stephengilbert
Active member
"Ouch! It looks like Alpa is eating their own words on this topic."
Are they? It looks like the ALPA ring is measured in feet or meters.
Are they? It looks like the ALPA ring is measured in feet or meters.
Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!
Not sure I would agree here. On the Alpa (or Cambo) you can use masks for all the lenses on the finder with indications for shift in millimeters (on all sides, so circular). These indications work surprisingly well (at least on my Cambo). On the Arca the indications are only every 5 millimeters.Another very useful difference in the field is in the ability to incorporate untethered shift with the Arca-Swiss R cameras. For example, in order to shift untethered with the new Alpa STC (or the older Max), you still have to take the digital back on and off the camera body to frame every shot. With the Arca-Swiss, you can compose with shift using their viewfinder, which allows one to frame and align the digital back without removing it from the body.
Thank you PaulCMB_,
Maybe this will help.
Here is a chart showing every increment measured on the HPF ring for the Schneider 72mm.
It shows the increments in both meters and feet and even includes measurements for all of the extension tubes.
There will eventually be a chart like this for every lens in the Alpa lineup, but for practical use of course the chart is not needed (in my opinion).
Best regards,
Paul
OK, I agree. I am over-compensating here for the lack of an Arca-Swiss website. My apologies to Alpa users.klepacki, glad you love your arca but with all due respect, i agree with thomas. . . .the alpa finder masks work well and btw the phase lcd is useful too for this purpose. i own a max and other alpa cameras. in the field, i never ever had to take the back off from my max to frame any shot for stitching or non-stitching.
rh
I'v test arca finder, linhof finder, cambo finder... and while it is not perfect, i've found the arca one to be the most usable... but i really prefer the bino with the 69 ground glass... i can see the entire scene even when stitching is applied !klepacki, glad you love your arca but with all due respect, i agree with thomas. . . .the alpa finder masks work well and btw the phase lcd is useful too for this purpose. i own a max and other alpa cameras. in the field, i never ever had to take the back off from my max to frame any shot for stitching or non-stitching.
rh
the Arca finder is by far the best of the optical finders - little distortion and very bright.I'v test arca finder, linhof finder, cambo finder... and while it is not perfect, i've found the arca one to be the most usable... but i really prefer the bino with the 69 ground glass... i can see the entire scene even when stitching is applied !
Hi Jurgen,Thank you Paul
for posting the chart . That is exactly what I meant with "a little table" .
Looking at the distance scale (for example image in #52) I understand that the space between any marker on the precision scale corresponds to one degree of 270 and the space between the longer marks equals to 5 degrees .
If that is true , I ask myself , why do we not have the shorter marks on the other side of the scale ring as well ? ? ?
As the short marks are missing there , you will not be able to focus precisely between two 5 degree markers and the lenses chart wont help you either .
I hope that the ALPA people will see what I mean and explain the HPF ring
in a bit more detail .
The "clip" you refer to is NOT a lock. It is a quick release that dis-engages from the threaded adjustment mechanism allowing you to make quick coarse adjustments very quickly. Once you re-engage the mechanism, nothing is "locked" ... you then can adjust the shifts as intended ... very finely. The shifts do no move on their own ... no need to "lock" them down.The movements are of course geared and allow very fine adjustments. However after adjusting the movements you have to lock the gear thread with a little clip:
Jeff Turner;24601 I just want to shoot tethered to an iPad....please!!! Somebody??? Anybody???:confused:[/QUOTE said:Jeff, the ipad is a toy with a great screen. Its all show and no balls.
You will never get any kind of MF raw processing /preview with it as it is configured, and that is unlikely to change.
You either need a serious processor in a tablet PC (think windows) or use a PowerBook as your real machine and have an iPad or iPhone mirror that.
I find that that releasing the tension clip allows me to do a coarse adjustment. When you reseat the clip it sometimes (due to the thread alignment) will move the camera (or you need to turn the thread slightly) as you describe. You simply just turn the adjuster to get the precise alignment. There's no misalignment when you do this - and as Wayne mentioned, it's just for releasing and doing coarse adjustments instead of turning the screw.Graham,
for me it is a problem that the lens moves further after I have adjusted my composition (and be it just half a millimeter). Why on earth should the lens move and why on earth do I have to guess whether it will move up or down when locking it.
so simply skip my image #3 ... as the weight lays always on the clip.The "clip" you refer to is NOT a lock. It is a quick release that dis-engages from the threaded adjustment mechanism allowing you to make quick coarse adjustments very quickly. Once you re-engage the mechanism, nothing is "locked" ...
Thomas,so simply skip my image #2 ... as the weight lays always on the clip.
Hi PaulHi Jurgen,
Here is a bit of an explanation of the HPF ring in more detail. The information has been edited by me to take some of the Swiss out of the English for readability but I think the original content has been maintained.
:ROTFL:
I hope this explains the idea a little bit more.
“The DoF with a rather too aggressive CoC of 0.0010 mm ( 2 x 5 micron , which is even smaller than the around 5.2 micron of the new Leaf 12) *the calculated DoF is roughly 4 cm wider than the accuracy of our degree table. In fact the DoF of this very, very restrictive calculation would allow one to be off by one to two degrees! If you take the official CoC normally used the for those devices the DoF increases of course....”
Best Regards,
Paul
I think you should see the real focus rings first. With short markers it gets completely confusing as it's much harder to check to which number the respective marker refers to. I am sure Alpa's current design will work very fine - if you look at the scale from above you can easily adjust the lens for the short markers.for the ease of use , I still wish the distance scale to have the short markers on both sides of the scale . From the shortest distance to infinity
Thomas, I'm not sure what you are saying here - you own a Max that has this problem? Or have you just seen them and extrapolated this problem? I've had one for more than 2 years, always use with the stitching adapter and never seen any lens movement as you describe. I've not heard any reports of anyone else having this problem either. As Wayne Fox states that is not a lock - if you've been using it as one I can see how you'd get lens movement, but that's now a problem with the camera.so simply skip my image #3 ... as the weight lays always on the clip.