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Help with RZ67 Pro IID + DM22 back

Aryan Aqajani

New member
Oh, You love film? Say it 100 times or say it on every post :thumbs::ROTFL:

Well, i didn't shoot long exposure long long time ago, but when i did in the past it was only with digital [35mm and MF], never tried with film except with Holga 120WPC which needs long exposure or very slow shutter speed due to its aperture.

In fact i like to use RZ more than my another film bodies, but i am always feeling it is better to use Hasselblad 500 series and that square format for long exposure, it is really very difficult when someone get 2 6x7 and 1 6x6 and 1 6x9 and more and then to choose which one to shoot with.
Shooting film for long exposure!? :salute::ROTFL:

I see you point about shooting 6x6 film for long exposure! Many people believe square format is the way to go for LE however, 6x7 is still my favorite format, at least I am doing one more thing different than the rest! Breaking away from the pack!!! :toocool:
 

Professional

Active member
Shooting film for long exposure!? :salute::ROTFL:

I see you point about shooting 6x6 film for long exposure! Many people believe square format is the way to go for LE however, 6x7 is still my favorite format, at least I am doing one more thing different than the rest! Breaking away from the pack!!! :toocool:
I also prefer 6x7 over 6x6 anyday, in fact the only thing that i like most with RZ over my Hassy is that format 6x7, but handling body is totally winner with Hassy, and because it is mechanical so i never worry about battery drainage, but i still have issue with Hasselblad 501CM focusing that making me hate to use it over RZ.

In all cases, i don't care much which format to use or to shoot with whether it is LE or night or even people, i like to have that freedom of selection of gear to have.
 

johnnygoesdigital

New member
Aryan,

Got it! I shoot strictly film with an RZ ProII, so I'm a little uninformed with digital application. Personally, I don't like using T/N mode because of the possibility of movement when touching the barrel. I do use MU mode and then lock the cable for LE, and when my exposure is within 30 seconds or so, I unlock and hold for duration, not ideal but it works for me.

SergeiR, lighten up my friend, he was only commenting on my response. Go film!
 

MaxKißler

New member
Aryan,

have you tried shooting 30s exposures using the large format camera mode on your back? Maybe if you taped off the electronic contacts on the adapter plate and then simply use a wake up cable with the back it might work. I haven't tried this yet but please do so and tell us. ;)
 

Aryan Aqajani

New member
Aryan,

Got it! I shoot strictly film with an RZ ProII, so I'm a little uninformed with digital application. Personally, I don't like using T/N mode because of the possibility of movement when touching the barrel. I do use MU mode and then lock the cable for LE, and when my exposure is within 30 seconds or so, I unlock and hold for duration, not ideal but it works for me.

SergeiR, lighten up my friend, he was only commenting on my response. Go film!
I understand but to be honest, I had never had any problem with T/N mode so far so prefer to use that mode for any exposure more than 1 min!


Aryan,

have you tried shooting 30s exposures using the large format camera mode on your back? Maybe if you taped off the electronic contacts on the adapter plate and then simply use a wake up cable with the back it might work. I haven't tried this yet but please do so and tell us. ;)
That's a good idea! :) However, don't have a sync cable for my back! I'll try to do that when I get a chance to go to my local Phase One dealer here in Melbourne!
 

homeiss

New member
I set my RB67+Aptus 22 to "T" mode and it will capture up to 30 seconds no problem. Since I'm using an RB67 I have to set the back to Large Format mode and use the "wake up" cable. This might also work for you on the RZ, like Max suggests. You can get a 2.5 mono to PC sync cord on ebay for cheap. Give it a shot. :D
 

Aryan Aqajani

New member
I set my RB67+Aptus 22 to "T" mode and it will capture up to 30 seconds no problem. Since I'm using an RB67 I have to set the back to Large Format mode and use the "wake up" cable. This might also work for you on the RZ, like Max suggests. You can get a 2.5 mono to PC sync cord on ebay for cheap. Give it a shot. :D
Thank you :thumbup: Will give it a go for sure :)
 

Aryan Aqajani

New member
Hello again guys :)

Today, I just noticed a new issue with my RZ and DM22 back! When I looked at the exif, he shutter only goes up to 1/350s with all my lenses, 50mm, 110mm and 180mm! Is it normal?
 
Hi Aryan, I just posted on the other thread, I think the back determines the shutter speed via the sync rather than it being communicated, and even then I think it's a bit hit and miss. Definitely when you shoot a mirror up, it counts from when the mirror goes up not when the shutter opens (at least it does on my back!)
- Paul
 
Its normal. I'm assuming because its much easier to program, being the next half stop on the scale. Actual shutter speed should be 1/400.
 

Aryan Aqajani

New member
Hi Aryan, I just posted on the other thread, I think the back determines the shutter speed via the sync rather than it being communicated, and even then I think it's a bit hit and miss. Definitely when you shoot a mirror up, it counts from when the mirror goes up not when the shutter opens (at least it does on my back!)
- Paul
Paul, thank you for that :) I don't use a sync cable as mine is D version so it is just the back and HX701 adapter! Also, have never used MUP function :rolleyes:

Its normal. I'm assuming because its much easier to program, being the next half stop on the scale. Actual shutter speed should be 1/400.
So, you mean what I see in EXIF data is just some random number and not the actual shutter speed? Do you get 1/350s as well when you shoot with your setup at 1/400s?

By the way, saw your post on LuLa Strange RZ Pro II hotshoe issue

I tested it with both ambient light and strobes, no difference, always 1/350s :facesmack:
 
Theres two ways to use the RZ, using the sync cable or with the IID model via the electronic adapter plate. And using this plate you get accurate exif data, always. The exception is 1/400, which is recorded as 1/350. Why this is so I'm not sure, but if I were to guess it has to do with the fact that the RZ uses a half stop scale and 1/350 is the next step after 1/250. I'm assuming it would be a mess to program it as 1/400, as that fits under the third stop scale. In any case its only 1/6 of a stop difference, not a big deal. Using the RZ with a sync cable (and Leaf back, not sure about Phase) is a mess as it causes exposure problems at fast shutter speeds. This is partially detailed in the above linked thread.
 

yaya

Active member
Aryan I'm sorry I missed this thread and I'm checking if there's a known issue there but I suggest that you contact Craig Robinson at Ted's in Melbourne so that he can log a support case for you

BR

Yair
 

Aryan Aqajani

New member
Aryan I'm sorry I missed this thread and I'm checking if there's a known issue there but I suggest that you contact Craig Robinson at Ted's in Melbourne so that he can log a support case for you

BR

Yair
Thanks for the reply Yair :) So you are suggesting there is something wrong with the way shutter speed is registered in exif data? I must be 1/400s when I shoot at 1/400s? Or you meant the problem I had with shooting long exposure in T mode on RZ67 Pro IID? Sorry, a bit confused haha
 

Aryan Aqajani

New member
Theres two ways to use the RZ, using the sync cable or with the IID model via the electronic adapter plate. And using this plate you get accurate exif data, always. The exception is 1/400, which is recorded as 1/350. Why this is so I'm not sure, but if I were to guess it has to do with the fact that the RZ uses a half stop scale and 1/350 is the next step after 1/250. I'm assuming it would be a mess to program it as 1/400, as that fits under the third stop scale. In any case its only 1/6 of a stop difference, not a big deal. Using the RZ with a sync cable (and Leaf back, not sure about Phase) is a mess as it causes exposure problems at fast shutter speeds. This is partially detailed in the above linked thread.
If that is the case, it is all good then :D I am curious to know if other RZ users experience the same thing!?

Let see what Yair think regarding this issue! :confused:
 

yaya

Active member
OK guys the RZIId at 1/400s records 1/350s. It's a protocol issue not a speed issue so you're shooting at 1/400!

B mode works on the RZ-IId as long as the Leaf back has an updated communication board. If the serial number is lower than LI301xxx that means it is not 100% supported so you need to contact your local dealer and arrange for the update.

If the serial number of your back is higher than the above one and it still doesn't work in B mode then there could be something else there. Again contact your dealer for a follow up

T mode is not supported on the RZ-IId.

Hope this helps

Yair
 
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