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More Fun with Large Format Film Images!

chrism

Well-known member
Chamonix 045N-2, Rodenstock Apo-Sironar N 210mm/f5.6, Ilford Hp5+, Rodinal stand, Hasselblad X1 scan:



Chris
 

richardman

Well-known member
Another portrait of my Long Suffering Wife, standing in for a test shot again. Testing of the Shanghai 100 film, 16:15 in Harvey 777, taken at ISO 100, but I think I need to set it to ISO50.

Gold Dot Dagor 14" Chamonix F1.

 

chrism

Well-known member
Chamonix 045N-2, Rodenstock Apo-Sironar N 210mm/f5.6, HP5+, Rodinal stand, Hasselblad X1 scan:



Chris
 

richardman

Well-known member
Herb and his wife (sorry I didn't get the spelling of her name...) graciously spent a couple hours with me yesterday, drinking tea and sharing some stories. Herb is a local member of the Leica User Group. He is 92 years old, so it is fitting that the first portrait is with the Cooke PS945, the modern lens based on an optical formula from the 1920 Pinkham and Smith. You can see tiny Fuji he is currently using, while waiting for his M9 to come back from Leica Service:




This portrait of both of them was done on the real 1920s 7" Cooke. It flares a bit with the windows light from the left but still makes a good image, especially with some post processing:

 

chrism

Well-known member
I tried Donald Quall's homebrew monobath (HC-110 US concentrate 16ml, household ammonia 50ml, Ilford Rapid Fixer 10ml, water 180ml, warm to 24-26º and insert negatives, don't agitate and leave for at least six minutes. It is said you can turn on the light at two minutes - I didn't).

So, 256ml of solution made and placed in a small plastic Tupperware-type box (I thought my 10x8 trays would result in too shallow a depth of solution) Negatives developed separately, one after the other. My Paterson triple timer isn't very reliable, and when I had waited in the darkness for what was at least six minutes I used my phone as a flashlight and saw that it hadn't even started the timer when I pressed the button. So I washed it and it came out a bit contrasty but OK. Very fine grain for HP5+.



Chris
 

chrism

Well-known member
First try with a paper negative. Use Ilford Multigrade RC paper and Ilford Multigrade developer. I rated it at ISO 3, but would have been better at 12 given how quickly it developed.



Chris
 

chrism

Well-known member
I wondered if by developing the paper in Diafine I might get a little speed boost (I didn't) or whether it would tame the contrast (it didn't). Oh well.



Comparison shot using FP4+ in Don Quall's monobath:



Conclusion: shan't bother with Diafine for this purpose!
 

AlanS

Well-known member
Chris, I understand that pre-flashing helps with the contrast. Not something (paper negs. that is) I have tried but there is a lot of info on LFP.
 

chrism

Well-known member
I did try that once, by holding a sheet of white paper in front of the lens and making a 1/400 exposure at f22. That was the occasion when my cut down paper negative caught the dark slide as I put it back in. I flipped the film holder and repeated the process. When I took the lens off the camera to put it away I was surprised to see the first piece of paper sitting in the bellows, and realised the second exposure would also be useless as a result. I didn't bother again, at least, not yet. Since I'm scanning and inverting these images, I can turn down the contrast in LR and it does a fair job.

In a few weeks I'll be trying to repeat it all with 10x8.

Chris
 

chrism

Well-known member
Today's paper negative:



This is a curious little chair. It belonged to my grandparents, and back in the days when I could sit in it (it's only 12" across) it hadn't been recovered in velvet. You can just make out a circular depression in the seat where there is a round hole. Originally a bowl could be placed in the hole—it's a late Victorian potty! No doubt the rocking motion helped the motion......!

Chris
 

AlanS

Well-known member
Cheer up Chris! you'll sort out the contrast along the way :) I like a bit of contrast myself..
MPP,90mm Angulon, FP4 HC110...


 
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