Graham Mitchell
New member
I never do. It's meaningless on moving people.
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Who ever shoots wide open?
- Thread starter gogopix
- Start date
Yeah, well maybe next time you won't lean on me so hard to do weird color!Good description. One problem someone else having the same admin rights as me. :ROTFL::ROTFL::ROTFL:
You know they say paybacks are a bitch. Jack yours is coming bud.
carstenw
Active member
Haha, I *knew* something like this was going on. Ooohh, I am going to enjoy the next few days until the (temporary) cease-fireGood description. One problem someone else having the same admin rights as me. :ROTFL::ROTFL::ROTFL:
You know they say paybacks are a bitch. Jack yours is coming bud.
Guy Mancuso
Administrator, Instructor
Guy Mancuso
Administrator, Instructor
Check his avatar. LOL
Poor Bob get's the brunt of this joke
Poor Bob get's the brunt of this joke
Guy Mancuso
Administrator, Instructor
Tell ya a little secret. Say you have a dust bunny on your sensor and working in C1 . Neat trick use the spot tool to hit that spot or as many as there maybe in the same place. Copy that adjustment and apply to the whole folder. Every image those spots are gone on processing them out. Almost never need to clean your sensor again.
Guy Mancuso
Administrator, Instructor
I think we need to change them back here soon. Just busting each other.Jack and Guy... love the new colorful avatars
The assumption that shooting wide open means shooting right on top of the subject isn't always true or the best way to use a fast lens all the time IMO. Shooting at more of a distance helps mitigate the shallower DOF. So, if I use a HC 100/2.2 wide open but at more of a distance, I can still get nice OOF areas not possible stopped down or with a slower max aperture lens.
Plus, these fast optics allow a lesser ISO to be used ... because higher ISOs all to often introduce more image issues than they solve.
The other thing that is often overlooked is that the viewfinder is brighter so you can actually see what the heck you are shooting better ... and the AF is a bit faster because you can better see what to put the AF sensor on.
The fact that these MF don't have the well spread out multiple AF points doesn't help when using fast glass on off center subjects ... which is why I am really interested in the new focusing innovation for the H4D cameras. If that works as well as advertised, it'll make use of fast glass even more practical and creative.
If you are manually focusing, I'd highly recommend a flip magnifier on the viewfinder. I also installed a split diagonal focusing screen on my MF cameras ... which helps even when using AF since you can immediately see if the AF did it's job.
-Marc
Plus, these fast optics allow a lesser ISO to be used ... because higher ISOs all to often introduce more image issues than they solve.
The other thing that is often overlooked is that the viewfinder is brighter so you can actually see what the heck you are shooting better ... and the AF is a bit faster because you can better see what to put the AF sensor on.
The fact that these MF don't have the well spread out multiple AF points doesn't help when using fast glass on off center subjects ... which is why I am really interested in the new focusing innovation for the H4D cameras. If that works as well as advertised, it'll make use of fast glass even more practical and creative.
If you are manually focusing, I'd highly recommend a flip magnifier on the viewfinder. I also installed a split diagonal focusing screen on my MF cameras ... which helps even when using AF since you can immediately see if the AF did it's job.
-Marc
JimCollum
Member
Victor,
I think a lot of people here have given good feedback. I find that there's a degree of 'emotion' that motivates me to shoot with a shallow DOF. neither of the following images look remotely interesting if fully stopped down, but with a shallow dof, there's a greater sense of dramatic light created that helps isolate the subject, as well as convey a mood.
a completely sharp image can also convey emotion/mood.. but it's dependent upon the quality of the light that's in the image.
(these are all generalizations, btw.. there are exceptions to all
I think a lot of people here have given good feedback. I find that there's a degree of 'emotion' that motivates me to shoot with a shallow DOF. neither of the following images look remotely interesting if fully stopped down, but with a shallow dof, there's a greater sense of dramatic light created that helps isolate the subject, as well as convey a mood.
a completely sharp image can also convey emotion/mood.. but it's dependent upon the quality of the light that's in the image.
(these are all generalizations, btw.. there are exceptions to all
A
andershald
Guest
Hi Victor.
I agree with Victor on this one. There can be a lot of drama in the lo depth field shots...Jim lovely images.
For my application, childrens fashion, I usually shoot at lower apertures f5.6, f4, f2.8 and on a rare occasion even f2 on the 80mm Contax lens. The Contax autofocus, fortunately, is quite accurate (as you know), but I tend to shoot a lot of frames and refocus frequently, just to increase my focus success rate.
The low depth of field helps seperate the child from the background, at various levels, depending on aperture. We usually work on a location, which we have paid for and which is meant to add to the mood of the images. So we need to see the setting, but it needs to be just slightly out of foucus so that it doesn't draw attention away from the clothes (the product). I also tend to shoot a lot in available light, with only a little flash or reflectors to control the light, so the option of shooting on a larger aperture is really handy sometimes.
For my type of work often the mood of the images is more important than sharpness.
Examples here, pick almost any image: www.andershald.com
I agree with Victor on this one. There can be a lot of drama in the lo depth field shots...Jim lovely images.
For my application, childrens fashion, I usually shoot at lower apertures f5.6, f4, f2.8 and on a rare occasion even f2 on the 80mm Contax lens. The Contax autofocus, fortunately, is quite accurate (as you know), but I tend to shoot a lot of frames and refocus frequently, just to increase my focus success rate.
The low depth of field helps seperate the child from the background, at various levels, depending on aperture. We usually work on a location, which we have paid for and which is meant to add to the mood of the images. So we need to see the setting, but it needs to be just slightly out of foucus so that it doesn't draw attention away from the clothes (the product). I also tend to shoot a lot in available light, with only a little flash or reflectors to control the light, so the option of shooting on a larger aperture is really handy sometimes.
For my type of work often the mood of the images is more important than sharpness.
Examples here, pick almost any image: www.andershald.com
