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X2D II 100C official FAQ

SrMphoto

Well-known member

About stabilization:

1. Each time X2D II 100C connects to Phocus Mobile 2, it obtains current latitude/longitude position. Using location and compass information compensates for Earth's rotation effects on stabilisation. We recommend connecting to Phocus Mobile 2 before shooting to help the stabilisation system obtain latest geographic information, valid for 4 hours. When location changes significantly, obtain new position information.

2. Stabilisation improvement has limits; the camera still needs to be held stably.

3. After extended use, rest the camera on a stable surface for a period for better stabilisation performance.
 

philHolland

New member
Just to drop this stuff here as it's relevant, I'll reiterate a few things things worth doing on first setup that I stated at Fred Miranda's site.

- Download and update firmware for camera and lenses
- Leave the camera powered on for about 5 minutes and run a Sensor Calibration (first one took 17 minutes for me, longer than the previous model btw)
- Spend a bit of time customizing the Joystick Click, Custom Function Button, and Dial Clicks to fit your way of working

If you are a former or current X2D owner and have the new model now, bare in mind the new display is a different white point, D65, and will likely be a bit different than you're used to. I have found it pretty accurate, but still doing technical tests.

HDR Mode is as of September 1st 2025 not available in Manual Focus Mode, this is very likely a bug and will be fixed.

Agree on stabilization. The technology + your specific technique and shooting method will be the recipe for success. I've pulled off some crazy long exposures, but in particular minimize drifting up/down/left/right, swaying forward/backwards, or overt rotation and you'll be pleasantly surprised at what can be done.

I'm investigating extreme long exposures and how the calibration works for these scenarios. If a cap is on the camera I'm not exactly seeing a flat field black, but will report of anything notable about this.
 

SrMphoto

Well-known member
HDR Mode is as of September 1st 2025 not available in Manual Focus Mode, this is very likely a bug and will be fixed.
I think that this is works-as-intended. HDR mode utilizes special metering and, for some reason, cannot be used in M mode. Would like to know precisely why.
 

chriswebb

Well-known member
Agree on stabilization. The technology + your specific technique and shooting method will be the recipe for success. I've pulled off some crazy long exposures, but in particular minimize drifting up/down/left/right, swaying forward/backwards, or overt rotation and you'll be pleasantly surprised at what can be done.

I'm investigating extreme long exposures and how the calibration works for these scenarios. If a cap is on the camera I'm not exactly seeing a flat field black, but will report of anything notable about this.

Hey there, Phil! Good to see you here. Any findings you are willing share would be invaluable given your technical experience.
 

vjbelle

Well-known member
Echoing what has been stated, however for critical and difficult subjects the X2D and X2D II have focus peaking that works both zoomed out and zoomed in.
Totally agree as that is how I focus my 907X 100C. It is very accurate but it would be even more helpful if live view magnification could extend further than 100% pixels.

Victor B.
 

Ai_Print

Active member
Echoing what has been stated, however for critical and difficult subjects the X2D and X2D II have focus peaking that works both zoomed out and zoomed in.
Having peaking at 100% has made all the difference for me. 200% would be nice but I am managing without it now.
 

peterm1

Active member

About stabilization:

1. Each time X2D II 100C connects to Phocus Mobile 2, it obtains current latitude/longitude position. Using location and compass information compensates for Earth's rotation effects on stabilisation. We recommend connecting to Phocus Mobile 2 before shooting to help the stabilisation system obtain latest geographic information, valid for 4 hours. When location changes significantly, obtain new position information.

2. Stabilisation improvement has limits; the camera still needs to be held stably.

3. After extended use, rest the camera on a stable surface for a period for better stabilisation performance.
Regarding point number 1, will this enhanced stabilization still remain in effect if my X2D II goes to sleep (not power down) or if I close the app? In other words, does the information get transferred to the camera for that four hour period and stay in the camera so I can just "set it and forget it" when I go out shooting without having to worry about the continued connection to the app or the camera going to sleep? I will usually tap the power button to put the camera to sleep when I am out shooting to save battery.

I also have a question regarding HDR files - I am shooting RAW plus HEIC since I understand I can't just shoot RAW alone to get HDR files at present. When I import the files, I assume I can just import the RAW files and dispense with the HEIC files and retain the ability to edit the RAW files in LR in HDR and then export to JPEG HDR if I want to share certain HDR files online? I am curious if many people will now start using HEIC files in addition to RAW where before they would just shoot RAW.

Thanks, Peter
 

algrove

Well-known member
I was using RAW+HEIC at first since it was the default setting. Now I am back to using RAW only and 16 bit. If I want HDR I will just set focus bracketing to 3 frames and 2 stops.
 

ThdeDude

Well-known member
Are I am correct that no in-camera exposure averaging, like IQ4's automatic frame averaging, is available?
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
Correct, no Frame averaging. Focus Bracketing and Exposure Bracketing are there as before with the X2D.

On the issue of HDR, I believe the HDR that is being created by the MKII, is not the same as normal say 3 stop HDR worked in LR or similar programs. It's a single file that can only be taken advantage of with a HDR display, M1-M4 MacBook for example. The other method of HDR creating, traditional I don't believe will create the same effect. The HDR files from the MKII (and Sigma BF) are unique. Panasonic also I believe has a similar output offering, but they don't call it HDR. The HDR images created in camera will not IMO be the best for printing (unless on metal), as the gamut of a printer cannot begin to capture the same effect. Metal prints can give a print a somewhat similar look, but still the DR ranges just can't be made with current printing. So the benefit is for the viewing of the image, on a Retina display, iPad, iPhone, MacBook Pro etc. And supposedly imaging apps, are now supporting this HDR display vs the SDR, like instagram.

Paul
 

peterm1

Active member
Correct, no Frame averaging. Focus Bracketing and Exposure Bracketing are there as before with the X2D.

On the issue of HDR, I believe the HDR that is being created by the MKII, is not the same as normal say 3 stop HDR worked in LR or similar programs. It's a single file that can only be taken advantage of with a HDR display, M1-M4 MacBook for example. The other method of HDR creating, traditional I don't believe will create the same effect. The HDR files from the MKII (and Sigma BF) are unique. Panasonic also I believe has a similar output offering, but they don't call it HDR. The HDR images created in camera will not IMO be the best for printing (unless on metal), as the gamut of a printer cannot begin to capture the same effect. Metal prints can give a print a somewhat similar look, but still the DR ranges just can't be made with current printing. So the benefit is for the viewing of the image, on a Retina display, iPad, iPhone, MacBook Pro etc. And supposedly imaging apps, are now supporting this HDR display vs the SDR, like instagram.

Paul
Yes - the difference between printing and display creates a bit of a dilemma for me. While I would like to take advantage of HDR to show HDR images on compliant displays, at the same time I sell prints, so do I really want to show images that I can't create in print when a client wants to buy a print? It was already hard enough getting my prints to match what I see on my screen before - now it would be an impossibility. So maybe I will reserve using HDR just for images I know I won't offer for sale in print form....
 

SrMphoto

Well-known member
I was using RAW+HEIC at first since it was the default setting. Now I am back to using RAW only and 16 bit. If I want HDR I will just set focus bracketing to 3 frames and 2 stops.
You are talking about different types of HDR. Hasselblad's HDR, also known as Ultra HDR, utilizes the higher dynamic range of newer displays to produce a higher-quality image from a single shot.
Bracketing and merging is something else.
 

SrMphoto

Well-known member
Regarding point number 1, will this enhanced stabilization still remain in effect if my X2D II goes to sleep (not power down) or if I close the app? In other words, does the information get transferred to the camera for that four hour period and stay in the camera so I can just "set it and forget it" when I go out shooting without having to worry about the continued connection to the app or the camera going to sleep? I will usually tap the power button to put the camera to sleep when I am out shooting to save battery.

I also have a question regarding HDR files - I am shooting RAW plus HEIC since I understand I can't just shoot RAW alone to get HDR files at present. When I import the files, I assume I can just import the RAW files and dispense with the HEIC files and retain the ability to edit the RAW files in LR in HDR and then export to JPEG HDR if I want to share certain HDR files online? I am curious if many people will now start using HEIC files in addition to RAW where before they would just shoot RAW.

Thanks, Peter
I would avoid HEIF and use JPEG instead. From the FAQ:
HDR HEIF only supports HDR display on X2D II 100C and in Phocus. iPhone/iPad Photos app and third-party software such as Adobe Photoshop/Adobe Camera Raw do not support HDR HEIF highlight display.

This is how I read the FAQ:
- Each time Phocus Mobile 2 connects to the camera, it passes location information (location access must be allowed for the app). That information is valid for four hours, regardless of whether the camera is on or off. If four hours pass or if you change the location significantly, reconnect the app to the camera to update the latest coordinates.
- It is interesting that a periodic resting of the camera on a stable surface helps as well.
 

algrove

Well-known member
Yes, I know. I use the latest Apple 32" monitor so can see subtle changes to images. Frankly I understand the jpeg significance but I use only RAW at 16bit so I would prefer to stay with RAW.

Is this site slow for the last few days or what?
 

SrMphoto

Well-known member
Yes, I know. I use the latest Apple 32" monitor so can see subtle changes to images. Frankly I understand the jpeg significance but I use only RAW at 16bit so I would prefer to stay with RAW.

Is this site slow for the last few days or what?
I need to understand better what happens with HDR (metering, blinkies, histogram) before I decide whether to shoot in raw or HDR mode. However, I will continue to shoot in 14-bit raw, as I have not seen any advantage to 16-bit, but the blackout is longer with 16.
 
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