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Converting to a Coded M Lens Mount

Double Negative

Not Available
FYI, guys. Just wrote this up...

If you have a relatively recent Leica lens but it's not coded... You can either temporarily code it with a black marker - or permanently with a properly machined mount flange. The problem is, this procedure can be expensive and lay up your lens for many weeks.

Follow along with this illustrated HOW-TO to convert your lens using a third-party mount flange. $15 and 15 minutes is all it takes.

Converting to a Coded M Lens Mount
 

JoelM

Well-known member
Funny, I just bought 3 flanges from Jin last night. I was wondering about paint or sharpie so your article is most timely and appreciated. I needed a type II for my 75mm Summilux and his response was really fast and informative. I also got the Zeiss 50mm Planar and 90mm macro. Good to know I gambled well since I thought I'd just take a chance.

Thanks,

Joel
 

Double Negative

Not Available
Right on, Joel!

Yes, paint is a better idea, though a Sharpie would work. Since the pits are recessed below the mount flange it won't wear off as quickly - but wear off it will eventually. Since you've gone this far, might as well use paint and be done with it!

I'll be doing a 135mm conversion next. Jin's also got some ZM/CV flanges.

P.S. PetaPixel picked up the story.
 
V

Vivek

Guest
DN,

I did not read your post. Today I received jinfinances flanges (ordered ~10 days ago) and it took <1 minute and a sharpie after reading the codes listed here:

Leica Lens Codes - Leica Forum Blog - Leica Forum Blog

Finally, I have the right frame for the Jupiter-3 (last week in India, it was showing a 35mm frame due to an old original Leica flange I had!) and could even be set to register as a Summilux. The auto detect appears to do something for the contrast from the Jupiter-3. The Rong Jin (jinfinances on ebay) adapters are very well made and pose no problems with the registry distances at all - meaning they are precision machined. A real bargain as well.

I also have a focus mount from Hawk for 50mm lenses. I want to mount a 50/2 Schneider on it and add another 50mm flange.
 

JoelM

Well-known member
Congrats DN on your story being picked up. I didn't know that there was one for 135. I have the f3.4 version so I don't think that there is a code, but I wouldn't mind putting something on it so my EXIF data at least shows 135mm.

Thanks,

Joel
 

segedi

Member
Does anyone know if the Voigtlander 4 screw flanges will work on the Zeiss ZM 21mm /4.5 and 25mm /2.8? The flanges look identical to me, 4 screws in the same places.
 

Double Negative

Not Available
...after reading the codes listed here: LUF
Vivek, that page is woefully out of date. Use Leica Lens Codes instead. It has the new Super-Elmar-M 21mm f/3.4 and APO-Telyt-M 135mm f/4, among other updates.

Congrats DN on your story being picked up. I didn't know that there was one for 135. I have the f3.4 version so I don't think that there is a code, but I wouldn't mind putting something on it so my EXIF data at least shows 135mm.
Thanks! :)

Yes - the APO-Telyt-M has a code, which is listed as 110101 (or ⬛⬛⬜⬛⬜⬛). <- This looks reversed on GetDPI and is seen as ⬜⬜⬛⬜⬛⬜
 

CVickery

Member
Does anyone know if the Voigtlander 4 screw flanges will work on the Zeiss ZM 21mm /4.5 and 25mm /2.8? The flanges look identical to me, 4 screws in the same places.
Just a word of caution on the ZM21/4.5. I owned one for a while and considered a coded flange, but the information I received indicated that this wasn't possible for this lens. I wrote to Zeiss about getting a replacement flange(to have coded) and this was the response:

"Thank you for your inquiry to Carl Zeiss.
Due to the very compact construction of the C-Biogon T* 4,5/21 ZM, the inner part of the focusing helicoid and the bayonet mount ring are one part only.
To replace the bayonet mount ring of this lens, the complete barrel has to be disassembled. For adjusting and re-assembling, special experience and measuring equipment is necessary.
So we do not offer those parts separately to non-authorized service centres."

It would seem that the ZM 21/4.5 would be a problem.
 

Double Negative

Not Available
What a shame on the C Biogon. It's been painful since the get go with digital and doesn't look any better on the latest M. Go figure, the f/2.8 version is a peach!

Anyone have the code for the 50 APO?
 

D&A

Well-known member
Nice articles Michael and very useful too. I would just mention that when looking at the right hand side of the coding table (chart) for non Leica lenses to see what to code them...not always is the corresponding Leica lens listed on the same line, the best code to use for that non Leica lens. Case in point: The Zeiss Zm 21mm f2.8 does much better coded as a Leica 21mm f2.8 Elmariit-M (non asph) as it does much better in eliminating "red-edge issues" as opposed to the suggested coding as a Leica 21mm f2.8 Elmarit-M asph. A few other examples like this also exist.

Dave (D&A)
 

segedi

Member
Thanks for the nudge. I contacted Jin and ended up buying 3 flanges. 90mm Summicron, 40mm Nokton and CV 21/4. My Zeiss 25mm already has the recessed flang so I'll just sharpie it in. And the ZM 21/4.5, well, might just be for film. Will see how it works out on the M if that ever arrives.
 

D&A

Well-known member
Vivek, that page is woefully out of date. Use Leica Lens Codes instead. It has the new Super-Elmar-M 21mm f/3.4 and APO-Telyt-M 135mm f/4, among other updates.
Michael, correct me if I'm wrong but I think in the above "line", you meant "APO-Telyt-M 135mm f/3.4, among other updates", NOT APO-Telyt-M 135mm f4? The APO 135mm is a f3.4 lens, not f4. All versions of the 135mm f4 (pre APO) have never had a 6 bit code.

Dave (D&A)
 

Double Negative

Not Available
Thank you Dave, and you are correct; APO is f/3.4. I will also double-check the "Other Lens" column more thoroughly. A lot of it dates back to the M8 and may not apply to the M9 as well, and it also depends a little on each individual camera. Some work better at one setting than others. Strange but true! :)

You're welcome segedi! I ordered my 135mm flange also. If I can just code my CV 21 1.8 now, I'll be one happy lil' clam!

You're welcome Vivek!
 

D&A

Well-known member
Thanks Michael,

I sent you an e-mail with some questions and other thoughts and one of the things I mentioned (not sure if you were refering to this in your response above) is sometimes the suggested codings for some non Leica lenses listed in the right hand column aren't the best choices with regards to red-edge seen in some of the wides. Yes, it sometimes does relate back to the early days of the M8.

Dave (D&A)
 

JoelM

Well-known member
Nevermind; 110101 & 50/75. :p
Ok, I'm a tad confused. The code for:

APO-Summicron-M 50mm f/2 (VI) 11141 - 110101 ⬛⬛⬜⬛⬜⬛ 50/75 and

APO-Telyt-M 135mm f/3.4 11889 - 110101 ⬛⬛⬜⬛⬜⬛ 35/135

are the same. Wouldn't the exif data be wrong for one of the lenses?

TIA,

Joel
 

250swb

Member
FYI, guys. Just wrote this up...
Converting to a Coded M Lens Mount
Nicely written up.

I'm glad you mentioned tightening the screws opposite to opposite and gradually.

Two observations come to mind. When I did mine a few months ago one of my Jin adapters had some flash in the screw holes. This was just enough to force the adapter off centre despite careful tightening, and the result was that the focusing tightened up on my 50mm Summicron. I drilled the holes out a fraction, but putting a fine round file into the holes would do the same job. This fixed it, and I can hardly complain given the bargain price.

But this led to a second thought, the focusing of my 35mm Summicron had always been slightly notchy and it occured to me it may be for a similar reason. So I simply loosened the screws of the original flange and did them up again gradually and in the right order, and lo and behold the lens became slick and smooth. So for notchy or stiff focusing lenses the first course of action may be to just check the flange screws are tightened properly.

Steve
 
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