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Thread: Coder Kit ???

  1. #1
    Senior Member ecliffordsmith's Avatar
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    Coder Kit ???

    Hi All,

    Perhaps I have been on my own planet a little longer than usual of late but I just stumbled across this.

    http://robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp...11&P=Coder-Kit

    Does this work? Is this old news?

    Sounds pretty handy to me, and non destructive!

  2. #2
    Workshop Member glenerrolrd's Avatar
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    Re: Coder Kit ???

    I bought this coder kit and have been somewhat disappointed . While it appears "goof proof" ,my experience has been that its still quite a bit of trial and error. There may be some simple "best practices" that make it easy(please) . I tried using it on three different lenses and only one really worked. I don t change my lenses much ,because I use two bodies ,so its not a wear issue. I am sure it can be made to work ;but , the value of the kit should be to make it simple.

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    Senior Member stephengilbert's Avatar
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    Re: Coder Kit ???

    I tried a different version of a decoder template, and found it didn't work. I'd recommend having John Milich mill the mounting flange. You end up with precisely located recesses just like Leica uses, and can put paint in them for a permanent and neat looking fix. I used one of John's LTM flanges and it worked perfectly.

    Steve

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    Re: Coder Kit ???

    There are other threads on this. The net seems to be that the kit works but each unit needs a little calibration. I have coded several lenses successfully with it, and the markings are holding up under occasional changes. The calibration step is simple. Get your hands on a Leica-coded lens and put the M-coder template down. See how to hold it so that the slots in the template line up as close as possible to the Leica marks, and remember the offset remaining (for me is it about one-third the width of the marks). Then mark your lens that needs coding. The marks will be too narrow. Widen them (with the template removed) in the direction needed to correct for the template's offset (if any). When the pattern you are trying to code has several black bits in a row, fill in the space between them, as it can't hurt. Finally, put a little white paint into any screw heads located where there needs to be a white bit.

    scott

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    Re: Coder Kit ???

    Quote Originally Posted by ecliffordsmith View Post
    Hi All,

    Perhaps I have been on my own planet a little longer than usual of late but I just stumbled across this.

    http://robertwhite.co.uk/product.asp...11&P=Coder-Kit

    Does this work? Is this old news?

    Sounds pretty handy to me, and non destructive!
    The new version of the decoder kit is much more precise and works very well. The key to reliable detection is now only the "blackness" of the markings.
    Regards
    Volker

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    Re: Coder Kit ???

    I picked it up and had no success with my older lenses. I did manage to code my 35 Summicron ASPH and modern 50 Summicron but the markings wore off too quickly (I do live in humid Florida) and the marker itself had a life expectancy of about a day.

    Any suggestions on where to get replacements, or alternates?

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    Re: Coder Kit ???

    in case you want to get a machined solution:
    [email protected]

  8. #8
    Senior Member ecliffordsmith's Avatar
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    Re: Coder Kit ???

    Hi All,

    Thanks for sharing you experiences, it is very useful information.

  9. #9
    SAKIIMAGES
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    Re: Coder Kit ???

    I purchased this and have found it disappointing based on the value. I have been trying to code my 75mm Lux with no luck. Next is 35mm lux so I will see how that goes.

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    Re: Coder Kit ???

    I couldn't get the coder to work on the 75mm lux either. It worked for everything else. Which means that I know which shots are with the 75, because all the other are coded. DR

  11. #11
    Senior Member Peter Klein's Avatar
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    Re: Coder Kit ???

    Another vote for the coder kit, if you use the "calibration procedure" Scott mentions earlier in the thread. I had to recode my 50 Summicron on vacation when the black marks wore down a little (the first time it's happened in a year). Easy. I just made the marks through the coder, then took it off and thickened them in the correct direction, and voila. It took all of two minutes to do. I already have a dab of white nail polish in the screw head that's where a white mark should be.

    The Japanese industrial marker pen that comes with the coder kit is oil-based and appears make marks that to be a bit more durable than a Sharpie. But in the early days of the coder kit the maker got a batch of pens that tended to dry out quickly. This is, I think, the cause of some of the complaints. A Sharpie works fine, the marks just wear off a little faster.

    One suggestion I have is to turn the lenses to the locked position without applying downward pressure (towards the camera). This seems to make the marks less prone to rub off, as they don't rub on the camera mount until much later in the turn.

    Obviously, the Milich adapters (for LTM lenses) or getting your lenses coded by Leica or milled by John Milich are more permanent solutions. You have to weigh the slight inconvenience of the hand-coding against the cost and time without your lenses and the reports of lenses coming back from Leica focusing less well than they did originally.

    --Peter
    Last edited by Peter Klein; 16th July 2008 at 21:11.

  12. #12
    Workshop Member glenerrolrd's Avatar
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    Re: Coder Kit ???

    Quote Originally Posted by scott kirkpatrick View Post
    There are other threads on this. The net seems to be that the kit works but each unit needs a little calibration. I have coded several lenses successfully with it, and the markings are holding up under occasional changes. The calibration step is simple. Get your hands on a Leica-coded lens and put the M-coder template down. See how to hold it so that the slots in the template line up as close as possible to the Leica marks, and remember the offset remaining (for me is it about one-third the width of the marks). Then mark your lens that needs coding. The marks will be too narrow. Widen them (with the template removed) in the direction needed to correct for the template's offset (if any). When the pattern you are trying to code has several black bits in a row, fill in the space between them, as it can't hurt. Finally, put a little white paint into any screw heads located where there needs to be a white bit.

    scott
    OK I pulled out my decoder kit and was successful with my chrome summilux immediately. Then I tried my zeiss 18 ..no luck after many attempts. I have a WATE to check the calibration of the decoder and have tried adjusting the mark in both directions. The 18 has the correct flange 28/90 as I had it changed by zeiss . I painted the screw . Have tried using white on the correct spots as well as just using black. and I have a WATE to check both the camera and the decoder..what am I missing?

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