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Thread: To 6-bit code or not

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    To 6-bit code or not

    Hi, I have a 35 lux ASPH and a 50 Noct that I will be using with a M8.2. Both of which I've owned for quite some time now so they are ot 6-bit coded. Is it worth spending the $175 per lens to send the Leica for 6-bit coding or not if I will be using with the M8.2. The shooting condition will be all varieties from indoor to outdoors and different lighting condition. So it will be for general use.

    Thanks for any advise.

    Vince

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    Senior Member thrice's Avatar
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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    Shoot them and decide if there's a potential benefit, shoot some uniform colour subjects and you should see if coding is necessary for you or not.

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    HI Vince and Welcome
    I think that if you can bear to be rid of them, the answer is always YES. On the other hand you can easily code them by hand with a sharpie - it lasts for weeks, easy to 'touch up' and does the job just as well.

    All the best

    Just this guy you know

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    I was actually able to code the 35 with a Sharpie but it seems to last only for one use. The 50 Noct however is a different issue. I can't seem to get it to read the code. I think it is because of a screw that is in the code area.

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    I had my 35 Summilux ASPH coded by DAG ($95). For indoor use, the coding made a big difference in color uniformity.

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    hmm, I should give Don a call if he only charges $95.00. Not bad at all.

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    I wonder if the 50 Noct will have that big an impact as the 35.

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    your mileage might vary but personally, I don't see the need of 6 bit coding for focal length less than 50mm, or even 35. To put it another way, I can't tell the difference in the final pictures

    35 lux asph non-coded -



    35 lux asph coded -


    granted, these photos are of different subjects, settings and all.

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    Quote Originally Posted by a_summarita View Post
    your mileage might vary but personally, I don't see the need of 6 bit coding for focal length less than 50mm, or even 35. To put it another way, I can't tell the difference in the final pictures
    Nice pictures
    I agree that you can't always tell the difference - especially over 50mm.

    The point really is to be able to keep the UV/IR settings the same in the menu, and to be able to tell which lens you were using in the exif information.

    I used a coding kit for the manual coding - it seems to work well, and I've found that it lasts for more than a month . . . . so, if you 'top it up' at the beginning of each month it isn't an issue.

    Just this guy you know

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    The point really is to be able to keep the UV/IR settings the same in the menu, and to be able to tell which lens you were using in the exif information.
    This. If usability is your concern, then by all means do it. Accurate exif info is important for many people.

    But I wouldn't expect magic sprinkling on your images just by 6-bit coding your lens. It does help improve the vignetting problem on my ultra wide VC 15mm but other than that...

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    Nice pictures. If the lens are not 6-bit coded, do I benefit from putting on a UV/IR cut filter still? In your picture without the 6-bit coded lens, did you use a UV/IR cut filter?

  12. #12
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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    6 bit coding and UV/IR filter solve different problems

    6 bit coding will not help you eliminate the infamous purple black problem. Yes, I use the filter on all my M lens (unless someone wants to donate to my M9 fund :P)

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    I am currently without a M8 body so I am going by memory on this but isn't there a setting in the camera that states the lens is with a UV/IR filter and isn't that also related to the lens having the 6 bit?

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    Quote Originally Posted by a_summarita View Post
    your mileage might vary but personally, I don't see the need of 6 bit coding for focal length less than 50mm, or even 35. To put it another way, I can't tell the difference in the final pictures

    granted, these photos are of different subjects, settings and all.
    If you shoot the lens coded with your two non-coded images, the color rendition will be different. For indoor use, using coded option will remove the green tint cast at the out edges of the images.

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    I am lazy and have a bad memory so I dont want to have to go into the menue for certain lenses and have auto for others.
    Thats why I prefer coded if possible. Have few uncoded lenses but only those which I either use seldomly or which can not be coded. (135mm for example)

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    Get the M-Coder Kit from Match Technical - the marks the pens they provide make are pretty durable, and the wheel is a great aid in getting the coding right in the first place. Just take then pen with you in the field and re-apply if necessary.

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    Quote Originally Posted by a_summarita View Post
    This. If usability is your concern, then by all means do it. Accurate exif info is important for many people.
    That's only part of my point.
    Thomas has it
    The real point is that you need to turn off the coding in the menu if you're using non-coded lenses. This is fine with your nice uncoded Nocti, until you put your wonderful 24 'lux on and forget to turn it back on again . . . and have a huge batch of badly damaged photos


    Quote Originally Posted by a_summarita View Post
    But I wouldn't expect magic sprinkling on your images just by 6-bit coding your lens. It does help improve the vignetting problem on my ultra wide VC 15mm but other than that...
    Well - it may not add magic sprinkling having it, but it certainly takes it away from many wider lenses if you don't have it.

    Just this guy you know

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    Senior Member Peter Klein's Avatar
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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    My M8 experience is mostly like Jono's, with one small difference. I have coded all my 35mm and 28mm lenses. My 50s and 90s are not coded. I leave the UV/IR setting in the menus all the time. Works fine.

    Coding the 28mm and wider lenses is a must. Coding the 35mm is a good idea--you may not notice the slightly cooler corners under most conditions, but you will be better off with coding. With most 50s, it really doesn't matter on the M8, and does matter on the M9. With the Noctilux, it probably does matter, because that lens vignettes a lot, and dealing with both brightness vignetting and slight cyan shift in the corners is complex.

    There is some anecdotal evidence that if you send your lenses to Leica for coding, they might come back with the focus somewhat off. They take your old mount of and give you a new one, and sometimes have not adequately readjusted the lenses to digital M tolerances. I don't know if this is a thing of the past, or if it still happens. I always use DAG for my lens adjustments. He adjusts your lenses to a known "good" M8.

    You should always use a UV/IR filter on your lenses, coded or not. Otherwise, you get magenta synthetic black fabrics, overly ruddy skin in tungsten light, and yellowish foliage in sunlight. You also get less sharp pictures, as each picture has a slightly unsharp IR component overlaying the sharper visual light component. Some people like that look in B&W, or like to play endless games with color correction. I don't.

    I use the M-coder kit for some lenses that I didn't want to send away. It works fine. If there is a screw in the coding area, you can cover it with white nail polish, then add a black line if necessary. Some M-coder kits are slightly off in alignment. But once you discover which direction it is "off," you can simply thicken the black marks in the opposite direction, and all's well.

    Hope this is useful!
    --Peter

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    First off, thanks to all who have responded. I just called DAG and he told me that it will take 3 weeks at $115 each lens. Since I am without a body right now anyway (anyone selling a M8 Silver with upgrade or M8.2 silver?), I can spare the 3 week so the lens will be off to DAG this week.

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    Quote Originally Posted by VINCET View Post
    First off, thanks to all who have responded. I just called DAG and he told me that it will take 3 weeks at $115 each lens. Since I am without a body right now anyway (anyone selling a M8 Silver with upgrade or M8.2 silver?), I can spare the 3 week so the lens will be off to DAG this week.
    I'm sure it's a decision you won't regret. . . . but of a no-brainer really

    Just this guy you know

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    So, as I am still learning to use my M9, If I decide to purchase a non coded 50mm lens, I better send it in, or use the sharpie?
    How long does DAG usually take?

    Steven
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  22. #22
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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    Quote Originally Posted by kuau View Post
    How long does DAG usually take?
    Long.

    He quoted me 1 month for my Canon .95 conversion and it is still with him after 3. I think when he says '3 weeks to do the coding' it actually means 'when I get the time to finally start working on it, it will take 3 weeks.'

    Don't get me wrong; Don is a great guy and the quality of his work needs no further reconfirmation. But he is kinda swarmed right now (always is).

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    Quote Originally Posted by jonoslack View Post
    That's only part of my point.
    Thomas has it
    The real point is that you need to turn off the coding in the menu if you're using non-coded lenses. This is fine with your nice uncoded Nocti, until you put your wonderful 24 'lux on and forget to turn it back on again . . . and have a huge batch of badly damaged photos
    huge batch of badly damaged photos??? can you elaborate?

    i have exactly one single lens coded. period. and i swap them sometimes, back and forth, and don't always remember to turn on/off the recognition. and i honestly can't tell the difference if i have or haven't.

    you warned me that i'd need the UV/IR filters and i did and do -- those do make a difference in clarity, imo. but coding??? really?

    (as for knowing which lens -- i make a notation when i import the card what lens i used and that's that. just like film, no big deal. unless you're lazy.)

    maybe i don't notice because most of my photos are destined for b/w? maybe because i don't have one of the fancy-dancy new lenses where it makes a difference? maybe because my C1 profiles (Jamie Roberts) are so good?

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    I hand-coded the following lenses with a dremel myself:
    CV35 1.4
    summicron 50mm
    summilux 75mm
    tele-elmarit thin 90mm

    I took my time, and the whole job was about 2-3 hours including marking, drilling, testing, and cleaning up. The results aren't as pretty as having it done professionally (especially the 75/1.4 -- the mark overlaps a screw and it really looks like a hatchet job), but they all register perfectly and consistently.

    Resale value was of no concern as I have no intentions of ever selling these lenses. That said, the 50/1.0 I recently bought used was already coded. This is the one lens that I would have considered sending in.

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    Re: To 6-bit code or not

    i favor having coded lenses for current use--and it seems to help resale quite a bit. the problem for me would be NOT wanting to send a lens off to get it coded. i fear it'd take a long time ...

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