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22mpx systems

Clawery

New member
Here is a quick break down of the different Phase One digital backs. I'll also upload a data sheet to show you more specs.

P20/P20+=16MP 9x9 micron pixels
P21/P21+=18MP 9x9 micron pixels
P25/P25+=22MP 9x9 micron pixels
P30/P30+=31MP 6.8x6.8 micron pixels
P45/P45+=39MP 6.8x6.8 micron pixels

*DOUBLE CLICK ON PDF TO GET THE SECOND PAGE OF SPECS.

Chris Lawery
Sales Manager
[email protected]
Capture Integration, Phase One Dealer of the Year

877-217-9870 | National
404-234-5195 | Cell
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BJNY

Member
Here is a quick break down of the different Phase One digital backs.

P20/P20+=16MP 9x9 micron pixels
P21/P21+=18MP 9x9 micron pixels
P25/P25+=22MP 9x9 micron pixels
P30/P30+=31MP 6.8x6.8 micron pixels
P45/P45+=39MP 6.8x6.8 micron pixels
Chris,
Do you know why Phase One doesn't name their digital backs according to megapixel count? It certainly confuses.
Billy
 

irakly

New member
Chris,
Do you know why Phase One doesn't name their digital backs according to megapixel count? It certainly confuses.
Billy
believe me, there are some way more confusing things in life. for instance, why there are seven days between monday and sunday, but only one day between sunday and monday... or why american government subsidizes corn grown for biofuels :)
 
I said, - "try overexposing a stop and then pull 1EV, just like with negative colour film". First Marc did not believe me. That until he tried :)
I like to think of myself as being reasonably proficient with film, but when it comes to digital I'm still on the starting blocks...
... is there a web site I can visit to learn more about standard "development" techniques for digital? I can happily move sliders about until things look right, but how do I achieve 1EV underdevelopment consistently?
 

Clawery

New member
I like to think of myself as being reasonably proficient with film, but when it comes to digital I'm still on the starting blocks...
... is there a web site I can visit to learn more about standard "development" techniques for digital? I can happily move sliders about until things look right, but how do I achieve 1EV underdevelopment consistently?
Here is a link to Peter Krogh's book The DAM Book :

http://www.thedambook.com/

I've heard good things about the book and his workshops.

Chris Lawery
Sales Manager
[email protected]
Capture Integration, Phase One Dealer of the Year

877-217-9870 | National
404-234-5195 | Cell
Sign up for our Newsletter | Read Our Latest Newsletter
 
Here is a link to Peter Krogh's book The DAM Book :

http://www.thedambook.com/

I've heard good things about the book and his workshops.

Chris Lawery
Sales Manager
[email protected]
Capture Integration, Phase One Dealer of the Year

877-217-9870 | National
404-234-5195 | Cell
Sign up for our Newsletter | Read Our Latest Newsletter
Thanks for the link, Chris. This stuff looks interesting, but it's not quite what I was after.

There must be a standard way of, say, reducing EV by one by technical means, not by sight, e.g. reduce contrast by x% and brightness by y%. Rather than having to find these things out for myself , surely someone has already produced a methodology for doing these things? A better example from film processing might be pre-exposure of the neg to raise low-level detail. How do I accomplish an equivalent accurately and consistently in digital?

What I need is a film-to-digital technique convertor!

Cheers,

Graham.
 
There is a Sinar eMotion22 on ebay with what looks like a Rollei 6008 adapter (which is worth a bit by itself). Check with the buyer and as always caveat emptor.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320251895718
Thanks for the heads up Graham.

The last two backs I've seen on ebay (sold in Germany, and Switzerland) have both been 'cash on collection' and/or 'bank transfer'. I can understand why the seller might take approaches like these, but it doesn't inspire confidence when contemplating sending (or carrying) large amounts of money into foreign countries. The thought quite scares me!
 

Graham Mitchell

New member
I would feel the same way but there are workarounds in these situations. Contact a local law firm in the seller's town (agreed to by both parties) to act as an escrow agent, for example. Or fly there but don't withdraw the money until you are with the seller and have inspected the goods. If you have a visa card attached to the account with the funds, some banks will allow you to withdraw a large amount of cash over the counter as a visa transaction using appropriate ID. (I have personally withdrawn around $5K this way). It would probably help to pre-arrange this with the relevant branch to avoid problems.
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Thanks for the link, Chris. This stuff looks interesting, but it's not quite what I was after.

There must be a standard way of, say, reducing EV by one by technical means, not by sight, e.g. reduce contrast by x% and brightness by y%. Rather than having to find these things out for myself , surely someone has already produced a methodology for doing these things? A better example from film processing might be pre-exposure of the neg to raise low-level detail. How do I accomplish an equivalent accurately and consistently in digital?

What I need is a film-to-digital technique convertor!

Cheers,

Graham.
Hi Graham:

Digital workflow process is very big part of what we teach in our workshops here at GetDPI, and since so many of our folks are coming from strong film backgrounds, we relate a lot of the raw processing adjustments in terms that will allow for an easy transition from the film side. We also cover localized image adjustment and enhancement techniques in Photoshop as they relate to traditional forms of print manipulation.

And BTW, emulating a film pre-flash is pretty easy in raw -- though this traditional step is actually enhanced significantly with proper use of the digital "fill" and "black" sliders. Once you get a look you like, you can save it a pre-set, and of course you can have multiple pre-sets ;)

Cheers,
 
There is a Sinar eMotion22 on ebay with what looks like a Rollei 6008 adapter (which is worth a bit by itself). Check with the buyer and as always caveat emptor.
The original listing was too expensive for me - and for everyone else as no-one bid! It was re-listed at a much more appropriate price, and after two of us bid in the last 40 seconds (or so), I lost - by 2 Euros.
To say I was disappointed is an understatement!

Graham.
 

Graham Mitchell

New member
The original listing was too expensive for me - and for everyone else as no-one bid! It was re-listed at a much more appropriate price, and after two of us bid in the last 40 seconds (or so), I lost - by 2 Euros.
To say I was disappointed is an understatement!

Graham.
I saw what happened and I was wondering who snapped it up! Sorry you missed out. You might think you lost out by only 2 euros but there's no way you can tell what the max bid of the highest bidder was.
 
You might think you lost out by only 2 euros but there's no way you can tell what the max bid of the highest bidder was.
If you look at the bidding, our initial bids were very close; his was 2 euros more than mine. He must then have realised someone else was bidding and upped his bid (to an uknown quantity, which I was not going to follow). So theoretically (plenty of ifs here), if I had bidded a few euros higher, and bidded later (perhaps by using using one of those sneaky auto-bidding tools) he wouldn't have had chance to place his second bid, and the back would be mine (insert maniacal laugh...)

Not that I'm sour! :rolleyes:
 

Dale Allyn

New member
Another Sinar eMotion22 is on ebay. Only 80% positive feedback. I'd do my homework and arrange personal pickup. Could turn out to be a bargain for someone: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140238444357&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:1123
I don't know the seller, and have no interest in the person or listing, but I looked at the feedback and it doesn't look as bad as would be implied by a rating of 80%. All positive (44) though one neutral against four positive in the last 12 months. We all have to be diligent in our eBay evaluations, and I always read as many specific feedback remarks as I can, rather than going by a percentage score.

BTW: I'm not suggesting that Graham meant anything more of the 80% rating. But the low rating made me curious and I wanted to see why it was such.

Cheers.

Correction: I think two neutrals total, but only one as a seller and one as a buyer. Otherwise positives. Just FYI.
 
Last edited:

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
Also, eBay has recently revised it feedback policies -- only BUYERS can leave feedback now. And it's about time so you don't have the whole retaliatory feedback issue to deal with, so I suspect we'll be seeing more honest feedback.
 
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