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Jack,where it ultimately boils down to an aesthetic/artistic choice
Cheers,
Or disproves it, if the GND was lined up with the left side of the hill.Proves my point.
The reflection in the water is too bright given the sky it reflects. You need to include the reflection in your mask. Also, the ground is too bright to have been illuminated by that sky - and it was, because if the light came from behind you you the shadows wouldn't be as deep.Yup, what Jack said.
Personally, I prefer something like this technique.
The sky exposure is about three stops under the valley.
Not taking sides in this conversation, as there is no perfect solution to the problem being discussed ... only good/better/best "artists" in using the medium.Yup, what Jack said.
Personally, I prefer something like this technique.
The sky exposure is about three stops under the valley.
-bob
I agree that the reflections could be brought down a bit, but I want them bright.The reflection in the water is too bright given the sky it reflects. You need to include the reflection in your mask. Also, the ground is too bright to have been illuminated by that sky - and it was, because if the light came from behind you you the shadows wouldn't be as deep.
This would lend itself nicely to a whole other thread. Personally, I don't really have an interest in showing exactly what the camera captured. I'm more interested in an image that results in an emotional reaction from the viewer.So, the question is ... do we want it to be technically correct, or do we want the viewer to feel the power and majesty of nature? This would suggest a different path to applied techniques available to us, with a reordering of priorities when it comes to observing and capturing light.
-Marc
Where are you located?Bob and Jack - please can you point me to a tutorial explaining blending? I've been shooting RAW files ready for using this technique for a while, especially with the 28mm Phase lens, but not stepped up to the plate and actually tried to perform the blend. So there are a number of potentially strong images residing on my hard drive in kit form....
I do carry and use Lee ND grads (hard and soft) as most of my images are Coastal. Whilst I've achieved a hardware solution to use larger ND grads with the 28mm it has issues over and above the limitations outlined in this thread!
Where things are fast moving such as waves, ND grads are v helpful. Wish I could find an equivalent when I want to focus stitch/blend! I'm having issues with halos using Helicon Pro... nearish rock against distant water and sky. Ideally sometimes its a focus AND exposure blend that is needed. Hence my request for a tutorial!