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3 lenses for Technical camera and Phase One IQ 180

Landscapelover

Senior Subscriber Member
Dear friends,

I have been inspired by remarkable works of friends at GetDPI and it is about time for me to move up to the next level of photography and to maximize my IQ 180.
I only do landscape photography and use Phase One 28mm, Mamiya AF 35mm, Schneider 55mm LS, 80mm LS, 150mm LS, Mamiya 75-150mm, and 300mm. I've used 28mm and 55mm a lot.
I would like to get your expert opinions regarding 3 best lenses for a view camera and Phase One IQ 180. Your advices will be greatly appreciated as always. This is certainly the best place in the planet to get this information.

Thank you very much.
Pramote
 
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Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
This is tough as you can go several directions but if you want a 3 lens only kit than I would go like I did except I have a 35 but for a 180 you have to be careful. Costs are high here but Rodie 32, SK 60 TS and either 90 or 120. Or you can go 40 or 43 , 70 or 72 and 120. Those are mainly you best three lens kits for the 180. I can cheat and use a cheaper cost 35 XL on the IQ 160 . It's the wides that will get you and also how wide do you want to start. My advice pick the wide first as that will determine the 2nd and 3rd lens. I actually may break this pattern since I want wider and go Rodie 28, SK 60 and 120 big gaps here but I love very wides and very longs. Right now I have 35,60 and 120
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
If your wondering the SK 35 XL does not work well with the 180. The Rodie 32 is around 8k . For the widest lens with reasonable price the Rodie 40 is the widest for the 180 that is less than 5k.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
This can and usually comes down to budget determining your pain factor here. LOL

I know since the 28 will cost two arms and three legs not to mention a big freaking bat to my head to get one.
 

Landscapelover

Senior Subscriber Member
These are the comments I'd love to hear.
I would like to know which ones are the best. I can build up the system slowly, one at a time. I have the same problem as you do with my wife so I have to be very careful.
Is SK 35 XL useable or I should not consider at all?
Thank you so much Guy!
Pramote
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Not with the 180 . I even have to use a CF with mine just to get 10mm movement out of it. As far as the best , honestly between Rodenstock and Schneider you almost can't go wrong. Some would say Rodie is more detailed over the Schneiders but you would really have to prove it. Rodie's do have a little more movement in them than advertised because of the design they are usually more costly than the Schneiders but also some will say the SK have a nicer look to them or tonal range. I like the SK but certainly would not turn down a Rodie either. The big trick for 180 users is will it work on your sensor, here Rodie's in the wides have the advantage and work well 23,28 and 32 but be aware they are all around 8 k.
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
Good don't want folks having heart attacks our docs are not standing by. LOl

Funny we had 3 doctors on our workshop. Love having a damn team following me around. LOL
 

Landscapelover

Senior Subscriber Member
I probably need to start sell some of my geers.
I'd love to attend your workshop some days. Still very busy with work and kids.
Thanks,
Pramote
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
I came from 4x5, so I already knew which focals I "had to have" since I had been through every possible focal previously with the 4x5. There I had settled on a foursome. In order of use they were the 90 (maybe 50%), 150 (about 30%), then about tied between the 65 and 270 (around 10% each). The comparable focals for LF >> MF tech >> 35mm full-frame are *approximately*

90 = 40 = 26
150 = 70 = 45
65 = 28 = 19
270 = 120 = 80

I also liked the 55 in LF, but it was getting pretty wide, and the 47 in LF was extremely wide; know that 47 in LF = about the 23 in MF tech, which in turn = about 15mm in 35 terms. Hence where I am presently sitting with my tech kit is my first 2 mandatory focals were the 40 and the 70, and I am extremely happy with both of them. The next addition was the 120, but only because I wanted that focal for the tech cam so I would not have to drag my DF body in the field with me. I also now have the 28 HR on order to round out my ideal single-camera foursome.

So for you already knowing you use your 28 and 55 a lot, I think you just need to decide 1) do you want to use your DSLR body or another camera for longer shots, and 2) if you'd prefer the tech replacement for your 55 a little wider (40HR or 43SK or the 50HR) or a little tighter (60SK), then decide how much longer than that one or wider than the 28 you want to go for your 3rd option.

Note that for me I chose the Rodenstock HR series for my 28, 40 and 70, but have shot with the similar 43 and 72 Schneiders -- basically all of the CURRENT series of tech lenses are stellar, the older generations you need to be careful. My 120 is the SK and it is excellent too.

120 and long tech lens note: 120 (or 135, 150, 180, 210) short barrel lenses have a rear extension "box" to allow for infinity focus on tech cams -- this makes the package less compact combined and slower to mount and unmount. Some of the manufacturers offer long barrel in the long lenses that add that length like a permanently attached extension tube -- this makes them less portable and efficient to pack and carry in your bag. In short, just recognize that using lenses longer than 90 on tech cams gets a little more finicky and slower to operate.
 

dougpeterson

Workshop Member
To me the big question is whether you will be taking this into the field by itself or alongside a camera with long lenses (e.g DF with 75-150 or dSLR with 70-200).

Tech Cam Kit for Use Alongside Long Lens Camera
23HR
40HR TS
60XL TS

Stand Alone Tech Cam Kit
32HR TS
60XL TS
120XL TS

Doug Peterson (e-mail Me)
__________________

Head of Technical Services, Capture Integration
Phase One Partner of the Year
Mamiya Leaf, Leica, Arca Swiss, Cambo, Profoto, LaCie, Canon, TTI, Broncolor & More

National: 877.217.9870 | Cell: 740.707.2183
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Buy Capture One 6 at 10% off
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
If I had the IQ180 I would go Rodies 32 and 50 for wides. Love the fact that they are f4, do not need centrefilter and sharp wide open. Allows for good amount of movements even with the big sensor and still high resolution at the edges.
The Rodies are bigger and heavier and more expensive. But the more important downsides imho are distortion (although correctable) and something very seldom talked about, they are more prone to CA which is vertially none existant with the Schneiders. But all together I would still go HR32 & H50 with an IQ180.
 

Jack

Sr. Administrator
Staff member
I have not seen *ANY* CA with my 40 or 70 HR in front of my IQ 180 to date, though they do seem to be slightly more flare prone than the comparable SK's.

One issue I had with the 43 Schneider is enough smaller than the 40 Rodie that my fat fingers had a much tougher time reaching the lens controls -- FWIW...
 

GrahamWelland

Subscriber & Workshop Member
I find that I can reach *ALL* of the controls on my SK & Rodie lenses with my fingers - most often all at the same time! :D

After a while you get used to being able to work by feel from the back of the camera with either, although I would agree with Jack that the Rodies do have a slight advantage being bigger in that there can be more finger room. Certainly true with my 90 HR-W vs SK 35 or 47 XL. The downside of course IS that they are bigger!
 

danlindberg

Well-known member
Jack, I am very happy to read that you have not seen any CA in yours! I have seen several examples (same session)with a HR32 shooting in the woods and CA appearing around leaves with bright sky behind. Also in theory the lensdesign "should" be worse off compared to Schneiders in this regard, but it is fantastic if this is a non issue!

I should ad that I do not know the back used with the CA infected images I saw! If that matters....
 

rga

Member
I have a 3 lens kit and I only shoot landscapes with it. I use the Alpa system.
My lenses are the APO Digitar 35XL, APO Digitar 80mm SB, and APO Digitar 150 SB.
I have the tilt shift adapter, so that is why I have the SB (short barrel) lenses.
I do not shoot the P180, but the P45+. I have no CA issues with the P45+. Not sure if the shifting with the 35mm and Alpa would help with that when you stitch. I also ALWAYS do an LCC shot for each venue, shift and f-stop.
Good luck!
Bob
Dear friends,

I have been inspired by remarkable works of friends at GetDPI and it is about time for me to move up to the next level of photography and to maximize my IQ 180.
I only do landscape photography and use Phase One 28mm, Schneider 55mm LS, 80mm LS, 150mm LS, Mamiya 75-150mm, and 300mm. I've used 28mm and 55mm a lot.
I would like to get your expert opinions regarding 3 best lenses for a view camera and Phase One IQ 180. Your advices will be greatly appreciated as always. This is certainly the best place in the planet to get this information.

Thank you very much.
Pramote
 

Landscapelover

Senior Subscriber Member
Thank you very much friends for your invaluable advices. These are information I cannot get anywhere else besides the GetDPi community.
I know Jack use RM3D which have built-in tilt and shift. Do the lenses in the focal length like 23, 28, 32,, 35, 40, 43 mm need TS if the camera is Cambo?
I truly appreciate your comments.
Pramote
 

Guy Mancuso

Administrator, Instructor
These are the comments I'd love to hear.
I would like to know which ones are the best. I can build up the system slowly, one at a time. I have the same problem as you do with my wife so I have to be very careful.
Is SK 35 XL useable or I should not consider at all?
Thank you so much Guy!
Pramote
Thank you very much friends for your invaluable advices. These are information I cannot get anywhere else besides the GetDPi community.
I know Jack use RM3D which have built-in tilt and shift. Do the lenses in the focal length like 23, 28, 32,, 35, 40, 43 mm need TS if the camera is Cambo?
I truly appreciate your comments.
Pramote
No TS and Doug correct me for the Cambo. No 23,28,35. Honestly I focused the 28 at 6ft and got infinity at F11. I adviced folks not until you get to the 40 do you really need it. At least that is my thinking. But I believe the 32 does but I have not tried it in TS. But I did not need it when I tested it. Ed Cooley may have better advice on the 32 since he has been shooting it for awhile.
 
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