Some advice please - Hasselblad Cameras

[fotografz]

Thanks for the pictures really impressed with the level of recovery in both files - thanks for the wedding pic gives a really good idea of what can be done handheld.

Marc - Are you saying with the mirror lock up its locked up the whole time or like on a slr where you lock it up and it releases when you take your finger off the button so you choose when to release it ?

Tim

Tim

Tim, the way I use it for weddings is to trip it up with the front grip Mirror Release button after focusing and composing ... most of the time I can then just watch the action at the altar and trip the shutter at peak times ... often using the electronic release cable to minimize any vibration for lower shutter speeds ... which I time to lulls in the action. They aren't playing soccer up there so it works pretty well. It stays up until I trip that grip button again ... which I can do when the time is right,
or I need to re-compose.

I've used this technique even hand held from time to time ... as long as I'm steady : -)

-Marc

 

[Simon Revill]

That's some recovery Tareq ! good job and very impressive

 

[Professional]

Thank you very much!

 

[rem]

Thanks Symbol an Marc! Yes of corse its the mirror! But I was thinking about ceremony shots... But for these I think will be the Nikon handier (or maybe a M10...;-). I do often freehand shots from not moving objects with long exposure where I focus, put the mirror up with the fingertip and press the shutter... very good!;-)

 

[johnnygoesdigital]

It should also be noted that with the mirror up on the H4D, you cannot use the viewfinder. As mentioned before, it's useful on a tripod, but not so much for composing without the viewfinder. There is virtually no vibration when using the mirror up function because of the shutter being mounted in the lens barrel, good flash speeds too. Although, for high speed action it's limited by the relatively slow speeds. My first H4D, had to be replaced because of the mirror; apparently, solder or something else caused the mechanism to jam. There is a great deal of movement in this camera when not using the MU function. I also think that the mechanics of the mirror generates a lot of air movement which contributes to a lot of dust on the sensor. Always turn power off, return the mirror to the down position and even ground yourself before changing lenses. As I mentioned in other posts, its easy to clean the sensor, but it has to be cleaned often. My experience using Hasselblad has been bittersweet.

 

[fotografz]

It should also be noted that with the mirror up on the H4D, you cannot use the viewfinder. As mentioned before, it's useful on a tripod, but not so much for composing without the viewfinder. There is virtually no vibration when using the mirror up function because of the shutter being mounted in the lens barrel, good flash speeds too. Although, for high speed action it's limited by the relatively slow speeds. My first H4D, had to be replaced because of the mirror; apparently, solder or something else caused the mechanism to jam. There is a great deal of movement in this camera when not using the MU function. I also think that the mechanics of the mirror generates a lot of air movement which contributes to a lot of dust on the sensor. Always turn power off, return the mirror to the down position and even ground yourself before changing lenses. As I mentioned in other posts, its easy to clean the sensor, but it has to be cleaned often. My experience using Hasselblad has been bittersweet.

In addtion to watching where I change lenses, I've taken to blowing off the internal mirror assembly AND the sensor with bulb type air (or dry canned air), using lintless Pec Pads if needed, and then swiping the underside of the focusing screen, mirror, and sensor with a soft sable anti-static brush that I used to use for film prep ... (or an Arctic Butter fly, which also produces an anti-static charge). Works pretty well.

-Marc

 

[tim driver]

well - Having read everyyhing there is available - looked at detail in pictures and picture sets I have come to the conclusion that the HD4-40 is the best camera for me for the following reasons .

True focus - this is probably the biggest enabler to allow me to shoot elements of the wedding day quickly (Will work with D3 when handling speed and high ISO dictate the need)

New sensor technology - hadnt realised how much better this back was at shooting up to 1600 until I saw the comparisons here http://www.sunshinecompany.co.za/index.php/blog/comments/high-iso-comparison-mf-vs-35mm/

40 m vs 30m image is not a big benefit for me but it will allow me to crop the images to a higher degree

The "crop sensor" is beneficial as it makes the relatively reasonably priced 50-150 a very good effective range for my needs and I can get a 35 or 28 if I need to go wider.

Having seen the quality of work being produced and the look of the pictures the quality that can be produced is far beyond what I expected when I asked the question a couple of weeks ago.

I guess I could also get most of what I need from a P40+ back from phase but I dont think I can get a camera that will also work in the same budget.


This however now leaves me with just one issue - Just how go I afford the extra £3.5 K ???

Thanks so much for all your help to date
Tim

 

[fotografz]

well - Having read everyyhing there is available - looked at detail in pictures and picture sets I have come to the conclusion that the HD4-40 is the best camera for me for the following reasons .

True focus - this is probably the biggest enabler to allow me to shoot elements of the wedding day quickly (Will work with D3 when handling speed and high ISO dictate the need)

New sensor technology - hadnt realised how much better this back was at shooting up to 1600 until I saw the comparisons here http://www.sunshinecompany.co.za/index.php/blog/comments/high-iso-comparison-mf-vs-35mm/

40 m vs 30m image is not a big benefit for me but it will allow me to crop the images to a higher degree

The "crop sensor" is beneficial as it makes the relatively reasonably priced 50-150 a very good effective range for my needs and I can get a 35 or 28 if I need to go wider.

Having seen the quality of work being produced and the look of the pictures the quality that can be produced is far beyond what I expected when I asked the question a couple of weeks ago.

I guess I could also get most of what I need from a P40+ back from phase but I dont think I can get a camera that will also work in the same budget.


This however now leaves me with just one issue - Just how go I afford the extra £3.5 K ???

Thanks so much for all your help to date
Tim

Do what everyone else has done when faced with making the stretch to MFD $$$$$ ... sell something else. It is amazing all the stuff you eventually collect, and feel is essential, that actually isn't. It all adds up when you start selling it off.

MFD may also spur getting other types of paying work ... I do some simple parts and fabric photography that HAS to be shot with MFD which helps during down wedding months. A little here, a little there, also adds up. I have one of those to do today.

Plus, what you are buying will most certainly devaluate, but it isn't suddenly worthless if you get into a real financial jam ... :ROTFL: I just came up with that one for myself so I can move forward with my H4D/60 or H4D/50 MS trade-in deal :ROTFL:

BTW, get the 28. IMO, it's better than the 35 and makes fab interior church shots that'll flip you out when you see it.

-Marc

 

[symbolphoto]

Tim, i'm glad you finally came to a decision. Not just for weddings, but even portraits or bridals. Wait until you see the quality. You are going to be amazed!

I can't put into words how fun it is to shoot with this system.

btw - i just put a few more photos up taken with it: http://www.flickr.com/photos/symbolphotography/

Enjoy and report back!

 

[tim driver]

Lovely range in those pictures Brendan - I'm in discussions with Hasselblad uk about purchasing one of their EX demo HD4-40's - I would save close to $3000 on the best price I can buy for new

Tim

 

[Jay Emm]

@ everyone - a really useful thread (going through parallel process to Tim, namely a D3s user looking to MF, so this series of posts has been really educational for me - thanks you!

 

[tim driver]

Glad it helped - for me the level of information shared has been fantastic, thanks to you all

 

[johnnygoesdigital]

The H4D will probably be okay, but bring a backup camera and extra batteries.

Not recommended for the landscape/adventure photographer!

 

[tim driver]

Well the HD4 was delivered today -Going to take it along to a couple of weddings this weekend as a second camera to see what I can get in the quiet times.

Marc / Brendan, no doubt I'll have some specefic questions

Tim

 

[fotografz]

Well the HD4 was delivered today -Going to take it along to a couple of weddings this weekend as a second camera to see what I can get in the quiet times.

Marc / Brendan, no doubt I'll have some specefic questions

Tim

Ask away!

Take your time, pay more attention to the grip histogram than the LCD regarding exposure ... don't let the LCD image throw you ...what you see there and what you will see in Phocus or Light-Room is like night and day. It'll actually shock you.

It will take time to get familiar enough with the rig to feel comfortable shooting at a wedding ... trust me on this, so don't get frustrated. Keep at it.

Best of luck!

-Marc

 

[tim driver]

Thanks Marc - how do you ratre the histogram on the rear display for accuracy ?

Tim

 

[Dustbak]

If you have ever used a Leaf back you will take the histogram on the Hasselblad back for what it is. I find it of limited use. An indication and a really limited histogram compared to the Leaf. The Leaf histogram is pure histogram porn.

I would normally turn on the overexposure warning and expose until that just clips a little bit.

I find that a much faster way to work and pretty much a guarantee you are working ETTR.

BTW, I am pretty sure the histogram is accurate. I find it simply too small and crude.

 

[David Schneider]

I guess in the studio I don't use histogram. Sometimes there's a high key background, some times mid key, sometimes low key, sometimes outside, etc. However, when I go by the lcd instead of what my flash meter tells me, that's when I find I'm off. I believe more in my meter than camera. LCD just tells me is something is violently off, as I forgot to re-set iso or something.