shakeshuck
Member
Not sure if this is the right part of the forum, but...
I am contemplating getting a body for use with my telescope and for attaching to a 5x4 lens panel to try my hand at stitching. My 'scope won't focus close enough to allow a DSLR to be used, but I should be OK with a mirrorless body.
I started to wonder if there was any particular body that would be better for stitching than others. Some of the parameters I came up with were:
1) Sensor size/Flange distance/Mount internal diameter.
Which would be the best system/format to use? I am thinking along the lines of achieving the most movement; which system allows greatest sensor visibility when shifted? I am struggling to find data related to bayonet sizes. Maybe I just haven't looked in the right place yet!
Is this even relevant? Does the colour shift caused by the microprisms come into effect far before vignetting becomes a problem?
2) Related to point 1, to get the best angles it would need as thin a grip as possible so it can be mounted as close to the lens board as it can. The smaller an extension tube I can get away with the better.
3) Resolution isn't really important; I'll be using film lenses anyway. Perhaps bigger pixels would be more appropriate.
Any recommendations?
Am I overthinking the whole thing and I should just get on with it?
I am contemplating getting a body for use with my telescope and for attaching to a 5x4 lens panel to try my hand at stitching. My 'scope won't focus close enough to allow a DSLR to be used, but I should be OK with a mirrorless body.
I started to wonder if there was any particular body that would be better for stitching than others. Some of the parameters I came up with were:
1) Sensor size/Flange distance/Mount internal diameter.
Which would be the best system/format to use? I am thinking along the lines of achieving the most movement; which system allows greatest sensor visibility when shifted? I am struggling to find data related to bayonet sizes. Maybe I just haven't looked in the right place yet!
Is this even relevant? Does the colour shift caused by the microprisms come into effect far before vignetting becomes a problem?
2) Related to point 1, to get the best angles it would need as thin a grip as possible so it can be mounted as close to the lens board as it can. The smaller an extension tube I can get away with the better.
3) Resolution isn't really important; I'll be using film lenses anyway. Perhaps bigger pixels would be more appropriate.
Any recommendations?
Am I overthinking the whole thing and I should just get on with it?