Jono Slack's piece on the M(240)

[Paratom]

In the traditional mode, and using the auto (aperture) setting, I usually do the calculation in my head. i compose and focus on the scene, and then if i need exposure compensation i point the camera toward a brighter or darker field of view while watching the time setting in the viewfinder. At the point were I am happy with the exposure I half press the shutter and hold to lock the exposure, recompose and shoot. This usually only requires small movements of the camera, and is quick and easy to do. It makes me think about highlights and shadow, and has served me well in most situations on all of my M cameras (6, 6TTL, 8, 9 & M). John

i do the same often. still it would be nice to have access to exp in an easier way.
the movie button on the top plate would be nice. press it and then you have 3 sec to turn the wheel.
just turnung the whell without having to press any button is alitle problematic that you change the setting accidently whithout noticing.

 

[baudolino]

Very nice piece, thanks for sharing. Will you also write a piece on when I will be able to buy one? Or perhaps one on how enjoyable it is still to use the M9 while the good Leica people assemble 1.5 Typ 240 bodies by hand every month...of course can't make more, in the interest of tight tolerances etc., etc.? Joined the waiting list about 9 months ago....still interested in the new M; not sure if my interest will last till 2015 or so....Best, Martin

 

[Godfrey]

In the traditional mode, and using the auto (aperture) setting, I usually do the calculation in my head. i compose and focus on the scene, and then if i need exposure compensation i point the camera toward a brighter or darker field of view while watching the time setting in the viewfinder. At the point were I am happy with the exposure I half press the shutter and hold to lock the exposure, recompose and shoot. This usually only requires small movements of the camera, and is quick and easy to do. It makes me think about highlights and shadow, and has served me well in most situations on all of my M cameras (6, 6TTL, 8, 9 & M). John

This works and I use it too. However, the logic behind its use is a little different from the logic of the EC control. This methodology allows you to obtain correct exposure on a frame-at-a-time basis using the momentary lock with the shutter half press.

The EC methodology is more useful when you're going to make several exposures at the same time in similar light while still using Auto Exposure to help accommodate changing overall lighting. You target a test area for exposure and compare it to the main subject, then dial in the difference with EC. Now you have established the baseline for the lighting situation when you are shooting a bunch of frames of, say, a person who's expressions you are trying to capture, or a ball game, or other similar quickly paced subjects without having to adjust exposure, reframe, release shutter, adjust exposure, reframe, release shutter, etc, for each exposure.

(A locking AE-Lock button does this too, without using EC, with the liability that you might have an exposure locked when the light changes or have simply forgotten to unlock it. But the M doesn't have one of those. There's a reason that many cameras have a bunch of different buttons dedicated to different tasks, once you get into exploiting what auto exposure can do. ;-)

G

 

[jonoslack]

HI there Olaf
Congratulations on your camera! This has been talked about quite a bit - some say 'use manual' but I think that exposure compensation becomes even more useful when using the EVF.

I quite agree that this could be done better

Sounds like an option available on the Olympus E-1 and a couple of other cameras might be the ticket. Normally, the E-1 requires that you press the EV compensation button and turn the dial to set or change the compensation. You can set an option which pushes it to "direct" mode, where all you have to do is roll the dial. Same was true on the Panasonic L1 and, I think, on the Pentax K1.

If these buttons and dials on the M are firmware addressable, that would be a relatively simple fix.

G

HI Godfrey
Exactly - actually there is this option in the M9 as well - I personally think that it should be on the M too. I guess it would be quite an easy fix.

All the best
Jon

 

[jonoslack]

In the traditional mode, and using the auto (aperture) setting, I usually do the calculation in my head. i compose and focus on the scene, and then if i need exposure compensation i point the camera toward a brighter or darker field of view while watching the time setting in the viewfinder. At the point were I am happy with the exposure I half press the shutter and hold to lock the exposure, recompose and shoot. This usually only requires small movements of the camera, and is quick and easy to do. It makes me think about highlights and shadow, and has served me well in most situations on all of my M cameras (6, 6TTL, 8, 9 & M). John

HI John
I quite agree - this is what I do as well - I think that in rangefinder mode it's both more intuitive and better than using exposure compensation.
However - in live view I think that exposure compensation is really useful, and it would be good if it worked better.

all the best

 

[rga]

HI there Olaf
Congratulations on your camera! This has been talked about quite a bit - some say 'use manual' but I think that exposure compensation becomes even more useful when using the EVF.

I quite agree that this could be done better



HI Godfrey
Exactly - actually there is this option in the M9 as well - I personally think that it should be on the M too. I guess it would be quite an easy fix.

All the best
Jon

If I recall correctly with the M9 there are two options for EC: either spin the dial on the back or half press the shutter AND then spin the dial with the shutter half pressed. I often found, with the first option, that the dial spun without me noticing until many frames later. So I switched to the half shutter press and spin the dial option. This is pretty much the same as the M where you have to press the 'focus' button and then spin the dial.
Not much difference. Certainly not the same as other, perhaps easier options, but once learned is no problem for me (very small hands..)
Best,
Bob

 

[jonoslack]

If I recall correctly with the M9 there are two options for EC: either spin the dial on the back or half press the shutter AND then spin the dial with the shutter half pressed. I often found, with the first option, that the dial spun without me noticing until many frames later. So I switched to the half shutter press and spin the dial option. This is pretty much the same as the M where you have to press the 'focus' button and then spin the dial.
Not much difference. Certainly not the same as other, perhaps easier options, but once learned is no problem for me (very small hands..)
Best,
Bob

HI Bob
I think you'd be less likely to spin the thumb dial by mistake on the M than the M9. I also think it's horses for courses, and that exposure compensation is much more useful with Live view than the rangefinder.
So I'd like to see it both ways - then you can use one of the presets for live view with the dial only switched on, and the other ones with it switched off.

As I say - I'd like to see it.

All the best

 

[rga]

HI Bob
I think you'd be less likely to spin the thumb dial by mistake on the M than the M9. I also think it's horses for courses, and that exposure compensation is much more useful with Live view than the rangefinder.
So I'd like to see it both ways - then you can use one of the presets for live view with the dial only switched on, and the other ones with it switched off.

As I say - I'd like to see it.

All the best

On my M spinning the dial by itself does nothing, so no more mistakes of just spinning the dial and causing a changed EV for me...

As per Live View and EV, I've never used LV...
Best,
Bob