Help re tech camera lenses please

[Guy Mancuso]

ROTFLMAO welcome to Dante's inferno. No one escapes.

The 32 is a excellent lens no question. 32, 60 and 120 is also a nice setup.

I think and most of us would agree is pick your wide first and build around that. But some folks and I have seen a lot of this is go with a 40,70 and 120. You have to find the wide lens first though IMHO as I think that is the key to build one. Starting with a 40 actually can be a problem figuring out which wider after that, the 32 is too close obviously.

No question it's not easy and there really is no right or wrong and really depends on your style.

Also hate to even muddy the waters here but a 32mm stitched can be like a 28mm or wider. Of course that is stitched and if something is moving than that's out.

 

[Guy Mancuso]

If your where looking for a easy answer well as you can how long this thread is as a example that easy answers are hard to come by. Lol

Worse yet you will kill your credit card and will blow up in smoke along the way.

 

[danlindberg]

My list for an 80mp back would be:

A one lens setup: sk60
A two lens setup: hr32 + sk60
A three lens setup: hr32 + sk60 + sk120
A four lens setup: hr23 + hr32 + sk60 + sk120

 

[Guy Mancuso]

A four lens setup: hr23 + hr32 + sk60 + sk120

This one you need a very special ski mask for the banker. LOL

But hard to beat if you have the money to do it.

 

[GrahamWelland]

I don't have the coin required for all of the prime Rodies but I have to say that for me, personally, with an IQ160 -> IQ260 today, the following works well:

23HR, 35XL, 47XL, 90HR, 150XL (I have a 75XL too which competes with the 90HR for bag space tbh).

If I suddenly hit the lottery, then I would undoubtedly swap them all out for:

23HR, 32HR, 50HR, 90HR and 150XL

if only for the future proofing with newer backs.

It's a pit, a deep deep dark money pit. The best option is to find a secure alternative source of income and then play here

 

[alajuela]

Hi

I am not of the same level as the other respondents.

I have the
28mm HR
40mm HR
70mm HR
120mm SK

I think this is a very complete kit.

Also if you have DF body - it should be noted that as you start to go long (like the 150mm) - The image quality on the DF is very very very close, of course you will have no movements on the DF and you will have to carry a second "body".

Phil

 

[MILESF]

My list for an 80mp back would be:

A one lens setup: sk60
A two lens setup: hr32 + sk60
A three lens setup: hr32 + sk60 + sk120
A four lens setup: hr23 + hr32 + sk60 + sk120

Dan, that was exactly the order of my thought process when I jumped into the inferno earlier this year. Very happy with it too.

The 120mm lens, well wrapped can be stored inside the spacer and the combo is very light in weight. The only drawback to me is that to mount it on the camera you have to remove the front and back covers or at least take the back off to make room for the spacer in addition to changing the lens on the front. On a windy, dusty day in the field a spotty sensor is even more likely than usual.

 

[gerald.d]

Fascinating discussion, but I do think people are missing a fundamental point:

"Now, for the tech cam, I am pretty much convinced that my line-up should start with the 32mm HR."

I'm reading that as that's his widest lens requirement.

Of course, if we want to try to convince miska that he should be thinking about a 28 or 23, then that's the next level down into the inferno

 

[miska]

Thanks for all the good suggestions!

Fortunately for my finances, I think 23mm is really too wide for me at this point. And I am not even sure that 23mm and 32mm are not "compatible" in a lens line-up, because the jump between 23 and 32 seems quite large.
Maybe if I was 100% sure I needed the 23mm, I would then go 23mm -> 40mm -> [...], but right now, I feel that 32mm is the widest I need - for the moment. Never say never though

 

[kdphotography]

Sometimes the best remedy here is to actually try those lenses out on a tech camera.

I can feel the rumblings of another Pigs in a, uh, *oops*, I mean Capture Integration in Carmel....

https://www.facebook.com/pages/CI-in-Carmel/532920573414788

 

[gerald.d]

Thanks for all the good suggestions!

Fortunately for my finances, I think 23mm is really too wide for me at this point. And I am not even sure that 23mm and 32mm are not "compatible" in a lens line-up, because the jump between 23 and 32 seems quite large.
Maybe if I was 100% sure I needed the 23mm, I would then go 23mm -> 40mm -> [...], but right now, I feel that 32mm is the widest I need - for the moment. Never say never though

I think I'm right in stating that the problem with every option under the 32HR is that they won't meet one, or both of, your "easy" to use from a workflow point of view, and image circle criteria on an IQ280.

 

[GrahamWelland]

I can't speak to the 28HR but I would agree that the 23HR is a fussy lens to work with if only because of it's propensity to centre hot spots in any kind of flare conditions.

 

[Geoff]

Alternate look, for budget and small size:

35XL, 55 Apo Sironar (although the 60 Schneider would be next in line), Rodie 90 HRW (now discontinued, but a fine lens), and a 150. A bit more spacing, a bit less current and a bunch less cost. Only up to the 60 mp back, tho.

 

[jagsiva]

Bill,

Feel free if you are in London, ON anytime to drop by. You can hands-on demo 23/32/40HR and 60/120XL along with the Arca and all the bits that go with it. Still waiting for the 90HR-SW, but could be a while, apparently there was a recall on that lens by Rodenstock.

I think it is more than just focal length. Each of these lenses has their quirks and charms. As an all-rounder, I think the 40HR or 60XL are very good. The 32HR is massive, and the 23HR highly specialized. The new 120SK is also very good, but again a specialized FL. I don't have the 43XL, but have played with it. It is also a very nice lens and much smaller than the Rodie, although I prefer the Rodie for its size, especially when when using gloves.

Gazwas also has a Arca/43XL for sale in the B&S which would be great kit.

 

[Guy Mancuso]

I can't speak to the 28HR but I would agree that the 23HR is a fussy lens to work with if only because of it's propensity to centre hot spots in any kind of flare conditions.

I had the 28 HR on my IQ 160. No issues with flare and about 7mm worth of movement and also a laser. I compromised between the 23 and 32 as the 28 is pretty dang wide and smaller , lighter than the 32 and not as finicky as the 23. The 32mm makes me really nervous on the copal shutter, if mishandled a little there are reports of problems with the copal shutter. Great lens though but one reason I went 28 and I do like the focal better.

 

[miska]

Ok, imagine I drop my "requirement" to future proof my lenses , and go with a line-up that works on an IQ160, but doesn't on an IQ180 (basically all wide Schneiders).

Do I still lose something on the IQ160 ? I mean maybe the lenses correct well with LCC on an IQ160, but still require an LCC. Whereas an IQ180-compatible lens would allow me to work without LCCs on an IQ160. That would be a plus from the workflow point of view.

I just assume that the color casts already exist on an IQ160, and they become uncorrectable on an IQ180. And that the color cast problem is "solved" (if you work without movements) with a Rodenstock retrofocus design, hence making the lens IQ180 compatible, and possibly LCC free on an IQ160.

Is this true, or am I pretty much going to have to do an LCC anyway, and on an IQ160, the Rodenstocks do not bring that much ?

Thanks so much for your input !

 

[stngoldberg]

LCC only takes a few seconds, I find it mandatory on all of my lenses regardless of having a center filter or not. I even do an LCC on my 210mm Schneider mounted on my Arca R3MDI. I use a Hasselblad H4D50 back.
Stanley

 

[Steve C]

I just finished an Alpa demo of the Rodi 28mm on an IQ180 and found that it was exceptional across the whole field. Almost as good as the Rodi 40mm that I own. In Landscape orientation, I was able to shift the lens +/- 8mm before hard vignetting began in the corners. For smaller displacements, color shifts and falloff were easily neutralized with an LCC. I certainly wouldn't rule it out, although I just about passed out when told the price!

 

[GrahamWelland]

If you stick at 60mp then the schneider a with the exception of the 24XL all become viable and great cheaper options. The rodies definitely have some advantages as you go larger MP and they are even wickedly sharper than the merely wickedly sharp schneiders. You pay for with size, weight and cost though.

 

[Don Libby]

OMG how have I not seen this post!

First there's a lot of good information/suggestions posted here. The very best is from Ed where he suggests don't buy anything before a demo in your hands. I might add the word "full" demo. By that I suggest you get a chance to really try the complete kit out, kick the tires do a road test and see if its for you. Will it provide you with everything you want/need/demand it to do. Can you get adequate shifts with the lens, also look at the rise/fall of both the body and lens.

I don't have a 180 however I've used a P45+, P65 and now a IQ160 on the same camera for many years. I've experienced the 35, 72 and 120 all Schneider's and used them with great success and only recently replaced the 35 with a Rodi 40 T/S and like it a lot.

Regarding the 120... I've used a Schneider short barrel 120 for many many years and while it can be a PIA to put on (remove the back then insert the spacer and replace the back) it has a huge image circle which is large enough for me to shift almost to the stops and stil get a great file.

I firmly believe that lens choice in landscape is a very personal thing. As stated above I've been using lenses from 35 to 120 with great success. The lens I decide on is based on the particular location and what I'm seeing/feeling at the time so I have a hard time suggesting a particular focal length to use. If I were beginning with a one lens wonder then I'd suggest 40 to begin with then work your way up towards either 120 or 150. You can of course always go wider however again based on my own person experience/preference I use nothing wider than a 40 (which when used to shift can be much wider).

Come down to Carmel when Ken, Dave G. and I are there doing a get-together and there shouldn't be a lens left out of the bunch to try.

Good luck and welcome to the wonderful world of tech cameras....

Don