The GetDPI Photography Forum

Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!

More Fun with Large Format Film Images!

donbga

Member
+1! I love that image. The detail is superb, even in this size image. The full res scan must be amazing. More details on camera, lens, film, scan???

Gary
Thanks Gary, Lloyd, and Jim. I've not shown this one around much though the actual shot was made last year.

First the technical specs:

Camera: Chamonix 4x5N-1
Lens: 150 mm f/5.6 Symmar-N (or S I really never can remember :) )
Exposure: About 1/4 s @ f/16
Film:Fujicolor Pro 160 S rated @ 125; no filtration at exposure

The camera was set about 18 to 20 inches off the ground on a slopping drive way at the scene. The location is in a old section of Atlanta which is a transitional area that has become a new center of art studios, design houses, galleries, and professional offices; an extension of what is known as the photo district.

The image is part of a series that I've been working over the last couple of years or so, some in B&W and some in color. Right now images that are printed as inkjet prints will eventually be reworked for tri-color gum for color (or pigment over palladium) or for mono one of the iron based processes such as gum over palladium, kallitype or straight carbon prints - who knows right now.

In this series my approach has been to make 2 to 3 exposures on 4x5 film for later stitching in PS. Once I conceptualize the composition I setup the camera and make multiple exposures at the same settings by shifting the front standard right, left and usually a exposure with no shift. This gives me plenty of overlap for high quality stitching. In a sense this motif is an a variation of view camera triptychs or dipytichs. In some compositions I make the decision at the scene about how the final comp should look which means that some cropping will take place in post. This decision is make at exposure time not later. I want to be as precise as possible with my framing, though I will allow for some wasted film space to be cropped later if the need is required because of limitation of camera placement, movements, etc. I don't go out with a preconcieved idea per se but I look at scenes with this possible treatment in mind. Some compositions are failures.

The scans are on a Howetech 4000 drum scanner at 2000 spi for each sheet. Thanks to Don Hutton (who was with me at the time this shot was made), my good friend here in Atlanta who does the scanning for me.

The final image dimensions after stitching: 7815 x 13420 ppi @ 2000 ppi x 16 bits.

Post processing the shot required a *LOT* of masks to adjust the color of various sections of the image. This was after making a global color correction neutralizing the midtones, specifically the grey gas meters. There is also a small section of the image that is syntisized in PS; or to put it another way the image presented is NOT a 100% literal translation of the scene photographed. Can you spot it? I hope not. I try to make my PS composites look natural and unmanipulated. My intent is to produce a surreal view of the scene without the viewer being aware of it. In B&W I'll often do this with local tonal manipulations.

I use Nik Sharpener Pro 3.0 for sharpening final output size to inkjet, the image you see here hasn't been sharpened. I've found that drum scanned images require roughly 50% LESS sharpening than say with digital captures for printed output. I proof on Ilford Fiber Gold and do large prints on River River Aurora White. I also really love Harmon Fiber Gloss and may commit to printing a small portfolio of large prints on that paper someday - Kaching!$$$

Okay end of brain dump, I'll post a small unedited version for you to compare later.

Thanks for looking,

Don
 
Last edited:

Tex

Subscriber Member
Don, is there a reason for using multiple 4x5 images for stitching instead of utilizing a 8x10 (assuming that you have both)?

Thanks for posting!
 

donbga

Member
Don, is there a reason for using multiple 4x5 images for stitching instead of utilizing a 8x10 (assuming that you have both)?
I sold my 8x10 equipment a couple of years ago, mainly because I didn't care for the camera - Calumet C1. And besides I ended up shooting with the 5x7 back most of the time anyway. I know Christopher Burkett uses the C1 as others do but the camera wasn't working for me. I've borrowed other wooden 8x10 field cameras and like those better.

I like having a light 4x5 like the Chamonix, all of my lenses probably weight twice as much as the camera at least or maybe more. I do pine for a Chamonix 5x7 and I'm not sure I'll ever return to working with an 8x10.

I became slightly disabled this year due to a foot operation so that is a factor as well. Looking at the 8x10 viewfinder is wonderful and very seductive but carting 8x10 film holders and the associated gear don't provide for spontaneity (can you have that with a view camera?) that one has with 4x5 or even 5x7. And with 5x7 should one choose that format, the image quality is just about as good as 8x10.

But back to the crux of your question. No doubt the 8x10 is wonderful but for me I've become very comfy working like I do. Drum scanning or scanning on a flatbed - 8x10 film is a chore. I want to enlarge my images not make contact prints. Working with a digitized image affords me with creative options that I wouldn't have other wise. This non-traditional approach of course will make some grind their teeth! :)

Additionally I'm not clear about what is going to happen long term with 8x10 film production. The stuff is really getting expensive! I know that expending 2 to 3 sheets of film on a shot isn't a whole lot cheaper, but I don't go out and do these for every scene.

And oh yeah 8x10 film is a bit more difficult to process though not too much more.


Scanning makes alternative processes printing more manageable though there is no doubt that a palladium or carbon print made from a large negative has presence that digi-negs can't quite match.

Also I might mention that I shoot with DSLRs and smaller roll film cameras in a similar fashion stitching scenes in PS. Not like large format but using smaller cameras keeps me busy making images when time and circumstance don't allow view camera photography.

I'l post another big shot soon.

Thanks,

Don
 

donbga

Member
As promised here is the initial version of the yellow fireplug shot after stitching in PS. This was the pilot image from scans created with an Epson 4990.

Also I should probably mention that some of you sharp eyed viewers picked up on the vignetting at the top of the image due to the amount of front rise I used. I didn't feel the need to correct it in PS.

Also I need to correct a mistake I made in a previous post, the drum scanner used is a Howtek 4500.

And yeah my approach is a bit quirky and arcane. :)

Thanks for looking,

Don
 

viablex1

Active member
are you using a betterlight? I will let the pros like Jim ,Jack, RobOutlaw etc critique but damn that second one really an eye catcher for my layman eyes!!!
 

Corlan F.

Subscriber Member
Very very nice Alex.
Love even the first shot, which gives a live feel from the customer perspective.

Tones are rich, lights smooth.
The place looks great -and not exactly cheap.

Btw, if you shot some with your D3X on this session, it'b be interesting to see them (Nikon section?)... :)
 

JimCollum

Member
Betterlight, Rodenstock 65mm




Betterlight, Schneider 150mm



Betterlight, Schneider 210mm




Betterlight, Schneider 210mm



Betterlight, Rodenstock 65mm
 
Top