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New Arca-Swiss Products

lance_schad

Workshop Member
Here is some information on two new ARCA SWISS accessories for the R-Series:

The ARCA SWISS RotaMount is a brand new rotating back designed for use with the ARCA SWISS R-Series (digital or film back) as well as with F and M Line view cameras.

The new RotaMount back allows you to switch seamlessly from landscape to portrait format in just a few seconds. This safe and secure system guarantees total flexibility and precision.
RotaMount:$510
*
The unparalleled ARCA SWISS VariFinder R-series variable focal length optical viewfinder has now been further enhanced with the addition of masks that can be shifted independently on both X and Y axes. The viewer can also be used in both landscape and portrait modes as there are feet for mounting in either position.
The viewerʼs bright and crisp display transmits light through small holes in the viewer mask to show the applied movements for transfer to the camera back.
A superb viewfinder for professionals.
VariFind: $1250

Lance (email me)
 

LonnaTucker

Member
A rotating back was sorely needed on the beach this past weekend! (wind, salt spray and fine sand and dust wreaking havoc with equipment and finding it's way into every crevice of my gear) Anyway, looking forward to putting it to use very much!

There is a larger photo posted on Rod's site:
ARCA SWISS RotaMount, a brand new rotating back
 
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yaya

Active member
Very handy if your back doesn't have a rotating sensor!
Been using the varifinder for 1.5 years now and I agree it's probably the best out there
 

m21apsh

Member
i'm not a Arca R user yet.

by using RotaMount, you will change Flange focal distant for infinity focusing.
how does this work out? Infinity focusing for each lens will need to readjust?

best

Jeff
 

RodK

Active member
The compensation for the RotaMount is achieved by removing the 'Rotaslide' ring.(Same as for 'Rotaslide use)
All else will remain the same.
Thanks,
Rod
 

Paul2660

Well-known member
The gap created by the Rotamount should be the same as the gap created by the Rotaslide adatper. Most lenses will ship with a series of rings (most times 2) and you will have to remove the 2nd outer ring, which will be labled "rotaslide". Since by using the rotaslide you move the back away from the Mamiya (or any other company) plate, you take off the outer ring. By taking off that ring, you should be back to where you have infinity focus.

Only lenses that I know of that only have one ring are the older Schneider 24mm and the Schneider 35mm. So mounting them will be a bit tricky since they will no longer have any rings and will fit pretty flush to the focus ring. It's a bit hard to for me to grab the 35mm Schneider with only the (1) ring.

It's always been backwards to me, i.e the ring labled rotaslide should only be installed if you are using the rotaslide. However you leave that ring on unless you use the rotaslide.

Paul
 

RodK

Active member
Paul,
That is why we marked the ring--- Rotaslide:Remove
Anyway, I understand your thought.
Rod
 

Smoothjazz

Active member
In discussing the Arca focusing, I had a quick question. I just started using a distaance rangefinder and the focus scales for accurate focusing. For my Arca mounted Rodenstock lenses, each comes with a focus drum and also a focus card. Each indicates what settings and color to focus the RM3di focus ring. The question is that the numbers on the drum do not agree with the card. Is there a reason why the numbers on the drum would be different than the accompanying card?
In most cases there is a difference of about 10-15 numerically, which I would consider a fair difference in focusing.
 

gazwas

Active member
In discussing the Arca focusing, I had a quick question. I just started using a distance rangefinder and the focus scales for accurate focusing. For my Arca mounted Rodenstock lenses, each comes with a focus drum and also a focus card. Each indicates what settings and colour to focus the RM3di focus ring. The question is that the numbers on the drum do not agree with the card. Is there a reason why the numbers on the drum would be different than the accompanying card?
In most cases there is a difference of about 10-15 numerically, which I would consider a fair difference in focusing.
The card is exact focus distance to subject to be set on the lens when wanting a critical point of focus. The drum is hyperfocal distance that offers the best distance setting to obtain the best front to back sharpness between two points eg. 12m - ∞
 

Steve Hendrix

Well-known member
In discussing the Arca focusing, I had a quick question. I just started using a distaance rangefinder and the focus scales for accurate focusing. For my Arca mounted Rodenstock lenses, each comes with a focus drum and also a focus card. Each indicates what settings and color to focus the RM3di focus ring. The question is that the numbers on the drum do not agree with the card. Is there a reason why the numbers on the drum would be different than the accompanying card?
In most cases there is a difference of about 10-15 numerically, which I would consider a fair difference in focusing.

I see the tubes as more of a cheat sheet/quick guide to some stepped distances (0.5m, 1.3m, 1.7m, 3.0m, 8.0m, and infinity). From these distances, you could make some tweaks if, say, your finder measured 7.5m. But the tube gets you pretty quickly to one of those spots. They're designed to be more near focus, and, depending on the lens, the distance selected, and the aperture used, may also correspond to a true hyperfocal setting.

The included lens-specific chart is much more specific, and, as you can see, displays many more steps. As such, it is more useful than the tubes, but perhaps not as handy, since the tubes fit right into the VariFind Viewfinder (although many enterprising individuals have their own custom solutions for chart viewing...)

Keep in mind that focal lengths of lenses are not exactly what they indicate, so as with any technical camera setup, it is vital that you do your homework and test your own lens against the chart to see if your findings match the specifications. In a case where there is a variance, it is easy to add an "offset" to the chart indicator, such as +1, or -2 (typically, it is not off by more than 1 or 2 ticks). That lens then becomes a position 7.8 (as the chart might indicate) +2, so you would turn the focus ring to 8.0. The offset should be fairly consistent, though you may find a setting may vary slightly when calculating the offset at a near focus point vs a far focus point, and also at a wide open aperture vs a stopped down aperture. This will vary, depending on the lens.

Know your lens.


Steve Hendrix
 
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