Terry
New member
The 35 was my first lens and I LOVE :clap: it....the 24 would be for landscapes.
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Ultra wide suggestions - Tech camera
- Thread starter Terry
- Start date
Slightly off topic - has anyone seen the new Rodenstock HR 32W lens?I have one on order - the specs look very impressive with a 90mm image circle.I have a HR28 and it is stellar quality - with respect far better than Mamiya - it has a 70mm circ. so some shift is possible with "smaller" sensors.
The suggestion to move to a larger sensor is not so crazy
its just a matter of time Terry! so with that in mind I would be planning lens purchases to suit.
JOHN
The suggestion to move to a larger sensor is not so crazy
its just a matter of time Terry! so with that in mind I would be planning lens purchases to suit.JOHN
Christopher
Active member
Well I have the 32mm, great lens, but I won't say more before i actually had time to shoot more. (First impressions can sometimes be wrong)
steflaurent974
Active member
Here are two variants from the same shot. (for an interior panorama) with natural light.
Taken on tripod, ALPA12swa, schneider apodigtar 24mm at F11.
Processed in C1 v6 : no clarity and Presharpening prest.
First one without LCC correction : you can see a green color cast on the bottom of this old POrsche roadster and light fall-off in the corner.
And the same with LCC applied :
As you can see no issue with the little IC on the P25+, and a very goo result.
Taken on tripod, ALPA12swa, schneider apodigtar 24mm at F11.
Processed in C1 v6 : no clarity and Presharpening prest.
First one without LCC correction : you can see a green color cast on the bottom of this old POrsche roadster and light fall-off in the corner.
And the same with LCC applied :
As you can see no issue with the little IC on the P25+, and a very goo result.
David Klepacki
New member
For landscape, maybe you should try stitching before buying a wider lens. Here is an example of stitching using a RM3D and 35mm lens. The angle of view is roughly equivalent to a 24mm lens.
Last edited:
Hi,
What other lenses do you have?
How much rise/fall has your camera?
I have the Schneider Apo-Digitar 47XL (I have not mounted it yet).
The 47XL has exactly the same angle of view (100 degrees) as the 24, so, if you can shift and stitch, you get two lenses in one.
You have enough shift to enable you to get tall buildings in without using a tall tripod or cropping the foreground.
What other lenses do you have?
How much rise/fall has your camera?
I have the Schneider Apo-Digitar 47XL (I have not mounted it yet).
The 47XL has exactly the same angle of view (100 degrees) as the 24, so, if you can shift and stitch, you get two lenses in one.
You have enough shift to enable you to get tall buildings in without using a tall tripod or cropping the foreground.
PeterA
Well-known member
Probably not the type of image most use a Schneider 24 for..a simple hand held snap on Alpa - shot from about a foot and half away ...never had a problem with flare or hyperfocal focussing ( sweet spot is F11 on this lens ) - coincides with everything from close up to way out in focus - I used puny Schneider scale on lens to focus along sleeping beauty ..recommend you purchase center filter for the lens though..
Terry
New member
Thanks everyone.....
I do have the Schneider 35mm Apo Digitar and can stitch but I also enjoy just doing one wide shot unstitched. So, I wouldn't be looking to use this lens with shifts.
The 24mm is a nice lens to have but I'm not sure I would consider it in my "must have" category. While I was just joking about just changing backs and getting wider lenses....it is always in the back of my mind as to putting together a kit that isn't too wonky if indeed I do end up with a different sized back.
In addition to the 35 I also have the Schneider 90mm lens. So, something in the 55mm range is also on my short list.
I do have the Schneider 35mm Apo Digitar and can stitch but I also enjoy just doing one wide shot unstitched. So, I wouldn't be looking to use this lens with shifts.
The 24mm is a nice lens to have but I'm not sure I would consider it in my "must have" category. While I was just joking about just changing backs and getting wider lenses....it is always in the back of my mind as to putting together a kit that isn't too wonky if indeed I do end up with a different sized back.
In addition to the 35 I also have the Schneider 90mm lens. So, something in the 55mm range is also on my short list.
Christopher
Active member
Rodenstock hrw 70 or or the New Schneider 60
Terry
New member
Christopher - been trying to see if anyone has used the new 60 yet. Have you tried a copy?
What is the image circle of the new Schneider 60?
The old one sucks @ 60mm! (like the 24)
David Klepacki
New member
If your enjoyment of doing one wide shot unstitched outweighs the gain in resolution from stitching, then of course you should get a wider lens. Stitching with a longer focal length is desirable when you prefer to see more fine details in your landscape images.
120mm
Christopher
Active member
Nope, i Fear it is coming as late as the new 28.
Terry
New member
David, I have the 35 and will most likely have the 60 for stitching and yes you are spot on about resolution etc working that way. But sometimes if I want to stick with the 4:3 aspect ratio and the light is changing I don't want to end up taking up to 9 shots and all the related LCC's. In addition, I live by the ocean which gets difficult and sometimes just being able to go wide and not think about stitching is preferable.
Terry
New member
Well I think I'm going to end up being the guinea pig and ordering it blind...somebody has got to go first.
Don Libby
Well-known member
Hi Terry, I noticed your query earlier this morning as we were about to head out the door to shoot Shiprock and had to wait till we returned this afternoon before I could respond.
One of the greatest (in my opinion) aspects to using a technical camera is the ability to shoot flat stitches. Flat stitching will in some cases make just about any focal length into a wide angle lens. While I use a Cambo WRS and not an Arca the concept should be the same; meaning flat movements of the back around the lens circle. In my case I can move my back depending on my lens up to 15mm left and right as well as 10mm up and down.
I used a Mamiya 28mm lens while I shot with the AFD and like the overall effectiveness of the lens. As I made my move over to the Cambo I wanted to recreate what I was getting plus adding the ability to do the flat stitching the WRS was capable of.
I made the mistake of buying a Schneider 24mm lens thinking that if a 28 was good a 24mm would be that much better. It wasn't as it turned out. The image circle of the 24mm turned out to be so small as to only allow for a very small amount of movements before the dreaded vignette occurred. I was stuck with a lens that was sharp and produced lovely images and at the same time I was stuck with a lens that I was incapable of using for movements. I remember doing some very loose testing and quickly found that by using my Schneider 35mm I was capable of achieving the same finished image (if not slightly larger) just by using flat stitching.
My recommendation would be staying with your 35mm as it will allow for movements and get you close to if not slightly beyond what a 24 will offer without the ability of including movements.
Save you move for other goodies!
Don
One of the greatest (in my opinion) aspects to using a technical camera is the ability to shoot flat stitches. Flat stitching will in some cases make just about any focal length into a wide angle lens. While I use a Cambo WRS and not an Arca the concept should be the same; meaning flat movements of the back around the lens circle. In my case I can move my back depending on my lens up to 15mm left and right as well as 10mm up and down.
I used a Mamiya 28mm lens while I shot with the AFD and like the overall effectiveness of the lens. As I made my move over to the Cambo I wanted to recreate what I was getting plus adding the ability to do the flat stitching the WRS was capable of.
I made the mistake of buying a Schneider 24mm lens thinking that if a 28 was good a 24mm would be that much better. It wasn't as it turned out. The image circle of the 24mm turned out to be so small as to only allow for a very small amount of movements before the dreaded vignette occurred. I was stuck with a lens that was sharp and produced lovely images and at the same time I was stuck with a lens that I was incapable of using for movements. I remember doing some very loose testing and quickly found that by using my Schneider 35mm I was capable of achieving the same finished image (if not slightly larger) just by using flat stitching.
My recommendation would be staying with your 35mm as it will allow for movements and get you close to if not slightly beyond what a 24 will offer without the ability of including movements.
Save you move for other goodies!
Don
My Sinar P3 converted from a P2 is a big ugly beast, but it gives, from memory, a total of 8cm rise/fall and 8cm left/right... so, you can use an image circle of 120mm with a 36 * 48 mm sensor (this needs +/- 37mm and 32mm, according to the Schneider brochure.
GrahamWelland
Subscriber & Workshop Member
Btw, Alpa have a really nice comprehensive tool that is equally applicable to Arca/Cambo or any other technical camera with movements. Just plug in your sensor size, the available shift/rise/fall & lens focal length/image circle and it'll calculate the equivalent image focal length for you if you stitch images together. It also handles the landscape/portrait orientation calculations and also you can easily specify just rise/fall or shift by setting the other dimensions to zero etc.
http://www.alpa.ch/en/products/tools/alpa-tools/alpa-comparable-focal-length-calculator.html