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Thread: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

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    Subscriber Member kit laughlin's Avatar
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    I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Just supposing that you knew someone whose favourite WA range was 18-24mm (135 EFOV); that they needed a standard lens, and that they used a 85-90mm EFOV for portraits, AND you heard that they were thinking that it might be time to experiment with a MF back. As well, you know they owned C1Pro6; and they didn't need more than ~20–40MP (but wanted as physically large a sensor as possible, to keep the wides, well, 'wide',) what would you recommend to this hapless soul (who has abandoned hope!) as a starter kit?

    Seriously, I am considering going into this, now that the new IQ backs are out and so many second-hand backs are on offer. I would shoot this system tethered in the studio or on location for the architectural work; but I would still use the Sony for the John Deere location work and the faster stuff.

    I have been thinking about this as a result of shooting a bunch of instruments in the studio; getting perfect focus (and the difficulty of using the Focus Mask tool with a DSLR with an AA filter, plus the fact that focus can only be assessed after making an image with the Sony) is one of the reasons I am thinking about this.

    I don't mind if your impulse is to recommend against this course of action, either!

    What I would like from the members here is a kind of 'pros' and 'cons' list of the system that they recommend. Assume complete ignorance of the digital MF world (though had film MF cameras in the day)

    cheers all, Kit

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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Need to fire up Dantes inferno here. Be back with some thoughts
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

    www.guymancusophotography.com

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    Super Duper
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Oh boy! Can't wait to see how this turns out...

    Good luck Kit - As I shoot nothing but a tech camera now I'm going to stay out of the way.

    Don
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    Subscriber & Workshop Member GrahamWelland's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Hold on to your wallets ... this should be fun to watch. I predict everything from AFD II/P20 & 28-150mm glass through to 645DF/IQ180 & LS glass starter kit recommendations! (or Hassy equivalents)
    Remember: adventure before dementia!

    As Oscar Wilde said, "my tastes are simple, I only like the best"

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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    This is my preferred architecture kit: HcamB1 with my Hassieback, the fabulous 17mmT/S and 24mm T/S from Canon and the great 80mm Hartblei with Zeiss optics. I have had the Arca Rm3d, various Sinar and Cambo sets but nothing beats this set. And in studio all i have to do is use some great Hasselblad or Zeiss Jena glass, or canon, Nikon, Pentax, Mamiya, Minolta, Leica, Zeiss... lenses.
    Nothing can beat this camera configuration.

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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Kit is one of my favorites around here.

    Okay bud you just fell into the devils pit.

    First your a C1 guy so your choice here are Phase and Leaf and actually I am leaning towards Leaf Aptus 10. Reason being is its a wide sensor.

    Now let me go back my P40+ crop sensor with a 28mm in reality a 22mm 35mm Full Frame and i love this combo and have done some great interiors with it and they look awesome. But for this maybe a tech cam would be better and highly recommended BUT BUT BUT BUT BUT BUT. He is the big but I know for a fact that you will probably want to even use this for your John Deere stuff. Lets face it you are shooter a lot like me where diversity is king. I have the Sony too my friend but my Phase kicks its living butt and I know if you have a MF system you be trying to move it in this area as well and before anyone gets going on the tech cams, Interior kind of work I wanted to remind you of this right off the bat no matter if you have the Sony's and the MF system you will always be trying to puch the MF kit into The Sony area. I know i do this daily too. I want to use my Phase kit on everything and simply let the Sony's be backup or do stuff that is risky or not wanting to take my PHase kit. So that is my first warning is you will want to push this into everything. So you need to be careful on your decision here.

    You can certainly get a P45+, P40+, Aptus 10 and get a tech cam and simply knock them out of the park but it also puts some limits on as i just laid out above you may want this for everything. This is something you may have to decide going in as well. Now there are plenty of used backs out there and at some great prices as well. So lets explore which direction you want to take this first. But my warning of the day is this may turn to be PRIMARY system than secondary.
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Just want to show you a 28mm Phase lens . These are on a P25+ which you can get used hard to get but very cheap today. This is a 9 micron sensor which is good for interiors but a 6 micron would be better for more general purpose. AKA P40+ and Leaf Aptus. Help me here guys Leaf 6 micron sensors ?





    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Subscriber & Workshop Member GrahamWelland's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy Mancuso View Post
    Help me here guys Leaf 6 micron sensors ?
    Leaf: 6 micron for Aptus II 8 (same as P40+) and 7.2 micron for Aptus II 7 & 6 (Aptus 65/75 too).
    Remember: adventure before dementia!

    As Oscar Wilde said, "my tastes are simple, I only like the best"

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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Thanks Graham I knew you had the answer to this.

    Whats the Aptus 10 and i think this is wider 3:2 sensor which to me maybe a great interior sensor to have.
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

    www.guymancusophotography.com

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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    You're a goner. Dante's fires burn bright (but don't worry, MF gear can handle it with it's high dynamic range).

    Leaf tech data.

    Guy: the Aptus-II 10 is 6 microns, same as the P65+, but made in a 3:2 format so a hair less resolution (56mp rather than 60mp). Aspect ratio is completely a personal choice, some people are going to view the 3:2 of the Aptus-II as a big plus, others as a minus. It is the only (modern) game in town if you want 3:2 (native) in medium format.

    Illustration of the size (and aspect ratio) of some of the Leaf options (vs. FF dSLR format)


    Few bad options in MF - just a matter of finding the one that fits you best. I spent the weekend with my grandmother and uncle so I can't give you a long reply but thought I'd chime in with those links.

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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by H3dtogo View Post
    This is my preferred architecture kit: HcamB1 with my Hassieback, the fabulous 17mmT/S and 24mm T/S from Canon and the great 80mm Hartblei with Zeiss optics. I have had the Arca Rm3d, various Sinar and Cambo sets but nothing beats this set. And in studio all i have to do is use some great Hasselblad or Zeiss Jena glass, or canon, Nikon, Pentax, Mamiya, Minolta, Leica, Zeiss... lenses.
    Nothing can beat this camera configuration.
    Thank you VERY much for posting, H3dtogo.
    I've been curious about this camera since its announcement.

    Batteries and charger packed separately?
    The motorised slide works well?

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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by BJNY View Post
    Thank you VERY much for posting, H3dtogo.
    I've been curious about this camera since its announcement.

    Batteries and charger packed separately?
    The motorised slide works well?
    I know these look pretty neat too and been wondering about the kits and pricing.
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

    www.guymancusophotography.com

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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by dougpetersonci View Post
    You're a goner. Dante's fires burn bright (but don't worry, MF gear can handle it with it's high dynamic range).

    Leaf tech data.

    Guy: the Aptus-II 10 is 6 microns, same as the P65+, but made in a 3:2 format so a hair less resolution (56mp rather than 60mp). Aspect ratio is completely a personal choice, some people are going to view the 3:2 of the Aptus-II as a big plus, others as a minus. It is the only (modern) game in town if you want 3:2 (native) in medium format.

    Illustration of the size (and aspect ratio) of some of the Leaf options (vs. FF dSLR format)


    Few bad options in MF - just a matter of finding the one that fits you best. I spent the weekend with my grandmother and uncle so I can't give you a long reply but thought I'd chime in with those links.

    Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
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    National: 877.217.9870 *| *Cell: 740.707.2183
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    Thanks Doug those charts are really helpful for us. I agree some love 3:2 and some dislike it. Myself I like 4:3
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

    www.guymancusophotography.com

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    Sr. Administrator Jack's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    I'll toss in a wrench:

    P45+, DF body, 28, 80LS for flash synch when/if needed, and a 150/3.5 to save money. Of course the lens kit will bloat as soon as you convert your first set of raw files!
    Jack
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    Subscriber Member kit laughlin's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Oh dear.



    I knew it was going to be like this! I will have to ask for translations of some of the acronyms, and I am format-independent (I like 4:3 as well as 3:2). I can see there are some advantages to 3:2 in landscape orientation, but not enough to eliminate the 4:3 options. I am travelling over the next days, and will read all this today and check back.

    One of the reasons I started this thread is that there really isn't anywhere else an MF beginner can get the real skinny, from people who actually work with their tools.

    Guy, I can understand completely your suggestion re. moving as much of my work as possible over to MF—but this could be difficult for some of the JD stuff if I had to work tethered; imaging standing on a slippery, just-debarked huge log, up to your waist in forest debris, shooting handheld and keeping an eye out for the machinery doing the felling (you've seen some of the shots!). That seems to be DSLR domain, at least for a while. It's dangerous work and it requires nimble footwork, sometimes. Other JD work definitely can be done MF off a tripod.

    I'll stop here for now. Also, I did secure the U S O-1 work visa, and have workshops in my other day job planned for the second half of the year, and one is in Arizona... I am hoping that I might be able to meet some of you in person, which is something I have wanted to do for years. And I might just go home with a MF kit... Thanks to everyone who has replied so far, and I will work on understanding all the suggestions!!!!

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    Subscriber Member kit laughlin's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Jack: very interesting suggestion. I am guessing that my existing 35 and 55 Mamiya lenses will be usable on this body (excuse my complete ignorance here; I got these plus the Mirex T/S adapter for the Sony)? More tomorrow!
    Last edited by kit laughlin; 9th May 2011 at 23:34.

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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by Don Libby View Post
    Oh boy! Can't wait to see how this turns out...

    Good luck Kit - As I shoot nothing but a tech camera now I'm going to stay out of the way.

    Don
    A tech camera is a very sensible option, as you can use shift-and-stitch to use the full image circle of your lenses and make them wide when you need to.

    With a "proper" tech cam like a Sinar you can quad or hex stitch without spending thousands on a sliding back.

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    Subscriber Member kit laughlin's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Dick (and Don), I have decided exactly nothing yet, and I am guessing that any back that one chooses will be the biggest purchase part of the overall cost—and I assume the same back could be used on a conventional camera body as well as a tech camera, so please elaborate as time permits. Cheers, KL

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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Kit, my only piece of advice is to keep one hand on your wallet.

    Other than that, don't be afraid to try anything and everything before you buy. Everyone has different shooting styles and gear preferences. With such a range of MF backs and gear out there now (as opposed to 3-4 years ago) you can probably find something that produces images that will excite and challenge you.

    Good luck!

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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by kit laughlin View Post
    Dick (and Don), I have decided exactly nothing yet, and I am guessing that any back that one chooses will be the biggest purchase part of the overall cost—and I assume the same back could be used on a conventional camera body as well as a tech camera, so please elaborate as time permits. Cheers, KL
    You can buy a Sinar for £1,000, but that can be the thin edge of the wedge, as the whole cost of a Sinar camera (without the digital back or any lenses) can be £10,000.

    The Sinar P2 has plenty of movement for stitching, and a simple adapter can be relatively inexpensive, but you would normally need live view or a sliding back.

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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by kit laughlin View Post
    Also, I did secure the U S O-1 work visa, and have workshops in my other day job planned for the second half of the year, and one is in Arizona...
    Hey Kit... if you're going to Arizona better keep your visa with you (hope this translates for non-US citizens) Best of luck with your gear selection journey

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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    You come to AZ you best be calling me. LOL
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Sr. Administrator Jack's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by kit laughlin View Post
    Jack: very interesting suggestion. I am guessing that my existing 35 and 55 Mamiya lenses will be usable on this body
    Yes, assuming you have respectable copies of both, they will hold up to the P45+ sensor.
    Jack
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    Super Duper
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    I had a Mamiya 28 that I used first with a Mamiya then Phase body first with P30+ then my P45+ and was more than pleased with the results.

    You can also count me in as well expecting a phone call - Guy and I are only about 2 hours away from each other...
    Don Libby
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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    I would start with a good back . Couple suggestions for used and with tech cam in mind. P45+, P40+,P65+ and if you wanted to get into a older 9 micron the P25+. Than there is Leaf and some can suggest those units as well and this is keeping the C1 preference you hope to stay in. Pricing for used this is a good time for Phase and Leaf as the new backs start hitting the streets next week there will be a lot of upgrades going on so many dealers will have plenty to sell. Nice thing is with any of these backs you can go in two directions via the Body system and/or the Tech cam. So you have plenty of options here and plenty of tech cams to choose from. Biggest feature you will want is at least rise and fall than stitching of course. Each back will have it's pluses and minuses. First the P40+ and P65+ are identical sensors only the crop is the difference here . The P45+ is a older Kodak sensor with 1 hour exposure times capable but also limited to ISO which after ISO 200 i would not go there but the 40 and 65 can do a excellent ISO 400 and also ISO 800 with a little noise work in full resolution. We can certainly get into all those details and see what maybe YOUR best solution.
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Super Duper
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Interesting question and responses so far...

    Working from the back out I'd ask these questions.

    Do you regularly need to shoot long or semi-long exposures lasting longer than say 120 seconds? If so I recommend the P45+, if not either the IQ160 or IQ180. This has been my dilemma as I often find myself in dark/shady spots (old cliff dwellings, slot canyons etc) where I occasionally need a longer exposure. Right now I'm happy with the P45+ but have lust in my heart for either the IQ160 or 180. The rational side says the 160 will be more sufficient but the lust says go big or go home.

    Just noticed Guy jumped in with back suggestions so I'll move on...

    Most any of the backs would be very good for either a MFDSLR or tech cam. When speaking of tech cams I'd suggest the Cambo for a couple reasons - I use one and know it's capabilities and have full trust in it. The other aspect is the cost. While there are less expensive and much more expensive tech cams outs there I feel the Cambo sitting right in the middle gives you the most bang for the buck. Then there's the Mamiya/Phase glass for the Phase DF.

    Getting into either or both systems will give you the all around systems you'd need. The slow going use of a tech camera and the faster shooting of a DSLR with AF and speeds up to 1/4000.
    Don Libby
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    I was going to recommend the P45+ too, because of Kit's desire to "keep the wides wide" and stated MP desires. Kit also mentions architecture. Without knowing more about how important that is, I would certainly consider a technical camera and I think Don's Cambo analysis is a good one. You gotta try a technical camera first though. And different brands as well; even if it is only for an hour at a shop, or with someone else who owns one.

    Personally I think they are wonderful, but there are significant sacrifices and
    trade-offs.

    Dave

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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    I really don't think there's a "wrong" tech camera especially with all the recent technical advances by the various companies. You have such a range of sizes and cost however the technical advantages over one another are getting small with each version.

    The main consideration should be the digital back. While there's little to nothing out there that can beat a 60 minute exposure of a P45+ the image files of an IQ180 or IQ160 should knock yours socks off.

    Dave brings up a valid point on tech cameras in general; they are a different way of shooting. Nothing is quick with a tech camera and you need to be a lot more deliberate in your setup. The rewards of using a tech camera is astounding.

    Don
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by Don Libby View Post
    I really don't think there's a "wrong" tech camera...
    Don
    I am sure that there is not a right one - or not one that is ideal for every application and occasion.

  30. #30
    Subscriber Member kit laughlin's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    What a learning curve!

    To begin, I cannot afford one of the new IQ backs. Pity, but I need to be realistic here.

    So, we are talking one of the older backs, and if I am going to make the jump to MF, I want to be able to shoot tethered, and check focus etc. on a big screen. My new quad-core MacBook Pro will be perfect for this.

    This means one of the P+ series, right? I have read the Wikipedia entry on these backs, too.

    So far in all my work so far (and talking architecture here) I have not needed more than 10" exposure time—but that is Nikon/Sony sensors, and lenses that usually I do not stop down more than ƒ8-11. I know that I will need longer exposure times if I am using a MF back and MF lenses, but let's say no longer than 30".

    I am inclining to putting the major spending into the back itself. The way I am thinking now is that I can fit that back to the Phase DF body. Jack's lens suggestions make perfect sense.

    So, let me get this straight: the P40+ is a newer, 1.25 crop factor, up to ISO 800, and the P45+ is a older sensor with a 1.15 crop factor, and good long exposure times but limited to ISO 200. If I were to get the P40+, and fit it to a DF body with the 28 lens Jack mentioned, what are the stitching options when interior wide angles are necessary? If I have this right, that 28 will behave like a 35, and I definitely need wider than that, regularly? Or would I need a tech cam body for that work?

    And the old P25+ is a better crop factor than the P40+, if I have read the descriptions properly, and I assume people will be practically giving those away because they are only 25MP! Realistically, 25MP is sufficient for all of the paid work I do.

    And in my net travels, I came across a Leaf AFi7 review. Any perspectives here on that body? Or is the Phase DF body a big improvement on that one, handling-wise?

    Last points: I will definitely call you, Guy and Don, and we can arrange that later (mid-September is the first Arizona gig). I will read up on the Cambo bodies, too. I think getting the most flexible back first will be the best way to go. I will definitely need the option of ISO 800 for most of the work I do, so I think that means no to the P45+. And to Guy: I have been a monopod user forever (RRS clamp, L-bracket, and same setup on the heavy tripod). Thanks to all, and keep the suggestions coming! Cheers, KL

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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Kit p40 with a 28 mm is a effective 22mm lens in 35 land . Same lens on a p45 or p25 would like a 20mm. Personally I would go p40 you get a minute exposure but you get much better ISO up to a great 400 full res and I like the color better than the Kodak plus I would say a little more DR plus a 6 micron sensor and some nice added features. 6 micron will be a little better with moire which you may hit with interior work. Downside a little more of a crop. Go to Phase one site and see formats or I think Doug has them posted on Capture integration site.
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    On ISO: 800 ISO is a big ask for any MF back from any maker sure you can use it - just like you can use low octane fuel in a Ferrari and then watch a VW Golf blast by and listen to your engine slowly seize up.

    It would be a really good idea to test 800 ISO for the type of shooting YOU intend and then compare the actual files against 35mm cameras like the D3 if 800 ISO is as important as you say for your work - this alone might save you a lot of expense.

    On use of wides on a tech camera: Depends on what you wish to shoot and why as well as the back. Alpa have made simple horisontal or vertical shift very easy now - this may be enough for you to deliver a stitched view with wider and better and easieer to post process merged image than the expense of an uber wide like Schneiders 24 or Rodenstocks 23mm. Avoid any micro lensed backs if you wish to go tech camera -even without tilt and swing - the wider lenses will deliver you unworkable colour shift.

    Leaving aside the 800 ISO issue and given your preference for Capture One - you sound like a perfect candidate for a P45/P45+ back mated to a Mamiya camera body and perhaps their 28 and new 110 for portraits.

    It is a good time to consider adding MF to your kit as the new IQ backs hit the market and people sell both older Phase One and other brands. The user interface will draw a lot of people into the IQ series.

    Dont hesitate to consider an 'older Leaf 75 or 75s - which can probably be found for significantly less than P45's - you will love the out of the box colour from Leaf

    If I were buying new - I think Phase One is the industry 'safe' bet today.

    Good Luck and enjoy the ride.

  33. #33
    Subscriber Member kit laughlin's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Guy: thank you for that. And there is not a huge difference between 20 and 22.

    PeterA: which Alpa body were you thinking of? From what I have seen, any body with this name on it is going to be out of my price range! And I was mentioning ISO 800 as the top sensitivity I have used in the last year for outdoor work (forests can get dark!).

    I am inclining to a P40+ on a Mamiya body and just three lenses (including the 80 with the leaf shutter that Jack mentioned above).

    regards to all, KL

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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Kit - I was thinking of the 12STC - there are numerous threads on this new body in the forum do a search . If you merely wish to increase IQ versus 35mm - then your Phase One back choice mated to the lenses you mention would work for sure - and then you can always have the back mated to a tech camera down the track if that is what you need.

    I think it is very important that you try the ergonomics of MF before you buy. Irrespective of how good any of the makers IQ is - the fact of the matter is that all the makers bodies do not give you the ergomic experience you may be used to with 35mm DSLR. A tripod /monopod in the field I think is mandatory unles you have the fattest of light - you will see this very quickly as you trial the systems.

    In the studio with strobe/flash etc these systems are at their best.

    I have been fortunate in being able to afford the luxury of owning/testing pretty much all the makers offerings - but a hobbyist has different imperatives to a working pro - and I would imagine a more rational approach to capital expenditure. Phase presents the most flexibility and the best software for MF professionals and this is a great reason to consider their backs despite the limitations of their current camera bodies.

    I have ended up with my working/travel kit comprising M9/Alpa/S2.

    As an aside- I dont really have any interest in MF legacy systems any more - and my Sinar / Hasselblad / Mamiya RZ / Contax systems are pretty much sitting there gathering dust. The S2 and its lenses is just a far easier system to use in the real world for me if I need 40 megapixels...

    The lenses that Leica brings out are just better when mated to the ergonomics of their S2 body - it is such pleasure to use that really I doubt that the utility of my M system is required for anything other than its extreme portability - something which you probably dont need to concern yourself with.

    Everything is somewhat of a compromise and nothing out there does it all - you will be able to get set for probably less than 1/3rd of what you had to pay 2-3 years ago.

  35. #35
    Subscriber Member kit laughlin's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Peter, thanks for that thoughtful reply. Much to read, and digest, and I will follow up on all the references in this thread so far.

    I have a workshop to run in Italy (Piacenza); off June 2 and away for three weeks, and not sure of the quality of the internet there (last time I worked there, I had to sit on the steps outside my apartment to get any signal at all!). If my x100 arrives in time, I might have an image or two to post! Cheers to all, Kit
    Last edited by kit laughlin; 15th May 2011 at 14:50.

  36. #36
    Senior Member mediumcool's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by kit laughlin View Post
    Jack: very interesting suggestion. I am guessing that my existing 35 and 55 Mamiya lenses will be usable on this body (excuse my complete ignorance here; I got these plus the Mirex T/S adapter for the Sony)? More tomorrow!
    Kit, here is a shot from my old-ish 35mm Mamiya N on a 645AFD, first full frame, second a 100% crop (both screenshots from C1). I have recently built up a kit with 7 lenses + AFD + back for $7K AU (before the dollar went up!).





    1/180 f3.5 Aptus 22 back @ 100 sensitivity.

    Focusing is surprisingly easy with this lens.

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    Subscriber Member kit laughlin's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    medium cool: very cool! If I may ask, how did you manage to find that back and body at such a great price? and is the body model "Mamiya 645AFD"? I will look this up, too.

    Further, I am assuming that this back will produce files at least as good as the Sony A850 I am using in the studio; if anyone reading has impressions on this comparison, I will be grateful.

    Thank you!

  38. #38
    Senior Member mediumcool's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by kit laughlin View Post
    medium cool: very cool! If I may ask, how did you manage to find that back and body at such a great price? and is the body model "Mamiya 645AFD"? I will look this up, too.
    Got the 645AFD on eBay from Japan for $581 (later models are quicker but I find it quite useable). The Leaf back was through LuLa from NYC (just under $5K). 35mm ($146), 50mm shift ($499) 70mm LS ($118) and 145 SF ($184) from US eBay, 45mm and 150mm from AU eBay years ago, 80mm macro from UK eBay ($189), and the 110mm 2.8 from B+H for about $150 (crap bokeh!). Took about two years to get it all together.

    Quote Originally Posted by kit laughlin View Post
    Further, I am assuming that this back will produce files at least as good as the Sony A850 I am using in the studio; if anyone reading has impressions on this comparison, I will be grateful.

    Thank you!
    Understand the A850 is very good, but the Aptus has a creaminess combined with a crispness that I don’t see in 35 cameras (36 x 48 sensor, high bit depth @ 16 bits/colour and no AA filter all contribute). But not as sensitive as smaller cameras.

    Mamiya 645D with 35mm N




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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    "why the Leaf back?"

    Hope this comes through. Its landscape work with a tele.... not quite what one would have thought with a long lens, but the back just allows you to shoot very delicate subjects. Leaf AFI 7II, Rollei 300 APO, 100 ISO.

    Full size and 100% crop (PP in Silver Effects). In the larger file, the spider webs are sharp.
    Last edited by Geoff; 5th March 2013 at 04:40.

  40. #40
    Senior Member mediumcool's Avatar
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    Re: I really hesitate to post this query... but here goes:

    Quote Originally Posted by Geoff View Post
    "why the Leaf back?"

    Hope this comes through. Its landscape work with a tele.... not quite what one would have thought with a long lens, but the back just allows you to shoot very delicate subjects. Leaf AFI 7II, Rollei 300 APO, 100 ISO.

    Full size and 100% crop (PP in Silver Effects). In the larger file, the spider webs are sharp.
    Touch *snappy* for my taste, but delicacy is certainly in evidence.

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