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Profoto D1 1000 and Leaf Aptus 22 : color T° too hight ?

A

archivue

Active member
when i shoot a Gretag Macbeth ColorChecker Gray Scale Balance Card with my aptus 22 and my profoto D1... leaf capture read the grey as being more than 7000 °K
I've tried it with two computers !

i've just tried an old broncolor FCC colormeter that says 6100°K

a friend of mine will send me his Minolta III colormeter to test it also.

They are supposed to be at 5800°K... so, 6100 i can understand, but 7000, an even 7250 for the second head ?

something wrong with my back ? leaf capture ?
 
D

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
My D1 Profotos come in at 5500K - they are 500's but I doubt that would make a difference.

How do the files look?

Bob
 
M

Mark_Tuttle

Member
archivue said:
when i shoot a Gretag Macbeth ColorChecker Gray Scale Balance Card with my aptus 22 and my profoto D1... leaf capture read the grey as being more than 7000 °K
I've tried it with two computers !

i've just tried an old broncolor FCC colormeter that says 6100°K

a friend of mine will send me his Minolta III colormeter to test it also.

They are supposed to be at 5800°K... so, 6100 i can understand, but 7000, an even 7250 for the second head ?

something wrong with my back ? leaf capture ?
Click to expand...
What modifiers are you using? I've found that they change the temp also. Mine tend to fall in the 4800 ~ 6000 k range, but nothing like you are experiencing.
 
Jack

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Did you buy them new or used? I ask because with Profoto you can buy UV or clear flash-tubes AND UV or clear, frosted or unfrosted cover glasses. It is not uncommon for a cover glass to break and somebody inadvertently replace a UV glass with a non-UV glass, raising the color temp. So if neither the tube or the cover glass is coated, that will run the temps way up...

As Mark said it could also be modifiers --- softboxes with baffles usually go quite a bit warmer, and yellow as they age, so go even warmer still, but this of course would lower your color temp, not raise it.

THis is why Profoto offers the coated and uncoated tubes and cover-glasses, so you can balance your light to your particular modifier...
 
A

archivue

Active member
i've bought it new 6 months ago, and this test is without modifier !

i'm in the process to buy the minus 300K dome.

I also find that even with the profoto softbox, the light is harder than with a profoto compact 1200... without dome, the light is much more directive !

Reading that : "Sekonic Prodigi C-500 Meter takes care of your color and lighting calibration with the ability to read spectral sensitivity for film, ccs, and cmos sensors"
i start to believe that the difference between the leaf capture software and the colormeter is just about spectral sensitivity.

Anyway the image looks good, but mixing with natural light becomes more tricky !
 
D

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
archivue said:
how did you mesure it ?
Click to expand...
Gross k from D3 and H3DII when viewed in ACR/Phocus....

I guess if I were more rigid I could drag out my Eye One Extreme but the white balance and color were very good at 55-5700K.

By the way I bought the new domes for the D1 to use on modifiers like the White beauty dish...seems to get closer to the compact as far as light spread...and very easy to change out as needed.

Bob
 
D

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
My assumption is that Leaf Capture is way off...the others seem to be fairly close. Do Leaf Capture files look warmer than real time?

Bob
 
H

Henry Goh

Member
If I remember correctly, when I compared color temperature readout in Capture 1, Bibble 4.xx and my Minolta colormeter, they all gave me very different results. I stopped believing in using such readings and now shoot reference frames of known standards like X-rite passport or CC24 or CC SG before every shoot.
 
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