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Thread: Strategy Advice

  1. #51
    thsinar
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    hi David,

    I would like to give some real information on the "vibration" issue with the Sinar Hy6 raised here. I am not sure what Hy6 body you have had in your hands, but pre-production models and prototypes did not have the latest and final built and firmware updates like the production units.

    The Hy6 has a completely new direct mirror drive concept allowing for vibration free releases.
    The camera has been designed with the task in mind to be used with our multishot backs (4- or 16-shot modes) and assure a vibration-free shooting. This is the case with the Hy6.

    On the other hand, I have a very good friend of mine owing a Contax and who used it for some reproduction work with a SB 54 multishot: he had problems with vibrations and had to modify it with some felt to damp down the vibrations. This photographer is also member on this and other forums and has reported this problem elsewhere.

    So the Contax might be alright concerning vibrations in the single shot mode, but not with multishot. On the contrary, I can assure you that the current Hy6 with the newest FW are absolutely perfect for the use of a multishot back.

    Best regards,
    Thierry

    Quote Originally Posted by David Klepacki View Post

    2) Unsurpassed mirror damping. Although the Mamiya 645 can accept the Hasselblad FE lenses as well, its damping mechanism is absolutely horrible. Even the newest Hy6/AFi camera is nowhere near that of the Contax 645 in terms of vibration damping. The Contax 645 can be hand held with high resolution down to 1/15 before seeing any blur in 8x10 print, which is impossible with the other cameras. Of course, I guess this depends on how much coffee you drink. For me, the Contax 645 is like having a MF camera with Image Stabilization.

    David

  2. #52
    thsinar
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Since this issue has not been answered and explained, I will try to shed some light on the color cast issue.

    Basically any sensor, being it a Dalsa or Kodak, can have (or do have) this "problem". Color casts can have different causes:

    1. CC due to the sensor's linear (or non-linear) response. In this respect the Kodak sensor seems to behave a little better than the Dalsa.

    2. CC due to the type of sensor: some sensor like the 30 MPx have micro-lenses on the top of the pixels which make them un-adequate for tilt/swings and shifts and producing extrem color casts. Other sensors like the 22, the 33 and the 39 MPx sensors do not have such micro-lenses on the pixels and as such are more adequate to be used for T/S.

    3. Extrem short focal length will (can) also produce color casts, due the way of the light rays which is longer at the edge of the image circle as compared to the center (fall-off).

    All this combined can lead to some very serious CC problems.

    The way to correct and avoid it is by correcting in the SW. The idea is to create (shoot) a so-called "White Shading" with an opal glass in front of the lens (by exposing about 2 f-stops more to compensate the light due to the glass) and to "subtract" this information from the image. This is very easy and simple to do and works very well, producing images without any CC and completely even (the lens fall-off is corrected this way as well).

    The only "little" problem with it, is the workflow and how you handle this WHEN having hundreds of different shots, taken with different f-stops and/or taken with different lenses, and/or with different TS settings, and/or taken under different light situations. This is where the different systems in the market are very much different.

    Basically it is possible to shoot some "default" white shadings for each lens and for each f-stop of this particular lens you are usually shooting with, combined with each shift (by increments of 5mm shifts in one direction or the other), to save these "default" shadings and to apply them on the images one by one! This is of course not ideal, to use "defaults", since each situation is different. And you can imagine the work and how organized you have to be to do this without mistake! Not speaking about the time involved.

    There is a solution to this with Sinarbacks and by using a tool (freeware) called "Brumbaer eMotion DNG Converter" and written by Stefan Hess, Germany:

    Beside converting your raws into DNGs, this application does apply AUTOMATICALLY the right white shading to the right file, on as many images you have to correct, in a batch process. All one has to do is to shoot a white shading just before the actual shot/image, with the opal glass, and save them later in your Mac as white shadings in a folder. The Brumbaer application will do the rest for you. This workflow saves hours of correcting color casts and lens fall-off.

    This Brumbaer Freeware tool works only with Sinarbacks or Sinar files.

    I hope this makes sense.

    Information about the Brumbaer "eMotion DNG Converter and free download of the tool can be found under:

    http://www.brumbaer.de/Tools/Brumbaer_Tools.html

    Best regards,
    Thierry

    Quote Originally Posted by mark1958 View Post
    David.. I have been hearing about the cast problem as well and truthfully there is a magneta or red cast to some of my shots with the Leaf back. I noticed when i compared a shot from the 5D and leaf Hassy when i printed a comparison.

  3. #53
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    David Klepacki,
    Good to see you posting here and I look forward to reading your articles on the Contax system. Please let me know when and where I can view them. I know how extensively you have tested the various systems and, as a fellow Contax 645 user, think your summary of it's advantages is one of the best I've read. Please post a few shots taken with your 300 2.8... there are so few of these in the world that you must share some images with us.

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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Thierry,
    Thank you for your explanation regarding color casts. Are the Brumbaer tools incorporated in your upcoming Exposure software or will they no longer be necessary because that software handles the cast issues itself?

  5. #55
    thsinar
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    David,

    The Exposure will have parts of Stefan's tools incorporated from the beginning, like the automatic centerfold correction, highlight recovery, etc ... and as well "white shadings" for un-tethered workflow, though this shall not be already in the first released version.

    Best regards,
    Thierry

    Quote Originally Posted by David K View Post
    Thierry,
    Thank you for your explanation regarding color casts. Are the Brumbaer tools incorporated in your upcoming Exposure software or will they no longer be necessary because that software handles the cast issues itself?

  6. #56
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Hi Thierry,

    Yes, you are correct regarding your comments on multishot capability. The Contax 645 is not the best camera for that kind of work, as the mirror does not lock up for successive shots and the delays between shots are not controlled well. In fact, the best camera for 4-shot copy work seems to be the Hasselblad H3DII. There is a nice recent report that investigates how well the best backs from Phase, Hasselblad, Sinar and Leaf compare for museum copy work. In short, the Phase P45+ produced the highest quality single-shot images, and the Hasselblad produced the highest quality multishot images. The fact that the cameras with the Kodak 6.8 micron pixels surpassed those of the slightly larger pixels of the Dalsa chips could be the reason, but this was not actually concluded by the author.

    Basically, I am interested in the best single-shot camera, and I still find the Contax 645 to outweigh any of the other cameras out there by a large margin, and have listed the primary reasons earlier. I also like the option of being able to shoot at ISO 1600 with a Phase P30+ back. This is not even an option with Sinar or Leaf.

    Regards,

    David

  7. #57
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by David K View Post
    David Klepacki,
    Good to see you posting here and I look forward to reading your articles on the Contax system. Please let me know when and where I can view them. I know how extensively you have tested the various systems and, as a fellow Contax 645 user, think your summary of it's advantages is one of the best I've read. Please post a few shots taken with your 300 2.8... there are so few of these in the world that you must share some images with us.
    Hi DavidK,

    Yes, it is my New Year resolution to finally get my website up and running asap, where I will post my articles and experiences. Hopefully, it will be fun and useful to other Contax 645 users.

    David

  8. #58
    thsinar
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    hi David,

    we wil certainly not start to "argue" on who has the best multishot. But just let me say that most of the museums, galleries, libraries and other institutions using the multishot use the SB 54 H, with its 16-shot capability. The 39 MPx has no 16-shot mode and I can assure you that you wn't come near the quality reached with 16-shot, even with a 39 MPx.

    I have also seen myself comparison shots from a famous NY national museum, where they have clearly concluded after many tests of different backs, that the Sinar 54H and eV75 H produce the best files.

    So I guess it is claim against claim, and I prefer to refer in this case to the users themselves. I don't know who did this test/report, but it seems to be biased: if you could link me to it, I would be glad to read it.

    Again, I don't wish to enter a polemic here, but one has to be aware that tests are what they are, with there flaws and un-certainties concerning the exact use of each back and knowledge about the HD and SW when tested.

    Thanks and best regards,
    Thierry

    Quote Originally Posted by David Klepacki View Post
    Hi Thierry,

    Yes, you are correct regarding your comments on multishot capability. The Contax 645 is not the best camera for that kind of work, as the mirror does not lock up for successive shots and the delays between shots are not controlled well. In fact, the best camera for 4-shot copy work seems to be the Hasselblad H3DII. There is a nice recent report that investigates how well the best backs from Phase, Hasselblad, Sinar and Leaf compare for museum copy work. In short, the Phase P45+ produced the highest quality single-shot images, and the Hasselblad produced the highest quality multishot images. The fact that the cameras with the Kodak 6.8 micron pixels surpassed those of the slightly larger pixels of the Dalsa chips could be the reason, but this was not actually concluded by the author.

    Basically, I am interested in the best single-shot camera, and I still find the Contax 645 to outweigh any of the other cameras out there by a large margin, and have listed the primary reasons earlier. I also like the option of being able to shoot at ISO 1600 with a Phase P30+ back. This is not even an option with Sinar or Leaf.

    Regards,

    David

  9. #59
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Hi Thierry,

    No argument here. I also think the 16-shot backs (from both Sinar and Hasselblad) are unbeatable for absolute image quality of still images.

    Here again, it may come down to the like/dislike of the software for each back. Right now, the new Phocus software from Hasselblad may have an edge, since it is capable of removing the moire on their single shot images, making the IQ a bit better in single shot mode.....but I will let someone like Steve Hendrix debate that further, if he chooses.

    I do not mean my post to be an attack on anyone's products, so I will not post anything further along these lines. My initial intent was just to try and help Mark understand the benefits of the Contax 645, so I apologize for any antagonism that I may have inadvertantly caused.

    For the record, let me say that I do have high regard for Sinar products.

    David

  10. #60
    thsinar
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    no harm at all, David.

    We are here to debate: that's what a forum is for, isn't it?

    As for me, I'm just here to give information, as accurate and true as possible, and let people know about Sinar and what we have already achieved in the past. We might not be the market leaders in terms of market share, but our products are unanimously known for their qualities.

    Is Phocus available yet: last month in Singapore at the photo fair they informed me that it would be sometime next year. DO you know more about it?

    Best regards,
    Thierry

    Quote Originally Posted by David Klepacki View Post
    Hi Thierry,

    No argument here. I also think the 16-shot backs (from both Sinar and Hasselblad) are unbeatable for absolute image quality of still images.

    Here again, it may come down to the like/dislike of the software for each back. Right now, the new Phocus software from Hasselblad may have an edge, since it is capable of removing the moire on their single shot images, making the IQ a bit better in single shot mode.....but I will let someone like Steve Hendrix debate that further, if he chooses.

    I do not mean my post to be an attack on anyone's products, so I will not post anything further along these lines. My initial intent was just to try and help Mark understand the benefits of the Contax 645, so I apologize for any antagonism that I may have inadvertantly caused.

    For the record, let me say that I do have high regard for Sinar products.

    David

  11. #61
    Super Duper
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Thierry, Phocus is being demonstrated in an Alpha form right now, so Beta testing is yet to come .... or may be underway already. It was thought to be available by late January, but I don't see how that will happen ... and I don't really care how long they take as long as it is right when launched. My bet is early Spring in the US.

    I've been working with Flexcolor for some years now, and participate in a worldwide Hasselblad Digital forum of Professional photographers who share tips and tricks. Flex does more, and has complex feature combinations many folks can't appreciate unless you use it on a daily basis. No different than any other good RAW software I'm sure.

    Not to discount any one else's opinion, But if I were entering the MF digital market fresh, there would be two systems I would consider: Hasselblad and Hy6 (Probably Sinar if they update their backs in the near future). Then it would come down to what intuitively feels the best to do the work you do, and who has the most immediate/local technical support. All the rest is arguing minutia.

    I view MF cameras as just boxes to hang stuff off of. Contax 645, Mamiya 645AFD-II & RZ Pro-IID, Hasselbald H, Hasselblad V, Rollei, Hy6 etc. .... all with slightly different attributes to consider against your needs ... but essentially boxes.

    In the leap-frog race concerning digital backs, the race is constantly neck and neck, with a front runner's lead position evaporating in a matter of months. The differences are usually minutia hyped up by back makers to appear further ahead than they really are.

    Lenses are a personal thing. I use most all of the H/C lenses on my H3Ds when AF is important, but have two CF adapters to use one of the widest selection of MF lenses on the planet, from fisheye to 500mm when I have the leisure opportunity to shoot Manual Focus. Relatively inexpensive but excellent optics these days. I gather that the Hy6 also offers the expanded possibility to use existing Rollei glass ... which is why my selection would be between the H and Hy6 where I starting afresh. Since I already had ALL of the CFi & CFE Zeiss lenses from Fisheye up to 350mm my decision was easy.

    A word in support of the lowly Mamiya 645 AFD-II often discounted in these discussions: I use this camera with an Aptus 75s and an adapter to mount any Zeiss V lens ever made (including the F & FE optics). I did the same thing with my Contax 645 before selling it. As a "box" this camera works just as good as any, and is quite easy to operate for tripod work.

    BTW, Multishot backs are very specialized pieces of equipment requiring very specific needs and shooting conditions. I do not own one for this reason ... not to mention the cost. However, as an advertising person, I have shot with photographers who DO use them for our static product work and they are amazing. Point being that in these discussions amongst mere mortals, perhaps the gear closet of the Gods shouldn't weigh-in on the argument to heavily.
    Last edited by fotografz; 13th December 2007 at 02:27.

  12. #62
    thsinar
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    hi Marc,

    Thanks for the info. You're right, better later and working then rushed.

    And you are also "damn" right on the SW issue: when one knows it by heart then one only starts to appreciate its features and complexity. I am sure that Flexcolor does the work right. Some will tell you "this or that" SW is "crap", but have only a little overview of it. Sure also, I understand some who do not like the workflow or needing a different one. It is difficult to argue then, and usually I don't.

    Actually the multishot backs are not more expensive than the corresponding single shot back, at least with Sinar: the eVolution 75 (33 MPx) has excatly the same price as its equivalent 33 MPX single shot, the eMotion 75.

    Best regards,
    Thierry

    Quote Originally Posted by fotografz View Post
    Thierry, Phocus is being demonstrated in an Alpha form right now, so Beta testing is yet to come .... My bet is early Spring in the US.

    I've been working with Flexcolor for some years now, and participate in a worldwide Hasselblad Digital forum of Professional photographers who share tips and tricks. Flex does more, and has complex feature combinations many folks can't appreciate unless you use it on a daily basis. No different than any other good RAW software I'm sure.


    BTW, Multishot backs are very specialized pieces of equipment requiring very specific needs and shooting conditions. I do not own one for this reason ... not to mention the cost. However, as an advertising person, I have shot with photographers who DO use them for our static product work and they are amazing. Point being that in these discussions amongst mere mortals, perhaps the gear closet of the Gods shouldn't weigh-in on the argument to heavily.

  13. #63
    Super Duper
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by thsinar View Post
    hi Marc,

    Actually the multishot backs are not more expensive than the corresponding single shot back, at least with Sinar: the eVolution 75 (33 MPx) has exactly the same price as its equivalent 33 MPX single shot, the eMotion 75.

    Best regards,
    Thierry
    Thanks Thierry. I think I knew that the Sinar 4 shot eVolution 75 was comparably priced to the Sinar eMotion 75. However, one is strictly a tethered back, and the other is a portable one with LCD.

    My comment was referencing the Hasselblad CF/39 or 22-MS, a 4 Res back which also can be used as a fully portable unit without tether for full flexibly of application on most MF cameras ... OR the new H3D/39-MS integrated system camera ... available of course, at a cost. So, again, it depends on your applications and pocketbook : -)

  14. #64
    thsinar
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Yes, right!

    Thanks for the info and nice day over there.

    Cheers,
    Thierry

    Quote Originally Posted by fotografz View Post
    Thanks Thierry. I think I knew that the Sinar 4 shot eVolution 75 was comparably priced to the Sinar eMotion 75. However, one is strictly a tethered back, and the other is a portable one with LCD.

    My comment was referencing the Hasselblad CF/39 or 22-MS, a 4 Res back which also can be used as a fully portable unit without tether for full flexibly of application on most MF cameras ... OR the new H3D/39-MS integrated system camera ... available of course, at a cost. So, again, it depends on your applications and pocketbook : -)

  15. #65
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    BTW, on the Hasselblad site they claim that Phocus will be available for download by the end of 2007. This is a pretty recent addition to the site, so maybe I'm working with old news in my above post.

    Heres the "Phocus" link for those interested:

    http://www.hasselbladusa.com/promotions/phocus.aspx

  16. #66
    Samuel Axelsson
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by David Klepacki View Post
    Hi DavidK,

    Yes, it is my New Year resolution to finally get my website up and running asap, where I will post my articles and experiences. Hopefully, it will be fun and useful to other Contax 645 users.

    David
    David, I'm looking forward to read your Contax reports. I'm an avid Contax user/owner myself.
    I'm at this moment using H2 for my digital work but if the new PhaseOne camera isn't what I'm expecting I'll probably change the mount to a Contax again. I left Contax because it was discontinued and now that H2 is discontinued too I see my error leaving the Contax system. Never been more comfortable photographing than with the Contax 645.



    /Samuel

  17. #67
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by Samuel Axelsson View Post
    David, I'm looking forward to read your Contax reports. I'm an avid Contax user/owner myself.
    I'm at this moment using H2 for my digital work but if the new PhaseOne camera isn't what I'm expecting I'll probably change the mount to a Contax again. I left Contax because it was discontinued and now that H2 is discontinued too I see my error leaving the Contax system. Never been more comfortable photographing than with the Contax 645.



    /Samuel
    Hi Samuel,

    Thank you for your words of encouragement. I see that your website is coming along fine...it has a pleasant layout so far.

    As far as the Phase back, I think you are going to love it. I now use the P30+, since for me the out-of-box color quality is the best I have seen so far. I rarely need any color correction, and the skin tones are perfect. If you shoot interiors that are fairly dark (like museums, churches etc.), it is even more incredible. With the Contax F2/80mm lens, at ISO 1600, it will autofocus in hand-held situations where it is really tough to even see through the viewfinder.

    As much as I love the Contax 645, it comes down to the lenses. If you have the lenses that you like with the H2, then I cannot honestly recommend changing over to the Contax 645. But if you are unhappy with that system, do not be afraid to come back to Contax.

    David

  18. #68
    Samuel Axelsson
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Quote Originally Posted by David Klepacki View Post
    Hi Samuel,

    Thank you for your words of encouragement. I see that your website is coming along fine...it has a pleasant layout so far.

    As far as the Phase back, I think you are going to love it. I now use the P30+, since for me the out-of-box color quality is the best I have seen so far. I rarely need any color correction, and the skin tones are perfect. If you shoot interiors that are fairly dark (like museums, churches etc.), it is even more incredible. With the Contax F2/80mm lens, at ISO 1600, it will autofocus in hand-held situations where it is really tough to even see through the viewfinder.

    As much as I love the Contax 645, it comes down to the lenses. If you have the lenses that you like with the H2, then I cannot honestly recommend changing over to the Contax 645. But if you are unhappy with that system, do not be afraid to come back to Contax.

    David
    I'm actually very happy with the H2. Regarding quality and functionality there's nothing to complain about. The problem is Hasselblad as company and their policies/prices. I deeply dislike the direction they are taking and even if I'm happy with the camera I'm sure for my experience that I won't loose in quality if I change platform. The first pictures you see on my website are the H2 (left) and Contax (Right).
    Right now It depends on what PhaseOne has to offer...

  19. #69
    Subscriber Member jotloob's Avatar
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    Re: FOCUS SHIFT ISSUE

    Quote Originally Posted by PeterA View Post
    The Alpa is good for wide angle shots - I use a 12WA and 12TC with an Aptus 75 - the Alpa is best on a tripod - but it is a light system to carry around, I use a 24 and a 35 with he 35 getting most of the use - in my mind the weak link being the battery system on the MF digi back, I am looking at after market long charge battey pack. I like the low crop factor of the Leaf 75 and I dont need the speed of the 75s.
    This is about the only thready I coud find where forum members could possibly answer my question .

    I have a RODENSTOCK APO-SIRONAR-DIGITAL 4,5/35mm lens , which I did not use very often up to now .
    Currently it is mounted on a lensboard (110) for my ARCA F-LINE METRIC .

    Now , my intention is to get that lens adapted to be used with my ALPA12SWA and bring that lens to more use .

    I got an E-mail answer from ALPA , stating , the adaption is possible and would cost about 1500CHF .
    But the ALPA people also mentioned , that this lens is not recommended for
    DB with pixel sizes smaller than 9µ and that an image quality loss will exist if backs with smaller pixel sizes are used . (7,2 or 6,8 µ) .

    But an other remark causes some confusion , because I have never heard about this before .
    The magic word is "focus shift phenomena".
    They only gave a short explanation and no link to any qualified article or review .
    It shortly said the following : If you focus at fully open aperture and have then finished your focusing and composition , you set your aperture to say f=11 or even f=16 , your focusing is now shifted about 0.1 to 0.3 mm .
    They did not say in which direction (this does not matter here anyway , I believe) but it would make any shimming you have done to your back adapter obsolete and also not give you the optimum focus quality .

    Can anyone share his/her experience regarding this issue and possibly give a link to any review ? ? ?
    Thank you .
    Regards . Jürgen .
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  20. #70
    Subscriber & Workshop Member GrahamWelland's Avatar
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    I don't have specific information about the focus shift characteristics of the 35/4.5 but I've certainly run into it with Leica M glass, particularly Noctilux & 35 Summilux lenses.

    The problem is that the lens back or front focuses as you stop down and within a certain aperture range that takes focus outside of the acceptable depth of field that the smaller aperture provides. In the Leica cases you could optimize the lens for say f/1 or f/1.4 or f/2 and have to put up with slight front/back focus at f/4 but by f/5.6 or f/8 onwards your depth of field would pretty much mask any loss of focus. On film you didn't necessarily notice this but now that we all pixel peep and sensor resolution is so fine and uncompromising we now notice these effects with glass from the 'film era'.

    With respect to the lens on the Alpa, I guess you could have them optimise the calibration of the lens to the mount so that it focused accurately at f/8 or f/11. The downside obviously would be if you want to focus wide open on a ground glass - it would be out at f/4.5 via the loupe, or put another way if you focused at f/4.5 then f/8 or f/11 would be off.

    I'd trust what the Alpa folks are telling you about suitability of the lens. They have little or no vested interest in this since they'll do the conversion work for you regardless.

    Btw, even in their lens line up they do point out existing lenses in the range that they don't recommend for digital work.

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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Focus shift is an optical fact I'm afraid. Practical effect and degree of effect vary depending on lens and use.

    I'm not a big fan of GG focusing for small micron backs anyway so I don't see this being an issue. But if you want to GG focus it can bite you for sure.

    http://diglloyd.com/articles/Focus/FocusShift.html

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  22. #72
    Subscriber & Workshop Member GrahamWelland's Avatar
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    If you aren't using the GG for focusing and are choosing to use either hyperfocal or zone/scale focusing, then getting the lens optimized for your expected apertures would solve the problem. I don't know about other Alpa users but I pretty much follow the recommendations of optimal performance when shooting f/8 - f/11 with my 47 APO-Digitar and 90 HR-W Digaron.

  23. #73
    Subscriber Member jotloob's Avatar
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Well , this is a kind of "apologize" . I must confess , I really never ever heard of the
    "focus shift" phenomena .
    Therefore thank you Doug and Graham for your link and hints , which made me search intensive for "focus shift" in the net .
    Unfortunately , the most interesting articles I found are all in english language and therefore sometimes , due to the many terms not so easy to understand for me .

    Is it correct , that actually all lenses "suffer" the focus shift issue ? ? ?
    The ones more than others ? ? ?

    I understand , that this issue is only relevant when using a GG for focusing . My APO-SIRONAR-DIGITAL 4,5/35mm has only very little usage and seems to be optimized for f/11 . At least that is what the little control ticket said which came with the lens .
    My intention for future work with my ALPA is , to use the GG for composing , especially for architecture shots and use the laser distometer and the new ALPA HPF rings for focusing . They should be available soon .
    Or the hyperfocal method for landscape shooting .

    Thanks again Doug and Graham . Merry x-mas to you .
    Regards . Jürgen .
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  24. #74
    Subscriber & Workshop Member GrahamWelland's Avatar
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    Re: Strategy Advice

    Jurgen,

    You might want to do some searching over on the Leica Forum - they have an extensive german forum where you'll doubtless get plenty of information about focus shift as it pertains to even Leica glass:
    http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/?langid=1

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