Studio System Difference

[Mike M]

THis is just my experience and others are free to disagree...

But I really think that the OP's Canon + L zoom lenses is a perfect setup for shooting regular people, portraits etc. The L lenses are sharp enough but not "too sharp"...they have just about the right blend of sharpness and contrast to make for pleasing skintones (when combined with good lighting)

I would never use any of the high end DMF systems for shooting regular people unless working with a seriously good retoucher LOL. IT takes some serious retouching skills to deal with the sharpness and detail associated with the higher end DMF in combination with regular folk.

IT's really hard to make regular people look good...especially when there isn't the luxury of using great stylists and hair/makeup. I really think that DMF is just unforgiving for regular people. OF course, others may have a different experience....but that's mine. The last thing that regular people need is lenses that are too sharp and files with too much detail. IT's just not necessary, and can actually be a step backwards.

 

[David Schneider]

Mike,

I have to deal with super sensitive high school girls who go from 95 lbs. to 275 lbs., who don't listen to what we tell them to wear (like chubby girls wearing sleeveless), etc. My take is it's a lot easier to make regular people (and irregular people) look good now than it did just 5 years ago. There are all sorts of filters to soften skin and leave eyes and hair sharp for example.

I understand the too sharp a file comment completely. Believe me, when I have to photograph myself the first thing I do is grab my stylus and break out the Photoshop and get rid of those wrinkles, blemishes, and tuck in my belly and jowls.

I think one of the things that does add to the mf being so sharp is, as Guy reminded me, you have to go up a couple of f-stops to get the same dof. I don't care if it's my Canon lenses or what, just doing that will increase sharpness of image since all glass is better not wide open.

 

[David Schneider]

Plus you need to increase shutter speed as well and your going to need some long glass if this is what you are using today in 35mm

Guy,

Why will I need to increase shutter speed in-studio when using studio strobes? Is mirror slam vibration that much of a problem? For awhile I was using lock-up on mirror on my Canon 5d on camera stand, but stopped. Didn't see enough benefit to keep using it as I'd forget to take it off. (Nice how some mf cameras have mirror lock-up button or knob on camera body rather than buried in custom functions in lcd of camera.)

 

[Alexander DeVoe]

Alex,

I haven't tested a Hassie 50-100 for feel, but looking at specs the difference in weight isn't that much between my current 70-200 f2.8 lens, just about 5-6 oz. more (I'd guess that's about 400 grams or so). I don't do much hand holding anyway so I don't see it as an issue. Those times when I do have extended out of studio use of the 70-200 are at an occasional wedding or sports event and then it's monopod time. I have hand held a Mamiya RB67 and it's not a pleasant experience, not one I'd like to have again!

I've shot with the Canon 70-200mm and it is much more friendly. The difference that is most noticeable for me is simply the diameter of the lens. The cannon takes a 77mm filter and the Hasse a 95mm :bugeyes:. I'm 6'5" and have big hands, and it was still a bit on the big side. But it sounds like hand holdability is lower on the list of crucial features for you. I got good results hand holding, but it certainly wasn't as agile as a Canon+70-200.

Why will I need to increase shutter speed in-studio when using studio strobes? Is mirror slam vibration that much of a problem? For awhile I was using lock-up on mirror on my Canon 5d on camera stand, but stopped. Didn't see enough benefit to keep using it as I'd forget to take it off. (Nice how some mf cameras have mirror lock-up button or knob on camera body rather than buried in custom functions in lcd of camera.)

The mirror is THAT much bigger. I noticed this right away. The hasse (I don't know about Phase) has a mirror/shutter delay function that you can custom set the length for which helps with this. I had it turned on, and I didn't notice the delay, and it did seem to help. The leaf shutters on either brand certainly make a difference as well. Just much smoother, in my opinion.

-Alex

 

[fotografz]

I'll chime in here as I use a MFD for shooting "regular people" all of the time ... I do weddings with one, as well as portraits, family groups, pets ... , etc. Studio, and on-location.

"Abandon Hope All Ye Who Enter Here" is actually no joke. One thing I can say with certainty is DO NOT try one for this type of work unless you have the capital investment to get it ... because it is profoundly disappointing to go back to anything else once you see the results on the monitor I sometimes do a mix of stuff with the H4D/40 (H3D/31 prior to that), and a "back-up" Sony A900 with Zeiss glass ... and more often than not, I quip to myself that I wish I had made the Sony shots with the Hassey.

I use a 35-90 for "environmental portraits" and groups of 3 or more ... and the 100/2.2 for waist-up portraits (dreamy Bokeh) ... plus either a 150 + 1.7X or 210 for long lens stuff. I also use a waist level finder occasionally for a lower perspective ... saves the knees ... LOL!

No problem carrying it for a wedding shoot. One lens on the camera, two lenses and a Metz speed-light in a Think Tank lens bag for mobile work (like at a wedding or roaming locations for portraits). I use an Arca Quick Release plate with dual connectors and have a hand strap and a "bouncy" shoulder strap installed so I don't have fatigue issues even after a full wedding shoot (at least not any more than with a Pro DSLR). In low ambient I use a Monopod with a RRS QR head.

Can't speak to other choices, but with the H cameras using a Metz speed-light or potato masher, the camera takes over all control functions and you can comp the flash without removing your eye from the viewfinder ... I've found it to be more accurate and faster than any DSLR I've ever used ... and I've used all of the latest greatest from Nikon, Canon and Sony. Plus, you can assign a user button to fire a manual WB shot for very fast changes of WB in different lighting scenarios.

As to resolution and detail, that is more a function of lighting than how sharp the results are. Having more photo data to work with is actually a good thing when applying some of the current portrait software or modern effects so popular these days for weddings and senior portraits ... it tends to have less odd artifacts in some circumstances. Much easier to deal with in MFD in a selective manner. It is amazing what you can do in post with all that Dynamic Range and Resolution.


-Marc

 

[Stan Lawrence]

I'm also in the market for a mf digital.... my practice is limited to families on the beach, I use my studio primarily for the occasional pr portrait and sales. After using the RZ with the dm back, I realized my old eyes don't focus like they used to, so I'm leaning toward the Mamiya DM33. Since most of my business is wall portraits, the MF difference should be very helpful, not to mention the increased perception with the MF. Anyone using the this camera for location portraiture?

 

[fotografz]

I'm also in the market for a mf digital.... my practice is limited to families on the beach, I use my studio primarily for the occasional pr portrait and sales. After using the RZ with the dm back, I realized my old eyes don't focus like they used to, so I'm leaning toward the Mamiya DM33. Since most of my business is wall portraits, the MF difference should be very helpful, not to mention the increased perception with the MF. Anyone using the this camera for location portraiture?

Frankly, if I were shooting that sort of beach stuff on a regular basis, I'd look at the fully weather and dust sealed Leica S2 ... IF I had the money that is ... LOL!

-Marc

 

[David Schneider]

I'm also in the market for a mf digital.... my practice is limited to families on the beach, I use my studio primarily for the occasional pr portrait and sales. After using the RZ with the dm back, I realized my old eyes don't focus like they used to, so I'm leaning toward the Mamiya DM33. Since most of my business is wall portraits, the MF difference should be very helpful, not to mention the increased perception with the MF. Anyone using the this camera for location portraiture?

Hey Stan,

IF, and that a big if, Pentax ever got their new 654d to North America and in numbers and additional lenses, that's a thought for you as it is suppose to be weather sealed. Also has that cool horizon line that might be a help with sky/ocean line. If it's at PhotoExpo or whatever they call in in NYC next month, I'll take a look.

 

[Stan Lawrence]

Hey Stan,

IF, and that a big if, Pentax ever got their new 654d to North America and in numbers and additional lenses, that's a thought for you as it is suppose to be weather sealed. Also has that cool horizon line that might be a help with sky/ocean line. If it's at PhotoExpo or whatever they call in in NYC next month, I'll take a look.

David-
Any idea on the price point? I'm guessing body and short tele/tele zoom would work, I'll keep my canons for back up......

 

[David Schneider]

Stan,

There's some reviews and videos of Pentax 645d. I've noticed over the last week or so they are popping up on eBay from Japanese sellers so that must mean there's good supply there. I'll look for them if they are at PhotoExpo in Oct.

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/pentax645d-1st.shtml

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF310u4vmts&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xd1V58LsKtc