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Heat

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Well just thinking about this and I know each MF back company works at different ways to keep the sensor cool when operating. Let's leave it at that , they work as intended but my real question is this I live in a very hot climate actually 105 today tomorrow a 110 and yes folks it does get to a 120 degrees and folks will say it is a dry heat though. Total BS it is freaking hot, shade or not . But i do have a concern and that is my car which when left in the sun can get to about 160 degrees inside. Yes this is branding iron hot. How do these backs and sensors handle storage heat . What is the bake point at which they can get damaged and the second question is how to guard against it . I know we could use coolers and such but any other good idea's or not worry about this. Now i have been here 30 years and never a issue with any digital cam but I also been careful too.
 

robmac

Well-known member
A big concern in addition to the heat would be exiting the hot car into an AC'd environment. You then have the reverse case of climbing out of an AC'd car into the 120 heat.

While the backs should take the heat (so to speak) I would think protecting the gear from any excess swings in temperature would only be prudent given the level of coin involved.

The shake and bake testing for electronics works on the case of 'the average' unit - there will always be units at either end of the bell curve that will, for whatever reason, tolerate more or less abuse. No harm in palying it safe without going paranoid.

A cheap ratty cooler filled with Pick & Pluck foam would do the job nicely, attract no attention on the floor of the car or in a popped trunk and offer some impact protection - in effect a Trailer Park (thermally protected) Pelican case. Might look a bit weird going into the shoot, but it would be a conversation starter.
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
:)Guy, you can get a big piece of dry ice for the P25+

Just kidding, but they do have a nice video where the put the P30+ on a block of dry ice, then turn it back on! Worked fine.

Actually your point is very good one, and one where there is little or no info. I was worried about this years ago, when I would take two 1ds cameras and leave one in the car, like in AR the heat can get to 160 easily. I was worried about warpage on the chip, as it's only silcon and can warp. Selling PC's for years, you can easily have a system board warp if left in extreme heat for a period of time.

It would be interesting to find out what the tolerances are, as the size of MD format chips could lend themselves to warpage if the heat got extreme. I have a person who works at Sony and will run this question by him.

Paul Caldwell
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Thanks Paul be interesting to hear his thoughts. I know been doing this with digital in this climate for awhile but like Rob said today i have a little PR shoot and i will be shooting the MF and leave the D300 in the car just in case. This just might be my mode of operation now but even so be nice to know what the MF backs can handle . I loose a D300 to heat not the biggest loss but a 20 k back than I would panic. LOL
 

BJNY

Member
I always use empty ice chests/coolers to house equipment
when working on the beach or hot temps.

I'd be concerned about heat compromising whatever seals there are.
Once, a colleague had to send in his digital back
to get rid of the dust that accumulated on the inside of the protective glass.
 
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TRSmith

Subscriber Member
Holy cow. 120 degrees! I envy you during the winter, but not during the summer.

It would seem to me that the trick for any camera gear would be to try and maintain a relatively constant temp pretty much all the time, and especially when on a job. To that end, maybe something like one of those quilted bags the pizza delivery people use to keep stuff hot while on the road. They make them in lots of sizes, although they tend to be rectangular. Which would be great for something like a Pelican or hard case.

In my area, it's severe cold that's the problem. Often getting -20F in the deep winter. I have just come to the conclusion that it's never a good idea to leave electronics in the car. Laptop, camera, whatever.

Stay cool out there!
 

woodyspedden

New member
Thanks Paul be interesting to hear his thoughts. I know been doing this with digital in this climate for awhile but like Rob said today i have a little PR shoot and i will be shooting the MF and leave the D300 in the car just in case. This just might be my mode of operation now but even so be nice to know what the MF backs can handle . I loose a D300 to heat not the biggest loss but a 20 k back than I would panic. LOL
Guy

In addition to anything you do to protect the equipment (thermal cooler etc) I would strongly recommend you add a camera rider to your homeowners policy. There are just so many ways to lose, destroy etc your precious gear that an insurance policy is cheap "insurance" LOL.

JMHO

Woody
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Guy

In addition to anything you do to protect the equipment (thermal cooler etc) I would strongly recommend you add a camera rider to your homeowners policy. There are just so many ways to lose, destroy etc your precious gear that an insurance policy is cheap "insurance" LOL.

JMHO

Woody
I have a complete and separate policy for my business that covers all my computers, camera's , liabilty and everything else you can think of. It cost me about 1400 per year for it but all covered on completely and total loss and replacement. Woody check Hill and Usher they have packages for photographers
 

woodyspedden

New member
I have a complete and separate policy for my business that covers all my computers, camera's , liabilty and everything else you can think of. It cost me about 1400 per year for it but all covered on completely and total loss and replacement. Woody check Hill and Usher they have packages for photographers
Thanks Guy, will do

Woody
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Yes everyone get this stuff insured. You do NOT want a complete loss here, to much money on the line
 

David K

Workshop Member
Just for the heck of it I'd throw a thermometer inside the camera bag to see how hot it gets. My feeling is the camera bag will provide a large degree of insulation. The ice cooler idea can't hurt. Take a look at the marine units if you want the best insulation possible.
 

fotografz

Well-known member
Thanks Guy, will do

Woody
Homeowners coverage is limited even when it says it's total coverage. If you do anything to make money with the camera it won't be covered by a Homeowners rider. If you have a business policy, and lose a camera while on vacation, the insurance co. can deny the claim ... a Pro friend of mine had that happen.
 

Bob

Administrator
Staff member
Guy,
You might want to treat the cameras like we used to treat pro film.
Put them in zip lock bags, keep the bags in a cooler, add a frozen cooler chiller, and take what you want to use out about a half hour before you need it.
The specs for operational and storage temperature ought to be taken seriously.
The operating spec for the P25+ is 122 degrees F, the 645ADF is strangely not found in the manual (AFDII) downloaded from the Mamiya web site.
Actual electronics damage may not occur until quite a few degrees hotter during storage (over 300 degrees F or so), but remember that lens cement is less forgiving and may begin to soften before your electronics fry.
LCD displays are somewhat more limited with tn type lcds listing a max storage temp of about 175 degrees F for wide temp range models.
-bob
 
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