Hasselblad HC 120mm Macro Lens

[kuau]

Was thinking about buying one. wanted to get some feedback from other users.
I know the lens is very big and heavy, I have tried using my HC 150mm and the 26mm extension tube but still can't get close enough of should I also consider the 52mm extension tube, or is the 120mm macro the way to go.

Steven

 

[filmless]

Hi Steven,

The 120mm is in my opinion one of the sharpest lenses I've ever shot with. Yes it is a bit heavy but well built. How close are you trying to get? Give me an example and I'll do a test for you.

Tim
[email protected]
Tim

 

[Quentin_Bargate]

I have one on order, due to be delivered when the H4D-50 arrives. I tried it out on a few head and shoulders shots and it seemed to be impeccably sharp.

Quentin

 

[kuau]

Hi Steven,

The 120mm is in my opinion one of the sharpest lenses I've ever shot with. Yes it is a bit heavy but well built. How close are you trying to get? Give me an example and I'll do a test for you.

Tim
[email protected]
Tim

OK here is an example. I shot this with my now sold D3x and 85mm PC-E lens.
With my HC 150mm and 26mm extension I don't think could get this close but not sure about the 52mm extensiom
Steven

 

[docmoore]

I am sure that you would approach this distance but the DOF would be much more shallow.

http://www.hasselbladusa.com/media/5528/extension_tubes_imperialv5.pdf

80 or 100 will get you closer but DOF may still be of concern.

Bob

 

[docmoore]

Gorgeous capture .... Im thinking Mimosas on the veranda at daybreak.

Bob

 

[kuau]

So Bob are you basically saying that if I go to a 52mm extension tube with my HC 150mm it may get me there but the DOF will be very shallow.
Whereas if I go with the 120mm macro, Im for sure there, with better dof.
I am new to extension tubes, so basically as I increase the length of the tube do I loose DOF?
I took a look at the document bellow, way to technical for me.

Steven

I am sure that you would approach this distance but the DOF would be much more shallow.

http://www.hasselbladusa.com/media/5528/extension_tubes_imperialv5.pdf

80 or 100 will get you closer but DOF may still be of concern.

Bob

 

[docmoore]

So Bob are you basically saying that if I go to a 52mm extension tube with my HC 150mm it may get me there but the DOF will be very shallow.
Whereas if I go with the 120mm macro, Im for sure there, with better dof.
I am new to extension tubes, so basically as I increase the length of the tube do I loose DOF?
I took a look at the document bellow, way to technical for me.

Steven

It mainly shows the minimal focus distance for your lens with any extension tube or combination thereof. Yes I think that the DOF is extremely limited as you move the lens further out....can be of benefit but you may find it limiting.

I use extension tubes a lot....not enough macro to justify the 120 and I am still building my arms with the 50-110.

Here are a few with the 80 HC and 13 or 26 tubes....notice that as you focus more closely the DOF disappears. All were exposed at 2.8 except #2 which was the equivalent of F 20.

#1

#2

#3

#4

#5

These will not win any awards but do give a basic idea of how shallow the DOF will be...this will be magnified as the focal length increases as with your 150.

Bob

 

[Paul Spinnler]

Hey Steven,

just got a loaner H3D-50 today with a macro lens.

I can tell you - this lens is killer. Incredibly sharp. Get it. And you can get close enough. I posted a sample from a rose picture I made today in a nearby garden in the "Fun with MF images"-thread.

Regards

Paul

 

[fotografz]

120mm on a 1.1X digital camera is about an 82mm equivalent on a 35mm FF camera.

The HC 120/4 Macro focuses down to 15" on its own, the 150s close focusing is 4.25'.

Like the 150, the 120/4 aperture stops down to f/45 to gain DOF when needed, but I do not know where de-fraction begins taking its toll on either lens.

Most Macros are optimized for close focusing and usually out perform standard lenses using extension tubes.

You 26mm tube on the 120 will get you really close.

I use the 120 most of the time when doing table top in studio.

-Marc

 

[kuau]

Thanks everyone sounds like if I want to get close
get the 120 mm an be done with it
steven

 

[ptomsu]

Was thinking about buying one. wanted to get some feedback from other users.
I know the lens is very big and heavy, I have tried using my HC 150mm and the 26mm extension tube but still can't get close enough of should I also consider the 52mm extension tube, or is the 120mm macro the way to go.

Steven

Steven

depends on how often you will use it. It is an excellent lens, absolutely worth the money. If you can get a used one in mint condition even better.

And .....

Keep in mind it is big (not a fun to carry around, so more for Studio work) and AF is pretty slow (because of the extension) so nothing for general usage (at least not for me). I found I am very rarely using Macro lenses and this would make this lens just another one sitting on my shelves at home So I personally do not get one I rather look for the 150 and 300.

 

[perjorgen]

If you are using 26 and 52 extension tubes with 150mm the minimal area you will cover is 1.5 times the sensor size
120mm on its own has a minimal cover of 1 time the senor size and if you use your 26 extension the minimal cover drops to 0.76 times the sensor size or 1.7''x1.3'' so you will get much closer with the 120mm

Another thing the 120mm is designed for close focusing so it is much sharper at close range than the other H-lenses. I am not sure what the optimal focusing distance is definitely not the minimal focusing distance but I guess is when used as a portrait lens.

I have only used extension once and I got a little annoyed about the short focus range which is not a problem you have with the 120mm

 

[fotografz]

Today I take delivery of the Hasselblad HTS 1.5 Tilt Shift unit for both studio table-top and a more portable/usable field solution than my Rollei Xact view camera. WaHooo!!!

Hopefully, this will mitigate the need for stopping down so much when doing close-up work that needs to be sharp front to back or in need of controlling the DOF or perspective more precisely than with the 120.

So, the chief studio comparison I will be trying is against the 120 macro which I currently use for most studio table-top type work. I'll be using the 100/2.2 and 50/3.2 on the HTS for these comparisons.

The H4D/40 is 1.3X crop factor added to the 1.5X factor of the HTS ... so the HC/100 = a 196mm field-of-view (120mm equivalent in 35mm terms), and the HC/50 = 98mm (or 60mm equivalent in 35mm). The 120/4 = 156mm on the H4D/40 (or 97mm equivalent in 35mm terms).

The HTS also allows use of extension tubes, but how much tilt/shift is possible with these remains to be seen, especially with the 100mm which is the longest lens recommended by Hasselblad on the HTS.

This work is always done with strobes so light levels will not be an issue.

I'll post my impressions as soon as I get there. :salute:

-Marc

P.S., I also got the Hasselbad AC converter grip for studio use so I need not worry about having grip batteries fully charged all the time. Free at last! :thumbup:

 

[Quentin_Bargate]

Marc

Im very interedsted in your thoughts on the HTS 1.5 in the studio and for landscape (if you use it for that). I tried one out handheld with flash and it worked a treat, but it was not a scientific test and I could not afford to add that to my significant bill for a H4D-50 and lenses (delivery of which is awaited).

I used to use LF film with rising front, tilt etc and the Hassy solution should be a more technically astute version of the same thing in essence. The HTS 1.5 is one of the things that persuaded me to move to Hassy - the last brick in the wall, so to speak.

 

[Udo]

Hello there,

while watering our garden yesterday I disturbed this little chap, dropped the water hose and grabbed my H2 plus HC120 plus a P30+. Definitely nothing award winning, but it might fit to this actual thread. Shot was done handheld at f8. No sharpening added, just C1 defaults and a bit of saturation increase.

As for the HTS I'd like to add, that this adapter combined with the 28, 35, 80 and 100 gives the best results. This is my first impression. For the 50 I need some more testing. I have used those combos with a CF22-MS and a P30+. For the ALL-Hasselblad combo DAC works perfectly, while with the P30+ there are some limitations for shift most likely due to the micro lenses on the sensor. And the lens hoods shouldn't be used at the extremes.

Regards,
Udo

 

[fotografz]

Thanks for the tips on HTS usage :thumbup:

-Marc

 

[P. Chong]

I have actually tried the HTS with the 80mm, and find for table top macro work the tilt is insufficient to render a watch dial at 30deg angle fully focussed. For my applications, I think at some point I will need a P3 or X-ACT2. Its a pity the HTS cannot be used with the 120 macro.

 

[anGy]

Would be VERY interesting to get some impression about HTS and product photo. I'm about to sell my Cambo Ultima on ebay (not using it enough). I'm using the HC 120, really superb lens, but limiting compared to a tech cam.
I'm really skeptical about the quality results of a 100mm + HTS compared to a 'naked' HC 120mm...

 

[fotografz]

I have actually tried the HTS with the 80mm, and find for table top macro work the tilt is insufficient to render a watch dial at 30deg angle fully focussed. For my applications, I think at some point I will need a P3 or X-ACT2. Its a pity the HTS cannot be used with the 120 macro.

You are probably right. A view camera will give you more movements for that specific application, and the lenses are beyond compare.

Even though I now have the HTS 1.5, I will still keep my Rollei Xact2 for some studio applications.

-Marc