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Thread: P1 lens creep

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    P1 lens creep

    Yesterday I was shooting with the LS110 lens pointed upwards at about a 45' angle. In manual focus mode, the barrel of the lens would rotate quite a bit after I released it. To get focus, I had to move the lens well beyond the focus point and let it creep back. Have not tried the other lenses (55 & 80)in this situation but they are more compact so I hope they will not creep.

    Anyone got a solution for this?

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    Re: P1 lens creep

    The HC50-110 can have the same sort of problem, in that case you can have the lens readjusted so the focusmechanism is slightly stiffer.

    This might be the solution for the LS110 too?

    Correction: in that case it was the zoom mechanism that showed this due to the weight of the glass (esp. when pointing downwards). Anyway, getting a bit more friction in the moving parts of the lens just might do it.

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    Re: P1 lens creep

    Quote Originally Posted by cunim View Post
    Yesterday I was shooting with the LS110 lens pointed upwards at about a 45' angle. In manual focus mode, the barrel of the lens would rotate quite a bit after I released it. To get focus, I had to move the lens well beyond the focus point and let it creep back. Have not tried the other lenses (55 & 80)in this situation but they are more compact so I hope they will not creep.

    Anyone got a solution for this?
    Mine does the same thing. If I point it downward (over 45 degrees) the lens will creep forward which results in loss of focus. You can just hold the lens in a vertical position (off of the camera) and watch the front start to creep downward. An odd manufacturing quirk that I'm sure has been documented either on this site or somewhere. I don't use a camera in that position often so its not a big deal to me but this should have been thought through by Schneider.

    Victor

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    Re: P1 lens creep

    Quote Originally Posted by vjbelle View Post
    but this should have been thought through by Schneider.
    I don't think this is a Schneider issue. While the glass might be first class its the result of using the crappy Mamiya 645 lens bodies. It's always been the same from when they went AF so there was less friction in the lens movement. There really should be motors in the lens but obviously some bright spark (acountant) thought different.

    If you've ever manual focused a Blad HC lens then you'll see how it should be and one of the main reasons I don't own a Phase camera for my P65.

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    Re: P1 lens creep

    I know I sound like a broken record on this but I'm sure that there's a market for manual focus versions of this glass. I know I'm not alone in shooting almost always in manual focus mode and for some (but thankfully not all) of the Mamiya mount glass that means pretty limp focussing feel.

    Every time I pick and use one my Zeiss MF 35mm lenses (or MF Mamiya glass) I'm reminded of how much nicer this medium format glass could be to use and not have to worry about creep.
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    Re: P1 lens creep

    Change the lens and body autofocus modes to Autofocus, then use our instructions to set the Autofocus of the DF body to the Rear.

    This will engage the physical mechanism that drives the AF, and thereby hold the lens in place (at least far better than when in MF mode) but still allow 100% manual operation.

    There is IMO no chance you'll see manual focus versions of these lenses. The market (which is there) is far too small to justify the R+D cost of producing, marketing, and distributing two lenses. And Phase One / Schneider use a BODY driven autofocus system, so the cost to add autofocus to a lens is much lower than with other systems.

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    Re: P1 lens creep

    Here's what I do and it works great for me. Leave the body in AF mode, as body and lens in AF mode effectively "lock" manual focus. I initially focus with the AF, you can do this however you want, using the front, rear or normal shutter button. Now to touch up manually, slip the lens clutch to manual focus, focus to desired point, then slip the lens ring back to AF to lock it in place. It is really simple, and since everything is on the focus ring itself, you do not loose your adjustment when you slip it back to the AF position.

    Works great for me, YMMV...
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    Re: P1 lens creep

    Jack/Doug,

    My approach is similar actually. I use the AF-ON only for AF selection (rear selector set up so that it matches my Nikons!) and then toggle back to MF as needed to fine tune. The AF/MF selection is ok with those lenses with the selection ring but not quite so perfect for lenses with the AF/MF clutch. Moving the clutch in/out can introduce some change in focus if you don't carefully make sure that the focus doesn't shift as you reengage the AF mode. In MF mode some of the lenses have little resistance and so are very easy to shift, particularly if you have something like a polarizer or are using a GND filter. (Yup, some people still use 'em!)

    Doug - I understand the economics unfortunately. Heck, just make sure that (a) all AF lenses use the AF/MF selector ring, (b) improve the 'feel' of the AF lenses when in MF mode, (c) have a lower gearing for MF mode so fine adjustments are easier. I realize that this is probably a tough/impossible task as you have to balance AF performance vs feel, not to mention infinity focus stop etc. I know that there's no free lunch ... To be fair, the AF/MF feel issue isn't unique to Mamiya/Phase One btw.
    Remember: adventure before dementia!

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    Re: P1 lens creep

    I do somewhat the same AF the image than slip it into manual mode via the clutch shoot than go back to AF when done. Or if i need to stay in AF mode I focus and hold release half way down to hold the AF, recompose, shoot than release.

    I never noticed lens creep with my 110mm. Maybe have to try it
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    Re: P1 lens creep

    I should add i would like to have a split focusing screen or a microprism circle of some sorts.

    Would SOMEONE please make one.
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    Re: P1 lens creep

    Quote Originally Posted by GrahamWelland View Post
    Jack/Doug,
    (b) improve the 'feel' of the AF lenses when in MF mode, (c) have a lower gearing for MF mode so fine adjustments are easier.
    Agreed. The 150mm D for instance feels (to me) very good when manually focusing. The 45D manual focus feelign is only "so-so" and is much nicer to use in Autofocus.

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    Re: P1 lens creep

    Quote Originally Posted by dougpetersonci View Post
    Change the lens and body autofocus modes to Autofocus, then use our instructions to set the Autofocus of the DF body to the Rear.

    This will engage the physical mechanism that drives the AF, and thereby hold the lens in place (at least far better than when in MF mode) but still allow 100% manual operation.

    Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
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    That is how I have my DF set up.... except I use the front button for AF..... I got used to doing it that way with my H2.

    It would be nice if there was a little more throw with the LS lenses - that would make manual focusing a little easier. +1 for a micro prism focusing screen.

    Victor

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    Re: P1 lens creep

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy Mancuso View Post
    I should add i would like to have a split focusing screen or a microprism circle of some sorts.

    Would SOMEONE please make one.
    Guy, Mamiya do have a microprism screen for 645DF - I use one!


    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search...tialSearch=yes

    Bill

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    Re: P1 lens creep

    It does say with non AF lenses. Does AF still work with it
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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