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thoughts on architectural photography with Fujifilm GFX, image circle and lenses

I'm a bit late for this thread. Just got my GFX 50R a few month back, I'm using the Canon 24mm TS-E adapted and the Fujifilm 32-64 which is very good but I find I need shift capavility at around 32-35. For that matter I would like to ask if anyone have used the Canon FD 35mm Tilt Shift lens on the GFX? Seems like a good alternative but haven't found any threads relating to conclusions using this combo. Many Thanks!
 

Owen

Member
I'm a bit late for this thread. Just got my GFX 50R a few month back, I'm using the Canon 24mm TS-E adapted and the Fujifilm 32-64 which is very good but I find I need shift capavility at around 32-35. For that matter I would like to ask if anyone have used the Canon FD 35mm Tilt Shift lens on the GFX? Seems like a good alternative but haven't found any threads relating to conclusions using this combo. Many Thanks!
I’m using the Pentax 645 35mm with a Kipon adapter. There’s a decent amount of shift available. The Contax 645 35 should also work well. Incidentally, the Contax lens profile in C1 works well for the Pentax too.
 

free1000

New member
I'm just setting off down this route as my aged Digital back died this week and I guessed the repair costs would be not a lot less than a Fuji 50R body.

I had a bit of a mad tear yesterday and ordered contax and H shift adapters and a Contax 35 and a Hassleblad 50 FLE. I'm hoping that these achieve acceptable quality. I was really impressed with the results on this thread, but buying old lenses that are good is challenging.

My plan is to add these 35 and 50 to my existing TSE-17 and TSE-24 and to hope that Fuji fill the hole in their prime sequence with a 30 Shift lens at some point.

I've been shooting with SK 35/47 on Aptus 75 and I would say that the best performance from the Fuji 32-64 zoom is comparable to those. So I'm hopeful.

If anyone has revised their opinions about the use of these older film lenses as a solution since the earlier posts, I'd be very interested to know. If the Hassleblad 50 does not work out, I will buy the TS-E 50, but in the case of the Contax 35 there are not a lot of other options I can see that offer reasonable shift. Certainly the Pentax 645 option is not quite sufficient for me.
 

Shashin

Well-known member
The Pentax A 35mm (manual focus lens) has a better reputation for edge sharpness than the FA 35mm version. However, it is prone to flair.

BTW, has anyone been using the GFX Actus body for architectural work?
 

rdeloe

Well-known member
I'm a bit late for this thread. Just got my GFX 50R a few month back, I'm using the Canon 24mm TS-E adapted and the Fujifilm 32-64 which is very good but I find I need shift capavility at around 32-35. For that matter I would like to ask if anyone have used the Canon FD 35mm Tilt Shift lens on the GFX? Seems like a good alternative but haven't found any threads relating to conclusions using this combo. Many Thanks!
Don't bother with the Canon FD 35mm T/S lens. I've owned two copies of this, one used on a Sony A7R and one used on a Fuji X-T2. Considering its age, it's a really nice lens. However, you will not be happy on your GFX. Even on my little Fuji X-T2 I found that other lenses were better. Believe it or not the Olympus OM 35mm f/2.8 lens was better for shift (at f/8 and f/11) than the Canon lens.

I've also owned the SMC Pentax-A 645 35mm f/3.5 twice, once on that A7R, and now for my Fuji GFX 50R. It's the widest lens I can make work on my Toyo VX23D outfit. Yes, you can get 10mm of shift on a GFX sensor. You can actually get 12mm if you want to push it. But you won't be thrilled with far shifted edge if it's supposed to have a lot of detail even at 10mm. Below 10mm it's fine.

I compared the Pentax-A to the Pentax-FA versions and chose the manual A because it's smaller and lighter, has a slightly shorter focal length than the FA version, and performed better across the whole image circle. The FA version was a bit sharper in the centre, but worse at the edges. I have not had any problems with flare and ghosting, but I use a shade.

Bottom-line: I don't think you'll find a better lens in this focal length for a GFX outfit. If you do, please let me know!
 

rdeloe

Well-known member
I’m using the Pentax 645 35mm with a Kipon adapter. There’s a decent amount of shift available. The Contax 645 35 should also work well. Incidentally, the Contax lens profile in C1 works well for the Pentax too.
I'd love to use a Contax 645 35, but how would you operate the aperture? Or would you get it to f/8 (or whatever you like to use) with another body and just leave it there?
 

Owen

Member
I'd love to use a Contax 645 35, but how would you operate the aperture? Or would you get it to f/8 (or whatever you like to use) with another body and just leave it there?
This is why I use the Pentax, it has an aperture ring. It’s also a fantastic lens.
 

Audii-Dudii

Active member
I'd love to use a Contax 645 35, but how would you operate the aperture? Or would you get it to f/8 (or whatever you like to use) with another body and just leave it there?
That's what I do when I use mine with my various FrankenKameras!

But another alternative is to have Cambo modify the lens by removing the focusing helical and replacing the electronic aperture with a mechanical one, turning it into an "Actar 35": https://cambousa.com/distagon-35-retrofit-for-cambo-actus

Of course, with the conversion costing $1075 plus shipping in addition to the cost of the lens itself, this is not a particularly cost-effective option. And especially not if one doesn't already own a Cambo Actus or modified Toyo VX23D with which to use it, because with the focusing helical removed, using it mounted directly on a GFX body will be tricky and require a custom-made lens adapter.

That said, though, this lens performs very well indeed -- especially if one is partial to the "Zeiss look," as I am -- so this option is not without merit for those who already own one and/or an Actus or VX23D to mount it on.

Of course, another Contax / Zeiss option is the Contax / Yashica 35/f2.8 PC lens, which also performs very well and Zeiss-like, and projects an image circle large enough to cover a 33x44 sensor with room to spare for a small amount of shift movement.
 

free1000

New member
Just to say that I ordered a Kipon GFX-Contax shift adapter from B&H and made certain false assumptions about how it would work. I assumed it meant 'shift' as it is commonly misused in 'tilt-shift'

These shift adapters really are shift adapters in the large format sense and only work in a horizontal axis, they cannot perform rise and fall movements.

Luckily B&H are good about returns, but I could have saved some hassle if I'd looked more carefully at the photos and not made the incorrect assumption.

I saw that Mirex adapters are referred to in earlier posts and I'll have to look into this option next. Not sure that they still make all the variations though.
 

Alan

Active member
Just to say that I ordered a Kipon GFX-Contax shift adapter from B&H and made certain false assumptions about how it would work. I assumed it meant 'shift' as it is commonly misused in 'tilt-shift'

These shift adapters really are shift adapters in the large format sense and only work in a horizontal axis, they cannot perform rise and fall movements.

Luckily B&H are good about returns, but I could have saved some hassle if I'd looked more carefully at the photos and not made the incorrect assumption.

I saw that Mirex adapters are referred to in earlier posts and I'll have to look into this option next. Not sure that they still make all the variations though.
This one? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1457107-REG/kipon_shift_contax645_gfx_tilt_shift_contax_645_to.html?
Can't you pull the locking pin on the side to rotate the shift direction?
 

rdeloe

Well-known member
All of the tilt-shift adapters available these days have their roots in the Mirex design, which allows you shift, or rise-fall, but not both at the same time. Additionally, you can have tilt and shift, or you can have swing and rise-fall, but you can't have tilt and rise-fall, which I've always found problematic because they do a kind of base tilt (meaning you have to recompose after tilting).

There are some work-arounds. With a Sony A7R-type camera, you can get some more flexibility by putting a medium format tilt-shift adapter onto a 35mm format adapter, and mounting both onto the camera. I used to shoot a Pentax 645 to Canon Mirex adapter mounted onto a Mirex Canon to Sony E adapter. This gave me the ability to combine tilt, swing, shift, rise and fall. The thing about Mirex adapters is you have to flock the inside, which is a pain.

I'm now using a Fuji GFX 50R on the back of a Toyo VX23D. It's a heavier setup, but much more flexible than messing around with tilt-shift adapters.
 

Alan

Active member
All of the tilt-shift adapters available these days have their roots in the Mirex design, which allows you shift, or rise-fall, but not both at the same time.
It's a bit of a different mindset vs. a camera with separate XY controls. You can get shift and rise simultaneously by rotating the adapter into a diagonal position. For some this is a more elegant way of positioning the lens, others will find it cumbersome to not be able to isolate the XY vectors.
 

free1000

New member
This one? https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1457107-REG/kipon_shift_contax645_gfx_tilt_shift_contax_645_to.html?
Can't you pull the locking pin on the side to rotate the shift direction?
I may be making an error, I'm away from home till Thursday evening, but when I get back I'll take a couple of shots of the adapter and maybe you can help me work out if I'm being a complete ignoramus. I've not been sleeping well so its quite possible that I'm misunderstanding this.

The adapter looks very well made so I don't want to be negging on them if I am at error here as it would be doing everyone a disservice and if I'm in error I'll happily keep this adapter anyway.

When the adapter is rotated 90 degrees so the shift axis is rise and fall/ vertical, then the aperture in the adapter is at 90 degrees to the sensor orientation. So it looks as though the image will be cropped.

I'm now wondering if this really matters though as light rays should pass through the nodal point which will be smaller than that reduced aperture.

I was possibly being confused by the fact that there is a mounting foot on the front of the adapter and this always is fixed relative to the shift axis, which means that the adapter can be used for rise and fall so long as the camera is mounted on the tripod and not the adapter.

The fixed orientation of the foot means it can only be used when shifting horizontally. If the camera is rotated when the foot is mounted, then the camera is then in portrait orientation and stitching left and right.
 
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Alan

Active member
I may be making an error, I'm away from home till Thursday evening, but when I get back I'll take a couple of shots of the adapter and maybe you can help me work out if I'm being a complete ignoramus. I've not been sleeping well so its quite possible that I'm misunderstanding this.

The adapter looks very well made so I don't want to be negging on them if I am at error here as it would be doing everyone a disservice and if I'm in error I'll happily keep this adapter anyway.

When the adapter is rotated 90 degrees so the shift axis is rise and fall/ vertical, then the aperture in the adapter is at 90 degrees to the sensor orientation. So it looks as though the image will be cropped.

I'm now wondering if this really matters though as light rays should pass through the nodal point which will be smaller than that reduced aperture.

I was possibly being confused by the fact that there is a mounting foot on the front of the adapter and this always is fixed relative to the shift axis, which means that the adapter can be used for rise and fall so long as the camera is mounted on the tripod and not the adapter.

The fixed orientation of the foot means it can only be used when shifting horizontally. If the camera is rotated when the foot is mounted, then the camera is then in portrait orientation and stitching left and right.
I've been considering these as well, so just trying to understand if they work the same as earlier Kipon/Mirex shift adapters. I hadn't seen one with a built in foot - will be interested to hear more about yours.
 

free1000

New member
I've been considering these as well, so just trying to understand if they work the same as earlier Kipon/Mirex shift adapters. I hadn't seen one with a built in foot - will be interested to hear more about yours.
I'll send you some images when I get home. I'd really like go get that to work. I have a Hassleblad 50 FLE on the way and I've ordered a Contax->Hassleblad adapter. Another 'doh' moment was when I realised I just needed a GFX to Contax adapter and then a dumb adapter ring from Contax to H. Fotodiox do one for about $60 so I ordered one.

More on Friday.
 

fotophil

Member
Well I was using the lenses at f8 and focusing in the exact center with 100% live view and focus peaking. Do you suggest another better way? I’ll do the tests again.

-Schaf
Field curvature of the TS-E Lenses requires that the edges be focused with live view instead of focus sing at the center.
 

haihan

New member
Hey guys, here's an update to my research:

The Canon 50mm TS-E is amazing even very acceptable at the corners during 12mm shift on 44x33.

Here are the nodal points with RRS:

Canon 24 TS E ii - 3.3
Canon 50 TS E - 4.6
Canon 90 TS E - 7.5

Pentax HD D FA 645 35 - 3.1

Pentax 645 55 - 5.8

Pentax 645 75 - 8.0

Pentax 645 120 - 7.0
Fujifilm GF 63 - 9.5

Fujifilm GF 32-64 - @32 5.5 / @44 5.3 / @50 5.2 / @64 5.9
 

free1000

New member
I've been considering these as well, so just trying to understand if they work the same as earlier Kipon/Mirex shift adapters. I hadn't seen one with a built in foot - will be interested to hear more about yours.
OK, I can comment with some experience of these now. My capsule review.

1) Well made adapters, I bought both the GFX->Contax and GFX->Hassleblad versions
2) They have a Arca foot mounted such that they can be used for Panorama stitching. I don't use this, but find it a useful 'handle' for rotating the shift axis if I need to do that.
3) I like the kind of metal they are made in, looks very nice, sort of titanium coloured.
4) I tried the GFX->Contax adapter with a Contax->Hassleblad adapter first. This introduced strong internal flare.
5) I then ordered the GFX->Hassleblad version and this reduced but did not eliminate the internal flare, however I can remove that with a Lee compendium lens hood (bellows) so that's fine.
6) Having discovered that the Contax lenses required pre-setting as they did not have an aperture ring, I returned the GFX->Contax adapter for a refund.

My feeling is that these are very good value for the money.

The price of the Kipon Adapter and a Hassleblad 50 FLE f4 in mint condition was about 1/2 the price of a new Canon TS-E 50mm lens. The weight of the two options is roughly the same, theres an advantage for me in having a separate adapter for the H50 and the Canon 24 as I can then swap focal lengths without swapping adapters each time.
 

free1000

New member
Hey guys, here's an update to my research:

The Canon 50mm TS-E is amazing even very acceptable at the corners during 12mm shift on 44x33.

Here are the nodal points with RRS:

Canon 24 TS E ii - 3.3
Canon 50 TS E - 4.6
Canon 90 TS E - 7.5

Pentax HD D FA 645 35 - 3.1

Pentax 645 55 - 5.8

Pentax 645 75 - 8.0

Pentax 645 120 - 7.0
Fujifilm GF 63 - 9.5

Fujifilm GF 32-64 - @32 5.5 / @44 5.3 / @50 5.2 / @64 5.9
Thats good news.

I was wondering, since your post last December showing the Pentax 35 lens have you continued to shoot with it much? I notice you mention the Pentax HD D FA above, do you find the distortion acceptable? I'm mostly concerned with how this would handle shots perpendicular to an elevation where there are a lot of straight lines that can easily show the wave distortion in this kind of optic.

In the end you preferred the FA version of that lens to the Manual A version, why was that? The A version can be purchased for a very reasonable price, so I'm tempted to give this setup a try out.
 

Owen

Member
Thats good news.

I was wondering, since your post last December showing the Pentax 35 lens have you continued to shoot with it much? I notice you mention the Pentax HD D FA above, do you find the distortion acceptable? I'm mostly concerned with how this would handle shots perpendicular to an elevation where there are a lot of straight lines that can easily show the wave distortion in this kind of optic.

In the end you preferred the FA version of that lens to the Manual A version, why was that? The A version can be purchased for a very reasonable price, so I'm tempted to give this setup a try out.

It’s ok, until Fuji get their act together and produce one of their own, but distortion is certainly noticeable. The FA version allows for a far larger ranger of movements with the Kipon adapter I use, due to the much larger rear pupil.
 
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