this means that the sensor reset is not global but slowly rolling top down.

This is all very interesting because I can't see how they can make the exposure work properly with this sensor even with the proper PC input handling? Because X sync happens when the shuter is already open, right? Do they underexpose gradually and then compensate?

I have some lenses with a flash bulb sync (supposedly triggers the flash earlier) but I don't have a way to trigger them. That would be interesting try otherwise, because I suspect that I could potentially get at least a visible exposure for the full sensor.
 
[...] I have done some new "research" regarding the Hasselblad X1D II. I was wondering how fast exactly is the Mq mode, like could it be just the same SW & HW implementation as the digital backs have for PC sync input. In that case I could trigger by using the mic/trigger input. Well, it's not, it's actually terribly slow. What I believe the PC sync input is doing on digital backs is that it quickly resets all lines and exposes for 1 sec or so. The shutter will be open for whatever time during that 1 sec and you get the exposure you wanted. (I know this is not how CFV backs work on HB V bodies but we are interested in something different). Anyway, this is not how the X1D II works. If I set the lens shutter to 1/2 sec then I can usually get a tiny stripe exposed on the top. Interestingly it's never a clear cut but a gradient. I suppose that this means that the sensor reset is not global but slowly rolling top down.

This is all very interesting because I can't see how they can make the exposure work properly with this sensor even with the proper PC input handling? Because X sync happens when the shuter is already open, right? Do they underexpose gradually and then compensate?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but description of your setup seems quite far from how digital backs work with leaf shutter... First the digital back needs to be in a shutter mode that relinquishes shutter timing completely to the flash sync input signal. The means sensor does a reset as soon as it sees the external shutter line is closed, keep the exposure going until the external line opens, then read-out is started in the dark. And if flash sync is involved, the flash is controlled by flash sync output signal from the digital back, which usually doesn't exactly match timing of the flash sync input signal from the leaf shutter in the lens. All this is very different from ES mode on normal mirrorless bodies. In the case of Hasselblad X, the body must be in ES mode if it doesn't find something that looks like an X series leaf shutter lens in front. So with a foreign leaf shutter lens in front and mirrorless body in ES mode behind, you have two sets of shutter timing that are interacting and need to be harmonized in a configuration specific way. Oh, and once an X body is in ES mode, flash triggering signal is totally gone. So method and timing of flash sync becomes another factor in the mix.

Fun project for tinkerers I suppose... Best of luck (y)
 
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Hello Lorenz
Could I ask you for more information about using this gear? Is it worth buying, or is it better to save up for the Cambo Actus? Or maybe you have some other interesting solutions worth considering? What accessories would you recommend? I’m not sure if you saw my thread, but could you give me some advice if I decide to go for this Swebo? I’d be grateful for any information.
 
Hey Jakub,
I had the Actus Mini, but that was 10 years ago and I can´t really compare it with the Swebo. I liked the Actus, but I like the Swebo better now. But that comes with a caveat: the Swebo is much bigger. To the point I will switch to a different camera, but not for the Actus G. I opened another thread to gather some information about the alternatives, you might be interested in the read as well.

So, I am at the point where I realized that I want to use movements regularly, and the Swebo is great in that regard. I have no accuracy problems whatsoever. I also like the selection of the movements and where they are being provided. I have seen two other TCS20s here, and both do have swing added to the rear standard. I actually prefer not having that. If anything other than linear movements at the back, I would prefer tilt. But no need for that either. Especially since everything that is added comes at the price of bulk and complexity that can lead to inaccuracy.

So what can I say. Would I buy the Swebo again? Obviously not, cause I will sooner or later get a Linhof Techno. But that is not the cameras fault, it's mine. I found out what I really want in a tech cam and the Swebo helped me doing so. I will continue to use the Swebo and have a lot of fun doing that. If I was to get around by car mainly, I wouldn´t mind the relative bulk of the Swebo at all. And it comes with generous movements as well. +/- 30mm of shift and rise/fall +/-15° tilt and more swing than I will ever use.

The use of the camera with the GFX is very nice. The Fuji fits the Swebo comfortably, easy rotation from landscape to portrait, and a generous range of possible focal lenghts. It can take wideangels that work a mirrorless camera body, If that is what you want to do, then the bag bellows and recessed lensboards are necessary.

So, all in all, I can recommend the Swebo for the purpose it es made, wich for me is not hiking or biking... ;)
It handels nicely and precisely. Mechanical qualtity is really good, the bellows are well made. It lacks things like a brand identity or super well finishes surfaces, but you don´t pay for that either.
 
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Over the past 4 months I have been working with a customised version of the Swebo TCS20, built to my own specifications.
The stock camera is already a very compact and capable technical camera, but for my day‑to‑day architectural and interior work I needed something even more tailored to my way of shooting and travelling.
After discussing my requirements directly with Swebo, we ended up with a version that differs quite a bit from the standard TCS20, both in terms of dimensions and available movements.

The main issue for me was the focusing rail.

The stock rail is 25 cm long, which makes the camera surprisingly hard to transport and prevents it from fitting in many backpacks and smaller bags.
Since I never use lenses longer than a 72 mm, I simply did not need all the bellows draw offered by the standard rail, so that extra length was just dead weight and bulk.
For this reason I asked Swebo to add a shorter focusing rail of 18 cm.

This length is just enough to focus my Schneider 72 mm XL at practical distances, while at the same time allowing the entire camera to slide easily into my main work backpack and several other bags I use on location.

In daily use this single change transformed the camera from something I had to plan around into a compact tool I can carry everywhere without thinking about it.
8.jpg



The second limitation of the stock TCS20, at least for my shooting style, was the lack of rear swing.
I regularly use both front and rear movements to control perspective and plane of focus, so having swing only on the front standard would have prevented me from making many of the images I typically deliver to clients. To solve this, I asked the manufacturer to add a module from TC18 Pro that integrates perfectly with the TCS20 and gives the rear standard the swing movements I was missing.
9.jpg

With the reduced-length rail and the added rear swing, I ended up with a camera that is still relatively small and light, weighing just under 3 kg in the configuration shown in the photos.
It is compact enough to carry anywhere without special cases, yet offers the movements I need.
What makes it even more attractive is that this custom TCS20 costs roughly one third—or even less—than alternatives like the Arca‑Swiss Pico or the Cambo Actus Mini, while giving me exactly the feature set I want.

Of course, the customisations I requested do come with several drawbacks, even if, for my needs, they are acceptable and easy to work around. The most obvious limitation is that, in this configuration, it is essentially impossible to mount lenses much longer than a 72 mm and still focus to infinity.
I suspect that even a 90 mm would struggle to reach infinity focus.
Fortunately, this restriction can be managed.
Using an extended lensboard of at least 3 cm would already help, and Swebo’s shop also lists an additional extension module that further increases the available draw.
In theory, combining an extended board with that extension should make it feasible to use lenses of at least 150 mm, even though I have not tested this in practice because I currently have no need for such focal lengths.
I do not know if Swebo manufactures extended boards himself, as I simply design and 3D‑print my own, which work beautifully in day‑to‑day use.

Another side effect of the modifications is the extra height introduced by the rear swing module.
Because the rear standard has been raised to accommodate this part, the front tilt‑and‑swing module also needs to be raised to maintain proper alignment between front and rear.
This means the overall camera sits higher than a standard TCS20, which can make it slightly more awkward to fit into some shoulder bags or tighter spaces where the original version would slide in more easily.

5.jpg

A smaller but still noticeable issue concerns the lateral shift lock lever.
In its horizontal, unlocked position, the lever partially blocks the rear swing scale, which becomes annoying when working in tight spaces or when trying to read the markings accurately.
The workaround is to flip the lever into the vertical, locked position so the scale is visible, but this forces you to continuously lock and unlock the shift while working, which gets a bit tiresome over time.
It is not a deal‑breaker, but it is one of those small ergonomic compromesse that come with this particular configuration.

1.jpg2.jpg

So, am I satisfied with this modified version of the TCS20?

Yes: despite these quirks and compromises, it remains the best balance I have found so far between size, weight, movements, and price for my way of working.

It is not a perfect camera, but for my real‑world use it is a highly optimised tool that suits me better than any off‑the‑shelf alternative I have tried.

4.jpg
7.jpg
 
Thank you, guys, for a lot of valuable knowledge.

I have a purely subjective question. Do you actually enjoy working with these kinds of cameras? Would you go back to classic full-frame or medium format photography with regular lenses? What are your impressions?

Are the weight, the challenges, and the cost compensated by the image quality and the pleasure of working with them?
 
Thanks so much for this. It is very helpful as I consider taking the plunge into technical cameras, though unsure if I want to go digital or film, and that will very likely determine my equipment.

I have a Swebo macro-rail and it is very well made, but I see that communicating with Swebo is difficult because of language barriers (though I imagine I can run my message through Google translate first). But I couldn't find an email address on his website either. That would be helpful if I want to customize also.
 
Thank you, guys, for a lot of valuable knowledge.

I have a purely subjective question. Do you actually enjoy working with these kinds of cameras? Would you go back to classic full-frame or medium format photography with regular lenses? What are your impressions?

Are the weight, the challenges, and the cost compensated by the image quality and the pleasure of working with them?
For me, it’s a completely different kind of photography compared to the much more common approach with traditional cameras. It’s definitely more complex, with many more parameters to keep in mind during the shot—but even before shooting, you have to consider things like flange focal distance, which varies from lens to lens. If you’re using a mirrorless body, many wide-angle lenses simply won’t work because the camera’s flange distance prevents achieving infinity focus, and this varies by brand too—but at least you can use the in-body shutter.
But if you want to complicate things further, you can opt for a digital back, which lets you use wide-angle lenses. The downside? You lose the in-body shutter, and only on a few very expensive models do you get an electronic shutter—which, however, doesn’t work with flash. This opens up a whole new chapter: lens-mounted shutters come in different types, each varying in ways that can significantly change the handling from one lens to the next.
In order to use this type of shutter, you’ll need a dedicated cable from the lens to the back and, for using the flash, another cable from the back to the flash trigger, plus the shutter release cable for the lens.. With digital backs and wide-angle lenses, you’ll also need a test shot to create the LCC profile for correcting extreme color casts and vignetting—and it has to be done for every frame. I could go on, but I’ll stop here—I hope I haven’t just told you obvious stuff.
That said, for me, the results you get from pairing certain lenses with the movements of a technical camera are impossible to replicate with conventional gear—not just in terms of image quality, but especially the sheer fun and satisfaction of using it.

Who needs simplicity when trouble feels this good? 😊
 
Thanks so much for this. It is very helpful as I consider taking the plunge into technical cameras, though unsure if I want to go digital or film, and that will very likely determine my equipment.

I have a Swebo macro-rail and it is very well made, but I see that communicating with Swebo is difficult because of language barriers (though I imagine I can run my message through Google translate first). But I couldn't find an email address on his website either. That would be helpful if I want to customize also.
To contact them, I go through AliExpress and message the seller Shop5796905 Store via the site’s contact function. They usually respond quickly and are always very polite. The site has an automatic translation feature that allows for fairly clear conversations without too many misunderstandings. They’re serious and very reliable people based on my experience.
 
For me, it’s a completely different kind of photography compared to the much more common approach with traditional cameras. It’s definitely more complex, with many more parameters to keep in mind during the shot—but even before shooting, you have to consider things like flange focal distance, which varies from lens to lens. If you’re using a mirrorless body, many wide-angle lenses simply won’t work because the camera’s flange distance prevents achieving infinity focus, and this varies by brand too—but at least you can use the in-body shutter.
But if you want to complicate things further, you can opt for a digital back, which lets you use wide-angle lenses. The downside? You lose the in-body shutter, and only on a few very expensive models do you get an electronic shutter—which, however, doesn’t work with flash. This opens up a whole new chapter: lens-mounted shutters come in different types, each varying in ways that can significantly change the handling from one lens to the next.
In order to use this type of shutter, you’ll need a dedicated cable from the lens to the back and, for using the flash, another cable from the back to the flash trigger, plus the shutter release cable for the lens.. With digital backs and wide-angle lenses, you’ll also need a test shot to create the LCC profile for correcting extreme color casts and vignetting—and it has to be done for every frame. I could go on, but I’ll stop here—I hope I haven’t just told you obvious stuff.
That said, for me, the results you get from pairing certain lenses with the movements of a technical camera are impossible to replicate with conventional gear—not just in terms of image quality, but especially the sheer fun and satisfaction of using it.

Who needs simplicity when trouble feels this good? 😊
Thank you for the extensive description. I think we have a lot in common. I also tend to enjoy making my life a bit complicated! :)


I actually built my own back for an old Mentor Panorama camera and had to deal with synchronization issues myself. I even produced my own chemistry to shoot wet plate collodion (some of the reagents are restricted and were quite difficult to track down).


https://www.flickr.com/gp/90s/0jD0Y63RRN

I’ve always loved working with large format. However, the cost of every single frame used to discourage me from constant experimentation. What worries me most now are precisely those technical details: which lenses to pick, flange focal distances, image circles, and whether the gear will ultimately allow me to achieve my creative goals. The cost will be significant, and I feel my knowledge is still quite limited. The biggest challenge is that it's hard to find a large database of sample images for this kind of setup. Nonetheless, this change has been on my mind for years.
 
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