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Max shots/day for an IQ180/Phase AF?
- Thread starter gerald.d
- Start date
wentbackward
Member
IQ no problem, wouldn't trust the a DF shutter to last long.
One thing to consider, make sure you keep your shutter speed over 1 second or you will be writing taking 2x as long since your back will write a dark frame for anything @ 1 second or longer. May not be an issue, but will create a bit of a gap in the series due to extra time taken for the dark frame.
paul
paul
Last edited:
The only issue I can see from the perspective of the back is keeping it powered. The battery charges from the FW bus but different computers deliver different amounts of power. The question would be whether or not the charging rate keeps up with battery depletion.
I would also want to have a spare body sitting around.
Good luck
I would also want to have a spare body sitting around.
Good luck
GrahamWelland
Subscriber & Workshop Member
I agree. IQ seems bulletproof in my experience. The DF not quite so. I've had 3 Mamiya AF/AFD shutter failures over the years including one in the DF.
dougpeterson
Workshop Member
The body shutter will be the only concern, so I'd suggest having a second body (doesn't have to be a DF unless you need LS lenses) if you plan on doing many days like this and work into your budget a shutter replacement or two. You can also consider running this project using a view camera or technical body with an electronic shutter. Those are rated for 1 million captures and also have no mirror.
The IQ back will have no problem with this (except as someone mentioned if you want to shoot longish exposures, which require the same time to read-out as to capture). Make sure the laptop you are shooting to has more than enough free HD space (duh), and set the back's power-management setting to "fast" charging (draws more FW power, but if your laptop is on AC then it won't matter) to make sure that it is charging faster than it is depleting.
Also, consider using IIQ-S which will result in raw files about half as large as normal raw files. A quick comparison on your end will tell you if you are happy with the quality of IIQ-S, which is very slightly lossy compared to IIQ-L.
You should also follow the normal time-lapse convention of either using a lens with a mechanically set aperture (e.g. a Hassy 200 or 500 series lens with the appropriate adapter) or using a standard electronic lens and "tricking" the lens into remaining stopped down full time by ejecting the body battery while holding the DOF preview button. This will eliminate "aperture flicker".
Naturally you'll want to use an AC adapter for the body. That's cheap/easy from your local Phase/Mamiya-Leaf dealer.
My senior thesis was on time-lapse from still images; it's a wonderfully enjoyable, though EXTREMELY time intensive technique.
The IQ back will have no problem with this (except as someone mentioned if you want to shoot longish exposures, which require the same time to read-out as to capture). Make sure the laptop you are shooting to has more than enough free HD space (duh), and set the back's power-management setting to "fast" charging (draws more FW power, but if your laptop is on AC then it won't matter) to make sure that it is charging faster than it is depleting.
Also, consider using IIQ-S which will result in raw files about half as large as normal raw files. A quick comparison on your end will tell you if you are happy with the quality of IIQ-S, which is very slightly lossy compared to IIQ-L.
You should also follow the normal time-lapse convention of either using a lens with a mechanically set aperture (e.g. a Hassy 200 or 500 series lens with the appropriate adapter) or using a standard electronic lens and "tricking" the lens into remaining stopped down full time by ejecting the body battery while holding the DOF preview button. This will eliminate "aperture flicker".
Naturally you'll want to use an AC adapter for the body. That's cheap/easy from your local Phase/Mamiya-Leaf dealer.
My senior thesis was on time-lapse from still images; it's a wonderfully enjoyable, though EXTREMELY time intensive technique.
Thanks all for the helpful comments.
Body-wise, I currently have an AF with an HCam on the way. I need to check with Stefan about whether or not the HCam would be up for this kind of punishment. Obviously one major advantage with the HCam is that it has no mirror to worry about.
I've got two things that I want to try out. One would just be a "normal" timelapse with each frame just a single 80MP image, the other idea is to mount the camera onto a Seitz VR Drive and shoot full 360 degree spherical panos (I'd definitely be looking to use the HCam in this instance with either the Canon 8-15, 17 TS-E or 24 TS-E - lens choice would dependent on how big I wanted the resulting spherical pano to be). I did a test 360 last week with the Mamiya 35mm on the AF. Came out at just over a gigapixel from 29 shots in one minute. It's tempting to try to run off a thousand of those in sequence for a 1 terapixel timelapse, but even I'm not that crazy...
Yet
Kind regards,
Gerald.
Body-wise, I currently have an AF with an HCam on the way. I need to check with Stefan about whether or not the HCam would be up for this kind of punishment. Obviously one major advantage with the HCam is that it has no mirror to worry about.
I've got two things that I want to try out. One would just be a "normal" timelapse with each frame just a single 80MP image, the other idea is to mount the camera onto a Seitz VR Drive and shoot full 360 degree spherical panos (I'd definitely be looking to use the HCam in this instance with either the Canon 8-15, 17 TS-E or 24 TS-E - lens choice would dependent on how big I wanted the resulting spherical pano to be). I did a test 360 last week with the Mamiya 35mm on the AF. Came out at just over a gigapixel from 29 shots in one minute. It's tempting to try to run off a thousand of those in sequence for a 1 terapixel timelapse, but even I'm not that crazy...
Yet
Kind regards,
Gerald.
S
SCHWARZZEIT
Guest
Gerald,
a few thoughts to consider on your timelapse project:
10000 frames at 24 fps add to an almost 7 minute sequence. If it is just one static setup it might turn out pretty boring. Including camera movements might help to make it more interesting. But keeping the viewer's attention for this long requires some amazing event to happen during that time at the right speed that makes timelapse the right device to tell that story.
How do you plan to play the footage?
AFAIK the most advanced commercial digital projectors are limited to about 4k x 2k resolution. I think currently the only way to display the level of detail of these 80 MP files in fluent motion would be to CRT the frames on 70mm/15perf (IMAX) film and show the film in a 70/15 capable IMAX theater.
-Dominique
a few thoughts to consider on your timelapse project:
10000 frames at 24 fps add to an almost 7 minute sequence. If it is just one static setup it might turn out pretty boring. Including camera movements might help to make it more interesting. But keeping the viewer's attention for this long requires some amazing event to happen during that time at the right speed that makes timelapse the right device to tell that story.
How do you plan to play the footage?
AFAIK the most advanced commercial digital projectors are limited to about 4k x 2k resolution. I think currently the only way to display the level of detail of these 80 MP files in fluent motion would be to CRT the frames on 70mm/15perf (IMAX) film and show the film in a 70/15 capable IMAX theater.
-Dominique
Hi Dominique -
You are right of course that a set-up like that would be rather boring.
I'm not planning on using 10,000 static frames for a timelapse. I'd be stitching spherical panos in the region of 200-500MP, and then creating the timelapse from those.
Viewing wise, I can't really go into much detail, but these would be presented in a rather novel way.
Kind regards,
Gerald.
You are right of course that a set-up like that would be rather boring.
I'm not planning on using 10,000 static frames for a timelapse. I'd be stitching spherical panos in the region of 200-500MP, and then creating the timelapse from those.
Viewing wise, I can't really go into much detail, but these would be presented in a rather novel way.
Kind regards,
Gerald.
Gerald,
One notable consideration that many others may have overlooked is the fact that you're in Dubai. I mention this for what I consider to be obvious reasons -- extreme heat. It's nothing to see temperatures creep beyond 120F in the area. Paired with the fact that the IQ180 is basically a perfect blackbody, I can see internal temperatures of the DB soaring to the limit of the intended tolerances if operated for an extended period both in the sun, and on a hot day. The silicon itself really is only good for 80-90c, maybe slightly beyond that, but not much. With the heat of the day/direct sunlight, it stands to reason you could venture very close to this number.
If you have an IR thermometer, it would be rather interesting to see what the temperature is on various parts of the back after a few hours of this treatment -- particularly on/around the sensor itself.
One notable consideration that many others may have overlooked is the fact that you're in Dubai. I mention this for what I consider to be obvious reasons -- extreme heat. It's nothing to see temperatures creep beyond 120F in the area. Paired with the fact that the IQ180 is basically a perfect blackbody, I can see internal temperatures of the DB soaring to the limit of the intended tolerances if operated for an extended period both in the sun, and on a hot day. The silicon itself really is only good for 80-90c, maybe slightly beyond that, but not much. With the heat of the day/direct sunlight, it stands to reason you could venture very close to this number.
If you have an IR thermometer, it would be rather interesting to see what the temperature is on various parts of the back after a few hours of this treatment -- particularly on/around the sensor itself.