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Show us your Tech Cam

D

docmoore

Subscriber and Workshop Member
Jon,

So three rails...two rotation units which do not rotate...no concern for nodal point and to convert short to long side you remount the rig at the tripod clamp?

Does the lens holder provide rigidity and not allow lens shift? Did you drill into the rotation block to secure the strap?

Can the two rotation units be omitted with RRS quick slide connectors?

Looks bombproof and I have 90% of the parts.

I assume any planar lens of acceptable quality would work? Or a Sigma Quadro(?)....

Do you use PS or specific stitching software....and what % overlap?


Thanks in advance!


Bob
 
JonMo

JonMo

New member
The rail system is RRS "ultimate pro Omni-pivot pkg."
My fancy lens holder is a 2" chain-link fence bracket with the shape slightly modded with pliers. the one rotation block holding the lens is upside down to clamp and slide on the lower rail. The inside of my lens holder has the soft side of Velcro tape to cushion the lens.
The back of the rotating block has two existing holes to stop rotation on a regular rail mounting. I just used these 1/4" holes to mount to.
The lens holder fits snuggly around the focus wheel of the lens, when shifting; I don't just crank the camera over, but gently work the shift mech on the lens. The lens stays remarkably stable.
I use Photoshop to stitch and the amount of over lap is about 30% when;
6mm horizontal each direction which including the 23mm of the sensor to get about 35mm wide. 8mm each vertical plus 15.5mm sensor 31.5mm. The lens itself the shift is not quite perfect so a small area can be lost to crop square.
On a portrait single horizontal pano it sill shift the full 13mm one way and 12mm the other, including the 15.5mm sensor for around 40mm.
You could get rid of the rotating blocks and use quick slides but since the tolerance on my decidedly non rrs lens bracket is not perfectly precise; its nice to loosen the rotation on the lens holding one to allow it to smoothly slide over the lens without twisting it.
Any planer PC lens will work;
this is an Olympus 35 shift 1:2.8, it is the multicoated one.
at f11 it will compete with the best.
at f2.8, not so much.
Just used what I had to make something to shoot interiors again without having to use ridiculously wide crop sensor lenses.
And I think I just may hate trying "nodal" swing interiors.
Might not be smart enough.

"they can take away my big cams, but they can't stop innovation damn it!"
 
J

jlm

Workshop Member
what is your scheme for labeling (re. lens, aprerture and movements) and storage of the LCC images? and when you do take a shot, how do you keep track of the aperture, movements and therefore the required LCC?
 
J

jstn

New member
jlm said:
what is your scheme for labeling (re. lens, aprerture and movements) and storage of the LCC images? and when you do take a shot, how do you keep track of the aperture, movements and therefore the required LCC?
Click to expand...
I have two lenses, 32 HR-W and 60 XL. Through testing I've found the sharpest aperture (f/11) and hyperfocal distance for each. I almost always shoot with these settings, and usually one of a few stitching "patterns" I figured out with the help of the DT image circle visualizer. To create the library I made a list of all these combinations and shot them in order, using the Profoto's model light to keep the LCC exposure even and strong.

When I'm shooting I carry a notepad and write down the exposure number and movements for each shot. When I get back to Capture One I use the "Movements" tab of the lens correction tool to record the X and Y shift, although I've started to be able to tell just from looking which lens / stitching pattern I was using. I have my LCC presets labelled with the focal length, horizontal or vertical sensor orientation, horizontal shift, vertical shift, and a pneumonic to remind me where it's oriented, i.e. "60 V -23 15 (lower right)".

Phase One, if you're reading this, something to let us note lens movements in the field would be amazing : )
 
kdphotography

kdphotography

Well-known member
Phillip,

Tell us more about the new Cambo WRC-A70 mounting block. I'm interested in how does the quick release plate measure up (literally) against other plates (RRS, AS) in that standard. Right now I'm using the Cambo with a RRS MPR-73 3/8 on the Cube with a RRS Lever release...

Nevermind---looks like only for the WRC...
 
Last edited:
alajuela

alajuela

Active member
kdphotography said:
Phillip,

Tell us more about the new Cambo WRC-A70 mounting block. I'm interested in how does the quick release plate measure up (literally) against other plates (RRS, AS) in that standard. Right now I'm using the Cambo with a RRS MPR-73 3/8 on the Cube with a RRS Lever release...
Click to expand...
Hi Ken

I have just tried on my Monopod - which has the RRS Head (best head for a Monopod) with the QR Clamp - it is loose - I have had this head / Clamp for about 4 years,

The actual width of the plates AS / RRS / Cambo are very close within .01mm The difference seems to be in the angle of the "V" - the AS / Cambo being more like a 45 degree and the RRS being steeper. So inside the "V" the RRS is wider. I think RRS came out with a new clamp about a year ago that accommodates RRS / AS plate.

The WRC - A70 works great on the AS / QR clamps and of course on any manual screw clamp. It is also finished real nice. The WRC - A70 can not twist as it has notch where it is attached to its base. RRS makes a square one also that can not twist - I think they call it non rotational. AS does not , they have a rubber type pad, and tighten the life out them so they will not twist - does actually work - they don't twist.

I guess I should upgrade my RRS Clamp on the Monopod :(

Phil

PS --as a bonus -- check out the UPstrap - been using them for about 8 years - best camera strap out there in my opinion.
Camera Straps well matched with your camera and lens





I
 
J

jlm

Workshop Member
to check teh different bases: using the screw clamp as a fixture

mark the screw end with a pencil line , grip it on a RRS base and note the position of the line. repeat with the cambo. tells a lot about the fit
 
C

colorspace

Member
Yay cell phone images!



Rollei X-act 2 w/Credo 80 tethered to a Wacom Cintiq Compantion. I'll revisit this when I've taken some 'proper' photos.. but yes.
 
S

Smoothjazz

Active member
Hi FredBGG,
Great pics!

I am intrigued with the Fuji 680 and using my Phase IQ back, particularly to have the movements. I see that Kapture group makes an adapter with a wake up cable/box (is yours still for sale?). How did this work for you; was it usable, and not too cumbersome? How did the Fuji 680 handle? They are selling for almost nothing. I was thinking of adapting one and using it as my tech cam. I wonder if I can make some custom adapters and attach my Phase lenses to the front of it.
Thanks,
John
 
S

Sunchai

Member


the combination of:
Swing&Tilt & Focusing Base + RB shift adapter + Copal 3 behind the lens shutter + Has.lens board.

Sunchai:)
 
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