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Leica M8 IR-Compatibility Lens listing: IR hotspot or not
- Thread starter JimCollum
- Start date
robsteve
Subscriber
You can test for hotspots by shooting an evenly lit wall on an overcast day. To emphasize the hotspot, boost the contast to 100% and boost the blue channels when converting to B&W.
Here is a test I made today of my 35mm Summicron ASPH. It has a hotspot.
Of my lenses these have hotspots:
24mm ASPH
35mm Summicron ASPH
19mm R (latest version)
These two did not have hotspots:
50mm Summicron-M
50mm Noctilux
Here is a test I made today of my 35mm Summicron ASPH. It has a hotspot.
Of my lenses these have hotspots:
24mm ASPH
35mm Summicron ASPH
19mm R (latest version)
These two did not have hotspots:
50mm Summicron-M
50mm Noctilux
robsteve
Subscriber
Here is the Noctilux shot with the 093 filter, which only passes IR light. With some experimenting I found that most lenses needed the point of focus found by the rangefinder shifted to the f8 DOF scale mark. Using this, the Noctilux was still pretty sharp, even if shot at f1.2.
This was shot at f8. Not the best picture, just from my backyard to test my lenses and focus.
This was shot at f8. Not the best picture, just from my backyard to test my lenses and focus.
W
wilsonlaidlaw
Guest
Here is one with a 35 ASPH Summilux and 092 filter. Looks like no hotspot to me - what do others think?
Wilson
Wilson
F
fefe
Guest
I have a hotspot on the 35 cron asph in IR, but that doesn't prevent me from taking pictures with it as it is not too strong
jaapv
Subscriber Member
I find the Summaron 35/3.5 an excellent IR lens. In general I have the impression older lenses perform better for IR.
For UV only old lenses are usable, for instance the Summarit 1.5/50 or a Jupiter, unless one wants to get into the specialty lenses.
Plus- the IR focussing mark, which is missing on most modern lenses, is exactly at the 5.6 DOF mark.
For UV only old lenses are usable, for instance the Summarit 1.5/50 or a Jupiter, unless one wants to get into the specialty lenses.
Plus- the IR focussing mark, which is missing on most modern lenses, is exactly at the 5.6 DOF mark.
R
roey
Guest
No hotspot:
CV 50mm 1.5 Nokton
Leica 75 2.0 APO Summicron
Hotspot:
Leica 28 2.0 ASPH Summicron
This one was taken with the Nokton and a B+W 093 filter:
CV 50mm 1.5 Nokton
Leica 75 2.0 APO Summicron
Hotspot:
Leica 28 2.0 ASPH Summicron
This one was taken with the Nokton and a B+W 093 filter:
woodyspedden
New member
etrigan63
Active member
I just ordered a Hoya R72 for my Zeiss 21mm/2.8. I have a B&W 92 for my CV Nokton 40mm but I've been having trouble getting the conversions done right. I am trying to get the "white trees/blue skies" effect with no success. I usually just convert to B&W. Can I get some pointers on how to achieve that effect?
V
Vivek
Guest
Carlos,
Start with setting the WB to incandescent on camera (this is helpful with metering as well).
Next, you could use curves (middle dropper) to set the neutral area.
Adjust hue.
Use selective colors.
There are many variables within the previous 3 steps. You need to figure them out after a bit of playing around and stick to it for a given effect and for a given lighting condition (major factor).
Should you need any further assistance do not hesitate to drop me a line.
Start with setting the WB to incandescent on camera (this is helpful with metering as well).
Next, you could use curves (middle dropper) to set the neutral area.
Adjust hue.
Use selective colors.
There are many variables within the previous 3 steps. You need to figure them out after a bit of playing around and stick to it for a given effect and for a given lighting condition (major factor).
Should you need any further assistance do not hesitate to drop me a line.
etrigan63
Active member
M8 does not have incandescent. Can you give me a specific temperature?
If you have c1, you might start with 800 and -54,
One other way is to use a white plastic sheet or an expodisk and set the WB to "manual", shoot through the expodisk to set the wb.
You may have to fiddle with the ev (try -1) also.
-bob