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MF for landscape architecture

D

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
erick.boileau said:
the HTS is compatible from 28 to 100 mm I think
Click to expand...
To avoid any disappointment down the road the HTS is not compatible with the two zooms AFAIK (please someone jump in if I'm not correct).

It is compatible with the 28m, 35mm, 50mm, 80mm, & 100mm Lenses, multiplying the effective focal length of each lens by 1.5 and thereby allowing movement within the magnified image circle. It's really a very clever idea with it's own set of advantages/disadvantages - the limitation on wide-angles being the most prominent when asking about landscape/architecture.

If Grover sees this I'd be interested to know what happens if you put one of the zooms or longer lenses on the HTS - i.e. does it let you take a picture but warn you that automatic corrections are not possible or does it prevent the shutter from being released, and if so can you override that? (earnest question). I'm also curious how the system registers/displays the max aperture since adding an optical magnifying element changes it's effective aperture (same amount of light - spread over a larger area).

So many details to keep track of... I'm going to sleep! :loco:

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
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D

David Grover / Phase One

New member
dougpetersonci said:
To avoid any disappointment down the road the HTS is not compatible with the two zooms AFAIK (please someone jump in if I'm not correct).

It is compatible with the 28m, 35mm, 50mm, 80mm, & 100mm Lenses, multiplying the effective focal length of each lens by 1.5 and thereby allowing movement within the magnified image circle. It's really a very clever idea with it's own set of advantages/disadvantages - the limitation on wide-angles being the most prominent when asking about landscape/architecture.

If Grover sees this I'd be interested to know what happens if you put one of the zooms or longer lenses on the HTS - i.e. does it let you take a picture but warn you that automatic corrections are not possible or does it prevent the shutter from being released, and if so can you override that? (earnest question). I'm also curious how the system registers/displays the max aperture since adding an optical magnifying element changes it's effective aperture (same amount of light - spread over a larger area).

So many details to keep track of... I'm going to sleep! :loco:
Click to expand...
Well Peterson,

Yes, you can use the 28, 35, 50, 80, 100.

Eric - if you head over to hasselbladdigitalforum.com and join the conversation, there are a couple of landscape photographers using the HTS with great results. Indeed, not everyone wants a super wide angle for landscape, myself included.

This way you have a T/S solution on a MF body with the luxury of a viewfinder and 'normal' camera handling.

Other lenses will go on the HTS if physically possible (I don't know why you would want to put the zoom on it?).

Indeed, Derek Jecxz on this forum and the forum mentioned above, fitted his HTS a 1.7x and an HC300 lens.

The aperture indication is corrected based on the lens / HTS combo.

Also your current T/S Settings are always shown on the hand grip. The HTS is laser aligned in the factory, so setting to zero is far more accurate than a click stop.

We think of everything Doug. ;)

Grover
 
erick.boileau

erick.boileau

Member
thanks to all


David I am registered on hasselbladdigitalforum, I find that an upgrade of the H3D II 22mp is missing, something like a 30 MP FF or 1.1, for many user there is no needs for so many pixels
 
D

David Grover / Phase One

New member
Hi Erick,

For sure - you can do a lot with 30MP!

However, we feel that the 40MP offering from Kodak is superior for many reasons compared to some of the other options (33MP Dalsa) for example.

30MP full frame would actually be a very bad choice for a sensor. The pixel sites would have to be quite large leading to moire issues and a loss of fine detail - not much good for landscapes at all.

Try to get a demo of the H4D40 - I don't think you would be disappointed.

David
 
erick.boileau

erick.boileau

Member
David Grover / Hasselblad said:
Hi Erick,

For sure - you can do a lot with 30MP!

However, we feel that the 40MP offering from Kodak is superior for many reasons compared to some of the other options (33MP Dalsa) for example.

30MP full frame would actually be a very bad choice for a sensor. The pixel sites would have to be quite large leading to moire issues and a loss of fine detail - not much good for landscapes at all.

Try to get a demo of the H4D40 - I don't think you would be disappointed.

David
Click to expand...
David I know that the H4D 40 is a good camera but the sensor is 1.3, in that case I prefer a second hand H3D II 39 or 22 , I dont need true focus at all
 
J

Jeffg53

Member
erick.boileau said:
yes but for 40 MP the sensor = 1.3
a great choice for many of us will be to get 40 MP on FF (ISO 50 to 800 / 256 exposure time) , actually there is no MF with that possibility
Click to expand...
The H4D 40 works well for me, Erick. I have an H3D II 39 too. Apart from all the obvious advantages, I can now use my Lee Polariser without vignetting. I can also use the HCD 28 with a Lee universal hood and 2 grads. From my viewpoint, the 40 is a superb landscape machine, and more flexible than the larger sensor 39.

I wouldn't even think of comparing the 39 at ISO 50 to the 40 at 100. There are better ways to go blind.
 
erick.boileau

erick.boileau

Member
Jeff I know your landscapes from photo.net
If you say that it is a great camera for landscape then maybe I have to think about it :)

do you use the HTS ?

I have a Lee universal hood too + ND plates


thanks
 
J

Jeffg53

Member
Erick, I don't use an HTS, but for the same reason that I never went to a view camera. I want to make images, not fiddle with tilts and shifts. It just isn't my thing. I would look at the 40 very seriously. The smaller sensor is a great feature for me as I don't shoot wide very often and the other simplifying benefits with Lee gear are great.

I contemplated trading my H3D on a P45+ back recently but decided that the gain just wasn't worth the pain. The 256 seconds on the H4D is all that I really need for most things. Longer would be better but it is something that I can live with.

I'm glad to hear that you still remember me from PN.
 
erick.boileau

erick.boileau

Member
256 seconds is also enough for me
there is no AA filter on the H4D 40 ?

thanks a lot Jeff , I always appreciate your great landscapes
 
D

dick

New member
erick.boileau said:
an issue can be also the pixels, I don't see what I can do with 60 or 80 MP for A2 prints and the IQ140 is not FF ...

and what about Hasselblad H3D or H4D and HTS ?
Click to expand...
The HTS is limited, but worth the gadget bag space in some circumstances, I believe, if you have lenses with which it is compatible.

I am thinking about a Sinar 86H for tech... a top end top budget system capable of daylight live view and multi-shot, ideal for most landscape and architecture, especially with the new Sinar eShutters... and I hope it will look good up-rezd to 44 * 58 inches (at 180 pixels per print inch... but with no AA filter or Bayer interpolation!)

The Hasselblad H4D-60 is useful as an MFDSLR... and also useful for tech, (especially for landscapes including moving tree, waves etc.) especially as they will "soon" be selling a clip-on battery pack for it... and there are other Hasselblad backs for which you can get clip-on batteries.
 
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