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Hopefully that means something new/improved coming around the corner...It appears that the AcuteB2 600 Lithium AIR pack/head has been discontinued (according to B&H website).
That is a shame.
- Marc
Yeah Ken, one can hope … a digital AIR controlled one is what I'd guess.Hopefully that means something new/improved coming around the corner...
ken
I have two B1s and one of them hit the concrete floor during a portrait shoot. I accidentally hit it so no one else to blame. While the B1 was sent for a repair I was given a free B2 location kit and OCF mods to try.Yeah Ken, one can hope … a digital AIR controlled one is what I'd guess.
However, I'd suspect that this B2 concept may be beefed up to 500 or 600/Ws later on.
I am just in the middle of making a lighting decision, and (finally) decided to add a second B1 500 rather than this B2 … no box, and no cords for mobile work is the reason. I already have a tiny Elinchrom Quadra Lithium that does the same thing as the B2.
- Marc
Thanks for the link Andrew!You guys may want to give this comparison a read...
The Elinchrom ELB 400 vs. The Profoto B1 (and B2) » Michael Clark Photography
This question depends on what, where, and when you tend to shoot ... and a bit of what camera gear.Many folks mention that the B2 is only 250W, while the Quadra's are 400W and the B1 is 500W.
Is this really an issue in the day and age of high ISO cameras?
I really low ISO is useful for HSS with fast primes, but under other conditions is 250W really a drawback?
B2 is only good for fills or used as main light unmodified. B1 will give you more juice under bright sunlight. If you use B1 at 250w/s (half power) you will get twice as many flashes and instant recycle time.Many folks mention that the B2 is only 250W, while the Quadra's are 400W and the B1 is 500W.
Is this really an issue in the day and age of high ISO cameras?
I really low ISO is useful for HSS with fast primes, but under other conditions is 250W really a drawback?
On the contrary, the B2 is quite usable with modifiers as a main light. It depends on what you are using the B2 to photograph; it would not be a good choice for groups.B2 is only good for fills or used as main light unmodified. .... With B2's limited power there's no work around if you need to shoot at a particular location in bright sunlight.
....
Check out all the videos on the Profoto site under blog ... scroll deep into it and look at the "Great Wall" stuff.:thumbup:Well, I took the plunge and bought a B2 location kit with 2 heads.
1st impressions - it is a sweet little rig.
Look forward to playing around a bit.
Cheers, S
Yep, the Magnum does boost any Profoto light ... plus, any deep octa like the 27" Rotalux without diffusers acts the same way, except as a larger source.On the contrary, the B2 is quite usable with modifiers as a main light. It depends on what you are using the B2 to photograph; it would not be a good choice for groups.
In bright sunlight, even the B1 might be under powered. But you learn workarounds to get the shot. Leaf shutters help. Try using a Magnum reflector on the B2 (or B1)----you will be able to get a stop more light output on your subject. That's a great workaround if you find yourself constrained by the power of the B2 in bright sunlight.
ken
Chad, I don't see any mention of the Profoto Magnum reflector in the link you provided; it seems the testing was with the normal zoom reflector, Buff's PLM, a few others, and a Profoto Telezoom reflector test done by another photographer, not even the author himself.SOPHA has done some testing with the Magnum reflector in comparison to others and basically finds it rather useless as far as boosting output (B1). The telezoom reflector does seem to do the trick however you'd have to be wealthy to own even one.
http://sophastudio.blogspot.com/2015/04/update-on-profoto-b1-air-and-telezoom.html
Dave Black seems to go to the telezoom reflector along with switching out the frosted glass to clear glass (B1) quite often. He claims a boost from 500ws to 1200ws by doing so.
-Chad