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Thread: Playing around with the Hy6

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    Playing around with the Hy6

    Still learning this new kit folks so don't expect the best that this back has to offer yet. Anyway, went down to the train bridge this evening to see if I catch a good sunset but no dice. So I shot the bridge instead. This first shot was underexposed by about two stops. So I bumped exposure up by two stops in Aperture to see the level of detail that was available. The third shot is a crop of the second to show the detail. My early impression is that this back generates excellent files that can be pushed hard in processing. A valuable feature for me

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    David,

    Very nice early shots. I almost jumped at your Leaf back since I own a Contax and live just up I75 from you, but really want a new 645 camera. I also want to put whichever back on an Alpa as well. I have been waiting to see and hear your impressions of the HY6 system. How does it handle, ergonomics, etc. Look forward to following your posts. Many thanks.

    Jim

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Jim,
    Didn't realize we were neighbors... when I get back from the workshop maybe we could meet up and you can handle the Hy6 for yourself. I like the camera a lot. I never shot with a camera with a handle before but now that I have I appreciate the ergonomics of this design. Compared to the Hy6 holding the Contax is a bit like holding a brick. I have both the WLF and prism finder with the Contax and almost always used the latter when shooting handheld. Using a WLF handheld takes some practice. I have to straighten the horizon on almost every shot I take handheld. Learning the menus also takes a bit of time. I got myself in a bit of a jam by making a wrong selection relating to automatic exposure and couldn't figure out what was "wrong" with the camera. Turns out nothing was wrong other than my lack of familiarity with it. In other words, typical learning curve stuff. A huge plus (to me) for this system is that you don't have to use dedicated software to work the files... simply convert them to DNG and work in your program of choice. I was never a fan of Leaf Capture 11, Flexcolor confused the heck out of me and I still can't figure my way around Sinar's eXposure. I much prefer working in either LR or Aperture to make my initial adjustments and then finish them off in CS3. As far as the Aptus 75S goes... you should have bought it It's an awesome back and the files are great. I suspect the Hy6 has the edge in higher ISO shooting based on the files Thierry posted but have yet to test this for myself. I've just ordered the Contax and Hasselblad adapters so I can use my other camera platforms (and glass) which is the main reason I decided to make the switch.

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Nice DR there David -- got to LOVE that, especially combined with the detail!
    Jack
    home: www.getdpi.com

    "Perfection is not attainable. But if we chase perfection, we can catch excellence."

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    How's the handling. Files are great, but.....

    for travel? can you see someone whipping this out in a european piazza? or in the Tuscan hills?

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by gogopix View Post
    How's the handling. Files are great, but.....

    for travel? can you see someone whipping this out in a european piazza? or in the Tuscan hills?
    Victor,
    Guess it depends on your shooting style. Based on some of the photos you've posted I can see you doing this with no problem. For me, I'm more likely to use the M8. The lenses at the wide end and normal are pretty small, i.e. 40mm, 50mm, 80mm. The 110 2.0 is a bit of a beast and probably twice the size of the Hassy version.

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    David,
    Really like these first out of the box shots you have. Lots of detail and DR is preserved, and the files do look capable of pushing around quite a bit. (This is what I noticed in Thierry's file.....very nice.)

    Did you convert these to DNG using the Brumbaer utility, or just take them right into Aperture after eXposure? (Pardon my not understanding the full workflow from camera to usable file.) I think Aperture does a very nice job on the conversion also, compared to ACR/PS, from what little I played with Thierry's file. With the new Dodge and Burn tool in Aperture, I think you could have kept that nice darker sky and still brought up the rest of the track/bridge and shoreline details easily. Not a criticism, just a thought, and how some of the other software tools, like Aperture, are making working on these sorts of files an incredible option.

    This looks very good.

    LJ

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    Subscriber gogopix's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Ok, David
    the perennial question

    ISO 800
    pushed 2-3 stops, 100% crops
    we expect within the hour,
    raw,
    DNG
    Tiff
    and jpgs for kodak 11x16 printing

    give you another half hour for that

    So, David, how do like being and early adopter?!!

    best regards
    Victor

    PS not kidding, but hey, take all day if you need it!

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Victor, you KNOW you're going to end with one of these anyway, so why not just go for it now and save yourself the grief of anticipatory pre-purchase research?

    ,
    Jack
    home: www.getdpi.com

    "Perfection is not attainable. But if we chase perfection, we can catch excellence."

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    Subscriber gogopix's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    WHAT? and miss all the fun

    However, let's see; Thierry is in Thailand, Lance is in SJ with the team...

    Hmmmmm

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Why not join us in SJ and see for yourself? And let's face it, this is THE "Mercedes" of the camera world!

    ,
    Jack
    home: www.getdpi.com

    "Perfection is not attainable. But if we chase perfection, we can catch excellence."

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Flesher View Post
    Victor, you KNOW you're going to end with one of these anyway, so why not just go for it now and save yourself the grief of anticipatory pre-purchase research?

    ,
    Jack,
    I have been "sensing" the exact same conclusion the past week or so

    Honestly, I have been on and off the fence myself with respect to the Hy6 or the H3DII. Putting aside some of the other discussion, being hard to do with Marc's images, and reasoning for his choices, this Hy6 is looking to be a very sexy piece of kit that can crank out some great looking files for sure.

    Based on the rather thorough and varied discussions we have had on this forum lately, I think 90+% of that "research" has been done for a lot of folks, and from this point, it becomes a matter of use and finances

    LJ

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by gogopix View Post
    Ok, David
    the perennial question

    ISO 800
    pushed 2-3 stops, 100% crops
    we expect within the hour,
    raw,
    DNG
    Tiff
    and jpgs for kodak 11x16 printing

    give you another half hour for that

    So, David, how do like being and early adopter?!!

    best regards
    Victor

    PS not kidding, but hey, take all day if you need it!
    Victor,
    I was hoping to leave the early adopter status for Guy. Fortunately, Thierry is available for after hours consultations and has been quite helpful. The good news is I no longer have any hair to pull out Doubt I will have time for your tests before leaving for San Juan but maybe while there Jack, Guy and I can work some up. Jack has the best idea... join us in Puerto Rico and shoot with it yourself. We'll have a blast.

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by LJL View Post
    David,
    Really like these first out of the box shots you have. Lots of detail and DR is preserved, and the files do look capable of pushing around quite a bit. (This is what I noticed in Thierry's file.....very nice.)

    Did you convert these to DNG using the Brumbaer utility, or just take them right into Aperture after eXposure? (Pardon my not understanding the full workflow from camera to usable file.) I think Aperture does a very nice job on the conversion also, compared to ACR/PS, from what little I played with Thierry's file. With the new Dodge and Burn tool in Aperture, I think you could have kept that nice darker sky and still brought up the rest of the track/bridge and shoreline details easily. Not a criticism, just a thought, and how some of the other software tools, like Aperture, are making working on these sorts of files an incredible option.

    This looks very good.

    LJ
    My current workflow is to shoot to CF card, put the card in the reader, convert to DNG via Brumbaer to a folder on my hard drive and then import the images into Aperture (leaving them in their current location). This can also be done in eXposure, but Brumbaer is just so simple. As far as processing goes, I skimped on these and didn't do much of anything. I need to learn the camera's metering better so that my initial exposures are better. Still nice to know all is not lost if you don't nail it.

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by David K View Post
    My current workflow is to shoot to CF card, put the card in the reader, convert to DNG via Brumbaer to a folder on my hard drive and then import the images into Aperture (leaving them in their current location). This can also be done in eXposure, but Brumbaer is just so simple. As far as processing goes, I skimped on these and didn't do much of anything. I need to learn the camera's metering better so that my initial exposures are better. Still nice to know all is not lost if you don't nail it.
    Thanks, David. That is what I was thinking, and how I handle things now from my other gear. As for the camera metering.....that does seem to be something to get used to, not only on the Hy6, but others as well. My first reaction to your file, as well as to Thierry's garden shot was that things were leaning toward underexposure by a stop or more. The good news is that the files are robust and can handle pushing in process without losing anything, and not having the shadows block up. That is just my initial impression, and others may be much better to explain/critique. The underexposure may be real and designed to prevent blowing things out, much like Nikon film cameras always were. Not a bad thing in the case of the Sinar files.

    Looking forward to any and all that you share on this wonderful beast, including the SJ stuff that you folks may play around with. Please do not spend too much time testing, but rather just enjoy the shooting, and if there are some easy tests for comparisons available, great.

    LJ

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    Senior Member Steve Hendrix's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    I wanted to let everyone here know - and this may be better in a separate thread - that I will be in Orlando, Florida June 13 along with Dave McRitchie of SinarBron.

    We will have Hy6's and lots and lots of lenses, as well as some other items in Sinar's arsenal, including some Broncolor gear too.

    We do not have a location yet, but will come up with one shortly.

    This will be a hands-on day for:

    *Hy6 Cameras
    *eMotion 75LV Digital Back (with the new screen and revolving adapter)
    *eMotion 75LV on several other cameras (via adapters)
    *45 degree finder
    *90 degree finder
    *Waist level finder
    *Sinar Exposure V6.0 Software
    *AFD lenses - 50mm, 80mm, and 180mm
    *Non-AFD lenses, including:
    -40mm f/3.5 Super Angulon HFT PQ
    -40mm f/4.5 Zeiss Distagon HFT PQ
    -50mm f/4.0 Zeiss Distagon HFT PQ
    -55mm f/4.5 PCS
    -60mm f/3.5 Zeiss Distagon HFT PQ
    -80mm f/2.8 Zeiss Planar HFT PQ
    -120mm f/4.0 Makro-Planar PQ
    -120mm f/4.0 Makro-Planar PQS
    -150mm f/4.0 Sonnar PQ
    -180mm f/2.8 Tele-Xenar
    -250mm f/5.6 PQ
    -300mm f/4 HFT APO-Tele-Xenar
    -350mm f/5.6 Tele-Tessar PQ

    Looking forward to the 13th!

    Steve Hendrix
    www.pratlanta.com/digital.php

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    what's with FLORIDA?
    isnt it getting HOT there?

    I would love to go to SJ however, daughter's graduation and Wales trip are crimping ANY extra travel till july) (and 6/13 is my wife's birthday. I know, I know, I should get her the Hy6/75LV for her Bday!

    anyway, I do hope to see in Philly with the H3D

    WHy again am I doing this???

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    No excuses i am missing my wife's 50th BD on May 16. I am having the group sing to her at dinner. LOL
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

    www.guymancusophotography.com

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Steve,
    About time you got around to our state. We don't seem to be getting much respect down here since we decided the "hanging chad" election. I'll plan on coming up to see you and trying out some of your goodies.

    Victor,
    It's in your genes.. you can't help yourself

    David

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy Mancuso View Post
    No excuses i am missing my wife's 50th BD on May 16. I am having the group sing to her at dinner. LOL
    You are in deep "you know what" my friend...

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    We will just drink a lot that night so i don't feel the pain of the Voodoo needles.


    As you know making is right cost a fortune
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

    www.guymancusophotography.com

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by David K View Post
    Steve,
    About time you got around to our state. We don't seem to be getting much respect down here since we decided the "hanging chad" election. I'll plan on coming up to see you and trying out some of your goodies.

    David
    Been thinking the same thing. By the way, there are 2 batteries and a charger headed your way for tomorrow delivery.

    Steve Hendrix
    www.ppratlanta.com/digital.php

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy Mancuso View Post
    We will just drink a lot that night so i don't feel the pain of the Voodoo needles.


    As you know making is right cost a fortune
    The only more problematic issue for you, Guy, may be missing both her birthday celebration AND wearing the numbers off your credit card(s) with even more toys you buy

    Yep...making it right later is going to be expensive....but worth it

    LJ

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    You know pay backs are a bitch.

    this one is gonna hurt.
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

    www.guymancusophotography.com

  25. #25
    thsinar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    LJ,

    my file was PURPOSELY under-exposed, and I did not use any metering, but the histogram on the back's display.

    It is always better, in a normal situation, to get the exposure on the spot, thus using the "best" part of the sensor's dynamic range.

    This being said: when using the lightmeter, one has the possibility of 3 methods (average - centre weight - spot). Depending which one is set and how this is used, the metering can be completely out. Apart from this, I have made perfect exposed files when using it and "balance" as indicated in the display of the handle.

    There is no "designed"/"built-in" under-exposure.

    Best regards,
    Thierry

    Quote Originally Posted by LJL View Post
    My first reaction to your file, as well as to Thierry's garden shot was that things were leaning toward underexposure by a stop or more....

    ... The underexposure may be real and designed to prevent blowing things out, much like Nikon film cameras always were. Not a bad thing in the case of the Sinar files.

    LJ

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Thierry,
    I understand what you are saying. Thank you for the clarification on how the Sinar Hy6 and back record the meter reading. The use of the correct metering mode, and the placement of the metering patch is important to getting a proper reading for correct exposure. How sensitive those areas are (average, center weight and spot) can be critical. My own observations with different camera systems is that the meters are "tuned" to yield a best approximation for exposure, but some err more toward slight over-exposure, such as Canon has recently, while others may chose a slight under-exposure, as Nikon has for many years and models, even today. I am not suggesting that Sinar is doing the same, but it would not surprise me if their metering method had its own correction. That is fine if it does, and one just needs to learn a preference.

    In David's shot, it looked as though the sky was dominating the reading, hence the darker image that showed what I would call under-exposure. What is interesting is that a larger portion of the image is actually a darker subject, so one could expect metering to boost exposure to compensate. If David was using area or spot and had selected a portion of the image with more sky, his original exposure looks about right....a couple stops dark to compensate for the sky. If he was using an average reading, I would have thought it to be a bit brighter overall to compensate for all the darker foreground, but that would just be a guess or speculation on my part, not knowing what kind of "pattern" for reading, and how sensitive each is on the Hy6 and Sinar back.

    So, my apologies if it sounded as though I was attributing something to the Sinar kit that was beyond actual or design. It was just my impression from seeing David's image. Still does not take anything away from how robust the files actually are, and how much detail and DR they contain. That is all good. I know that you said you had purposefully underexposed your shot. My impression upon opening the RAW file you posted was that it was at least 2 stops darker, and it also already had some brightness applied already, so I was guessing total underexposure of nearly 3 stops. Only you know for sure what the real light was, and what you specifically metered, and I am not challenging that at all. I am merely giving my "guesstimate" of how much underexposure both images appear to have from my own experiences of working with lots of files (not Sinar).

    Does that help explain my comment and set things a bit straighter?

    LJ

  27. #27
    thsinar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    hi LJ,

    nothing to apologize at all, and not even an argument between us: I do absolutely agree on your observations.

    Some more information about light-metering, which are relevant when it comes to have a well-exposed file:

    the first question one has to ask, is to what the actual (nominal) ISO is corresponding and related. There are of course ISO norms, but those are rather thought for the consumer field and leave open a big "playing gap". Therefore, the manufacturer has to decide by himself to what this ISO should be related.

    When doing a lightmetering, the result should lead to a medium grey (Lab 50/0/0) rendered as medium grey. One has to be aware here, that a RGB medium grey does not necessarily correspond to 128/128/128, respectively a centered histogram does not necessarily lead to a correct exposure.

    This is strongly depending on the Gamma value of the chosen Colour Working Space: in sRGB, a RGB value of 119/119/119 correspond to a medium grey. In ECI RGB, a medium grey is given with a value of 101/101/101.

    The goal of the ISO sensitivity "finding" should therefore be to reach the above value for a medium grey, with ALSO taking in count the used "contrast curve". This has lead to the value of ISO 100 as nominal sensitivity for the eMotion 75, and ISO 50 for the eMotion 54 (resp. eMotion 22), with a "default" or "standard" contrast curve of "3" in Captureshop/eXposure.

    When one makes use of a "linear" contrast curve, one typically "looses" 1/3 of a f-stop in the sensitivity.

    Best regards,
    Thierry





    Quote Originally Posted by LJL View Post
    Thierry,
    I understand what you are saying. Thank you for the clarification on how the Sinar Hy6 and back record the meter reading. The use of the correct metering mode, and the placement of the metering patch is important to getting a proper reading for correct exposure. How sensitive those areas are (average, center weight and spot) can be critical. My own observations with different camera systems is that the meters are "tuned" to yield a best approximation for exposure, but some err more toward slight over-exposure, such as Canon has recently, while others may chose a slight under-exposure, as Nikon has for many years and models, even today. I am not suggesting that Sinar is doing the same, but it would not surprise me if their metering method had its own correction. That is fine if it does, and one just needs to learn a preference.

    In David's shot, it looked as though the sky was dominating the reading, hence the darker image that showed what I would call under-exposure. What is interesting is that a larger portion of the image is actually a darker subject, so one could expect metering to boost exposure to compensate. If David was using area or spot and had selected a portion of the image with more sky, his original exposure looks about right....a couple stops dark to compensate for the sky. If he was using an average reading, I would have thought it to be a bit brighter overall to compensate for all the darker foreground, but that would just be a guess or speculation on my part, not knowing what kind of "pattern" for reading, and how sensitive each is on the Hy6 and Sinar back.

    So, my apologies if it sounded as though I was attributing something to the Sinar kit that was beyond actual or design. It was just my impression from seeing David's image. Still does not take anything away from how robust the files actually are, and how much detail and DR they contain. That is all good. I know that you said you had purposefully underexposed your shot. My impression upon opening the RAW file you posted was that it was at least 2 stops darker, and it also already had some brightness applied already, so I was guessing total underexposure of nearly 3 stops. Only you know for sure what the real light was, and what you specifically metered, and I am not challenging that at all. I am merely giving my "guesstimate" of how much underexposure both images appear to have from my own experiences of working with lots of files (not Sinar).

    Does that help explain my comment and set things a bit straighter?

    LJ

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    Super Duper
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by David K View Post
    Still learning this new kit folks so don't expect the best that this back has to offer yet. Anyway, went down to the train bridge this evening to see if I catch a good sunset but no dice. So I shot the bridge instead. This first shot was underexposed by about two stops. So I bumped exposure up by two stops in Aperture to see the level of detail that was available. The third shot is a crop of the second to show the detail. My early impression is that this back generates excellent files that can be pushed hard in processing. A valuable feature for me
    David, as I am still seriously considering this whole end of the spectrum to replace my RZ/Hassey-V 6X7/6X6 systems for studio and some location work (the H3D-II/39 645 will remain in the arsenal) ... I have a few questions.

    In the 3rd detail image you posted there is noticeable red fringing on the edge of the sign and other areas where the sky butts up against a darker edge. What lens was used for this shot and what are your thoughts concerning this?

    I ask this because it is an issue that can present itself when using strobes to back light products, and can also manifest itself when shooting items with specular highlights like jewelry or many highly finished industrial products ... all of which are frequent assignments I would be using this gear for.

    For example I just completed an assignment shooting a bunch of 2009 GM wheels that all had to be backlit to knock out the neg. areas because they would be appearing on a white catalog page. CA or color fringing is not an option even if correctable in PS because the quantity of images precludes such additional labor... and the client has an eagle eye for such things.

    I would show you an example of this except I need prior approval because of a non-disclosure agreement ... these are 2009 products not yet public.

    Your thoughts?

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Marc, the lens that was used for this capture was the 80 2.8 PQS that comes with the kit. My feeling about the color fringing you refer to is that this is a poor image to judge whether this would present itself in your application. I say this because the image is seriously underexposed and, for example, the color fringing in the netting protecting the light on the far right of the image does not show in the image prior to the exposure adjustment, which leads me to believe that if you had a properly exposed image you might not have this issue at all. If you will suggest a test shot that would better address this issue I'll be happy to take it for you and post the results...

  30. #30
    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    We can do this in San Juan also when David and i are together and actually shoot a side by side of the same scene with a P45 plus , P25 or P30 plus and my ZD backs.

    David we can shoot a corner of a building against a sky and expose for the shadows and see if we get fringing on the edges of the building. Or the same thing with trees into the sky looking up. Two really good test for fringing
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

    www.guymancusophotography.com

  31. #31
    Senior Member irakly's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    marc, chances are, you won't be using the 2.8/80 planar for this. the lens of choice is schneider 150 apo-symmar, which is just as good as contax 120 apo makro. no fringing, unless it comes from the back

    Quote Originally Posted by fotografz View Post
    David, as I am still seriously considering this whole end of the spectrum to replace my RZ/Hassey-V 6X7/6X6 systems for studio and some location work (the H3D-II/39 645 will remain in the arsenal) ... I have a few questions.

    In the 3rd detail image you posted there is noticeable red fringing on the edge of the sign and other areas where the sky butts up against a darker edge. What lens was used for this shot and what are your thoughts concerning this?

    I ask this because it is an issue that can present itself when using strobes to back light products, and can also manifest itself when shooting items with specular highlights like jewelry or many highly finished industrial products ... all of which are frequent assignments I would be using this gear for.

    For example I just completed an assignment shooting a bunch of 2009 GM wheels that all had to be backlit to knock out the neg. areas because they would be appearing on a white catalog page. CA or color fringing is not an option even if correctable in PS because the quantity of images precludes such additional labor... and the client has an eagle eye for such things.

    I would show you an example of this except I need prior approval because of a non-disclosure agreement ... these are 2009 products not yet public.

    Your thoughts?

  32. #32
    Subscriber gogopix's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Still getting the feeling that the HB/H3D and Hy6 are in the "studio" camp while the Contax, Mamiya and even HB V are more 'outdoor' cameras.

    David, am I wrong? but you have had the Contax, yes? isn't this quiyte a handful compared to that?

    In fact, as I look at these backs and cameras, the more I think it is the glass and feel that dominate, rather than other features, for outsidew work.

    The flash synch, WB, 'look' etc seem pretty much the same.

    For IQ, it will come down to glass

    For usability, it will come down to easy of handling..

    Everytime I pick up the Contax it just makes me so #%^%%$%^ mad that nobody is picking it up.

    Ah well, at least the Sinar has a C645 mount and can be mounted on the Alpa (yes??)

    I may just go that route. I do then have the option of the Dalsa vs Kodak (I do think thgere are trades that the board cant eliminate)

    So, who's got a deal on a SInar for me!!??

    Victor

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Victor - spill your guts .whats wrong with your P45+? Why do uu need a different back?

  34. #34
    Subscriber gogopix's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6



    Absolutely nothing! (but don't tell anyone)

    But I do have a second Contax body sitting there and I was looking for a backup
    maybe a sinar
    maybe the 30+

    Actually, I am tired of swapping the back (the P45+) from my Alpa, and I am ready to invest in some more lenses. T^he idea is to have the C645 with faster lenses (incl HB) and a higher Iso back for interiors on travel, and then keep the P45+ on the Alpa with Schneiders for high res, outside and trekking. Often I can get6 around town, the catherdrals etc with anything, but need something lighter for the trail. If I can get a decent rangefinder I am actually thinking of t6rekking with the ALpa TC and a 24/35 and 47/60 (much lighter than comparable C645 lenses) and use the C645 with C and HB V (like the 180, or 40 or 110/2) for town work.

    Regards
    Victor

  35. #35
    thsinar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Yes.

    Thierry

    Quote Originally Posted by gogopix View Post

    Ah well, at least the Sinar has a C645 mount and can be mounted on the Alpa (yes??)

    Victor

  36. #36
    Workshop Member lance_schad's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Victor,
    You can just get another Phase back in the Contax mount and use it between your ALPA and Contax, thus having one work-flow and one set of batteries. You have been satisfied with the Phase-One image quality after all these years?
    Plus if you go for a P30+ for your Contax system you will have up to 1600iso.
    Just my 2 cents.
    L
    Lance Schad
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    305-394-3196 cell | 305-534-5702 office
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  37. #37
    thsinar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    with the Sinar eMotion 75 as well:

    http://forum.getdpi.com/forum/showth...?t=1683&page=6

    Best regards,
    Thierry

    Quote Originally Posted by lance_schad View Post
    Victor,

    Plus if you go for a P30+ for your Contax system you will have up to 1600iso.

    L
    Lance Schad
    Capture Integration - Miami/Atlanta
    305-394-3196 cell | 305-534-5702 office
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  38. #38
    Subscriber gogopix's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Lance,

    Yes that's the trade. What would be good would be an underexposed shot, at 1600 ISO on the P30+ to compare with the new board 74LV.

    I say underexposed, but only part needs to be. I would like to 'push' similar to the 74lv shot. In that, I was able to push 3 stops beyong 800 for an equivalent ISO 6400 . Pushing the P30+ by 2 stops would be the same.

    I will give Phase the better resolution, and workflow. It's all about getting the high ISO.

    Now in the case of the P30+ the 74lv has the advantage (31/33 MP? yes?) Then again, the P30+ is considerably cheaper, no?
    Victor

  39. #39
    thsinar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    eMotion 75 LV, Victor.

    This number comes from 7'000x5'000 pixels (exactly 6668 x 4992 pixels = 33.3 million pixels).

    No harm!



    Thierry


    Quote Originally Posted by gogopix View Post
    ... with the new board 74LV.

    Victor

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by gogopix View Post
    David, am I wrong? but you have had the Contax, yes? isn't this quiyte a handful compared to that?
    Victor
    Don't know where you got that impression Victor but these pics should answer it for you. Contax has RRS L plate and prism finder making it larger, film back is obviously smaller than digital back. Hy6 has a RRS plate on the bottom as well. Both with their respective 80mm lenses. The Sinar is obviously smaller but when you change lenses, e.g. 110 F/2, the Sinar can catch up pretty quick weight-wise
    Last edited by David K; 12th May 2008 at 09:48.

  41. #41
    Subscriber gogopix's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by thsinar View Post
    eMotion 75 LV, Victor.

    This number comes from 7'000x5'000 pixels (exactly 6668 x 4992 pixels = 33.3 million pixels).

    No harm!



    Thierry
    Sorry I keep thinking of Son's MS work with the 54H I think. Very impressive.
    The eMotion75LV (just need to practice this 65 yo brain! :-) is new to me since I also follow Graham and his 54LV?

    don't worry, I've called it a Phose, a Phise, and when the back didnt register (the first P45+ I tried) a lot worse than being one off!

    Regards
    Victor

  42. #42
    thsinar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    I don't!



    Thierry


    Quote Originally Posted by gogopix View Post

    don't worry, I've called it a ...!

    Regards
    Victor

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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Just in case anybody is interested in the relative size of the 110 f/2 lenses that I mentioned above. Victor, you would like the Rollei version.. it will remind you of your Benz..

  44. #44
    Subscriber Member Chuck Jones's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    110 f2 in the corner pocket anyone?

  45. #45
    Subscriber gogopix's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    alright, David, I don't have a second MF, so I decided to put the Contax THE WAY I CARRY IT!
    up against.... hmmm a 35mm

    the R9/DMR

    interesting. in the hand, one doesnt need L brackets, and the battery pack is old news. The new lithiums? I used only three batteries in Contax for 2500 shots..

    Victor
    Last edited by gogopix; 25th January 2015 at 17:22.

  46. #46
    Subscriber robsteve's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    With all this talk about high ISO and the larger digital backs, are there any seriously fast lenses for these medium format cameras? All I have seen posted here are f2. Any f1.4 lenses?

  47. #47
    Subscriber gogopix's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    At a 30% increase in size the weight (goes by cube) could be over 2x the weight(closer to 2.5x)
    these lenses are already pretty heavy. cost would be prohibitive.
    Now I do own a SK 300/2.0 and it weighs 16b lbs!

    My experience says the extreme open apertures of the Leicas are frnakly a cusriosity or for amateur snaps. I've never seen what looks like a pro shot in the modern sense. Do they look like C-B shots? yes, from a grain and old film fuzziness POV, but ain't none of us another C-B

    On the Leicas I usually go up a 1/2 or full stop. (still better than other lenses) and yet with the MF I find wide open they do much better, though I usually go up 1/2 stop anyway.

    Victor

  48. #48
    Super Duper
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    Quote Originally Posted by gogopix View Post
    alright, David, I don't have a second MF, so I decided to put the Contax THE WAY I CARRY IT!
    up against.... hmmm a 35mm

    the R9/DMR

    interesting. in the hand, one doesnt need L brackets, and the battery pack is old news. The new lithiums? I used only three batteries in Contax for 2500 shots..

    Victor
    Yep, size comparisons are fun.

    This one with a fully integrated MF camera AND a 90 degree prism finder (waist level finder available) ... it delivers almost twice the megs of the reigning King of high rez 35mm digital, does it with a much larger sensor area, while remaining smaller in size. Very easy travel and field camera.

    Note the large focus assist on the Hassey, and where the stop down and mirror up buttons are located in the grip indent, and other key controls on the top just behind the shutter button, where you can activate them without taking your eye from the finder (where all the info is displayed when you press the buttons.) The whole grip is the Lithium battery, and lasts for entire jobs.

    For extensive extended shooting in the field there is the small but powerful Firewire 800 "pocket rocket" Image Bank-II ... it powers the back with easily found Sony Lithium video batteries (same as powers the CFV and CF backs), and allows up to 1000 images to be captured as fast as you can shoot... all while performing selection architecture to segregate files against corruption, plus allows you to divide job jackets scene-to-scene. The H system optionally also allows GPS data to be captured with each shot.

    When the back is mounted to a view camera, the software not only provides Live View and magnification, it has the option of a sonar like audio feed back to zero in optimal critical focus. I've used this, and it works like a charm.
    Last edited by fotografz; 23rd July 2008 at 02:27.

  49. #49
    Senior Member irakly's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    marc, stop murdering people with your product photography

  50. #50
    Subscriber gogopix's Avatar
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    Re: Playing around with the Hy6

    But it makes the point; except for the SMALL matter of cost, MF in general seems more 'handy' than a 35 mm (except M8

    yup the hassey in these shots looks real cute, and pretty 'handy'

    nice PS work reducing the HB size by 50% marc!


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