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Phase One Lens Guidance
- Thread starter vjbelle
- Start date
yaya
Active member
Hi Victor I have a similar type of image taken at f7 I'll upload it later tonight
Cheers Yair
Victor,
I find the 45D delivers a very nice and unique look if used at f4 or f5.6 --- the edges and corners are not crisp there, but the way the focus falls off and the oof renders, it is quite nice. At f8, it's pretty sharp across the frame, at f11 it is at peak and quite good corner to corner. If you want a lens that is crisp edge to edge at the focus plane and without curvature at f5.6, this isn't a lens for you -- but IMHO neither is the 55LS going to be...
Jack,
I appreciate the post. I realize that I won't get rid of curvature at f5.8 or even f8.... I can maybe crop some of that out with a loose image. Even my Schneider 35XL needs f11 to be super crisp edge to edge, corner to corner. I'll have an opportunity to shoot both of them at Capture Integration when the back arrives.
Victor
I appreciate the post. I realize that I won't get rid of curvature at f5.8 or even f8.... I can maybe crop some of that out with a loose image. Even my Schneider 35XL needs f11 to be super crisp edge to edge, corner to corner. I'll have an opportunity to shoot both of them at Capture Integration when the back arrives.
Victor
Victor,
Well.... I just met up with Guy and Bob for the workshop and Guy asked us to test his copy of the 55LS.. We did and his copy is a freaking laser, so they are out there. Both Bob and I are rethinking it. To clarify, his copy is sharp corner to corner at f5.6 on the P65+, a laser at f8 and 11, and honestly quite usable wide open at f2.8. Pretty much parallels the 80...
Well.... I just met up with Guy and Bob for the workshop and Guy asked us to test his copy of the 55LS.. We did and his copy is a freaking laser, so they are out there. Both Bob and I are rethinking it. To clarify, his copy is sharp corner to corner at f5.6 on the P65+, a laser at f8 and 11, and honestly quite usable wide open at f2.8. Pretty much parallels the 80...
Guy Mancuso
Administrator, Instructor
I rock the house.
And another testament to lens variability, I found that my Mamiya 35 out-performed two other samples recently tried. All were quire usable, but a pixel peeper like me likes to see sharp right to the corners on a P65+ without resorting to f/16. I am very satisfied with my 35. Good all the way from f/5.6 through f/16 with the best corner sharpness at f/8 and f/11.
Of course on this particular lens, on a 16 by 20 print, it would appear to be sharp even wide open. Sometimes we are a but tough in judging our gear.
-bob
Of course on this particular lens, on a 16 by 20 print, it would appear to be sharp even wide open. Sometimes we are a but tough in judging our gear.
-bob
Bill Caulfeild-Browne
Well-known member
Yay! Mine too! I used mine on a commercial job recently, photographing a church, and I'm VERY happy with it.
Bill
etrump
Well-known member
Guy, wouldn't you be concerned that the 47 and 35 might have the same banding issues as the P65+ when shifting?
I had one of those "I can't believe I got this" shot with the 24XL that had banding which I ended up cleaning manually. A royal pain in the backside for sure.
Ed
ondebanks
Member
All these reports of wide variability between samples back up what I was saying earlier in this thread: the 55AF and 55LS appear to be identical optical designs. Those who find the 55LS to be better, merely got the better samples.
There's no need to invoke Schneider magic when Occam's razor is employed.
There's no need to invoke Schneider magic when Occam's razor is employed.
I have the 55LS and mine is tack sharp edge to edge on both my P65+ and Leaf Apyus 12. Optimal apertures appear to be roughly f7 to f11. Smaller then f11 seems to show diffraction softness.
I have not seen a Mamiya 55non-LS that comes even close to this lens for sharpness and tonality. It's a beauty.
Ed, I use both 47 and 35mm's on my Alpa STC in my architectural photography practice. The banding you are talking about is a product of the angle at which light strikes the sensor when using symmetrical lenses.
I can't change the laws of optics and physics even when I use all my magical super-photographer powers, so I compromise - use some shift and (gasp!) tip my camera up or down a little, then use some correction in photoshop. With my P65+ and Aptus 12 there are so many pixels of data available that one does not see the artefacts of interpolation that one sees when using photoshop to correct convergence in DSLR files. This is one of the areas where having a good relationship with the Megapixel God is a huge blessing.
This is why the marriage of a huge sensor and a technical camera like the Alpa is the weapon of choice for pros.
Hope this helps...
Cheers,
yaya
Active member
And FWIW LCC tools in both Capture One and Leaf Capture clean any of these artefacts nicely
Yair
Paul Spinnler
Well-known member
I just got an Aptus 12 with a Phase DF and 80mm LS and 55 LS.
Today I did some tests against a heavily textured wall and was shocked to see how soft the 55 LS gets in the corners. It really is a shame for the money and get quite unuseable in the top left part. I'm not buying some cheap Canon glass but Schneider-Kreuznach and get this!
The 80mm is a laser on the other hand, useable even in the cornerns at 2.8 ...
I will return the 55 LS ...
So basically to summarize what has been said above, there's no wide-angle Phase One lens that's consistently sharp into the corners on a full-frame sensor? Everything downhill 80mm is bad or good luck? I.e. 55, 35, 28?
I'm a little disappointed for all the money ...
Today I did some tests against a heavily textured wall and was shocked to see how soft the 55 LS gets in the corners. It really is a shame for the money and get quite unuseable in the top left part. I'm not buying some cheap Canon glass but Schneider-Kreuznach and get this!
The 80mm is a laser on the other hand, useable even in the cornerns at 2.8 ...
I will return the 55 LS ...
So basically to summarize what has been said above, there's no wide-angle Phase One lens that's consistently sharp into the corners on a full-frame sensor? Everything downhill 80mm is bad or good luck? I.e. 55, 35, 28?
I'm a little disappointed for all the money ...
The issue I've had is that , for example, with the 35mm on the Alpa with the Aptus 12, when I get beyond 8mm shift, the lenscast is more severe than LCC can correct. It is in situations where I need more shift than this that I resort to tipping the camera and correcting perspective in post, whilst still using modest shift.
I am nor a purist who is going to whinge that I wish my lens/back could shift more. I'm only interested in the end result and this gets me the outcome required. Working this way gets me the perspective correction I need and the massive resolution available off the Aptus 12 on the Alpa is a big part of the equation.