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Thread: Mamiya DM 33

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    Member Stan Lawrence's Avatar
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    Mamiya DM 33

    Picking up the Mamiya tomorrow morning for a tryout..... I'll try and post some images when I get it working....

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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Looking fwd

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    Member Stan Lawrence's Avatar
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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Still trying to find the focus points....

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    Member Stan Lawrence's Avatar
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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Finally took the camera to work.... I make my living on the beach right before sunset.... pretty much 400 iso country. The mamiya looks great when there's a lot of light, iso 100. At 400, at sunset, I'm seeing noise.... tried processing in capture one, noise lives on.... am I doing something wrong here or is it an iso 100 camera?

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    Senior Member yaya's Avatar
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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Lawrence View Post
    Finally took the camera to work.... I make my living on the beach right before sunset.... pretty much 400 iso country. The mamiya looks great when there's a lot of light, iso 100. At 400, at sunset, I'm seeing noise.... tried processing in capture one, noise lives on.... am I doing something wrong here or is it an iso 100 camera?
    Stan you are better off keeping it a low-ish iso and increasing the exposure time, if possible...

    The chip's native speed is 50 iso so pushing it 3 stops will for sure produce some noise. You can use the noise reduction tools in Capture One or Leaf Capture which may help a bit

    HTH

    Yair
    Yair Shahar | Product Manager | Phase One | Mamiya Leaf
    e: [email protected] | m: +44(0)77 8992 8199 | yaya's blog

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    Member Stan Lawrence's Avatar
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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Quote Originally Posted by yaya View Post
    Stan you are better off keeping it a low-ish iso and increasing the exposure time, if possible...

    The chip's native speed is 50 iso so pushing it 3 stops will for sure produce some noise. You can use the noise reduction tools in Capture One or Leaf Capture which may help a bit

    HTH

    Yair
    Thanks for the info, is that the case with all the backs available on that camera?

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    Senior Member yaya's Avatar
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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Lawrence View Post
    Thanks for the info, is that the case with all the backs available on that camera?
    The DM40 and DM56 use newer generation sensors that perform a little better in high iso, also due to the fact the the files are bigger, resulting "finer grain" for the same given print size

    Yair
    Yair Shahar | Product Manager | Phase One | Mamiya Leaf
    e: [email protected] | m: +44(0)77 8992 8199 | yaya's blog

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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    I'm very interested in this system, how are you finding it?
    Odille

    H2 | P20 | HC 50-110 | HC 150 f3.2 | HC 210 f4 ~ My Website

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    Member Stan Lawrence's Avatar
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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Quote Originally Posted by Analog6 View Post
    I'm very interested in this system, how are you finding it?
    The camera handles very well. My work is almost exclusively iso 400, at that speed there is way too much noise for me. If I were able to work at 50 or 100, it would be great.

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    Senior Member mediumcool's Avatar
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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Lawrence View Post
    My work is almost exclusively iso 400, at that speed there is way too much noise for me. If I were able to work at 50 or 100, it would be great.
    Using C1 for processing? I use it with my Samsung clone (of the Pentax K20D) and get decent results using noise reduction at 1600. *Surface* is particularly good for large areas of even tone.

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    Senior Member mediumcool's Avatar
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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Money where my mouth is: available light shot with a f4 max-aperture zoom. Not as sharp as I could hand-hold thirty years ago but reasonably smooth by using Surface in NOISE REDUCTION ADVANCED.



    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
    [screenshot from Capture One OSX]

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    Member Stan Lawrence's Avatar
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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Quote Originally Posted by mediumcool View Post
    Using C1 for processing? I use it with my Samsung clone (of the Pentax K20D) and get decent results using noise reduction at 1600. *Surface* is particularly good for large areas of even tone.
    Yep, used C1, which I like a lot... most of my work ends up in either 30 or 40 in prints, I really need a file that can handle that....

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    Senior Member mediumcool's Avatar
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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Lawrence View Post
    Yep, used C1, which I like a lot... most of my work ends up in either 30 or 40 in prints, I really need a file that can handle that....
    Have you tried iso200 and giving it a nudge? Depends on how plentiful the shadows are, I suppose.

    Off-topic, I'm finding C1 puts hot pixels into the image being processed, sometimes half a dozen or more. If I use Adobe RAW Importer in CS2, that doesn’t happen, but that workflow is so painfully slow! I won't buy LR ’cos I sprang for C1 during the discount offer.

    Time to hit the Phase forums ...

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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Quote Originally Posted by mediumcool View Post
    Have you tried iso200 and giving it a nudge? Depends on how plentiful the shadows are, I suppose.

    Off-topic, I'm finding C1 puts hot pixels into the image being processed, sometimes half a dozen or more. If I use Adobe RAW Importer in CS2, that doesn’t happen, but that workflow is so painfully slow! I won't buy LR ’cos I sprang for C1 during the discount offer.

    Time to hit the Phase forums ...
    It's not accurate to say that C1 "puts" hot pixels into the image. Not that it matters (all that really matters is how the image looks). But it might be helpful for you to understand that the underlying issue is that the camera is recording hot pixels and, given your current settings, they are not being removed.

    Simply bump "long exposure noise reduction" up 20 or 30 points and they will all go away.

    C1 gives you more control over the algorithm for hot/stuck pixel noise reduction which is really nice - in many cases ACR/LR/Aperture mis-identifies specular details or "glint" or other single pixel detail as stuck/hot pixels and removes them without hardly any user control over the process (other than the single generic noise reduction slider). Unfortunately that does mean that for some cameras (and specific ISOs for those cameras) you'll get stuck/hot pixels that aren't removed by default.

    A style specific to your camera and ISO would save you a lot of time in that regard.

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  15. #15
    Senior Member mediumcool's Avatar
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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Quote Originally Posted by dougpetersonci View Post
    It's not accurate to say that C1 "puts" hot pixels into the image. Not that it matters (all that really matters is how the image looks). But it might be helpful for you to understand that the underlying issue is that the camera is recording hot pixels and, given your current settings, they are not being removed.

    Simply bump "long exposure noise reduction" up 20 or 30 points and they will all go away.

    C1 gives you more control over the algorithm for hot/stuck pixel noise reduction which is really nice - in many cases ACR/LR/Aperture mis-identifies specular details or "glint" or other single pixel detail as stuck/hot pixels and removes them without hardly any user control over the process (other than the single generic noise reduction slider). Unfortunately that does mean that for some cameras (and specific ISOs for those cameras) you'll get stuck/hot pixels that aren't removed by default.

    A style specific to your camera and ISO would save you a lot of time in that regard.
    Thanks for that, Doug—your eyes are everywhere! I hadn't realised that there was hot pixel auto-removal going on in Camera Raw; useful to know.

    I bought C1 primarily for use with the Mamiya kit that I am slowly assembling (still need an affordable back ), but thought why the hell not try it with the Samsung (and soon the new Pentax K5). I also use PS2 for finishing.

    Am generally very happy with the speed and smoothness of the C1 workflow on my 3Ghz iMac but find the documentation a bit underwhelming.

    One question: I have been trying to activate lens sharpness falloff to use with my terrific 12–24 Pentax (nee Tokina) zoom, one of the best zoom lenses I have ever used. But at wide apertures on wide zoom there is some corner softness—I’ve tried A, B and C to activate the LSF checkbox (and the fringing too); suppose I need some sort of profile, but can’t figure out how to generate one.

    All suggestions welcome!

    BTW, your suggestion worked on a number of hot pixels, and also cleaned up a lot of white speckle, leaving only one hottie—a pretty good result.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by mediumcool; 21st November 2010 at 15:50. Reason: added two words!

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    Re: Mamiya DM 33

    Quote Originally Posted by dougpetersonci View Post
    Simply bump "long exposure noise reduction" up 20 or 30 points and they will all go away.
    Yeah, took me a while to figure this one out a bit ago 8)

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