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Thread: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

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    Member Mario's Avatar
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    New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Hi everyone!

    New member here, friend of Shelby Lewis. I'm a full time portrait photographer based out of Denver, Colorado with an emphasis on high-end styled HS Senior Portraits. Will be adding a MF system to the arsenal within the next month or two and am hoping to utilize GetDPI as a great transition resource. Currently looking at the 645DF/Leaf-II 6/7/8 and 80mm LS to start, and am closely considering the H4D-31/40 as well (very open to opinions on this!). I currently shoot with Canon 1Ds's, 24/35/50/85L glass, and a variety of misc. gear.









    Last edited by Mario; 21st January 2012 at 11:30.

  2. #2
    Shelby Lewis
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Hey Mario... I wondered how long it would be before I saw you over here!

    It's a great place where the folks are especially keen to question the "why" of MF. I look at your images and, like we've talked about on facebook, wonder which direction would allow you the freedom to shoot the way you do and keep the same free quality that your images have.

    Currently I think the IQ backs have it over the aptus line in this regard as they allow for better focus checking and generally faster operation... BUT I still wonder if hasselblad might be best for you. The true-focus system might be a fantastic tool for your images and your off-center compositions... and, I'll say it again, that 100/2.2 is to die for. The leaf shutter in the hassy system allows for sync at all shutter speeds up to 1/800th. The DF with the LS lenses is similar (better in some regards).

    But, my the price! I know you're in the same budget I was looking at... which will restrict just how much DSLR-like function you are going to get out of your MF camera. Lower price = slower, lol.

    I can say this... if anyone here goes and watched any of your behind-the-scenes videos, they'll all tell you that MF will not be the way to go for you as the AF is too slow and depth of field control too imprecise. Yet, if you're looking to slow down with your shooting and aim for similar images but captured with a bit more thoughtfulness and slower pace, the MF will pay off in spades with higher image quality and incredible tonal expansiveness.

    For me, the change has been worth it, but it means shooting 50 careful frames in a session (and trusting I can pull it off) instead of 500.

    Lovely work, dude!

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    Senior Member yaya's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by Shelby Lewis View Post
    I can say this... if anyone here goes and watched any of your behind-the-scenes videos, they'll all tell you that MF will not be the way to go for you as the AF is too slow and depth of field control too imprecise. Yet, if you're looking to slow down with your shooting and aim for similar images but captured with a bit more thoughtfulness and slower pace, the MF will pay off in spades with higher image quality and incredible tonal expansiveness.
    As you probably will agree Shelby, AF is sometimes highly overrated:-)

    Cesar Lloreda in action

    Nice work Mario and let us know if you need any advice!

    Yair
    Yair Shahar | Product Manager | Phase One | Mamiya Leaf
    e: [email protected] | m: +44(0)77 8992 8199 | yaya's blog

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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Welcome Mario!

    No shunning here.

    If you have the budget, do be sure to also demo the H4D/40 with True Focus-Absolute Position Lock ... very fast camera, and when coupled with a HC100/2.2 will produce the subject isolation and draw very similar to using a 85/1.2 @ about f/1.4 ... only with much greater dynamic range and of course file size.

    If on a more restricted budget, a H3D-II/31 is an excellent alternative for a very reasonable price.

    The ISO range goes to 1600 and is very good. Hasselblad RAW files are now fully supported in Adobe Light Room including the Hasselblad True Color embedded profile and all HC and HCD lens corrections. So, if you are a LR user nothing will change. Hasselblad has recently released new firmware for the H4D/40 camera that doubled the LCD resolution and added an instant one touch 100% focus check feature.

    I am primarily a photojournalist type wedding photographer and have shot fast paced weddings and engagement sessions, with and without lighting, using a H3D-II/31 or H4D/40 (see samples below) ... as well as portrait work and commercial assignments. Based on your posted samples, you will not find the H4D/40 all that different from working with a DSLR, the capture rate isn't as fast of course, but fast enough to shoot a wedding with. Give it a try.

    Best of luck on your quest.

    -Marc

    (Just click on any attached thumbnail to see larger pics)

    BTW, if you decide to go the same route as Shelby, I have a mint Mamiya RZ Pro-IID, and a closet full of lenses I will be soon selling to help pay for a Leica S2 lens cap ...

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    Senior Member johnnygoesdigital's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Hi Mario,

    I also had the 1DsMkII, and have owned the H3d/31, H4d/40, and DF/P45+. Out off all those models, the H3d/31 was my favorite! It's form factor was perfect, it was the least finicky, and a great deal. The file sizes were reasonable, so I didn't need to upgrade my computer too. The difference in quality was outstanding. Also, an H4d/31 is a great deal with good ISO for MFD, and TF. There's something about using MFD, that makes you think and compose with more thought and purpose, and I think that results in better photography.

    Another thought would be to consider an H1/H2, with a pre - owned DB from Capture Integration or Digital Transitions. It's around half of the investment of an H4d/31 and allows the upgrade to an H4x with all the features of the higher end models, and the ability to use any "H" mount DB.

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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by Shelby Lewis View Post
    The leaf shutter in the hassy system allows for sync at all shutter speeds up to 1/800th. The DF with the LS lenses is similar (better in some regards).
    The DF with LS lenses though can also use the body shutter when needed for faster shutter speeds. So in addition to syncing with flash at 1/1600 you can also shoot ambient light (with e.g. a sunbounce as needed) down to 1/4000. Since you seem to favor shooting side open you should be aware that 1/800 can be a limitation when shooting at ISO100 wide open.

    Since you'll be shooting relatively high volume (note that some on this board shoot 10-12 pictures max per day - that's what I mean by "relatively") you'll also want to explore the workflow software you'll end up using with whatever backs you're considering. The skintone consistency tools, batch processing, focus mask, loupe tool, styles system, very high speed batch editing, Capture Pilot on the iPad for client selections, and color editor tools in Capture One makes (in my very biased opinion) a fantastic tool for a senior portrait photographer. You'll be spending at least as much time in software as shooting (even with a fast/efficient workflow), so this matters a lot.

    But regardless you won't be shunned for choosing whatever system you find works best for you. There are shooters of every brand on this forum, even several that are no longer made. The important thing is to try, wherever possible, to get your hands on the equipment and see what pros and cons matter most to you in actual shooting (e.g. you may find my observation about shutter speed limitations to be completely irrelevant to how you shoot once it's in your hands, or you may find it to be a major factor).

    Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    I'm shooting another round of models today 5 actually my kit is really simple. Phase One IQ 160 on sensor plus since I really don't need the 60 mpx size files, 110LS lens and 80 LS lens both in the studio with Profoto D1's and outside I use a Profoto Acute 600 battery unit with shutter reaching as high as 1/1600 with my V grip. I don't miss focus often and if I do it is usually my fault not the DF. Its fast and accurate for this stuff, the trick is knowing your gear no matter what system you chose.

    BTW we don't shun anyone here and if someone does the have hell to pay. LOL
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

    www.guymancusophotography.com

  8. #8
    Shelby Lewis
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by fotografz View Post
    Welcome Mario!

    If on a more restricted budget, a H3D-II/31 is an excellent alternative for a very reasonable price.
    I think you've heard this one before Mario ... I think the 31 is one of the under-rated values out there. There are also a small minority of us that use Lightroom to great affect with our MF files. In general C1 is a much better raw converter for most of the backs, but since LR3, adobe has closed the gap.

    I've been using the LR4 beta and am VERY impressed how it works with my aptus II 6 (28mp) files. Because I'm a student and broke most of the time, I'm using the Paul Buff Einstein lights with Vaganbond mini-lithium power on-location... triggered with normal pocketwizards (up to 1/400th!) on my RZ since it has leaf shutter lenses.

    Marc... let me know when you decide to sell your RZ stuff. If you break apart your kit, I want your T/S adapter and a few of your lenses plus some odds and ends!

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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by Shelby Lewis View Post
    I think you've heard this one before Mario ... I think the 31 is one of the under-rated values out there. There are also a small minority of us that use Lightroom to great affect with our MF files. In general C1 is a much better raw converter for most of the backs, but since LR3, adobe has closed the gap. I've been using the LR4 beta and am VERY impressed how it works with my aptus II 6 (28mp) files.
    Indeed, I'm very eager for LR4 and C1 7 to be released and have their initial kinks worked out. I expect both will be great tools for digital back owners.


    Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by Shashin View Post
    Just feel lucky you did not think of using a Pentax 645D or Leica S2!

    Welcome.
    Honestly comments like these are not warranted nor are they friendly to the forum and its members. Just sayin comments like this create the problems to start with.
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

    www.guymancusophotography.com

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    Super Duper
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Guy, sorry. I will delete my post. Perhaps Mario can edit his original post for the idea he got from Shelby. Perhaps Shelby should not have made the suggestion either. Certainly the topic seems too sensitive to joke about. Just saying'...

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    Member Mario's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by Shelby Lewis View Post
    Hey Mario... I wondered how long it would be before I saw you over here!

    It's a great place where the folks are especially keen to question the "why" of MF. I look at your images and, like we've talked about on facebook, wonder which direction would allow you the freedom to shoot the way you do and keep the same free quality that your images have.

    Currently I think the IQ backs have it over the aptus line in this regard as they allow for better focus checking and generally faster operation... BUT I still wonder if hasselblad might be best for you. The true-focus system might be a fantastic tool for your images and your off-center compositions... and, I'll say it again, that 100/2.2 is to die for. The leaf shutter in the hassy system allows for sync at all shutter speeds up to 1/800th. The DF with the LS lenses is similar (better in some regards).

    But, my the price! I know you're in the same budget I was looking at... which will restrict just how much DSLR-like function you are going to get out of your MF camera. Lower price = slower, lol.

    I can say this... if anyone here goes and watched any of your behind-the-scenes videos, they'll all tell you that MF will not be the way to go for you as the AF is too slow and depth of field control too imprecise. Yet, if you're looking to slow down with your shooting and aim for similar images but captured with a bit more thoughtfulness and slower pace, the MF will pay off in spades with higher image quality and incredible tonal expansiveness.

    For me, the change has been worth it, but it means shooting 50 careful frames in a session (and trusting I can pull it off) instead of 500.

    Lovely work, dude!
    Thanks man. I definitely owe you a few beers at some point for listening to all my rambling with MFD haha.

    A huge appeal to MFD is definitely slowing my shooting style down. I'm down to shooting about 200-250 frames for a Senior client which seems pretty attainable with MFD with little change in how I am shooting now. Famous last words though right? Don't let the behind-the-scenes fool you... they are definitely meant to show a high energy.

    From the echoes it sounds like the Hassy is potentially a better camera for me. I'm trying to find a local dealer that can let me test drive one.

    I really wish I could multi-quote replies on this board.. so here I go one by one! Haha.

  13. #13
    Member Mario's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by yaya View Post
    As you probably will agree Shelby, AF is sometimes highly overrated:-)

    Cesar Lloreda in action

    Nice work Mario and let us know if you need any advice!

    Yair
    Awesome to watch! Thanks for sharing.

    Quote Originally Posted by fotografz View Post
    Welcome Mario!

    No shunning here.

    If you have the budget, do be sure to also demo the H4D/40 with True Focus-Absolute Position Lock ... very fast camera, and when coupled with a HC100/2.2 will produce the subject isolation and draw very similar to using a 85/1.2 @ about f/1.4 ... only with much greater dynamic range and of course file size.

    If on a more restricted budget, a H3D-II/31 is an excellent alternative for a very reasonable price.

    The ISO range goes to 1600 and is very good. Hasselblad RAW files are now fully supported in Adobe Light Room including the Hasselblad True Color embedded profile and all HC and HCD lens corrections. So, if you are a LR user nothing will change. Hasselblad has recently released new firmware for the H4D/40 camera that doubled the LCD resolution and added an instant one touch 100% focus check feature.

    I am primarily a photojournalist type wedding photographer and have shot fast paced weddings and engagement sessions, with and without lighting, using a H3D-II/31 or H4D/40 (see samples below) ... as well as portrait work and commercial assignments. Based on your posted samples, you will not find the H4D/40 all that different from working with a DSLR, the capture rate isn't as fast of course, but fast enough to shoot a wedding with. Give it a try.

    Best of luck on your quest.

    -Marc

    (Just click on any attached thumbnail to see larger pics)

    BTW, if you decide to go the same route as Shelby, I have a mint Mamiya RZ Pro-IID, and a closet full of lenses I will be soon selling to help pay for a Leica S2 lens cap ...
    Thanks so much for the insight! Pretty work as well. Shooting events is definitely not my thing but I am impressed to see you do it well. Great to know about ISO and the workflow. The APL system is definitely intriguing me. Does the H4D/31 have the same focusing features as the H4D/40? My research is not saying yes... but it's not saying no either.

    Quote Originally Posted by johnnygoesdigital View Post
    Hi Mario,

    I also had the 1DsMkII, and have owned the H3d/31, H4d/40, and DF/P45+. Out off all those models, the H3d/31 was my favorite! It's form factor was perfect, it was the least finicky, and a great deal. The file sizes were reasonable, so I didn't need to upgrade my computer too. The difference in quality was outstanding. Also, an H4d/31 is a great deal with good ISO for MFD, and TF. There's something about using MFD, that makes you think and compose with more thought and purpose, and I think that results in better photography.

    Another thought would be to consider an H1/H2, with a pre - owned DB from Capture Integration or Digital Transitions. It's around half of the investment of an H4d/31 and allows the upgrade to an H4x with all the features of the higher end models, and the ability to use any "H" mount DB.
    Great to know about the H3D/31... I had not even considered it. I'm slightly nervous though as I am having trouble finding pricing, more or less units for sale. Is there any sort of ballpark price on what they go for?

    Quote Originally Posted by dougpetersonci View Post
    The DF with LS lenses though can also use the body shutter when needed for faster shutter speeds. So in addition to syncing with flash at 1/1600 you can also shoot ambient light (with e.g. a sunbounce as needed) down to 1/4000. Since you seem to favor shooting side open you should be aware that 1/800 can be a limitation when shooting at ISO100 wide open.

    Since you'll be shooting relatively high volume (note that some on this board shoot 10-12 pictures max per day - that's what I mean by "relatively") you'll also want to explore the workflow software you'll end up using with whatever backs you're considering. The skintone consistency tools, batch processing, focus mask, loupe tool, styles system, very high speed batch editing, Capture Pilot on the iPad for client selections, and color editor tools in Capture One makes (in my very biased opinion) a fantastic tool for a senior portrait photographer. You'll be spending at least as much time in software as shooting (even with a fast/efficient workflow), so this matters a lot.

    But regardless you won't be shunned for choosing whatever system you find works best for you. There are shooters of every brand on this forum, even several that are no longer made. The important thing is to try, wherever possible, to get your hands on the equipment and see what pros and cons matter most to you in actual shooting (e.g. you may find my observation about shutter speed limitations to be completely irrelevant to how you shoot once it's in your hands, or you may find it to be a major factor).

    Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
    __________________

    Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
    Phase One Partner of the Year
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    Great to know. I definitely want to use LS lenses as I tend to strobe a lot (and am thinking that'll be even truer as I switch to MFD). My workflow is spot on right now (investing less than ten hours a client with shooting, post-production, sales, etc.) however I am definitely expecting some change I am hoping that an already lean and efficient system will help make that transition a bit simpler.

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy Mancuso View Post
    I'm shooting another round of models today 5 actually my kit is really simple. Phase One IQ 160 on sensor plus since I really don't need the 60 mpx size files, 110LS lens and 80 LS lens both in the studio with Profoto D1's and outside I use a Profoto Acute 600 battery unit with shutter reaching as high as 1/1600 with my V grip. I don't miss focus often and if I do it is usually my fault not the DF. Its fast and accurate for this stuff, the trick is knowing your gear no matter what system you chose.

    BTW we don't shun anyone here and if someone does the have hell to pay. LOL
    Great to know. I'll be using 640w/s lights on location however I am keeping that side of purchasing open as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shelby Lewis View Post
    I think you've heard this one before Mario ... I think the 31 is one of the under-rated values out there. There are also a small minority of us that use Lightroom to great affect with our MF files. In general C1 is a much better raw converter for most of the backs, but since LR3, adobe has closed the gap.

    I've been using the LR4 beta and am VERY impressed how it works with my aptus II 6 (28mp) files. Because I'm a student and broke most of the time, I'm using the Paul Buff Einstein lights with Vaganbond mini-lithium power on-location... triggered with normal pocketwizards (up to 1/400th!) on my RZ since it has leaf shutter lenses.

    Marc... let me know when you decide to sell your RZ stuff. If you break apart your kit, I want your T/S adapter and a few of your lenses plus some odds and ends!
    Great to know about LR! I am definitely enjoying the upgrades that LR4 has to offer but I've been eying C1 as a potential switch too.

  14. #14
    Shelby Lewis
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by Shashin View Post
    Guy, sorry. I will delete my post. Perhaps Mario can edit his original post for the idea he got from Shelby. Perhaps Shelby should not have made the suggestion either. Certainly the topic seems too sensitive to joke about. Just saying'...
    Huh?

    Mario and I have a long (long!) backstory that includes coming up through the ranks shooting seniors with the same types of equipment... I jumped to MF and when he decided he wanted to , he just asked my opinion. We've been friends for years. I gave it to him, but never have I disparaged any of the other brands. Ask him, he'll tell you when he's all excited about a articular camera I'll say "I'm not so sure...". If you're talking about Mario's "shunned" statement... those weren't my words. That was, in my perception, just him joking about my thoughts about this being a phase/landscape-heavy forum. He knows this is an open, friendly, cool place to be... thus the winky emoticon.

    There are biases on this board, but they are for good reasons, oftetimes. I'll point them out, but I'll never discourage someone from trying a particular camera/software out.

    Please, point out where I've made a comment that should be deleted and I'll pull it.

    With exception to the tenor of the comment about the 645D, I'm glad the pentax was brought up. I didn't mention the Leica because I personally know Mario and his budget and the Leica seems, IMO, beyond his budget (even though it would be PERFECT for him).

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    Member Mario's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by Shelby Lewis View Post
    Huh?

    Mario and I have a long (long!) backstory that includes coming up through the ranks shooting seniors with the same types of equipment... I jumped to MF and when he decided he wanted to , he just asked my opinion. We've been friends for years. I gave it to him, but never have I disparaged any of the other brands. Ask him, he'll tell you when he's all excited about a articular camera I'll say "I'm not so sure...". If you're talking about Mario's "shunned" statement... those weren't my words. That was, in my perception, just him joking about my thoughts about this being a phase/landscape-heavy forum. He knows this is an open, friendly, cool place to be... thus the winky emoticon.

    There are biases on this board, but they are for good reasons, oftetimes. I'll point them out, but I'll never discourage someone from trying a particular camera/software out.

    Please, point out where I've made a comment that should be deleted and I'll pull it.

    With exception to the tenor of the comment about the 645D, I'm glad the pentax was brought up. I didn't mention the Leica because I personally know Mario and his budget and the Leica seems, IMO, beyond his budget (even though it would be PERFECT for him).
    Sorry guys, this should have been better executed. Shelby and I definitely go way back and it's all tongue in cheek.

    And I thought the Canon/Nikon war was a brutal one.

    No harm no foul.

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    Senior Member David Schneider's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Mario,

    Maybe 85% of my senior season is July and August and I do about 150 seniors in total from June to mid-October.

    There's a few things to consider. Size prints that are ordered, volume of sessions and workflow (and who is doing that workflow), if you think there's marketing value to using mf, will you be in situations that require ISO over 800, are you using a tripod for virtually all images, can you live with dof that's about two stops less than dslr, are you ok with limited number of zoom lenses, etc.

    My use of mf for seniors is generally limited to my winter "model/rep/ambassador" images when I have time, can do what I want, and am not worried about a day packed with back to back sessions and the resulting workflow from those kind of days. While I sell a nice percentage of wall portraits to seniors, the overwhelming majority of those are composites of 3-7 images so the quality differences of mfd over dlsr are not that noticeable as each image isn't that large.

    Of course, there's a certain satisfaction that you are producing files and images that are superior to your dslr work that is hard to put a price on. That doesn't show up on profit and loss statement.
    Likes 1 Member(s) liked this post

  17. #17
    Member Mario's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by David Schneider View Post
    Mario,

    Maybe 85% of my senior season is July and August and I do about 150 seniors in total from June to mid-October.

    There's a few things to consider. Size prints that are ordered, volume of sessions and workflow (and who is doing that workflow), if you think there's marketing value to using mf, will you be in situations that require ISO over 800, are you using a tripod for virtually all images, can you live with dof that's about two stops less than dslr, are you ok with limited number of zoom lenses, etc.

    My use of mf for seniors is generally limited to my winter "model/rep/ambassador" images when I have time, can do what I want, and am not worried about a day packed with back to back sessions and the resulting workflow from those kind of days. While I sell a nice percentage of wall portraits to seniors, the overwhelming majority of those are composites of 3-7 images so the quality differences of mfd over dlsr are not that noticeable as each image isn't that large.

    Of course, there's a certain satisfaction that you are producing files and images that are superior to your dslr work that is hard to put a price on. That doesn't show up on profit and loss statement.
    David,

    You are absolutely right. I am lucky that I am a relatively low volume shooter. I won't shoot more than 50-60 Seniors a year, and no more than 4 a week. My clients really do get undivided attention from me.

    I'm extremely fortunate to have done a fantastic job at differentiating myself in a overall very saturated industry. MFD has this appeal of creating a. overall better files and b. perceived higher value from my clients. Silly? Perhaps. But I'm at the price point where they will appreciate it.

    I expect (and almost look forward to) the hiccups of switching systems to be quite honest. Might sound a little reckless, but I pride myself on not only making things work but making them work well.

  18. #18
    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Mario one thing to point out on flash sync . To achieve these 1/800 and 1/1600 shutter speeds you really need very very short flash duration strobes and a lot of flash systems out there will not get there so in many cases that would mean cutting power to get those short flash durations. So you really need to pick your strobe systems correctly to match. On the camera system Hassy can go to 1/800, Phase can go to 1/1600 with there LS lenses. Leica S2 does not have any leaf lenses in the market yet although its been promised and Pentax i don't believe has any Leaf shutter lenses and is a focal plane system. So if you need these high sync speeds than right now Hassy and Phase are the ones to consider. I think the Pentax like Nikon/Canon go to 1/250. Now this really depends on YOUR needs and in a lot of case the weather zone your in. I'm in the desert with tons of hot sun so for me it is a real need. Its all about balance here. Good luck in your choices and as we always say around here do your homework and try them out first. A lot of money here to be guessing at it.

    BTW that was the highlights on it but its very involved on the whole flash system camera system combination. If the high sync is a major priority for you than you really need to investigate it.
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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  19. #19
    Shelby Lewis
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    This is a great rehash of all the systems and how the peripheral issues are so important... things like flash duration become very important with these LS lenses.

    It's actually why I like the RZ so much. It's a tweener of sorts with regards to flash capability. It has a higher flash sync than focal plane cameras, but not so high that I run into problems with slow durations with my strobes. The downside is the max shutter speed (and the fact that the camera is a tank).

    That's why I think the Hassy system is so nice for portrait/senior work... it sits in nice place, IMO, as far as capabilities with its flash system and lens selection.

    Mario hasn't said so, but he's been using regular pocket wizards (unless something has changed) and the slower sync associated with non-ttl sync speeds on the canon system... so the higher sync of the LS lenses and all will be a whole new world.

    I personally LOVE the fact that I don't even think about sync speed anymore... that my lenses sync at any speed. Leaf shutter lenses are so liberating for my kind of work. Maybe not so much for others. I might just pick up the next iteration phase 645 body to use with a couple of the LS lenses alongside of my RZ.

    Mario... a cheaper way to get into MF while not changing your current workflow is to continue shooting canon and start out with the RZ67 Pro IID (which uses a mamiya mount back). Lenses are stupidly cheap and very good. They're all leaf shutter lenses as well. Continue to shoot canon when needed and then later on add a 645 body and few DF lenses as well... the back can then be used on both bodies. The rendering of the RZ lenses is a whole different world than the 645 lenses. Not better/worse... just different.

    I still pull out my 5Dii on occasion.
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  20. #20
    Senior Member David Schneider's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Small point, but in looking at systems, it's worth noticing that MamiyaLeaf does not show the RZ67 line on it's website. I don't know what that means, but if I was thinking about an RZ ProIID, I'd fine out before I got one.

    Even smaller point is while the RZ Pro IID has great curb appeal and is an impressive looking piece of gear, there is some added weight to think about if doing on-location work, and based on the sample images, that happens a lot of the time. Add to that the back-up camera/lens you probably have handy in case of the unforeseen and the weight starts to get up there.
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by David Schneider View Post
    Small point, but in looking at systems, it's worth noticing that MamiyaLeaf does not show the RZ67 line on it's website. I don't know what that means, but if I was thinking about an RZ ProIID, I'd fine out before I got one.

    Even smaller point is while the RZ Pro IID has great curb appeal and is an impressive looking piece of gear, there is some added weight to think about if doing on-location work, and based on the sample images, that happens a lot of the time. Add to that the back-up camera/lens you probably have handy in case of the unforeseen and the weight starts to get up there.
    Mamiya+Leaf have gone through a few rebrandings since Leaf, Mamiya, and Phase One hooked up.

    My understanding is they are just behind on getting specific content from the previous various Leaf and Mamiya international sites into the new consolidated single-website-for-everything identity.

    The RZ Pro IID is still a current product (some limitations on importation to Europe due to environmental regulations) and is supported by every Leaf, Mamiya, and Phase One M mount back including all the latest backs (P65+, P40+, IQ, Leaf Aptus II 10 and 12).

    It's no secret or shame that there are far fewer sales of RZ than DF based backs (the market for those ok with manually focusing is inherently smaller today and it's a larger/heavier camera). But those who have them absolutely love them and since it's a manual focus camera with manual control lenses (meaning there isn't anything to "improve") and all the design/manufacturing/bug-fixing is already done I suspect you'll see the RZ in production as a current product well into the future.

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    Senior Member David Schneider's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by dougpetersonci View Post
    Mamiya+Leaf have gone through a few rebrandings since Leaf, Mamiya, and Phase One hooked up.

    My understanding is they are just behind on getting specific content from the previous various Leaf and Mamiya international sites into the new consolidated single-website-for-everything identity.
    Doug.

    Thanks for update. Does seem odd that if you put the RZ ProDII into a search engine and click on the Mamaya-USA link thinking that's the best place to get info and it takes you to MamayaLeaf with no mention of the camera.

    Sorry for the hijack of the thread.

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    Senior Member yaya's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by David Schneider View Post
    Doug.

    Thanks for update. Does seem odd that if you put the RZ ProDII into a search engine and click on the Mamaya-USA link thinking that's the best place to get info and it takes you to MamayaLeaf with no mention of the camera.

    Sorry for the hijack of the thread.
    We're in the process of editing & migrating data from the old mamiya-usa site into a special section on Mamiya Leaf

    For those on a budget a used RZ ProII can save you a buck or two and it works just fine with all Aptus-II backs, with 4 mounts to choose from: M, V, H or AFi, note that two of these are 645 AF cameras...

    All our adapters let you rotate the back on the camera body

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    Member Mario's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Hasselblad rep just left... quite giddy. I'll be demoing the H4D-31 and H4D-50 over the next few weeks at some shoots. Camera felt fantastic, ergonomics was great, ISO1600 was beyond impressive (looked comparable to my 1Ds on the few shots I took). Can't wait to put it through the ringer and see how it does.

    Phase Rep just had twins and is still in the NICU but looking forward to meeting him as well.

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    Senior Member David Schneider's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Mario,

    One the small points, you might find the H4d has less vibration due to shutters in lenses. Additionally, there's a delay in mirror slap you can adjust. It's a factor if hand holding.

    It's very easy for someone else to spend your money, but if you are getting family sessions from your seniors (I work pretty hard at it) then you'll appreciate the larger sensor of the H4d-50. On the other hand, if you think the higher ISO of the H4d-31 is more important, you appreciate that. Either one (or comparable Phase/Mamiya) will keep any Nikon or Canon in the camera bag for a family photo session.

    I would suggest when you test, duplicate the image with your 1Ds at the exact same time for a few files. Of course, the danger in doing that is it will empty out your wallet when you see the results.
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Mario, why are you not trying the H4d-40?

    The Kodak chip in that camera is supposed to be a gem!

    As an SLR, I was mad for the H4d-50! The Phase (DF) camera was a big let down next to it.

    For me, there was very little difference in image quality between the Phase One and Hasselblad digital backs and both companies produce great lenses. It all boiled down to how it handled as a camera and how well the software worked.

    In the end, I was more interested in tech camera use rather than as an SLR and Phase backs and Capture One software is easier/better to use with a tech camera than Phocus so I purchased Phase One.

    By the way, the H4d-50 will blow the socks off your 1Ds so be prepared for poverty!

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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by Mario View Post
    A huge appeal to MFD is definitely slowing my shooting style down.
    Mario you can slow down your shooting style by simply giving things more thought.

    There are times when I will shoot an A list client and maybe only shoot 6 to 12 shots total over 15 minutes.... and that could be with a film, digital... MF or 35mm DSLR.
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    There are two principal difference that you will get shooting MF instead of 35mm DSLR.

    More dynamic range (compared to the 1Ds) and far better blacks.

    The look of MF lenses depending on what lenses you get.

    Quite a few modern MF lenses will not give you what you need.
    You are shooting portraits so hyper resolution is not something you need, actually it can be a problem.

    Looking at you images I don't think you will like the Mamiya/Phase 80mm 2.8 LS.
    These lenses have to be designed to fit the super fast leaf shutter that cannot be larger than a certain size.

    Looking at your samples I'm guessing that shooting wide open and isolating your subjects from the background is important, but you also don't go for long lenses as you images have a touch of intimacy of shorter lenses.

    Of all the MF lenses I have used and tested (very many) the best for this look are:

    645 and 6x6 MF:
    110mm f2 Carl Zeiss Hasselblad (or Rollie)
    150mm 2.8 Carl Zeiss Contax or Hasselblad
    180mm 2.8 Carl Zeiss Jena Pentacon.
    100mm f2.2 Fuji/Hasselblad H
    80mm f2 Carl Zeiss Contax or Rollie

    6x7 and 6x8 Medium format.

    180mm 3.2 Fuji GX680
    125mm 3.2 Fuji GX680
    250mm 5.6 Fuji GX680

    110mm 2.8 Mamiya RZ
    150mm 3.5 Mamiya RZ


    Another important thing for you to keep in mind is maximum shutter speed. The higher you can go the more you can take advantage of shooting wide open.
    The Hasselblad H is limited in this feature with a max speed of 1/800th.
    Mamiya RZ only 1/400th 1/500th
    Fuji GX680 is also limited to 1/400th, but you can fit a neutral density filter behind the mirror so you can still have a nice bright viewfinder (actually the best viewfinder of all MF).
    The Mamiya Phase goes up to 1/4000th.

    Hasselblad True Focus won't make a big difference for you. It is most effective with wider lenses and you compositions don't look like you need to do that much focus and recompose. It also does not account for in axis movements.


    The Mamiya/Phase is a nice body to give you more options.

    With adapters you can shoot with focus confirmation with lenses like the one of a kind Carl Zeiss 110mm f2 with an adapter and go as fast as 1/4000th.
    You can also get an LS lens as a fast 1/1600th of a second flash sync.

    The Hasselblad H system only has leaf shutters so you cannot use other lenses.

    Regarding sensors.. don't go for a massive MP count. For what you (and I do) sensor size is important.
    No point moving from FF top of the line DSLR to shoot crop frame on a MF camera.

    You should also consider film. You mentioned that you want MF to distinguish you more. The distinct look of LARGE MF film (6x7 and 6x8)
    can't even be matched by the best MF digital.

    Don't expect the reliability of your Canon 1Ds III from MF digital cameras. Very few cameras are built like the Canon 1d cameras.
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    Senior Member johnnygoesdigital's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Mario,

    I think you'll really like the H4D/31. The crop sensor favors portrait scenarios, and the micro lenses will allow great low light hand held shots too. It's really up to the lenses to resolve all these MP's, and personally, if your not printing billboards, what's the point - Buy extra lenses instead. I think the "H" models are the easiest to use all day long! They fit perfectly in any orientation. Don't fall prey to pixel envy, it's not worth it...the H4d/31 is the perfect size for resolution and budget...you'll be amazed!
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    +1

    Greg

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    Member Mario's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Thanks for all the thoughts. The Hassy rep didn't have a 31/40 available right away, but he did have a 50. I figure I would take out for kicks.

    MF definitely lives up to the hype... the files are unreal. Camera was comfortable. Menu is simple and straight forward. I think I had a faulty battery as it lasted for less than 200 captures. The lens locked up once. My friend Shelby (ha!) let me squeal, curse, jump, frown, and take some pictures for the day.


    Testing and abusing the high sync speed. Taken at 11:30a on a full bright sunny day. This was the second capture with the camera ever:



    Better balance with ambient:



    Testing backlight and tonal gradations:





    Testing full on flare. Focusing was a breeze and the 80 eats sunlight gorgeously:



    The Mario classic shot... motion/spinning. Significantly less keepers, but overall I didn't find it impossible to get what I wanted.


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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Be sure to test the focal lengths that are best for you.

    While the tests you did show technical foreground quality
    the bokeh is not as nice as your Canon images.

    Also I would suggest you hold off on any decision on a MF system until you test
    a couple of other cameras.

    A few things you should keep in mind.

    Fuji's new sensor technology debuting in the X-pro 1. Looks simply amazing even on a small sensor.
    No anti alias filter on it.

    Nikon will have a 36MP camera without an anti alias filter.

    Canon is coming out with a 50 to 110mm f2 zoom. Give or take a few millimeters. Short range, but prime lens quality.

    Going back to MF I strongly recommend a larger sensor. Even if it's 22 MP. Don't go for 33x44mm sensors.
    36x48 or above. No point shooting MF on a crop sensor. The type of depth and dimension that a bigger sensor gives you is something your customers will perceive more than resolution.

    Canon's new 18mp sensor is rumored (a bit more than rumored) to have a large improvement in dynamic range.

    One last thing. I don't agree with the reasoning that for family shoots you need MF. Flexibility and speed of a top of the line 35mm DSLR
    will outweigh shooting with MF. And take this from a photographer obsessed with larger formats.... hell I even shoot beauty on location with an 8x10
    and heave around my Fuji GX680 cameras all over the place.

    One other thing I'd like to bring up is film.

    You mentioned that you what to differentiate yourself form the rest of the market. Well I think the great photos you take have already done most of that
    You might want to consider a digital and film combination. While MF digital is great it still has a look that is quite similar from a pictorical point of view as
    the very best 35mm DSLR cameras with certain stand out lenses like the 85mm 1.2, 100mm f2 etc etc. MF digital is still limited by the relatively small size of the sensor.
    A 6x7 camera or better still a 6x8 camera will give you a look that digital cannot. What is also interesting is that due to the whole move to digital
    you can get absolutely amazing lenses that used to cost $ 5,000 (and would cost more today) for $200-400.

    I totally favor 35mm DSLR plus 6x8 film combination compared to MF digital.

    You could shoot some very dynamic stuff with say the Canon 1D X and then shoot some more quiet and moody images with film.
    portra 160 NC is simply beautiful on large MF.

    Take a look at this ladies work. She shoots a combination of digital 35mm DSLR and various film formats.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/laurenr...in/photostream

    And look at these guys work... all film:
    http://www.thebrotherswright.com/bwrightphoto/

    Best of all you can take a stab at large medium format film for a small investment and if it's not for you sell it all for what you paid for it ... or more if your good at listing on ebay.
    Last edited by FredBGG; 28th January 2012 at 18:13.

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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Although I agree with the general point of Fred's comments, one major caveat with film is: make sure you have access to a consistently good lab. They are a dying breed.

    I've watched small, good labs and large, poor labs go out of business these last few years. Now the remaining large, good labs are slowly turning into small, poor labs. If this is not the case in your local area, then great.

    I've tried to support my favorite lab(s) over the years but as their QC dropped, I just couldn't justify the risk and cost of continuing to shoot film, even for personal stuff. Unfortunately, it was a vicious cycle: as processing and scanning quality dropped, so did the amount of film I shot. (Of course, digital may have had a part to play in all this too. )

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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Have to admit, looking at your canon stuff, I'm not sure exactly what is missing. FF dslrs's I find to be far kinder to non models without pro makeup and lighting to be honest. The depth and shadows of MF may be incredible but they ain't that kind to your average John/Jane.

    P.S. this is an opinion advanced by my wife, as a photographer I of couse ooh and aah at all the depth, detail and 'alive' shadows that I can get but as as an average onlooker, her opinion is far more relevant to the real world outside of pro models, makeup and endlessly controlled light (I'm a wedding shooter).
    I am not a painter, nor an artist. Therefore I can see straight, and that may be my undoing. - Alfred Stieglitz

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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Even though its only your first outing with MFD, after looking again at your (excellent) Canon images as a comparison IMO the Canon files are more flattering to your style of shooting and more flattering to your subject. The way the Canon lenses seem to over exaggerate the transition from sharp subject and out of focus areas of the image is similar to a Gaussian Blur in Photoshop. The MFD lens has a more traditional sharpness fall off that while giving the image more dimension, looses some of that dreamy feel of your original images. I'm sure that look is a big reason why people like your style of shooting and book your to shoot their portrait/wedding.

  36. #36
    Senior Member David Schneider's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    I disagree with Ben. I have found retouching with or without make up on a subject is easier with mf. My experience is more info in a file gives me more flexibility in retouching and more options; easier and faster and better, more realistic results if doing either minimal retouching for a more "natural" look or extensive retouching where there's heavy retouching. My world is a lot of high school seniors in a highly diverse ethnic area so I'll have seniors come in with no make-up, heavy make-up, or pay to have make-up applied for the session by my retoucher/MUA.

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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Geez have we forgot its Dante's Inferno here. We do NOT let people out of here. LOL

    Bottom line you can't do faster than 1/250 with flash sync on a DSLR PERIOD. That's ends the argument right there for me at least the rest is gravy. I'm shooting a crap load of models lately even with sensor plus and I'm flying way faster than 1/250 for outdoor fill on a regular basis. Otherwise I would shoot my Sony and even though I like to give up my MF cam I can't seem to pull the trigger. So going tech cam and Sony is still a stretch because of the fast sync. Now go get a demo on the Phase stuff try a IQ 140 or IQ 160. Spend money keep the insane people alive here. Lol
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Super Duper
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by David Schneider View Post
    I disagree with Ben. I have found retouching with or without make up on a subject is easier with mf. My experience is more info in a file gives me more flexibility in retouching and more options; easier and faster and better, more realistic results if doing either minimal retouching for a more "natural" look or extensive retouching where there's heavy retouching. My world is a lot of high school seniors in a highly diverse ethnic area so I'll have seniors come in with no make-up, heavy make-up, or pay to have make-up applied for the session by my retoucher/MUA.
    I agree.

    My friend just swapped over to Hasselblad from Canon and his work became more natural looking immediately ... his opinion is the same as David's, much easier to work on.

    Marc

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    Member Mario's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    I can't stress how helpful everyone has been. Thank you all for providing such insight.

    I don't think anything is 'missing' from my Canon files... but you don't miss a 400hp twin turbo Audi until you've driven it for the past couple years.

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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by gazwas View Post
    Even though its only your first outing with MFD, after looking again at your (excellent) Canon images as a comparison IMO the Canon files are more flattering to your style of shooting and more flattering to your subject. The way the Canon lenses seem to over exaggerate the transition from sharp subject and out of focus areas of the image is similar to a Gaussian Blur in Photoshop. The MFD lens has a more traditional sharpness fall off that while giving the image more dimension, looses some of that dreamy feel of your original images. I'm sure that look is a big reason why people like your style of shooting and book your to shoot their portrait/wedding.

    Shooting with the HC 100/2.2 wide open gives that dreamy look. So does the 150N. The HC80 is like a 50mm ... too short, and is a 2.8 lens compared to a canon 85/1.2 ... the 100/2.2 is my choice for "standard" lens on the Hasselblad H camera and results look remarkably like the Leica 75/1.4 OOF areas.

    -Marc

  41. #41
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Mario,

    It's important to note, to achieve 1/1600 sync with the DF, you can only use the much higher end DB's. Also, i'm not sure you can isolate the focal plane shutter from the sequence in a DF camera. Consider a Hasselblad H1 or H2...they have the ability to shoot any H mount DB, and as FredBGG pointed out, film use among higher end wedding/portrait photographers is getting very popular...again.
    You can P/U an H1 or H2 kit and a 36x48 Phase One p25+ for about the price of a High end DSLR. You'll get the 12 stops of dynamic range and the benefits of a larger sensor. The initial high price of new MFDB's is insulting, but what it will be worth in several years is even more insulting - that should be part of the equation too.
    Last edited by johnnygoesdigital; 29th January 2012 at 16:28.

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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Guy Wrote---->>>"and Pentax i don't believe has any Leaf shutter lenses and is a focal plane system"<<<

    Although the Pentax 645D may not be up for consideration with regards to Mario's application for Medium Format Digital (MFD), I'll just note that Pentax does have two manual focus leaf shutter lenses for their 645 system....the LS 75mm f2.8 and LS 135mm f4 lenses. Each can work with the 645D body and sync up to 1/500. Just some info that may useful for those reading this thread and using the Pentax 645D body.

    Dave (D&A)

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    Administrator, Instructor Guy Mancuso's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    I think the P30 will do 1/800 but P40, P65 and all the IQ's will do 1/1600. Maybe Doug can confirm this. Btw a P40 used is only 10k or so maybe less
    Photography is all about experimentation and without it you will never learn art.

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    Senior Member David Schneider's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by fotografz View Post
    Shooting with the HC 100/2.2 wide open gives that dreamy look. So does the 150N. The HC80 is like a 50mm ... too short, and is a 2.8 lens compared to a canon 85/1.2 ... the 100/2.2 is my choice for "standard" lens on the Hasselblad H camera and results look remarkably like the Leica 75/1.4 OOF areas.

    -Marc
    I am amazed how versitile the HC100/2.2 is. It's my go to lens for groups, but am comfident using it for a portrait. Now if Hasselblad ever made a 100-200 zoom, I'd be so happy!

    On the retouching, I've lately been looking at my studio Canon images and wishing I had taken them with my Hasselblad. I look at my Hassie images, I don't wish I'd taken them with my Canon.

  45. #45
    Member Mario's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Shooting over the past 24-hours has been fun! I shot the Hassy yesterday and Canon today.

    I really do enjoy the intimacy that I get with my 35mm gear. I feel much better connected to my clients.



    The look of the MF is really captivating though. And the files are beyond words.



    This is going to be invigorating next couple weeks determining what I want and need out of a camera system for this year.

  46. #46
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by fotografz View Post
    Shooting with the HC 100/2.2 wide open gives that dreamy look. So does the 150N. The HC80 is like a 50mm ... too short, and is a 2.8 lens compared to a canon 85/1.2 ... the 100/2.2 is my choice for "standard" lens on the Hasselblad H camera and results look remarkably like the Leica 75/1.4 OOF areas.
    Unless I'm not trying hard enough, I have a Phase 150mm D on test at the moment which, without doubt is one hell of a fine lens but it doesn't produce that very, very soft gaussian blur type of OOF backgrounds that the fast Canon's do and I've never seen any other MF glass that does. Hence the popularity of the 50 and 85 f1.2 L lenses.

    That type of blur (I hate the work Bokeh) has no place in my type of work so I don't own any of that glass but I sure do appreciate pictures taken with it and appreciate its pretty hard to get it in any other way.

    Mario, I think your work is quite beautiful and intimate. If, for example you said you were after more detail in fabrics or after advise as yo just wanted to go MFD because you a gear head I'd say go for it any day of the week as the detail etc, etc is addictive. However, as a way of improving IQ with your current work its a tough call IMO and you may only just gain bigger files, more headaches and an empty bank account.

  47. #47
    Senior Member David Schneider's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by Mario View Post

    I really do enjoy the intimacy that I get with my 35mm gear. I feel much better connected to my clients.
    I feel a lot better connected using the waist level finder on the Hasselblad than sticking my face in back of my Canon (or my Hassie with eye level finder).

  48. #48
    Super Duper
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Warning - the following thoughts and comments are from a landscape photographers point of view...

    Film still has its merits however I feel the downsides of using film out-weight its uses. I've been around long enough to remember using film; I also remember the smells of the darkroom. I also remember loosing work due to packages gone missing. I remember loosing work because the lab royally screwed up.
    I don't miss film.

    Digital offers so much more for me. It allows me to see almost instantly that I either have what I want or need to reshoot. It allows me the ability to expand on my artistic talents to process the image the way I want - not what some lab thinks is okay. It also allows me more freedom to experiment in both the capture and post processing that film never allowed.

    Then there's the speed. I remember being on a shoot (both landscape and commercial) where I shot film. I had to wait sometimes days to see what the lab brought me. I then had to either scan them into a digital file (why not just shoot digital I thought) before printing or ordering prints. Either way I had to tack on several days if not several weeks before seeing the first print.

    Not so with digital. Take my last shoot. I spent 60-days in the Jackson Hole area. Every night I'd load the images onto my computer checking for the ones I want and checking to ensure I didn't screw anything up. I also did a little post right then and there while the image of the are was fresh in my mind. I sold 7-images before leaving Jackson off the computer! I got an order to display 8-additional images - off the computer. Only with digital. I've been home since mid December working on the images. I've processed the images. I've printed the images and stretched then all on canvas. I'm ready to return to Jackson for the show next month and have several weeks to now sit back and relax. I've also sold more images since returning home printing and refilling empty wall space in our gallery. All because I choose to shoot digital.

    Bottom line is that if you are in a fast paced environment then digital is probably the right choice. If you have your own lab and all that goes with it then film might be okay. Most clients whether they're commercial or collectors don't give a rats arse who use what to shoot. They want quality at an affordable price and in a timeframe that suits their purpose.

    Just my 2 worth so take it at face value.

    Side not to Mario - welcome to the forum and medium format. While I don't do enough people to even make me understand the ins and outs of that type photography I do know enough that what I see as examples (no matter the camera) is outstanding.

    Don
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  49. #49
    Member Mario's Avatar
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    Quote Originally Posted by David Schneider View Post
    I feel a lot better connected using the waist level finder on the Hasselblad than sticking my face in back of my Canon (or my Hassie with eye level finder).
    I can definitely see that. I'll make sure to snag a waist level at some point to experiment with.

  50. #50
    Shelby Lewis
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    Re: New Member Switching to MF (Intro and Samples)

    I still can't shoot portraits as consistently well with my MF gear as I could with my Sony a900.

    There, I said it.

    But... for me, the potential for the work to be better is why I shoot MF. Occasionally I get a file that's just mind-blowing and it's all worthwhile. I shoot far fewer files, and most of them are useable because I shoot more slowly and with greater care. I love coming home with c.60 total files and having 55 to choose from.

    I'm in school right now and every other kid on campus, regardless of major, has a DSLR or similar... it's so nice to not be in the majority. It truly does make a perceptive difference. As long as my work is still basically as good as it always has been, and sometimes even better, the switch will have been worth it.

    Clients won't see "better"... but I surely do.

    Lastly, it's so easy to get caught up in the idea that just because 1/800th (or 1/1600th) flash sync exists that it's needed... but let's face it Mario, you shoot great with the regular old canon flash x-sync. What might be compelling is the possibility of more versatility with regards to flash sync especially as it relates to balancing with ambient conditions. That's why I shoot a leaf shutter camera... that 1/400th sync is perfect for my work (broad shade on bright days with flash for fill).

    I guess what I'm saying is that I see little improvement "feel-wise" in your MF images, but I wouldn't expect to on a first outing... but I would hope that your decision would be based on the possibilities that the systems have to offer. If those possibilities are limiting then don't do it... if they are liberating, then go for it.

    All of that said... some of the best portraits I've ever taken of my kids have been with my aptus. I'm a happy camper.

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