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To avoid any disappointment down the road the HTS is not compatible with the two zooms AFAIK (please someone jump in if I'm not correct).the HTS is compatible from 28 to 100 mm I think
Well Peterson,To avoid any disappointment down the road the HTS is not compatible with the two zooms AFAIK (please someone jump in if I'm not correct).
It is compatible with the 28m, 35mm, 50mm, 80mm, & 100mm Lenses, multiplying the effective focal length of each lens by 1.5 and thereby allowing movement within the magnified image circle. It's really a very clever idea with it's own set of advantages/disadvantages - the limitation on wide-angles being the most prominent when asking about landscape/architecture.
If Grover sees this I'd be interested to know what happens if you put one of the zooms or longer lenses on the HTS - i.e. does it let you take a picture but warn you that automatic corrections are not possible or does it prevent the shutter from being released, and if so can you override that? (earnest question). I'm also curious how the system registers/displays the max aperture since adding an optical magnifying element changes it's effective aperture (same amount of light - spread over a larger area).
So many details to keep track of... I'm going to sleep! :loco:
David I know that the H4D 40 is a good camera but the sensor is 1.3, in that case I prefer a second hand H3D II 39 or 22 , I dont need true focus at allHi Erick,
For sure - you can do a lot with 30MP!
However, we feel that the 40MP offering from Kodak is superior for many reasons compared to some of the other options (33MP Dalsa) for example.
30MP full frame would actually be a very bad choice for a sensor. The pixel sites would have to be quite large leading to moire issues and a loss of fine detail - not much good for landscapes at all.
Try to get a demo of the H4D40 - I don't think you would be disappointed.
David
yes but for 40 MP the sensor = 1.3Not necessarily Erick.
Not everybody wants a million MPs and sales figures show that.
The H4D 40 works well for me, Erick. I have an H3D II 39 too. Apart from all the obvious advantages, I can now use my Lee Polariser without vignetting. I can also use the HCD 28 with a Lee universal hood and 2 grads. From my viewpoint, the 40 is a superb landscape machine, and more flexible than the larger sensor 39.yes but for 40 MP the sensor = 1.3
a great choice for many of us will be to get 40 MP on FF (ISO 50 to 800 / 256 exposure time) , actually there is no MF with that possibility
The HTS is limited, but worth the gadget bag space in some circumstances, I believe, if you have lenses with which it is compatible.an issue can be also the pixels, I don't see what I can do with 60 or 80 MP for A2 prints and the IQ140 is not FF ...
and what about Hasselblad H3D or H4D and HTS ?
If price is not an option, I would choose a Phase product. The open camera system platform has more options for landscape and interiorswhat are the best MF for landscape and architecture (with tilt/shift but also Autofocus when not using TS lenses ) ?
thank you
Also look into upgrade options and transferable warranties. These should also be considered. The crop factor of any sensor is important, but you say you don't like very wide lenses, that IMO, are a must for L/A.with the 28mm it is wide enough for me, I dont like very wide angles