Stan Lawrence
New member
Picking up the Mamiya tomorrow morning for a tryout..... I'll try and post some images when I get it working....
Great to see you here. Join our insightful photographic forum today and start tapping into a huge wealth of photographic knowledge. Completing our simple registration process will allow you to gain access to exclusive content, add your own topics and posts, share your work and connect with other members through your own private inbox! And don’t forget to say hi!
Stan you are better off keeping it a low-ish iso and increasing the exposure time, if possible...Finally took the camera to work.... I make my living on the beach right before sunset.... pretty much 400 iso country. The mamiya looks great when there's a lot of light, iso 100. At 400, at sunset, I'm seeing noise.... tried processing in capture one, noise lives on.... am I doing something wrong here or is it an iso 100 camera?
Thanks for the info, is that the case with all the backs available on that camera?Stan you are better off keeping it a low-ish iso and increasing the exposure time, if possible...
The chip's native speed is 50 iso so pushing it 3 stops will for sure produce some noise. You can use the noise reduction tools in Capture One or Leaf Capture which may help a bit
HTH
Yair
The DM40 and DM56 use newer generation sensors that perform a little better in high iso, also due to the fact the the files are bigger, resulting "finer grain" for the same given print sizeThanks for the info, is that the case with all the backs available on that camera?
The camera handles very well. My work is almost exclusively iso 400, at that speed there is way too much noise for me. If I were able to work at 50 or 100, it would be great.I'm very interested in this system, how are you finding it?
Using C1 for processing? I use it with my Samsung clone (of the Pentax K20D) and get decent results using noise reduction at 1600. *Surface* is particularly good for large areas of even tone.My work is almost exclusively iso 400, at that speed there is way too much noise for me. If I were able to work at 50 or 100, it would be great.
Yep, used C1, which I like a lot... most of my work ends up in either 30 or 40 in prints, I really need a file that can handle that....Using C1 for processing? I use it with my Samsung clone (of the Pentax K20D) and get decent results using noise reduction at 1600. *Surface* is particularly good for large areas of even tone.
Have you tried iso200 and giving it a nudge? Depends on how plentiful the shadows are, I suppose.Yep, used C1, which I like a lot... most of my work ends up in either 30 or 40 in prints, I really need a file that can handle that....
It's not accurate to say that C1 "puts" hot pixels into the image. Not that it matters (all that really matters is how the image looks). But it might be helpful for you to understand that the underlying issue is that the camera is recording hot pixels and, given your current settings, they are not being removed.Have you tried iso200 and giving it a nudge? Depends on how plentiful the shadows are, I suppose.
Off-topic, I'm finding C1 puts hot pixels into the image being processed, sometimes half a dozen or more. If I use Adobe RAW Importer in CS2, that doesn’t happen, but that workflow is so painfully slow! I won't buy LR ’cos I sprang for C1 during the discount offer.
Time to hit the Phase forums ...
Thanks for that, Doug—your eyes are everywhere! I hadn't realised that there was hot pixel auto-removal going on in Camera Raw; useful to know.It's not accurate to say that C1 "puts" hot pixels into the image. Not that it matters (all that really matters is how the image looks). But it might be helpful for you to understand that the underlying issue is that the camera is recording hot pixels and, given your current settings, they are not being removed.
Simply bump "long exposure noise reduction" up 20 or 30 points and they will all go away.
C1 gives you more control over the algorithm for hot/stuck pixel noise reduction which is really nice - in many cases ACR/LR/Aperture mis-identifies specular details or "glint" or other single pixel detail as stuck/hot pixels and removes them without hardly any user control over the process (other than the single generic noise reduction slider). Unfortunately that does mean that for some cameras (and specific ISOs for those cameras) you'll get stuck/hot pixels that aren't removed by default.
A style specific to your camera and ISO would save you a lot of time in that regard.
Yeah, took me a while to figure this one out a bit ago 8)Simply bump "long exposure noise reduction" up 20 or 30 points and they will all go away.