Hasselblad back on Horseman SW-DII

[JimCollum]

Woody sorry I am bit late in responding to this. We offer a small plexi plate that we use for the PhaseOne systems, that I am sure should work for the Hassy system. Here is what it looks like. I am going to send one out to you today.
BTW looks like you are getting the hang of the system. Enjoy.

is that similar to an Expo disc.. that's what i've used successfully to get calibration files for the Aptus.

 

[Bob]

It seems to be without the fluorescent ceiling light diffuser.
I think the intent or rationale is to make it more uniform.
-bob

 

[Guy Mancuso]

Don't need the center filter Bob just use this and in C1 calibrate to it than save that for your files. At least that is how i see it. It is actually like a piece of milk plexiglass and just hold in front of lens take a shot than use that lens and lighting for your calibration than use that profile made in C1

 

[lance_schad]

Woody I have a special calibration target that Phase included in my package . So all I would do is take the reference shot with the target over the lens than C1 will create a calibration for the lans and make the corrections as you did in Flexcolor . I agree Phocus should also have this feature.

Maybe Jim can chime in and tell us what he uses for his Aptus 75. I am new to the Horseman so may take me a little bit to get going

is that similar to an Expo disc.. that's what i've used successfully to get calibration files for the Aptus.

The expo disc vignettes at the edges we have found, because the prism type lenses at the edges only direct one source of light because the other side is blocked. This plate is placed firmly on the lens barrel and provides an even amount of light even at the edges.
Plus our tool is under $20 vs about $100 for expo disc.

Lance

 

[Guy Mancuso]

This is somewhat like what Sandy made with cornerfix for the M8. Same principle

 

[jlm]

you like the Helicon focus? it seems very useful

 

[Woody Campbell]

Woody sorry I am bit late in responding to this. We offer a small plexi plate that we use for the PhaseOne systems, that I am sure should work for the Hassy system. Here is what it looks like. I am going to send one out to you today.
BTW looks like you are getting the hang of the system. Enjoy.

Lance Schad
Capture Integration - Miami/Atlanta
305-394-3196 cell | 305-534-5702 office
Capture Integration
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[email protected]

Thanks

 

[Woody Campbell]

you like the Helicon focus? it seems very useful

I use it a lot. It seems to have been invented to solve the narrow focus problem with macro shots but I have no interest in using it that way. It very neatly solves the problem of lack of tilts in most digital systems - it actually works better.

I started a thread elsewhere to nag Hasselblad about adding focus bracketing as a firmware update.

A link to another image: Big Tree Follow the link and scroll down.

Focus bracketing is quick and Helicon Focus is fast and very easy to use - I use the default settings. Images need to be quite closely aligned so it doesn't work hand held.

 

[fotografz]

After a number of false starts (instructions are scant on the subject of using Hasselblad backs on third party cameras) and trial and error I got the combination working reliably. The key issue in my mind was how do deal with the color casts across the frame that you expect when shooting non-retro focus wides digitally. This image illustrates the problem (f8 shifted 10 mm in the direction of the left side of the frame):

View attachment 5056

Nasty isn't it.

On another thread where I first raised this issue I learned that FlexColor includes the ability to shoot a white reference frame - FlexColor applies corrections to subsequent frames based on the reference frame. Phocus 1.0 does not include this feature - this is an absolute must for the next release. In FlexColor shooting tethered you shoot the reference frame (I use an Expodisk), identify it as a reference frame; FlexColor uploads it to the back and subsequent frames are properly corrected. This too took some trial and error - the reference frame seems to work best if exposed to the middle grays. The most common mistake I made was not turning this adjustment off when shooting a new reference frame - otherwise the adjustment is corrected with the last adjustment leading to very weird results. You can use this feature shooting untethered, making the corrections when you import the images to FlexColor, but you need to tether the camera to activate the feature (think of the camera as a gigantic dongle).

So here is the white reference frame for the above image:

View attachment 5057


And here's the image as corrected by FlexColor:

[View attachment 5058

Even on the web you see one of the advantages of the Hasselblad - absolutely lovely color straight out of the box.

Note to Hasselblad: Please, please include this feature in the next release of Phocus.

I think it's supposed to be Woody.

Personally, I like the Image bank ... 2000 shots partitioned against any potential corruption. And you can download a CF for dual security. I do all my "no second chance" stuff with the Image Bank. Since the battery is on the Image Bank, you can put it in your pocket and run the firewire down your sleeve for cold weather shooting ... which I've done.

 

[Woody Campbell]

Here's a sequel to my experience with my H3D 39 on a Horseman SWDII.

B&H finally delivered a Rodenstock 45mm Digitar last week. So I spent a few hours with it yesterday. I got the 45mm because it has a much larger image circle than the 35mm (see above), making shifts a practical reality. So here is a fairly demanding barn shot and two crops. The setup is the same as pictured above, but with the 45mm.

To capture the image I used 12 mm of shift to eliminate the foreground and capture the top of the barn. The camera was leveled - no Photoshop perspective adjustments were needed.

View attachment 6880

View attachment 6881

View attachment 6882

A couple of observations: This combination actually works. Edge to edge resolution is outstanding even shifted 12 mm.

But . . . framing with a viewfinder is hit-or-miss - it becomes a process of frame, shoot, review the lcd, shoot, review the lcd . . . With a bit of practice I may get good enough at it to make this a practical tool.

 

[Woody Campbell]

Personally, I like the Image bank ... 2000 shots partitioned against any potential corruption. And you can download a CF for dual security. I do all my "no second chance" stuff with the Image Bank. Since the battery is on the Image Bank, you can put it in your pocket and run the firewire down your sleeve for cold weather shooting ... which I've done.

I'm learning to love the Image Bank. I was having serious problems with it (locking up while being formated by the camera for example) - which was frustrating and inconsistent with everyone else's experience. Then I tried a different cable and it turns out that it's totally reliable.

 

[jlm]

woody: that lower corner res is amazing, but when you shift it in this image, isn't that corner of the image nearer the centerline of the image circle?

i hear you about viewing...i posted a 3x3 nine frame stitch in the panorama thread, using the ground glass adapter to get started, but it is a crap shot for accurate framing.

and by the way, i have been loving that Helicon

 

[Woody Campbell]

woody: that lower corner res is amazing, but when you shift it in this image, isn't that corner of the image nearer the centerline of the image circle?

i hear you about viewing...i posted a 3x3 nine frame stitch in the panorama thread, using the ground glass adapter to get started, but it is a crap shot for accurate framing.

and by the way, i have been loving that Helicon

It is, but the top of the cupola is further from the image center. With the 35mm and 12mm of shift that part of the images has started to turn into oatmeal.

 

[shakeshuck]

The expo disc vignettes at the edges we have found, because the prism type lenses at the edges only direct one source of light because the other side is blocked. This plate is placed firmly on the lens barrel and provides an even amount of light even at the edges.
Plus our tool is under $20 vs about $100 for expo disc.

Lance

Hi Lance,

I'm a little late in catching up on some of these threads :sleep006:

Is this tool large enough to fit in a Lee holder, or is it just intended to be held against the lens?

Graham.

 

[fotografz]

Woody, have you used the Live View coupled with Audio Feed back for focus?

Pretty cool.

Use the magnifying tool after you get your full image composition in Live View ... a new window will open ... place the green circle over the critical area of focus .. then go to to the menu again and the Audio Feedback feature just below Live View will now be clickable. As you focus the tone gets higher as you achieve critical focus ... if you go past critical focus, the tone will began going deeper again. With this feature I can focus without looking through the ground glass.

This is what the magnification window looks like ... (a close-up product shot of a 28mm View Camera lens.) The green focus graph is there with or with out the Audio Feed-back, but does correspond to the Audio Feed-Back when it's activated.

 

[Woody Campbell]

Woody, have you used the Live View coupled with Audio Feed back for focus?

Pretty cool.

Use the magnifying tool after you get your full image composition in Live View ... a new window will open ... place the green circle over the critical area of focus .. then go to to the menu again and the Audio Feedback feature just below Live View will now be clickable. As you focus the tone gets higher as you achieve critical focus ... if you go past critical focus, the tone will began going deeper again. With this feature I can focus without looking through the ground glass.

This is what the magnification window looks like ... (a close-up product shot of a 28mm View Camera lens.) The green focus graph is there with or with out the Audio Feed-back, but does correspond to the Audio Feed-Back when it's activated.

I have used it - the focus aid is accurate and easy to use. Very cool.

The downside is that tethered shooting is inconvenient for landscape work. Also if you point the camera out the window in daylight you will see that liveview is overexposed, even stopped down all of the way - 4 stops or so of ND filter would probably cure but that's an additional headache.

 

[Tom_W]

Woody...

I am new to this forum and heavly considering the Horseman SWD-2 with a 45mm for coastal/mountain landscape photography with a P45 back.

I currently use a SW-617 Pro.

What interests me about this camera is a) digital back compatiable ( and the joys that holds) b) its ability to stitch c) its simplicity d) it's light and reasonable compact.

Could you comment about the quality of the file corners on full (17mm) shift with the 45mm.

I also was considering the use of a CF, but am questioning that now.. how good is the correction mechanism for this camera in PS .. what does PS do to the pixels given that it (apparently) is a 2.5 stop difference.

Given the use I wish to put it too any other thoughts would be really appreciate before I shell out about $7000...

Is their a ground glass back for this camera, as it wiull not be used tethered half way up a hill, and I may need to use Grad Filters ( jury's out on this one )

Cheers

T (from the UK)

 

[jlm]

i've been using the horseman with the 35mm lens, and so does jim collum with great results. shift works fine, but switching the back to ground glass for each shift gets to be tiresome. what i now do is view through the ground glass for focus and composition, checking all the shifts i think i need, noting the amount of shift, then change to the DB and shoot and shift for all the positions.

 

[Tom_W]

Jlm,

Given the environment I intend taking the camera into (Mountains, Cold, in a backpack) can you comment upon how sturdy the camera is and can you are strip it down to remove any debris if it gets between the plates?

Also I assume the back can be mounted in both a horizontal and verticle manner?

Many thanks for the anticipated reply

T

 

[jlm]

i haven't torture tested it, but the horseman seems quite rugged. you do have to make sure the shift locks are tight or it can move when mounting the back. i use a sq format (CFV) so i have no need to rotate. i'll take a look tomorrow and comment on what you might have to do to clean it out, but it looks very simple. when the back is shifted to the extremes, the light sealing felt is slightly exposed; you wouldn't want that to get loaded with debris