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Mamiya 80mm 1.9

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nightfire

Guest
What I'd love to know is, how does the Mamiya 50mm Shift work with backs which got microlenses such as the P30+?
I don't see any problems with the 50 Shift on my P45+ in any shift position. No strange colors etc.
 

Audii-Dudii

Active member
I don't see any problems with the 50 Shift on my P45+ in any shift position. No strange colors etc.
I'm using a modified Mamiya 50mm PC lens with my Contax 645 / P30+ combo and it works surprisingly well up until 7-8mm of shift, at which point the corners start to darken, and by 12mm of shift, they go completely black. I assume this is due to the use of microlenses rather than a lack of image circle, but either way, I have been using this lens for 90+% of my photography lately and have grown to love its rendering, even though I've not previously been a fan of Mamiya glass. For my B&W work, I don't mind the vignetting (especially when I use it at night, where the vignetting becomes effectively invisible), but for daylight color work, there's some color shift noticeable after ~5-6mm of shift and you'll probably want to correct it.

For the money, though, good samples of this lens (I understand there is some variability) represent a very good value on the used market. (As a data point, I paid just $500 for my Zoerk-modified lens early last year, which I believe is less than the cost of the Zoerk modification alone!)
 
N

nightfire

Guest
I've never experienced had lenses before. Is this something that is permanent or can be cleaned off?
If you're referring to haze, it depends on the underlying cause. Such as storage issues (microparticles - nicotine, dust, grease etc. - gradually settling on the lens over a long period of time); fungus, degradation of the cement bonding between internal elements etc.

Such flaws often are dealbreakers, even if the glass could be fixed or cleaned. I've done this myself in some cases, and disassembling/cleaning/reassembling an entire lens isn't really my idea of an afternoon well spent. In contrast, a disassembly/CLA/realignment of a lens at the Zeiss factory recently set me back $250, so in many cases it will evidently be more economical to pass on a lens with issues and continue the search.

A Mamiya 80/1.9 with internal dust and haze might actually produce some interesting results, which is why people are buying this lens in the first place. So I wouldn't rule it out right away - but of course, I wouldn't be willing to spend any serious money for such a sample either.
 

Jorgen Udvang

Subscriber Member
Easier to live in a third world country in this respect. I had fogging in my Zeiss CY 85/1.4 and feared it was a gonner, but sent it to the cleaner who charged the equivalent of $40 to disassemble, clean and put it together again. Works like a charm now :)
 

MaxKißler

New member
I'm using a modified Mamiya 50mm PC lens with my Contax 645 / P30+ combo and it works surprisingly well up until 7-8mm of shift, at which point the corners start to darken, and by 12mm of shift, they go completely black. I assume this is due to the use of microlenses rather than a lack of image circle, but either way, I have been using this lens for 90+% of my photography lately and have grown to love its rendering, even though I've not previously been a fan of Mamiya glass. For my B&W work, I don't mind the vignetting (especially when I use it at night, where the vignetting becomes effectively invisible), but for daylight color work, there's some color shift noticeable after ~5-6mm of shift and you'll probably want to correct it.

For the money, though, good samples of this lens (I understand there is some variability) represent a very good value on the used market. (As a data point, I paid just $500 for my Zoerk-modified lens early last year, which I believe is less than the cost of the Zoerk modification alone!)

Thanks, that's what I wanted to know. Does anyone have a lens hood for the 50mm shift, is there even one? Sometimes the flaring can get pretty annoying, especially when I simply forget to shade the lens with my hand. It's one of my favorites, though I often wish it would be a little wider. Sorry Fred, didn't mean to hijack your thread. I'll post some images taken with the 80mm 1.9 soon.
 

Audii-Dudii

Active member
Thanks, that's what I wanted to know. Does anyone have a lens hood for the 50mm shift, is there even one? Sometimes the flaring can get pretty annoying, especially when I simply forget to shade the lens with my hand. It's one of my favorites, though I often wish it would be a little wider.
Not surprisingly, Mamiya make a compendium shade that works well for me and used ones can be found on eBay for not much money (compared to, say, the Contax compendium shade). As it happens, I have my camera here at work with me today, so I've posted a photo of it below ... can't recall the part number, though.

You're correct about the potential for this lens to flare -- especially here in bright, sunny Arizona! -- but the shade can be extended quite far before it starts to vignette the image area (one of the few benefits of using a 1.3X sensor!) and as such, I rarely find flare to be a problem. I've posted a sample below that was shot directly into the sun (although it's hidden behind a palm tree) with ~6mm of shift (and no post-processing treatment for the vignetting); the other sample used ~10mm of shift and I did lighten the upper corners by maybe a stop. I didn't bother with shooting an LCC in either case (and in fact, I rarely bother to do so.)

And I, too, wish this lens had a wider focal length ... 45mm would be nice and 40mm would be perfect for my P30+'s 1.3X sensor. Which is why I'm working on an adapter that will not only allow me to use Hasselblad V lenses on my Contax body and has ~10mm of shift movement built in ... stay tuned!
 

Willow

New member
Got my 80mm 1.9 from KEH a few days ago and yesterday I used it for a quick shot. Full open.
I think it will take some time before I get used to it and can get some good shots with it.

Its hard to nail the focus. :)
 

ondebanks

Member
Are there other Mamiya manual focus 645 lenses that are worth having, like a wide angle and a tele?
Apart from the 80/1.9, there are two others that I cannot do without - that virtually trap me within the Mamiya 645 system as I cannot find their like in any other MF system! - the 24/4 ULD fisheye, and the the 200/2.8 APO. There are not enough superlatives to describe their performance at and close to wide open, which is where I mainly shoot.

Ray
 
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